[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by danallxt

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Are you sure you are not looking at water temp?
The oil temp gauge on my M240 is way to crude to determine any exact measurement, it has a 45 degree temp rang between bar scale indicators, so it's a crude guess as to what it actually is.

Oil temp will vary a lot depending upon how its driven and the conditions its driven in. My previous ride's H20 temp would stay rock steady at 210 degrees (after a very quick 1-2 mile warmup) no matter what. On the other hand the oil temp would vary a lot. It had a digital oil temp readout to the nearest 1 degree. My oil temps would vary according to ambient air temp, urban vs rural driving, and how hard i was driving and how much turbo demand i was using.

Yep, oil temps (read by JB4) definitely exceed 210, even with ZTK.

[Mike_H_]

Originally Posted by danallxt

.

Are you sure you are not looking at water temp?
The oil temp gauge on my M240 is way to crude to determine any exact measurement, it has a 45 degree temp rang between bar scale indicators, so it's a crude guess as to what it actually is.

Oil temp will vary a lot depending upon how its driven and the conditions its driven in. My previous ride's H20 temp would stay rock steady at 210 degrees (after a very quick 1-2 mile warmup) no matter what. On the other hand the oil temp would vary a lot. It had a digital oil temp readout to the nearest 1 degree. My oil temps would vary according to ambient air temp, urban vs rural driving, and how hard i was driving and how much turbo demand i was using.

You're 100% correct that the oil temp gauge in sport display doesn't have enough points to establish exact temp, 210 is my eyeball assessment for the temp of the oil.

I'll double check that I'm looking at the right temperature gauge.

[Mike_H_]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

I sure hope it budges above 210, since that’s not hot enough to evaporate condensation.

But you’re right, it manages heat extremely well.

Place a pan of with 8 ounces of water on a 120-degree heat source and go back in an hour, you'll find a bone-dry pan.

Modern cars and trucks with gasoline ICE engines are engineered to have normal operating temperatures typically between 195 to 220 degrees.

The crankcase ventilation system clears evaporated moisture, including any condensation and burns off evaporated fuel be sending it back to the combustion chamber, even on those vehicles operating at 195 degrees.

Failure to run a car long enough, often enough will cause issues, but an operating temp below 212 degrees won't.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by Mike_H_

Place a pan of with 8 ounces of water on a 120-degree heat source and go back in an hour, you'll find a bone-dry pan.

Modern cars and trucks with gasoline ICE engines are engineered to have normal operating temperatures typically between 195 to 220 degrees.

The crankcase ventilation system clears evaporated moisture, including any condensation and burns off evaporated fuel be sending it back to the combustion chamber, even on those vehicles operating at 195 degrees.

Failure to run a car long enough, often enough will cause issues, but an operating temp below 212 degrees won't.

Technically speaking, that 8 ounces of water will eventually evaporate at any temp above the water's temp.

"For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water's boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion byproduct) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings. As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, you would not want to routinely see oil temps under 200 degrees."

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/en...l-temperature/

[danallxt]

Originally Posted by Mike_H_

You're 100% correct that the oil temp gauge in sport display doesn't have enough points to establish exact temp, 210 is my eyeball assessment for the temp of the oil.

I'll double check that I'm looking at the right temperature gauge.

Make sure you check it after putting at least 10-15 miles on at highway speeds, oil takes a lot longer to come up to operating temp than does water. And yes, that gauge is good for rough estimation at best.

[Mike_H_]

Originally Posted by danallxt

Make sure you check it after putting at least 10-15 miles on at highway speeds, oil takes a lot longer to come up to operating temp than does water. And yes, that gauge is good for rough estimation at best.

I checked wearing my reading glasses and what I'm looking at is the oil temp gauge in the sport display.

However, with the readers I could see faint indicator lines centered under each number on the gauge, which I hadn't seen without the glasses.

When mine is up to temp, it's a little beyond the 210 indicator line, maybe 1/10th of the way to the next stop or 4.5 degrees, so maybe 214.5 while driving.

I haven't driven it hard for any extended period and haven't seen it rise during brief moments of spirited driving. With other performance cars I've owned, oil temp rises pretty quickly when you get on it, so it appears that the ZTK cooling package is very effective.

Can't really have the 10k oil changes BMW calls for with oil that gets hot, but I will do my own change to halve that mileage to 5k.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by Mike_H_

...Can't really have the 10k oil changes BMW calls for with oil that gets hot, but I will do my own change to halve that mileage to 5k.

I've settled on 7,500 mile OCI's. My personal opinion, and based on prior oil analysis results, 5,000 miles is a little soon with a quality synthetic oil and no track days.

[Mike_H_]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

I've settled on 7,500 mile OCI's. My personal opinion, and based on prior oil analysis results, 5,000 miles is a little soon with a quality synthetic oil and no track days.

That's about right, but with 3 changes from BMW at 10k intervals, 5k splits the difference.

[danallxt]

Can't really have the 10k oil changes BMW calls for with oil that gets hot

That's not hot, that's cool (your indicated 214 degrees). You did read xc3llr5's excellent post #26?

Actually its the opposite, if your oil does not get to hot temps often (as in short drives) you should change your oil more often. Which is one reason why BMW recommends oil changes not at just a mileage point, but also a duration (1 year). That way seldom driven or low mileage cars from short trips get taken care of also. Most modern quality oils will withstand thermal breakdown to 250 degrees and some will withstand thermal breakdown to 275 degrees and beyond. I would worry more about oil contamination from not being sufficiently heated as in predominantly short drives if that was the type of driving i did.