B&O center speaker knock off.!

[-c-]

Originally Posted by NCThreePedals

reviving this thread since I refuse to pay $1k for a used B&O speaker

Has anyone else done this, should I stick with the link OP provided to purchase? I see the same speaker on the site for $100 less from different vendors, is there a difference?

The prices fluctuate and different vendors sell the same thing at all different price points.

But not all are created equal

The one you want
To make sure you get is the one that has the high quality anodization so it doesn't discolor from the sun exposure.

Some seem like super cheap knockoffs of knockoffs lol.

So make sure you do your homework!

Mines been working flawlessly now since it's purchase and after install code the B&O option on idrive to make use of the spacial sound effect the speaker gives you.

[blackoutF15]

Originally Posted by -c-

No. Not sure why your so hard set on the cig lighter

The speaker took less than 30 minutes to install and didn't have to take anything apart except for the lower panel Which was a couple screws.


The hardest part was cutting the dash so the speaker could fit. After that it was super easy to run the wires and connect.

Wait..I'm confused. When you say only need to take out the lower part, you mean the radio/cd player? How about the power source? I thought you'd need to wire to the fuse box. This is the part I'm not confident and have little knowledge to do. I can handle cutting the plastic bracket and removing the trims.

[-c-]

Originally Posted by blackoutF15

Wait..I'm confused. When you say only need to take out the lower part, you mean the radio/cd player? How about the power source? I thought you'd need to wire to the fuse box. This is the part I'm not confident and have little knowledge to do. I can handle cutting the plastic bracket and removing the trims.

No the lower foot well panel to access the fuse panel. It's literally just a couple screws and comes off. You then fish the wires from the speaker to the 12 v and the aux. it takes literally 30'minutes and your done.

Having to remove the panels where on the 5 series and others taking a very hard rout

You need to lengthen the wires though….



If I have time I can take a pic of the fuses we jumped to in order for it to work.

Unless someone has a pic they can share.


Trust me if you connect to the 12v lighter you're making more work for yourself and you won't be happy with the operation.

[blackoutF15]

Originally Posted by -c-

No the lower foot well panel to access the fuse panel. It's literally just a couple screws and comes off. You then fish the wires from the speaker to the 12 v and the aux. it takes literally 30'minutes and your done.

Having to remove the panels where on the 5 series and others taking a very hard rout

You need to lengthen the wires though….



If I have time I can take a pic of the fuses we jumped to in order for it to work.

Unless someone has a pic they can share.


Trust me if you connect to the 12v lighter you're making more work for yourself and you won't be happy with the operation.

Ok I'm convinced that it is the best way to connect to fuse box. A picture would be nice. Another question, as for the speakers, do you just reuse the harness/cable from the OEM speakers that are removed? Plug and play? Since you don't need to remove the dash trim and radio unit. Thanks for your pro tips.

[-c-]

Originally Posted by blackoutF15

Ok I'm convinced that it is the best way to connect to fuse box. A picture would be nice. Another question, as for the speakers, do you just reuse the harness/cable from the OEM speakers that are removed? Plug and play? Since you don't need to remove the dash trim and radio unit. Thanks for your pro tips.

Yes you just unplug the speaker wire out of the standard speaker and then plug in the new one.

And it will work just like the OEM standard speaker.

If you want the movement and led you need to wire up to the fuse box.

[blackoutF15]

Originally Posted by -c-

Yes you just unplug the speaker wire out of the standard speaker and then plug in the new one.

And it will work just like the OEM standard speaker.

If you want the movement and led you need to wire up to the fuse box.

Thanks. Now I'm clear on what needs to be done. Just need to know the details on fuse box connection.

[NCThreePedals]

Originally Posted by -c-

The prices fluctuate and different vendors sell the same thing at all different price points.

But not all are created equal

The one you want
To make sure you get is the one that has the high quality anodization so it doesn't discolor from the sun exposure.

Some seem like super cheap knockoffs of knockoffs lol.

So make sure you do your homework!

Mines been working flawlessly now since it's purchase and after install code the B&O option on idrive to make use of the spacial sound effect the speaker gives you.

Thank you so much for replying! The link you have on the original post has the proper anodization?

Yes I was planning on getting it coded as well, but I won't do the install I'll let a shop deal with it!

[-c-]

Originally Posted by NCThreePedals

Thank you so much for replying! The link you have on the original post has the proper anodization?

Yes I was planning on getting it coded as well, but I won't do the install I'll let a shop deal with it!

Yes it had the proper anodizing and is still like new.

Others will fade to gold. So sometimes the little bit of extra cash is sometimes for the better process with UV stability.

Again their may be just as good of a unit out their but it's a roll of the dice.

The one I got from this vendor was a 1 to 1 perfect replica.

Even down to the speaker design.

If you held the two side by side I don't think you could tell the difference. It's that good.

Quality is also top shelf and it's super quiet actuation where it's silent and no motor noise.

I also scored the complete B&O speaker grills off eBay and wired up the door covers for the led. Then coded it for B&O and you can here the difference, that tweeter design and angle change on the windshield seems to make a difference.


Crank it and it has no distortion so for the money I was sold.



However ask if it's got the B&O text on the cover.
Mine did and not sure if they show it missing because of copyright. The old pics use to have the B&O text but those are now gone. It's been a while.

[77juli77]

Originally Posted by -c-

Right the fuse box connection is if you add in a relay so it goes up and down when you turn off and on the stereo. Or use the OEM amp.

The other route just connects to the back of the idrive system quad lock connector. Everything you need is their so that's what they connect to.

The easy way will have it turn up when the car turns on and lowers when you shut it off.

DO you know what kind of realy? model thanks

[-c-]

Hello, All the stereo shop did was hook the speaker up the original speaker and then for the led and power up and power down just snaked the wires down and hooked them into the fuse box.

By relay I was just saying they connected it to a fuse with a “add a fuse” and tapped into a fuse block that turns on and off when the car is powered on and off.

It took them 15 or 20 minutes to power it up,
The hardest part was cutting the dash for the speaker.

I’d have to take off the fuse cover to show you whitch one they used.

But you don’t need to remove any panels.

Just remove the fuse box panel under the dash. And just fish the speaker wire from the top, Super simple

[-c-]

I just connected it to the fuse. I never turn off the stereo just turn it down. So it going up and Down when I start and shut off the car is the direction i took.

The installer said he would have installed a relay or different fuse to have it the other way around and it would have costed more money so I just went cheap .


So it’s been a few years now and happy to report it still works flaiwlessly and sounds great and no fading of the aluminum.

[Upurock]

Edit:
Jumped to posting questions too soon lol, didn’t realize Thread is 7 pages long and all we’re already answered.
Great job OP! I don’t care much about the HK vs BO sound wise, but had popup speaker in my m6 and got used to it, so now if it’s get f85 with HK I know what to do!
Thank you!

[Staszek]

I know this is an old thread, but what fuses did you use for constant on and for the ACC? Not just the fuse number but what did they run?

[Cranswick852]

Constant on was OBD2 port, switched was parking sensors.