02-16-2020, 11:37 AM | #1 |
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Correct brake fluid for flush?
Hello guys I plan to DIY my daughters 2015 X5 35i as its due for a brake flush with OEM fluid. I looked up realoem for the correct brake fluid and recommended fluid seems to be made in japan and isnt found in the database anymore looks to be discontinued. I checked FCP euro and the one compatible OEM BMW fluid available isn't low viscosity which was # 81220142156 what I don't understand is in newtis the recommended fluid shows as a low viscosity fluid #83130443026 but once again that seems to have been discontinued as I can't get a hold of either fluids on any bmw vendor sites and now Im confused any help would be much appreciated thank you!!
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02-16-2020, 01:30 PM | #2 |
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Wife's 2015 x5 50i is due for brake flush in month. i'm going to diy and use the TYP200 dot4 which is very popular among bmw owners :https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ate-part...r/type200~ate/
There's also the oem but I don't like that you need to purchase a gazzilion bottles of it: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/81220142156/ |
02-16-2020, 02:34 PM | #5 |
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Thanks I will be sticking with oem..does anyone know the fill amount I searched but found nothing for the F15 and newtis just says fill to the top Im guessing 3 bottles of the 355mL?
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02-27-2020, 02:44 PM | #10 |
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ATE 200 is good stuff, but any synthetic DOT 4 will do. I've been using the Valvoline found at any auto parts store for years.
While you can change the fluid the "old school" way of pumping the pedal, you really want to get a pressure bleeder of some sort. Make sure it comes with the BMW cap adapter. The only other special tool you'll need is the wrench to loosen the bleeder valves. I remove the old fluid from my reservoir with a fluid syringe. This allows you to use less new fluid as well as get it pushed through the lines quicker. Fill the reservoir with new fluid, then fill the pressure bottle, attach it and apply pressure. Start bleeding from the furthest caliper (right rear), working to the closest. Once the fluid runs clean, tighten the bleeder and move to the next caliper. Keep check on your bottle to ensure pressure remains and the reservoir fluid level doesn't ever drop below the bottom (introducing air). I use the Valvoline because it's clear so very easy to see when the new fluid is running at the caliper. This isn't a complicated process at all, I can't imagine why people pay $200+ to have this done.
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04-11-2021, 11:23 PM | #12 |
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For those curious the low viscosity version of TYP 200 is SL.6. It's supposed to work better with modern braking systems but idk. Never heard of it until now as I'm looking for replace it on my X end given NEWTIS recommends this I'll probably go this route.
Slightly lower boiling points but half the viscosity which is supposed to provide a firmer pedal and less moisture absorption, from some other reviews I've read. Again I know everyone is pushing the TYP 200 and that's fine (I used to use the super blue myself before they made it illegal in the US, sure made changes much easier to swap between blue and gold). Not trying to persuade anyone 1 way or the other. Just providing amplifying info.
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04-12-2021, 03:55 PM | #13 |
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Typically, I have my local INDY do the flush because its super reasonable. They flush and fill with MOTUL.
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