09-20-2018, 08:40 PM | #1 |
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Advice on F15 35d Purchase
Hi all,
I'm looking to pick up a 2015 or 2016 X5 xDrive35d in the next few months, and was hoping to get some advice and a run-down of common issues to watch out for. I have an E61 which has been great, but we need something to replace my wife's car with in advance of our first child Is there a buying guide anywhere like there is for the E60/61? Any common problems or warranty repairs I should be aware of? I'm looking for one with the Cold Weather Package (ZCW), comfort seats (456), and I'd like to find one with night vision (6UK) if possible. Any other must-have options? Is there a way to search pre-owned inventory by option code? Thanks in advance! |
09-21-2018, 10:14 AM | #2 | |
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Just went through the same process my self. This is what I found so far: Fuel economy of 35d is amazing - 32+mpg hwy Prior to purchase of any vehicle, get a BMW specific code scanner (carly or something similar - plenty of them out there), and scan the car. Even if there is no check engine light, there could be underlying codes that would be indicating a potential problem. This is a MUST! Codes will tell you a health of the vehicle. When pulling codes check for following: Mileage discrepancy, how long has been since check engine reset (codes reset), if OBD is ready, etc. What you are trying to figure out is how long have these codes been on there. If there are no codes, did someone wipe them shortly before trying to sell the car (trying to hide potential issues). Issues: Injectors are sensitive to bad fuel. So proper maintenance is a must. If the fuel filter was not replaced regularly, then injectors might be clogged up. It's not difficult to replace them nor expensive. Just a bit tedious. Carbon build up is another potential issue. It's not as bad as older M57 engines, but it still happens. Most issues happening on this engine could be related to the carbon build up. Gasket leaks are also common especially with higher mileage vehicles. It's common for any car, but at around 60-80k miles, some of your gaskets will start to leak (oil pan, valve cover, differentials, rear crank seal, etc.). Parts are cheap, but repairs require a lot of time. Time = $$$ Air suspension is prone to issues: leaky airbags, bad compressor, leaky lines, bad sensors, etc. Not too expensive to replace your self, but it might cause you some headache in the long run. Driver seat can develop rips along the edge of the seat (above the seat controls). Warranty covers this - if you still have it. Weather striping along the door can develop cracks. Cheap and easy to replace, also covered by warranty. Steering column tends to develop some issues - car has easy in / out, where the column moves every time you enter or exit the vehicle. This puts extra stress on the mechanism, thus causing potential for failure. Check all windows, doors, and trunk if they are operating properly. Remove front carpets and see if there is moisture under the front passenger foot-well. Drain can become clogged and water might enter into the cabin, causing mold, smell, rot, and even electrical issues. Listen to any clunks from the front suspension. Early models had issues with lower wishbones making a clunking noise. There is a service bulletin on this issue. Where to start: First - get a brochure for a specific year and study it. So if you are looking at 2015, get 2015 x5 brochure and see what options / packages were available for that year. See what would you like if you were buying a brand new car and start looking for those options. Google is your friend. What to look for: Get comfort access - a must. HUD display is nice, but not a must. Line departure is annoying (yes it can be turned off, but it is more of a gimmick then useful). If you can find one with a radar cruise control, get it. Comfort seats are nice, but regular seats are very comfortable as well. Sport package is nice, especially the steering wheel, but seats are stiffer and less comfortable than regular seats. This might be very unpopular opinion on here, but if you are planning on keeping the longer, don't get M sport package. Look for running boards. M sport makes installation of running boards slightly more burdensome. Running boards will make coming in and out of the car way easier - especially when your kiddo starts walking. Not having 20 inch 315 wide tires gives you more flexibility to tire choice and makes cushier ride. Air suspension is nice and other optional suspensions are nice (dynamic handling package, etc.). However, even the stock suspension is decent and very comfortable. I would not call it "settling" if you do decide to go with the regular suspension. Don't bother with B&O sound. H&K is perfectly sufficient. Leader dashboard is super nice, but not necessarily a must. It brings up the interior on another level. Shopping: There is no such site that allows you to search by options. However, what you can do is this: Become familiar with how specific options look like and seek them in pictures. For example, you can easy distinguish between lux and M sport just by looking at the front bumper. use bmw vin decoders (google it) - there is plenty of them, so utilize them. If the car is still under warranty, do PPI prior or after purchase and address everything through the warranty. Speak to the actual mechanic doing the work and tip them - establish a relationship). Note: if you have time / know how, lift the car up and inspect the underbelly for any leaks. Engine is encased so well from below, that you will not see any leaks unless you remove: plastic cover, metal skid plate, and oil pan wrap. Only then, you can see the engine and if it has any leaks. Looking under the car without doing this will not reveal any leaks unless they are major. Maybe I should post this as a separate thread and polish it a bit. But hopefully, you will find this useful. |
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09-21-2018, 02:15 PM | #3 |
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Thank you for the very detailed reply!
I have Carly (and a BMW scan tool), and am very familiar with many of these issues coming from an N54 E61 (carbon build-up, air suspension, sunroof seal/drains, injectors, etc). I will certainly pull codes and get a PPI on any vehicle I am seriously considering. I have the comfort seats in my 5 series and love them. I am tall with long legs, so the extendable thigh bolsters are a must. I appreciate the run down on the other options! If I pick up a CPO, would it be worth it to get an extended warranty on top of it? I haven't looked into what my options are yet through BMW. |
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09-21-2018, 02:38 PM | #4 |
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Quite honestly it depends. I just dropped off my car at the dealership cuz it had a small oil seep around the transfer case. Oil looked old and insignificant (car rode just fine), but they decided to replace the entire transfer case anyways. That is almost $4000 job. My car is not even at 50k miles. So, it truly depends. If you get a CPO and do PPI prior to warranty expiring (get trusted mechanic and do it yourself), then you can potentially address all issues before the warranty expires and be at peace for next 50k miles.
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09-23-2018, 01:27 AM | #5 |
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Any thoughts on 35d reliability vs the 35i?
Does anyone with the 35d regret getting it for any reason? I've never owned a diesel before, but all of my research points to the 35d being the better option. |
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09-23-2018, 01:11 PM | #6 |
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N57 engine hasn't been around (in US) long enough to talk about common issues, so who knows what its aluminium block and rear location of the timing chain will bring us. Also curious re its much smaller oil filter. But everything else should be more or less comparable to E70.
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09-23-2018, 05:40 PM | #7 |
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As far as reliability between the two, they are about equal. I own both a 2014 35I and 35D. I've never had to do any major repairs on them and hope it stays that way. Right before purchasing the 35D with 124k, I called up the BMW dealership that serviced the vehicle and had them email me the complete service history since day one. I made sure all maintenance items were done on time and repair work completed also not reoccurring(sign there might be issues). For me purchasing with 124k told me the owner drove a lot on the hwy which diesels should be doing and owner shook down any issues. Its not even a year yet an I'm at 142k miles and avg ~33mpg(~700 tank). The 35I on the other hand...~17-25mpg (~300-400 tank). The only thing I like about the 35I is the exhaust note on a cold start.
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09-23-2018, 06:31 PM | #8 | |
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I personally considered all 3 non-M variants of x5. 35i felt very pedestrian. It felt somewhat sluggish. It had to be pushed a bit harder to get moving. The bad thing with this one was the fuel economy. The mpg was almost the same as 50i without getting all that power. Hwy mpg was better than 50, but the car still felt meh... 50i was a beast. It moved, but was very thirsty. At hwy cruising, it was decent mpg. However, reliability of that engine was questionable. 35d feels like a perfect balance. Huge tq without mpg penalty. Performance wise, D has almost same 0-30mph acceleration as 50i. It checks all the boxes. With having any work done on the diesel, you will be paying "diesel tax". For example: BMW value service, dealerships charge $199 for diesel oil change, while charging only $79 for gasoline variants. If you are doing the service your self, then the cost will be the same (~$60). It's stupid, but their excuse is: "It's a diesel. It's more complicated." I love my diesel. I traded in mk7 GTI for this thing. X5d gets better MPG on my daily commute than GTI. All my issues I had so far with the car have been due to me being anal and willing to push the limit of the warranty to get things my way. On my e92 I ended up with a brand new transmission and clutch just as the warranty was expiring. Fresh clutch at 50k miles, for piece of mind for next 100k. My advice to you would be to drive both. People who usually buy diesel tend to drive more miles and / or tow. If you will be putting only 8k miles a year, then get 35i. if more than 12k, then you can consider diesel. See what you like and evaluate what you will use it for. |
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09-24-2018, 07:24 AM | #9 | |
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Is it possible that the extra $$ for the diesel oil change is because they add DEF fluid at every oil change? Usually 2 bottles or so at about $35 to $45 per bottle plus some labour. |
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09-24-2018, 09:14 AM | #10 | |
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However, on promotions (value coupons), they do not mention that the DEF is included. Btw. DEF at walmart (I think it's the same kind what BMW uses) is $12 per 2.5 gallons (or ~$5 per gallon). You can find it even cheaper at some high volume truck stations (~$3-$4). |
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09-24-2018, 09:19 AM | #11 |
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Technically - yes, although obviously the cost of DEF itself is negligible. However, they could offer 'just oil change' for $80-100 that I'd gladly pay. But I suspect the primary purpose of $79 oil changes is to make people visit their showrooms (and/or sell extra services, obviously), and likely the diesel crowd isn't big enough nor cross ships often since the diesel selection is rather limited.
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04-03-2019, 02:43 PM | #12 |
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Well, after quite a bit of searching I ended up with what I believe is a unicorn: a 2015 35d M sport with DHP, Cold Weather, Comfort Seats, Night Vision, LED headlights, Ceramic Controls, B&O Sound, DA, DA+, PA, leather dash, HUD, rear comfort seats, etc.
I have the full BMW service history, and a PPI came back clean. I'll try to post some pictures ASAP Now I'm looking at coding and mods. Any recommendations, especially for the 35d? |
04-03-2019, 02:59 PM | #13 |
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Congrats! You will love it! Racechip Black GTS is a good start. Get the Bimmercode app and code all the cool stuff as described int the "Coding the easy way" thread. Depending on what state you are in emissions wise, consider ABC deletes (do a search, Mr Tookies has a great thread on this).
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04-03-2019, 03:07 PM | #14 | |
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04-03-2019, 03:15 PM | #15 | |
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04-03-2019, 03:27 PM | #16 | |
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I was going to say if you want Night Vision, you'll likely need to find a fully loaded one. I think NV is one of the most expensive options after DHP.
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04-03-2019, 03:40 PM | #17 | |
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Over the past few months of searching, I've come across at least a dozen 35d's w/night vision, and many with comfort seats as well. This was the only one I found with comfort seats, NV, and DHP however. |
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04-03-2019, 03:53 PM | #18 | |
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I would highly recommend DUDMD for your tune. Dmitiry is fantastic and very responsive. Feel free to PM me to discuss mods offline.. I too have DHP and NV and love them both. You will definitely enjoy these features. |
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04-03-2019, 05:12 PM | #20 | |
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04-03-2019, 06:47 PM | #21 | |
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04-24-2019, 07:40 PM | #22 |
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Sorry for the delay with the pictures, I've been busy and haven't had time to clean her up yet. Hopefully getting a full detail this weekend. So far I've fired up E-Sys and done a bunch of coding, including VLD, GFHB, and TJA (using the Quidzel module). Put 800 miles on it last weekend and averaged 30 mpg for the trip. Really impressed with the power and handling. The torque-vectoring rear diff really makes a difference! Only two issues so far Windshield wipers were smearing like crazy at the start of the drive. A thorough cleaning of the windshield and new blades took care of that. Occasionally after being parked for a few hours I'll notice the right rear suspension is deflated. As soon as the car is started it inflates and I've noticed no problems when driving. I figure it's either a small leak in the bag or fitting to the air line. Should be straightforward to replace, I've done it before on my E61. Next up will be map update, Stage 1 ECU tune (Malone or DUDMD), and brake upgrade (50i or MPBK?), along with a full fluid change (engine, transmission, transfer case, and diffs). Will try to get some better pictures up soon. Thanks again to everyone for the help and advice! |
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