F85 Rotors on my F15? Exhaust upgrade necessary?

[papadooks]

Originally Posted by ///d

HP has nothing to do with brakes, but weight does. Brakes are designed to be able to stop "x" amount of weight within "y" distance from "z" speed. More HP just means you can get to speed faster (and maybe go even faster yet).

Where performance brakes come into play is when you're trying to scrub a lot of speed in the shortest amount of distance multiple times while maintaining consistent bite and resisting brake fade, like while on the race track. Performance brakes will have a more consistent feel and resist heat better, which means less likely to get brake fade from hard or repeated hard braking. But the stopping power (weight they are rated to stop) is still based on the vehicle because too much braking power (brakes for a heavy vehicle used on a light vehicle ) is just as bad as not enough (brakes for a light vehicle use on a heavy vehicle). So, M performance brakes are still rated to stop the same amount of weight in the same amount of distance as your stock brakes, they just better resist heat/fade and have a better, more consistent feel.

Long story short, your stock brakes are plenty adequate on the street even with higher horsepower (unless you're driving at high speeds like an asshat, in which case it's more likely some other aspect of the vehicle (or driver) that will cause issues far before the brakes will.)

I'd put more thought into suspension/chassis and proper wheels/tires before worrying about brakes. Those will have much more impact on how the vehicle performs with higher power.

Thank you for the explanation! That was really helpful.

[papadooks]

Originally Posted by ///d

HP has nothing to do with brakes, but weight does. Brakes are designed to be able to stop "x" amount of weight within "y" distance from "z" speed. More HP just means you can get to speed faster (and maybe go even faster yet).

Where performance brakes come into play is when you're trying to scrub a lot of speed in the shortest amount of distance multiple times while maintaining consistent bite and resisting brake fade, like while on the race track. Performance brakes will have a more consistent feel and resist heat better, which means less likely to get brake fade from hard or repeated hard braking. But the stopping power (weight they are rated to stop) is still based on the vehicle because too much braking power (brakes for a heavy vehicle used on a light vehicle ) is just as bad as not enough (brakes for a light vehicle use on a heavy vehicle). So, M performance brakes are still rated to stop the same amount of weight in the same amount of distance as your stock brakes, they just better resist heat/fade and have a better, more consistent feel.

Long story short, your stock brakes are plenty adequate on the street even with higher horsepower (unless you're driving at high speeds like an asshat, in which case it's more likely some other aspect of the vehicle (or driver) that will cause issues far before the brakes will.)

I'd put more thought into suspension/chassis and proper wheels/tires before worrying about brakes. Those will have much more impact on how the vehicle performs with higher power.

What do you recommend regarding suspension/chassis upgrades? Are we talking coilovers or are spring upgrades sufficient?

[50iXman]

OK, I need new brake pads and rotors all around for my 50i.

I dont need brembo or anything fancy but Id like sloted and vented discs. Recommendations?

Since Im running 18" rims for winter any discs would need to work with that.

Ive reviewed all threads that I can find but I still have questions

[///d]

Originally Posted by 50iXman

OK, I need new brake pads and rotors all around for my 50i.

I dont need brembo or anything fancy but Id like sloted and vented discs. Recommendations?

Since Im running 18" rims for winter any discs would need to work with that.

Ive reviewed all threads that I can find but I still have questions

Since I'm unsure if you're aware, and others may not be, I'll explain rotors for all to read.

A lot of folks think vented rotors means they have the drilled holes and this is incorrect. Vented means they have fins in between each disc that help expel heat from the center. I always opt for vented rotors, and most of your slotted or drilled rotors will be vented unless you're going cheap.

Slotted rotors have grooves in the disc, drilled have holes through the disc. When you brake and your pads heat up they release gas, that gas stays trapped between the pad and the disc. Slots and holes are designed to allow gasses to escape from between the pad and the disc and allow more consistent bite.

Now, for a street driven vehicle I will always recommend;

blanks > slotted > drilled

Yes, slotted and drilled rotors look better, so if you're going for aesthetics then go for slotted, but know that on a street driven vehicle you will see a higher price tag and marginal performance increase over blanks.

On a track driven or "spirited" street vehicle I recommend slotted. This is where you'll start to see increased performance because you're braking harder and generating more heat and gas in your brakes.

Drilled rotors are a gamble and depend in the design. Most consumer market drilled rotors are a no-go and are prone to cracking between the holes. They have too many holes that too closely spaced, too close to the edge of the disc, and not enough chamfer to prevent cracking. I witnessed a Supra grenade their brakes because of cracks between the holes of their drilled rotors. I then checked mine and noticed cracks starting and promptly replaced them. I don't recommend drilled rotors until you are talking expensive, properly engineered, race car rotors.

If you're not upgrading your calipers then you don't need to worry about a rotor being too large for your wheels. You can only fit the OEM size rotor with OEM calipers. Search for rotors for your vehicle application and you'll be fine. Rotors themselves aren't that complicated and performance brands have started turning their own, so as long as you're not buying the cheap Chinese knockoffs you're likely fine. Stop-tech was always my go-to for 4 wheels, EBC for two wheels.

Pads is where you'll get your moneys worth. Issue is, if you want stopping power and bite, you'll sacrifice long life and have more dust, if you want long life and less dust you'll sacrifice stopping power and bite. Honestly for a street driven vehicle any pad from your local auto parts store is plenty. If you want performance then stick with the known braking companies like Brembo, Stop-tech, EBC, etc.

[50iXman]

Originally Posted by ///d

Since I'm unsure if you're aware, and others may not be, I'll explain rotors for all to read.

A lot of folks think vented rotors means they have the drilled holes and this is incorrect. Vented means they have fins in between each disc that help expel heat from the center. I always opt for vented rotors, and most of your slotted or drilled rotors will be vented unless you're going cheap.

Slotted rotors have grooves in the disc, drilled have holes through the disc. When you brake and your pads heat up they release gas, that gas stays trapped between the pad and the disc. Slots and holes are designed to allow gasses to escape from between the pad and the disc and allow more consistent bite.

Now, for a street driven vehicle I will always recommend;

blanks > slotted > drilled

Yes, slotted and drilled rotors look better, so if you're going for aesthetics then go for slotted, but know that on a street driven vehicle you will see a higher price tag and marginal performance increase over blanks.

On a track driven or "spirited" street vehicle I recommend slotted. This is where you'll start to see increased performance because you're braking harder and generating more head and gas in your brakes.

Drilled rotors are a gamble and depend in the design. Most consumer market drilled rotors are a no-go and are prone to cracking between the holes. They have too many holes that too closely spaced, too close to the edge of the disc, and not enough chamfer to prevent cracking. I witnessed a Supra grenade their brakes because of cracks between the holes of their drilled rotors. I then checked mine and noticed cracks starting and promptly replaced them. I don't recommend drilled rotors until you are talking expensive, properly engineered, race car rotors.

If you're not upgrading your calipers then you don't need to worry about a rotor being too large for your wheels. You can only fit the OEM size rotor with OEM calipers. Search for rotors for your vehicle application and you'll be fine. Rotors themselves aren't that complicated and performance brands have started turning their own, so as long as you're not buying the cheap Chinese knockoffs you're likely fine. Stop-tech was always my go-to for 4 wheels, EBC for two wheels.

Pads is where you'll get your moneys worth. Issue is, if you want stopping power and bite, you'll sacrifice long life and have more dust, if you want long life and less dust you'll sacrifice stopping power and bite. Honestly for a street driven vehicle any pad from your local auto parts store is plenty. If you want performance then stick with the known braking companies like Brembo, Stop-tech, EBC, etc.

Can't thank you enough for this!!! slotted and vented it is! Maybe brembo pads. I dont see Brembo makes rotors for the stock F15. Advice here?