DIY Guide, Rear air spring replacement

[Maverik259]

Mine is starting to sag again. I think I need to remove the air lines and cut them a bit. I think they're deformed now and it's causing them to slowly leak.

But what's weird is my compressor isn't filling them unless I do it manually in ISTA. FML.

[Mr.47]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Mine is starting to sag again. I think I need to remove the air lines and cut them a bit. I think they're deformed now and it's causing them to slowly leak.

But what's weird is my compressor isn't filling them unless I do it manually in ISTA. FML.

Your compressor might be timing out to prevent it from burning out, is there any errors in ista?

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Mr.47

Your compressor might be timing out to prevent it from burning out, is there any errors in ista?

It's a very slow leak though. Like three weeks to get uncomfortable. It's so slow i would expect the compressor to easily compensate and me not even know there was a leak. When it was leaking bad before to one side the compressor would at least fill every day when started.

And not really found how to detect errors in ISTA yet. I do run a check on the sensors with no issues that I've seen. And the compressor does fill them after I complete the sensor check. As it does find them low.

[barneyundfred]

I found info online, that the suspension air compressor times out because it is water logged. Therfor you dont inflate, not because of leaking bags. There is a simple fix, by emptying the old dessicant from the pump, and replace with fresh dessicant beads. Apparently a $12 fix. Anyone in Bimmerland follow this lead?

[barneyundfred]

Problem is, I can't locate the air compressor on my 2015 X5 7-seater. It's supposed to be under the spare tire. I don't have a spare tire, I have a third row, no panels to remove...

[Russmov]

Originally Posted by barneyundfred

Problem is, I can't locate the air compressor on my 2015 X5 7-seater. It's supposed to be under the spare tire. I don't have a spare tire, I have a third row, no panels to remove...

Check newTIS

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by barneyundfred

Problem is, I can't locate the air compressor on my 2015 X5 7-seater. It's supposed to be under the spare tire. I don't have a spare tire, I have a third row, no panels to remove...

The air compressor is under the passenger seat. Access from bottom of the car.

[Maverik259]

Also found in ISTA that I had a voltage issue with my driver side rear level sensor. So I bought a new one and fingers crossed it helps with the compressor not filling automatically

[edvukass]

Can someone point to the correct cable required to bleed air from air spring using ISTA-D? And where do you get ISTA-D from, amazon link would be helpfull, i’m from UK.

[CatalinP]

The cable is called Enet. Google it.

As for the software, you won't find it on amazon...

[JuanF30]

I have the same problem.
The driver side suspension is deflated if i start the car for a few minutes and shut or start the vehicule just to move to another parking lot for a minute, then the driver side is all deflated.
But if i use the vehicule like normal, it wont deflat.
What could be the problem?
Thanks for any replay and sorry if im not explaining it well

[CatalinP]

You need to replace the air bags, as they are leaking. And yes, replace both, it's just a matter of time before the other one starts leaking as well.

If you continue to drive like this, you'll burn the air compressor.

[JuanF30]

Originally Posted by CatalinP

You need to replace the air bags, as they are leaking. And yes, replace both, it's just a matter of time before the other one starts leaking as well.

If you continue to drive like this, you'll burn the air compressor.

Ok, thanks for your advice

[Bch06]

Originally Posted by Mr.47

Air suspension leaks are no fun my first encounter was back in January 2018, when my car would seldomly start to sag in the rear, especially in the left side, I ignored it at first...however as months passed it become more and more apparent and frequent and now both sides are sagging, there was even damage to the side wheel flairs. So it was time to resolve this issue for good. Its best to rectify this problem asap, as leaving it unresolved in the long run may cause the air pump to burnout and or cause premature wear on suspension parts.




The culprit a 70k miles 4 yrs old air bellow looks like never towed never lifted heavy things and riding on 20 in oem rims, (left) when its not stretched it looks normal but (right) when you begin compress the bellow and stretch it the walls problems begin to show multiple deep cracks on the rubber bellow, this is the reason why air leaks occurs.



***DISCLAIMER***THIS IS AN DIY COMMUNITY GUIDE I'M NOT A PROFESSIONAL AND WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURY/DEATH OR PROPERTY DAMAGE BY FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE, IF UNSURE SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE/MECHANIC, OTHERWISE PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK***DISCLAIMER***

Tools
Battery charger
ISTA-D
Pair of Air struts ( I got mine at Arnott $160~ +shipping/each)
10mm Wrench
17 socket
Various ratchet and breaker bar

1) USE SAFETY!!! ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS TO SUPPORT YOUR VEHICLE, ALSO USE A WHEEL CHOKE ON BOTH FRONT WHEELS, OR CAR WILL ROLL FORWARD WHEN LIFTING!!!!!

Lift up the vehicle you can use the rear axle as jacking point (#3), do not jack up with out something in between the axle and the jack pad (i use a block of wood to prevent marring on the diffrential)





2) After lifting and using appropriate support remove wheel, use 17mm socket, I use a torque multiplier makes things a breeze to remove those lug bolt.



3)After removing the wheel you should be able to see the air strut



4) Now its the time turn on the ignition, hook up your ISTA-D and your battery charger so your vehicle don't go to sleep and you ending up having to start over.



5a) Next before we begin to deflate the strut with ISTA-D, you'll need to remove the fuse for the air pump (Per "ISTA-D") go to the back fuse box (located in the right side panel in trunk) and find 40 amp fuse #110 (see yellow square)



5b) If you look at the fuse chart it says air suspension fuse #110 and #135 and you accidentally pulled fuse #135 (5 amp) you will get this nice little warning, don't worry, just turn off the ignition put the fuse back in and turn on the ignition back and you'll be good to go. I didn't know better OOPS



6a) Once you pulled the fuse its time to deflate with ISTA-D.
Go to VEHICLE MANAGEMENT>SERVICE FUNCTION>+Electronic Ride Height Control > Filling and Discharging air from air bellows > ABL Electronic ride height control (EHC) Filling and draining



6b) Next prompt it ask you if your bleeding or filling. Select Bleed of the air bellows (bottom)



6c) Next prompt, Make sure you've done the precondition check list, failure to do so will cause it to stop and you'll have to redo. Click Yes when ready. NOTE: You'll have 3 consecutive cycles before it automatically invoke a 5 min cool down of the release valve relay, it make take more then 1 cycle to deflate completely (it took me 2 cycles)



6d) Next Prompt, The air suspension will cycle the release valve and both sides will drain NOTE: NEVER LET DOWN THE VEHICLE IN DEFLATE STATE OR DAMAGE TO SUSPENSION WILL OCCUR!





7) You should be able to observe the strut contracting/deflating, also squeeze the strut bellow it should have a soft sponge like consistency, if it difficult to squeeze another deflate cycle is needed.





8) Removing the air strut, first thing is you'll need to remove the bottom squeeze tabs, a channel lock pliers or a screw drive to squeeze in the squeeze tabs, and remove from its mounting socket.



9) The bellow has 2 tabs on top that alined and twisted on to secure, to do so just rotate the entire bellow counter-clockwise, it should not take much effort to do so (if deflated fully) and only about < 1/2 turn.



10) Next Remove the air line from the bellow, you'll need to rotate the the strut top side facing outside/you this can be a bit tricky but its not bad then use a 10 mm wrench to remove the nut from strut (the line is red because i forgot to take pic and was working on the other side))



11) Remove the air line harware, you may need to use a screwdriver to pry the brass line holder/seal, check line for damage, clean and set aside.






13) Remove the strut,



OBJECTIVE NOTE arnott is diffrent from OEM in terms of the TOP part, it has a larger top clamp and the top metal clamp is exposed, vs the OEM with smaller top with the clamp recessed into the rubber bellow fold,





14) Next you'll need to swap over the dust cap from the oem to the new one, be sure you align the air line hole on the dust cover to the strut bellow.






15) Insert air line, besure to push in as far in or up to the white line, mine been arnott has a gap on the white line, i could not push in further.



16) Installation and secure, with the air line installed you have to wrestle it in it can be tricky but it's doable, start with the top part facing you, slide it in and slowly rotate the up right just watch out for the air line make sure its not kinked or twisted up. After its up right, you'll need to alight with the tabs by feel, just slowly rotate the bellow with slight upward trust and it should plop right in when you've aligned tabs correctly then slowly/gentely turn the bellow clockwise further more until it stops, and finally pull the bottom bellow down to its securing socket till it clicks and stays in place it may take some grunt to pull it down.



17) Check the air line and make sure it secure to its clips and make sure its not obstructing or kinked, Reinstall the wheel and torque lug bolts to 105 lb/ft and repeat steps 3 & 7-16 for the other side. DO NOT LET THE JACK DOWN WITHOUT REFILLING THE BELLOWS WITH AIR, SUSPENSION DAMAGE WILL OCCUR!

18) After completing the other side, reinstall fuse #110 40 amp



19) In ISTA-D, if you're still in the Bleed option, it will prompt you to perform another bleed, Select No



19b) In ISTA-D Go to VEHICLE MANAGEMENT>SERVICE FUNCTION>+Electronic Ride Height Control > Filling and Discharging air from air bellows > ABL Electronic ride height control (EHC) Filling and draining



19c) Next prompt ask you for Bleed or Fill, select Fill (top)



19d) Next prompt, there will a prerequisite checklist before performing fill function, check yes and hit continue when ready.



19e) Next Prompt, the ISTA-D will fill up the air bellow till it has reached maximum pressure will take about 20-30 seconds, once finished there will be "End of service function" hit close and that's it for ISTA-D



20) Slowly lower the vehicle and you're done, now it make take a while for it to settle down, a quick drive and it will come down to normal height and you'll never have to deal with any more saggy rear ends!!!

Thank you so much, I followed your guide on this post and my X5 is all fixed. Cheers

[Bch06]

I previously posted here after fixing the air spring issue, however this time the issue is different.

I have an X5 2014 f15 which is showing me an error “chassis function restricted” so I have done the following.

1-Both air bags have been replaced previously 3 months ago when the car dropped down to the ground level.

Recently the car has lifted itself from rear quite high so I did a test on ISTA D which showed me “front left vertical acceleration sensor” so I changed that

Now the chassis function restricted error is still there

I have also used the soapy water to check if the solenoid valve has any leak, however there is no leak.

So I removed the fault codes, and went on a ride however the error came back so this time it’s showing me a different code which is 480DB4 “control time rear left”

NOTE: The car doesn’t deflate with the ista D I have to deflate it manually by disconnecting the air pipes which goes to the Air spring, and also doesn’t inflate when I switch on the car, so I inflated with the ista D and it works.

So my question is do I need to change the air compressor? Or it might be something else? Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

[RED_Y_]

Try to replace desiccant beads in the compressor (https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1733505) ,also check this thread here
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1751937
May be you have similar issue with the valve?

[Bch06]

Originally Posted by RED_Y_

Try to replace desiccant beads in the compressor (https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1733505) ,also check this thread here
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1751937
May be you have similar issue with the valve?

Thank you for a quick reply, however couple of months ago when I changed the air spring I did open the air compressor to check if there was any moisture, but there wasn’t any, but I will open the compressor again to check.

But what I don’t understand is why is the car not inflating itself when I manually deflated? As I had to inflate it with ista D

And when I went on the ride I came back and noticed that the rear is extra ordinary high. So it means that the compressor is working fine but the air is not existing the system, does it means that the valve is block closed?

[RED_Y_]

Sounds like there is a chance that in your case that valve stuck open. Before you drop a lot of money on new one take yours out, replaced the beads, check the valve and see what happens.

[Bch06]

Attachment 2453854

So I did the test again yesterday, and ista d showed me some news faults, I have no idea where did these come from.

Also, I have also checked the air compressor all seems to look ok no corrosion or moisture, I am attaching some pictures please have a look, the only other thing I can think of is the ICM unit.

[Bch06]

Originally Posted by RED_Y_

Sounds like there is a chance that in your case that valve stuck open. Before you drop a lot of money on new one take yours out, replaced the beads, check the valve and see what happens.

So the car ride is back to normal as I recalibrated the height adjustments, but the chassis warning is still appearing on the dash, and I’m getting some new codes related to ICM

[RED_Y_]

I am not a pro on repairing these by any means but the desiccant is dirt cheap , I would replace it regardless since you got it open already. Put everything together, delete faults and drive around the block. See what happens and how your suspension works. You need to troubleshoot one problem at the time.

[Bch06]

Originally Posted by RED_Y_

I am not a pro on repairing these by any means but the desiccant is dirt cheap , I would replace it regardless since you got it open already. Put everything together, delete faults and drive around the block. See what happens and how your suspension works. You need to troubleshoot one problem at the time.

Good news, since the ride height adjustment I have been driving the car, and the dive has gone back to normal, so I connected ISTA to read the codes, all the ICM codes have disappeared, the only code I was getting was the “transport mode active” so I tried to delete, but it wasn’t deleting, ISTA keep showing a message that I need to put the car in ACTIVE PAD.

So when I clicked on the delete transport mode I got the same message so I started the car and somehow the transport mode deleted, yayyy

I then retested the car and there were no codes. I went on a long drive on the way back to home I got the “Chassis Function restricted” again I tested the car again and I got the error code 480DB4 “ “control time, lowering, rear left” now either it is the level sensor which is faulty or the compressor valve block.

Any thoughts?? Thank you again for the help so far.