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      08-13-2018, 08:01 PM   #89
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Why is is so impossible to source these Mann filters for the 50i. Anyone have any idea? I had to resort to flea bay and spend $25.

Yes I know I can get the oem Mahle but I just am a Fan of Mann.

Also is the crush washer only included with the mahle filters? Never heard of them being included with filters.
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      06-21-2019, 08:59 AM   #90
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Great post, thanks.

The only argument that I am aware of against Rotella T-6 vs. the BMW diesel oil is that it is not low ash to the extent the BMW oil is and you may eventually plug up your diesel particulates filter. Maybe.

- Geo

Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
My car just clicked 5000 miles and since I own the car, I never let the oil change go past 5000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends. I remember Mercedes stated 15,000 was ok until engines failed and they pulled the recommendation back to 12 or 13,000 miles. I've built too many engines and seen the problems with extended change intervals. Anyway, this post is not to debate when you change your oil - it's your car, do what you think it best. This post is to show you how to do it, if you have an interest to do so.

The oil change is the easiest I have ever done. You need:

1. ramps to drive the front of the car up on
2. 17 mm socket to remove and tighten the drain plug
3. 27 mm socket to remove the filter cap
4. 7 quarts (or 6.5L) of approved diesel oil (I used the recommended Castrol oil from the dealer)
5. an oil filter

Drive the car to warm the oil. This helps drain the oil quicker and mixes any contaminants for easy removal. Now drive the car up on the ramp and set the parking brake. This gives a lot of room for you to work safely.

Open the hood of the car and remove the plastic engine cover and locate the oil filter cap (see the first pic below). Using the 27 mm socket, unscrew the cap but do not remove. You want the oil in the filter to drain into the pan.

Now, get under the car and find the oil drain plug cover (the next pic). Using your fingernail, if you like, squeeze the door spring and let the door open and drop down. I removed it to keep it safe.

Get a container that can hold at least 10 quarts of oil and place it under the oil drain plug (shown in the next pic). Using your 17mm socket, remove the drain plug and let the oil drain into container. Clean the drain plug looking for metal as the plug is magnetized. It should be clean with a possible layer of very fine metal, the consistency of paint clay (super-fine, and you should not feel any particles). Make sure all the oil is drained.

In the oil filter box will be the filter, an o-ring for the filter cap and a copper crush washer that will be used when replacing the drain plug (see next pic). A new washer ensures a good seal. Place the copper washer on the plug and reinstall, and torque to 12 ft lbs, or just very snug if you don't have a torque wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

In the engine compartment, remove the filter cap that you loosened earlier. The filter is press-fit into the cap (see next pic). Notice the anti-drain plug built into the filter and where it fits into the engine (see next pic). You will see a silver colored circle in the top right of the filter cavity - this is where the anti-drain plug fits when you reinstall. This keeps oil from draining when you turn off the car, so oil will be ready to circulate when you start the car.

Remove the filter from the cap by pulling it straight out, using a bit of muscle and slight twisting. I like to clean the inside of the cap, but that's up to you. When cleaned, I reinstall the new filter in the cap. Note the difference in color of the filter after only 5000 miles (see next pic of filters). In the filter's box, you will find a new o-ring for the cap. Remove the old o-ring and replace it with the new o-ring. For good measure, coat the new o-ring with a light layer of oil for proper sealing (see the next pic showing the o-ring being removed, over-lapping the threads).

Install the filter cap back into the engine, keeping the anti-drain plug lined up with the hole shown in the earlier pic. It's easy and will slip into place. Now, screw the filter cap back on and tighten just snug enough to stay in place. You will need to overcome the resistance of the new o-ring.

Now place a funnel (if you like) in the oil filler neck (next pic). Pour the new oil into the funnel (see next pic), using 6.5 liters, or roughly 7 quarts. I used all 7 quarts. Make sure you've replaced the oil drain door and replaced the plastic engine cover, and of course the oil filler cap. Start the engine and check for drips or leaks. It should start immediately and should not have any clicking or tapping noises.

If you think you shouldn't change your oil regularly, take a look at the next pic and see how black and dirty the oil was that was removed from this engine after the first 5000 miles. I have been working on engines since the late 70's and owned diesels for over 20 years, and have to say this is the blackest, dirtiest oil I have ever seen coming from a new, or any mileage engine - gas or diesel. Just wow....

I bought the oil from the dealer for $6.80 per quart and the filter was $22. It is also the smallest filter I have ever seen on a car of this displacement. In addition, it is paper and not fleece like other BMW or Merc motors. Given this is a diesel with high soot levels, I am very surprised there is not more oil (like 8 or 9 quarts for cooling) and the filter is not more "robust" for filtering. I use a 3 micron stainless steel mesh re-usable filter on my 05 Powerstroke and the oil removed from it is a very dark amber. Anyway, my oil change will be easy to remember - every 5,000 miles after the dealer changes it every 10,000 mile increment. When it's out of warranty, I will change to a real diesel oil such as Rotella T-6 synthetic. Even the API spec on the Castrol container is an obsolete spec which kind of cracks me up, knowing BMW endorses the oil. I think it's a sponsorship thing rather than a performance thing...

Good luck.
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      07-15-2019, 12:26 PM   #91
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Hello Clifton - where would the service dipstick be on the 2015 X5 35d? I'm about to do my oil change in the next month and was wondering if there was such a port or pipe to insert the tube to extract. Thank you!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifton View Post
Couple of things I wanted to add to this thread. First, thanks to OP for posting - GOOD STUFF!

The 5,000 mile oil was very sooty to say the least. I captured some of the oil for a Black Stone analysis to know more if a 5k interval is necessary. I'm wondering if a more frequent filter only change would help in lieu of oil & filter.

Added Lessons Learned:

1.) With the diesels having the service dipstick, I used a fluid extractor and I never had to remove the drain plug. I also used the suction to get all the old oil from the filter housing. Worked perfectly!

2.) BMW oil kits come in Liter bottles. Diesels hold 6.5 liters - don't use all 7 Liters or you will get a MAX oil level warning. Ask me how I know.

3.) 2016 and newer use 0w-30. Older versions variants use 5w-30


Additional tool suggestions:

1.) Amazon - 'Motivx Tools 27mm Low Profile Oil Filter Socket'. It was $13 prime and fit like a factory oil wrench.

2.) Griot's - MULTI-FLUID EXTRACTOR ITEM# 10115. $99 and it can be used for oil, transmissions and brakes.
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      07-15-2019, 03:28 PM   #92
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Great write up! Thanks for your time and effort. I will defiantly come back to this when its time for an oil change
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      07-16-2019, 05:26 PM   #93
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What type of oil would you use for 2016 40d 135k km??
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      07-18-2019, 11:47 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
My car just clicked 5000 miles and since I own the car, I never let the oil change go past 5000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends. I remember Mercedes stated 15,000 was ok until engines failed and they pulled the recommendation back to 12 or 13,000 miles. I've built too many engines and seen the problems with extended change intervals. Anyway, this post is not to debate when you change your oil - it's your car, do what you think it best. This post is to show you how to do it, if you have an interest to do so.

The oil change is the easiest I have ever done. You need:

1. ramps to drive the front of the car up on
2. 17 mm socket to remove and tighten the drain plug
3. 27 mm socket to remove the filter cap
4. 7 quarts (or 6.5L) of approved diesel oil (I used the recommended Castrol oil from the dealer)
5. an oil filter

Drive the car to warm the oil. This helps drain the oil quicker and mixes any contaminants for easy removal. Now drive the car up on the ramp and set the parking brake. This gives a lot of room for you to work safely.

Open the hood of the car and remove the plastic engine cover and locate the oil filter cap (see the first pic below). Using the 27 mm socket, unscrew the cap but do not remove. You want the oil in the filter to drain into the pan.

Now, get under the car and find the oil drain plug cover (the next pic). Using your fingernail, if you like, squeeze the door spring and let the door open and drop down. I removed it to keep it safe.

Get a container that can hold at least 10 quarts of oil and place it under the oil drain plug (shown in the next pic). Using your 17mm socket, remove the drain plug and let the oil drain into container. Clean the drain plug looking for metal as the plug is magnetized. It should be clean with a possible layer of very fine metal, the consistency of paint clay (super-fine, and you should not feel any particles). Make sure all the oil is drained.

In the oil filter box will be the filter, an o-ring for the filter cap and a copper crush washer that will be used when replacing the drain plug (see next pic). A new washer ensures a good seal. Place the copper washer on the plug and reinstall, and torque to 12 ft lbs, or just very snug if you don't have a torque wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

In the engine compartment, remove the filter cap that you loosened earlier. The filter is press-fit into the cap (see next pic). Notice the anti-drain plug built into the filter and where it fits into the engine (see next pic). You will see a silver colored circle in the top right of the filter cavity - this is where the anti-drain plug fits when you reinstall. This keeps oil from draining when you turn off the car, so oil will be ready to circulate when you start the car.

Remove the filter from the cap by pulling it straight out, using a bit of muscle and slight twisting. I like to clean the inside of the cap, but that's up to you. When cleaned, I reinstall the new filter in the cap. Note the difference in color of the filter after only 5000 miles (see next pic of filters). In the filter's box, you will find a new o-ring for the cap. Remove the old o-ring and replace it with the new o-ring. For good measure, coat the new o-ring with a light layer of oil for proper sealing (see the next pic showing the o-ring being removed, over-lapping the threads).

Install the filter cap back into the engine, keeping the anti-drain plug lined up with the hole shown in the earlier pic. It's easy and will slip into place. Now, screw the filter cap back on and tighten just snug enough to stay in place. You will need to overcome the resistance of the new o-ring.

Now place a funnel (if you like) in the oil filler neck (next pic). Pour the new oil into the funnel (see next pic), using 6.5 liters, or roughly 7 quarts. I used all 7 quarts. Make sure you've replaced the oil drain door and replaced the plastic engine cover, and of course the oil filler cap. Start the engine and check for drips or leaks. It should start immediately and should not have any clicking or tapping noises.

If you think you shouldn't change your oil regularly, take a look at the next pic and see how black and dirty the oil was that was removed from this engine after the first 5000 miles. I have been working on engines since the late 70's and owned diesels for over 20 years, and have to say this is the blackest, dirtiest oil I have ever seen coming from a new, or any mileage engine - gas or diesel. Just wow....

I bought the oil from the dealer for $6.80 per quart and the filter was $22. It is also the smallest filter I have ever seen on a car of this displacement. In addition, it is paper and not fleece like other BMW or Merc motors. Given this is a diesel with high soot levels, I am very surprised there is not more oil (like 8 or 9 quarts for cooling) and the filter is not more "robust" for filtering. I use a 3 micron stainless steel mesh re-usable filter on my 05 Powerstroke and the oil removed from it is a very dark amber. Anyway, my oil change will be easy to remember - every 5,000 miles after the dealer changes it every 10,000 mile increment. When it's out of warranty, I will change to a real diesel oil such as Rotella T-6 synthetic. Even the API spec on the Castrol container is an obsolete spec which kind of cracks me up, knowing BMW endorses the oil. I think it's a sponsorship thing rather than a performance thing...

Good luck.
Are you sure this applies to the BMW F15 or F16? As I recall the filter cap in these cars is a different one and you need a special tool.
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      07-19-2019, 02:03 AM   #95
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Yes, what 42pilot wrote up was for the F15 diesel. His write up is several years old so pricing and oil brands have evolved since this was written up. But, it still applies, and following his write up will keep DIYers happy while saving a few dollars over what typically is charged by the dealers or independent shops.

For those that are relatively new to this forum you would do well to use the search function and familiarize yourself with the other write ups 42pilot produced for this forum during the time he was active here. He was especially helpful with his experience as well as adding quite a bit of value for the benefit of those who are willing to spend time in this forum acquiring knowledge about our F15s.

There is no “special tool” needed for the diesel oil filter. The filter is different from what some people expect to see if they are inclined to change their own oil and filter, but with care and careful reading on this forum it IS a very simple procedure to perform.
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Last edited by F15GorDe; 07-19-2019 at 02:11 AM.. Reason: Additional context.
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      01-23-2020, 11:33 AM   #96
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Resurrecting this old and very useful thread with an "oh no, another oil question". Sorry...did a few searches, and seems like the derided oil threads are getting outdated.

New to me 2015 F15 X5 diesel, and selecting oil. I like the FCPEuro lifetime approach (buy everything through them for my E46 M3 already), and they have the BMW TwinPowerTurbo 0w30 oil, LL-12FE for only $7.13/liter. My other inclination is to go Liqui Moly Top Tec 4605 5w30 (LL-04) and run that for the life of my X5. I've also read the VW 505 and 507 requirements are very tough to meet, and looks like Top Tec 4200 meets that (4605 only has 505 so far, though I thought 4605 was "better").

So I've got Liqui Moly at about $10/liter, and BMW for $7/liter, and FCPEuro will essentially replace it for life for the cost of return shipping. What's the best for my engine? Or should I skip that entirely for the sake of the engine and go Rotella T6 or Pennzoil Euro L (which I understand might be identical to BMW TPT)?
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      01-23-2020, 01:55 PM   #97
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BMW for $7.
I have no scientific proof whether it's the best oil on Earth or instantly gives you cancer, but I do know that if needed i can surely get a 1qt bottle at the nearest BMW dealer to top off or whatever; finding Liqui Moly, I imagine, is much more challenging.
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      04-27-2020, 10:44 AM   #98
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Hi All, in the second picture in the OP's DIY, there is a plastic oil drain cover attached to the reinforcement plate. This is missing from my new-to-me X5d. I've scoured NewTis (talks about the lid, doesn't have PN), RealOEM (found reinforcement plate, doesn't show cover as a part or in pic) and Google searches for this part number, but can't locate it anywhere. Does anybody know it?
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      09-20-2020, 03:00 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesInSJ View Post
Hi All, in the second picture in the OP's DIY, there is a plastic oil drain cover attached to the reinforcement plate. This is missing from my new-to-me X5d. I've scoured NewTis (talks about the lid, doesn't have PN), RealOEM (found reinforcement plate, doesn't show cover as a part or in pic) and Google searches for this part number, but can't locate it anywhere. Does anybody know it?
post #87 mentioned it: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/51757325393/
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      12-18-2020, 03:44 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifton View Post
Couple of things I wanted to add to this thread. First, thanks to OP for posting - GOOD STUFF!

The 5,000 mile oil was very sooty to say the least. I captured some of the oil for a Black Stone analysis to know more if a 5k interval is necessary. I'm wondering if a more frequent filter only change would help in lieu of oil & filter.

Added Lessons Learned:

1.) With the diesels having the service dipstick, I used a fluid extractor and I never had to remove the drain plug. I also used the suction to get all the old oil from the filter housing. Worked perfectly!

2.) BMW oil kits come in Liter bottles. Diesels hold 6.5 liters - don't use all 7 Liters or you will get a MAX oil level warning. Ask me how I know.

3.) 2016 and newer use 0w-30. Older versions variants use 5w-30


Additional tool suggestions:

1.) Amazon - 'Motivx Tools 27mm Low Profile Oil Filter Socket'. It was $13 prime and fit like a factory oil wrench.

2.) Griot's - MULTI-FLUID EXTRACTOR ITEM# 10115. $99 and it can be used for oil, transmissions and brakes.

Hi does anyone know if the 2017 X5 Xdrive 35d can use a MULTI-FLUID EXTRACTOR to remove oil ? That would be great to not have to put the X5 on ramps or jack stands.
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      12-18-2020, 03:49 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notchy View Post
Hi does anyone know if the 2017 X5 Xdrive 35d can use a MULTI-FLUID EXTRACTOR to remove oil ? That would be great to not have to put the X5 on ramps or jack stands.

CONFIRMED: I have a 2017 35d and yes you can use a fluid extractor to siphon the oil. I used a Griots brand fluid extractor.
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      12-18-2020, 04:02 PM   #102
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Thanks for the response Clifton.

Have you stuck with siphoning the oil now that you found this procedure out or do you do a mix of siphoning and normal drain plug procedure ?

Is it a matter of pushing the siphoning hose down the dip stick shaft ?
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      12-20-2020, 07:50 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notchy View Post
Thanks for the response Clifton.

Have you stuck with siphoning the oil now that you found this procedure out or do you do a mix of siphoning and normal drain plug procedure ?

Is it a matter of pushing the siphoning hose down the dip stick shaft ?
I've been using the siphoning oil trick for years, even on BMW vehicles used on the track. It makes chaining oil so easy you could do it wearing a business suit.

You sometimes need to reposition and reinsert the siphon in the dipstick tube. But, if you are patient, it gets just about everything in the oil pan. At the end, you will hear siphon start to make on-off burbling sounds like using a straw to find the last drops of your drink. You can keep trying to siphon more or call it a day. What little oil is left behind won't hurt and has never shown to taint future oil analysis reports.

Good luck!
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      12-20-2020, 12:32 PM   #104
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My experience with this kind of vacuum pump to suck out all the engine oil via the dip stick pipe is not so good. I could not take out more that 5,5 liters of oil from my N57, that means 1 more liter of used oil remained inside. That is almost 20% of the oil... So I ended up buying 2 solid jack stands for the next oil change.
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      12-20-2020, 01:26 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatalinP View Post
My experience with this kind of vacuum pump to suck out all the engine oil via the dip stick pipe is not so good. I could not take out more that 5,5 liters of oil from my N57, that means 1 more liter of used oil remained inside. That is almost 20% of the oil... So I ended up buying 2 solid jack stands for the next oil change.

User error? The max the Griot extractor can hold is 6.8Q/6.4L. If you begin to reach the limit, the suction will notably slow with the siphon line showing suspended oil. If you are at the max and are not convinced you got most/all, you simply release the vacuum of the extractor, pour some/all of the used oil our and then resume the extraction. I've never had an issue, and I've never had any sizable amount of oil in pan or filter housing.

Also, are you sure that missing quart/liter wasn't in the filter? A used filter would easily begin to make up the difference you were missing.
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      12-20-2020, 01:45 PM   #106
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I removed the old oil filter before extracting the oil. The pump I use has 9 liter capacity, and the reason I know 1 liter remained inside is because after I filled the engine with 6,5 liters on new oil, the level was way above max and I had to take out 1 liter to reach the max level.
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      12-20-2020, 02:54 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatalinP View Post
I removed the old oil filter before extracting the oil. The pump I use has 9 liter capacity, and the reason I know 1 liter remained inside is because after I filled the engine with 6,5 liters on new oil, the level was way above max and I had to take out 1 liter to reach the max level.
Strange - the physical dipstick port provides access to the lowest point of the oil pan which is right next to the drain plug reservoir. Which is actually lower than the e-dipstick. So if you fed the siphon all the way into the drain reservoir, the only way there was a quart of oil left after extraction would be user error.
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      12-17-2023, 07:27 PM   #108
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The little poke thing on the filter
Is it possible to miss the hole inside the oil filter housing?
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