Audio systems

[TMR]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

What dsp are you going to use? I just got rid of my z200.4s and got some Zuki audio 4channels eleets and a mono. Also switched to the new Zapco DSP. Honestly the Zuki amps sound way smoother and warmer then the zapcos.

Audio Control DM810. Im not really going for SQ, thats why im leaving stock front stage, just want it louder and more fun. I do have hybrid legatio 4's, gladen 8's and a few different set of tweeters, but i plan to leave the front stage alone.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by TMR

Audio Control DM810. Im not really going for SQ, thats why im leaving stock front stage, just want it louder and more fun. I do have hybrid legatio 4's, gladen 8's and a few different set of tweeters, but i plan to leave the front stage alone.

Lol that's what they all say.

[Gtz1wickedest]

Looks good bro nice and neat! JL is the way to go. You're making miss my e70 with the JL setup I'm about to put it into my f15

[GiofromNJ]

Originally Posted by Gtz1wickedest

Looks good bro nice and neat! JL is the way to go. You're making miss my e70 with the JL setup I'm about to put it into my f15

lol that's a great way to blow out the tailgate lol

[Jrunr]

i like that JL box in the spare tire well idea. Does it really sound ok being covered like that though? I just seems like you would want it vented in to the cabin somehow...

[DuSh]

So for the sub - is there a real danger to shutter rear glass or something with too powerful sub? Also, I'm currently looking at the subs available under $500 - is there a big difference between 10 inch vs 12 inch sub vs 13.5 inch sub? Given this is all new for me, I have no idea yet lol.

I do understand that for same $500 I can get a better quality 10 inch sub, but then again maybe I don't need that for stock HK system (which is mediocre at best anyway)? I'm just trying to match proper sub for HK

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by Jrunr

i like that JL box in the spare tire well idea. Does it really sound ok being covered like that though? I just seems like you would want it vented in to the cabin somehow...

It shouldn't matter. Yes will be a difference in volume with it be under the floor board. But think of it like a trunk in a car and having a sub back there.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

So for the sub - is there a real danger to shutter rear glass or something with too powerful sub? Also, I'm currently looking at the subs available under $500 - is there a big difference between 10 inch vs 12 inch sub vs 13.5 inch sub? Given this is all new for me, I have no idea yet lol.

I do understand that for same $500 I can get a better quality 10 inch sub, but then again maybe I don't need that for stock HK system (which is mediocre at best anyway)? I'm just trying to match proper sub for HK

Just stick to a name brand/well known speaker company. 10" will probably be enough bass for you. A 12" is little louder but will play a little lower. It's preference. I prefer a 12" or 15", I like my sub to play as low as it can and have my midbasses take over from 50htz up but that's probably more complex then you want. Go to a local shop and listen to the difference of a 10" and 12".

[alvav]

Brand has a lot more to do with sound than size. In general, the smaller driver won’t go as deep but will be a tighter, less muddy bass. But again, that’s a generality. Go listen to some.

[chumbedi]

Would like to upgrade audio system on X5 40e, has anyone done this and can suggest placement of amp/sub/speakers, as no place in trunk compartment / under floor board ?
Thanks

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by alvav

Brand has a lot more to do with sound than size. In general, the smaller driver won't go as deep but will be a tighter, less muddy bass. But again, that's a generality. Go listen to some.

Wrong. There are plenty of bigger subs that are as if not more accurate/tighter as a smaller sub. The design and materials of the sub has a lot to due with the cost of the sub. Muddy is usually a product of cheap equipment or poor box design.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by chumbedi

Would like to upgrade audio system on X5 40e, has anyone done this and can suggest placement of amp/sub/speakers, as no place in trunk compartment / under floor board ?
Thanks

If there is a will there is a way. Is there anything in the drivers side rear cubby?

[chumbedi]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

If there is a will there is a way. Is there anything in the drivers side rear cubby?

Yes, little bit of space, hope someone has pictures of their installation on X5 40e hybrid model.

[duercos]

Originally Posted by DuSh

So for the sub - is there a real danger to shutter rear glass or something with too powerful sub? Also, I'm currently looking at the subs available under $500 - is there a big difference between 10 inch vs 12 inch sub vs 13.5 inch sub? Given this is all new for me, I have no idea yet lol.

I do understand that for same $500 I can get a better quality 10 inch sub, but then again maybe I don't need that for stock HK system (which is mediocre at best anyway)? I'm just trying to match proper sub for HK

Personally, I would go with a single 12" or dual 10". As for brands, I like JL and alpine-good quality for your buck. JL amps and subs are a bit pricey, compared to alpine.
PS sealed enclosure is usually tighter, and ported is louder/deeper.

[DuSh]

Originally Posted by duercos

Personally, I would go with a single 12" or dual 10". As for brands, I like JL and alpine-good quality for your buck. JL amps and subs are a bit pricey, compared to alpine.
PS sealed enclosure is usually tighter, and ported is louder/deeper.

Thank you.
I went with JL 12'' inch sub a cheap entry level 350W RMS and matching JL amp (1300W peak, 350W RMS), but I'm complete noob and as a starter it should provide me some time to grow lol.
I also bought $50 T-harness to implement sub and also a LC2i from amazon.
When everything arrives I'm hoping to tackle it myself, hoping I can do it lol. I'm good with wrenches, but very inexperienced with wiring, soldering etc. Hoping that maybe there is some modern kit that will eliminate soldering and allow me to finish this project. At least everything is in the trunk area and within reach.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

Thank you.
I went with JL 12'' inch sub a cheap entry level 350W RMS and matching JL amp (1300W peak, 350W RMS), but I'm complete noob and as a starter it should provide me some time to grow lol.
I also bought $50 T-harness to implement sub and also a LC2i from amazon.
When everything arrives I'm hoping to tackle it myself, hoping I can do it lol. I'm good with wrenches, but very inexperienced with wiring, soldering etc. Hoping that maybe there is some modern kit that will eliminate soldering and allow me to finish this project. At least everything is in the trunk area and within reach.

There should not be any soldering. If you need help dm me.

[DuSh]

Guys can you please help me with T-harness for HK system. So which one will go into LC2i? So I connect C plug to D plug and then F wires go into LC2i correct? And this means probably E plug with G wires is for something else right?

[duercos]

Originally Posted by DuSh

Guys can you please help me with T-harness for HK system. So which one will go into LC2i? So I connect C plug to D plug and then F wires go into LC2i correct? And this means probably E plug with G wires is for something else right?

Check your email, I think they sent the manual that way. Didn't get a chance to install mine yet

[DuSh]

So I went into Equalizer in menu of my HK system and decreased 100Hz and 200Hz completely to 0. After that increased the volume up to half of maximum available and man the music became a lot cleaner! Of course now you need to add strong base which I'll do soon with 12'' sub. Just wanted to say HK system is not as bad as I thought lol.
Now my question is: will I still get base frequency/signal to LC2i given that I dialed down 100/200Hz in Head Unit equalizer completely? The thing is I would like anything lower 200Hz to be handled by 12'' sub I'll add - so that stock HK speakers can just focus on mids and highs.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

So I went into Equalizer in menu of my HK system and decreased 100Hz and 200Hz completely to 0. After that increased the volume up to half of maximum available and man the music became a lot cleaner! Of course now you need to add strong base which I'll do soon with 12'' sub. Just wanted to say HK system is not as bad as I thought lol.
Now my question is: will I still get base frequency/signal to LC2i given that I dialed down 100/200Hz in Head Unit equalizer completely? The thing is I would like anything lower 200Hz to be handled by 12'' sub I'll add - so that stock HK speakers can just focus on mids and highs.

That's why I say the bimmertech amp is where you should start when upgrading. The oem amp doesn't have the correct crossover points. So it over drivers the door speakers.

[DuSh]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

That's why I say the bimmertech amp is where you should start when upgrading. The oem amp doesn't have the correct crossover points. So it over drivers the door speakers.

please correct me if I'm wrong - so basically if I dial down to zero 100/200Hz in HU equalizer - it means I won't get <200Hz base signal for my lc2i/amp/sub in the trunk? So if I want to add sub and be able to get a signal for it - I will be forced to leave equalizer alone (not dial down t ozero 100/200Hz) and let HK play low frequencies <200Hz on all speakers - essentially getting a muddy sound again on HK speakers trying to play <200Hz?

Maybe in that case I can just turn off underseat mid subs and instead get wires from them to lc2i? But I'm still not sure if door speakers are going to still play 100/200Hz? So complicated

[DuSh]

I realized I might not worded my question properly. What I'm trying to find out and maybe someone can help or knows something about it - is that if there is any way to basically not feed HK speakers low frequencies - like lower than 100-200Hz so that I can crank volume up for HK speakers and they will not overdrive/distort or give muddy sound trying to reproduce lower 100-200Hz? Those 100-200Hz will be ideally used by trunk amp/sub setup instead.
I can do it in equalizer menu in head unit and remove 100-200Hz, but then in that case I suspect I won't get a signal for my trunk lc2i/amp/sub.
Any tips or ideas how to solve this?

Just simply adding a l2ci/amp/sub and leaving the rest as is - will work of course, but after I listened to a "cleaner" sound of HK speakers that they can output without 100-200Hz and with higher volume - it's hard to go back to a muddy sound.