Time For New Shocks?

[M302_imola]

As of the past couple of weeks I've noticed my X5 hasn't felt as "planted" in turns or over bumps. Best word I can use to describe the feel of it is "floaty". 97K miles on the original OEM springs and shocks (non adaptive). This morning on my drive to work I noticed the traction control light flickering as I took a curve. I wasn't accelerating through the turn or pushing it hard. I take this same turn everyday on my way to work and this is the first time I've seen the flickering of the light. Can failing shocks alone cause this light to flicker, or do you suspect there's more to my suspension issues? Any of you higher mileage X5's had similar issues?

[CatalinP]

You can check the wear pattern of the tyres. Failing shock absorbers wear the tyres in a very specific way.

[M302_imola]

What kind of abnormal wear are we talking, and would you be able to see that wear if the shocks just starting failing?

[turboawd]

What type and size of tires you have?

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by turboawd

What type and size of tires you have?

22" style 375 reps wrapped in Atturo 295/30/R22 front & 335/25/R22 rear

I've been running this setup for close to 2 years now without any issues. I did however replace the 2 rear tires a few weeks back since they were becoming bald. Front tires have close to 50-60% tread left. Is the transfer case sensitive enough this might be my issue?

Without telling my wife about this issue she drove it this weekend, and she commented my car didn't feel very stable around some curves. She also said it felt kind of bouncy.

[scotty339]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

22" style 375 reps wrapped in Atturo 295/30/R22 front & 335/25/R22 rear

I've been running this setup for close to 2 years now without any issues. I did however replace the 2 rear tires a few weeks back since they were becoming bald. Front tires have close to 50-60% tread left. Is the transfer case sensitive enough this might be my issue?

Without telling my wife about this issue she drove it this weekend, and she commented my car didn't feel very stable around some curves. She also said it felt kind of bouncy.

100%

ATC45L transfer cases can be sensitive to tire miss-matches. To combat this, some people will replace all 4 or if say they need to replace one because of a puncture, will have it shaved down to match the tread depth of the other tires.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by scotty339

100%

ATC45L transfer cases can be sensitive to tire miss-matches. To combat this, some people will replace all 4 or if say they need to replace one because of a puncture, will have it shaved down to match the tread depth of the other tires.

That's crazy they're that sensitive, and I've never heard of someone having tires shaved down. I believe you though. Still blows my mind that we're talking a difference of not even an inch here.

I'm going to swing by my indy shop tomorrow, and let my mechanic crawl under and check to see if he sees any worn out sway bar bushings or anything that needs to be replaced. As "floaty" as the car feels I have to think there's something more than just the transfer case going on.

So around what mileage is it suggested to replace OEM shocks/struts?

I've also read that the TC can be unplugged fairly easy, and in my case a test drive would prob reveal if the issue was indeed the TC. Anyone have a diagram of video of the location of this plug? I haven't crawled under it so not sure if it's glaringly obvious.

[scotty339]

They can be finicky. I agree I don't think this should be your first place for blame. See what your Indy says and go from there.

Shocks/springs can last a while or not long depending on roads, driving style, tire choice ect. Do you have M Adapative, OEM Coilovers, Air in the rear?

The plug is easy enough to reach and enough room to use a small tool to help the tabs release and pop the connector out.

Originally Posted by M302_imola

That's crazy they're that sensitive, and I've never heard of someone having tires shaved down. I believe you though. Still blows my mind that we're talking a difference of not even an inch here.

I'm going to swing by my indy shop tomorrow, and let my mechanic crawl under and check to see if he sees any worn out sway bar bushings or anything that needs to be replaced. As "floaty" as the car feels I have to think there's something more than just the transfer case going on.

So around what mileage is it suggested to replace OEM shocks/struts?

I've also read that the TC can be unplugged fairly easy, and in my case a test drive would prob reveal if the issue was indeed the TC. Anyone have a diagram of video of the location of this plug? I haven't crawled under it so not sure if it's glaringly obvious.

[CeeTeeX5]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

That's crazy they're that sensitive, and I've never heard of someone having tires shaved down. I believe you though. Still blows my mind that we're talking a difference of not even an inch here.

I'm going to swing by my indy shop tomorrow, and let my mechanic crawl under and check to see if he sees any worn out sway bar bushings or anything that needs to be replaced. As "floaty" as the car feels I have to think there's something more than just the transfer case going on.

So around what mileage is it suggested to replace OEM shocks/struts?

I've also read that the TC can be unplugged fairly easy, and in my case a test drive would prob reveal if the issue was indeed the TC. Anyone have a diagram of video of the location of this plug? I haven't crawled under it so not sure if it's glaringly obvious.

I highly doubt the issue you're experience is related to the TC. Usually symptoms of TC issues are shuddering/binding feeling when accelerating. Sounds like a tire/suspension issue if the main symptom is the floaty feeling.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by scotty339

They can be finicky. I agree I don't think this should be your first place for blame. See what your Indy says and go from there.

Shocks/springs can last a while or not long depending on roads, driving style, tire choice ect. Do you have M Adapative, OEM Coilovers, Air in the rear?

The plug is easy enough to reach and enough room to use a small tool to help the tabs release and pop the connector out.

Appreciate the info! I know I don't have M adaptive, DHP, air in the rear. It's an xline with standard suspension.

Also, if the TC was to blame would it make a sound or be jerky? I have none of that just the traction light that has flickered a few times.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by CeeTeeX5

I highly doubt the issue you're experience is related to the TC. Usually symptoms of TC issues are shuddering/binding feeling when accelerating. Sounds like a tire/suspension issue if the main symptom is the floaty feeling.

Agree! Plus I've been hearing a thud sound coming from the front suspension when backing out of my garage latley. Strangley enough, that's the only time I hear it. Dropped my X5 off at the indy shop tonight for them to check it out in the morn. I'll keep you guys updated. Appreciate the feedback.

[M302_imola]

My indy mechanic said front struts and rear shocks are not leaking. Control arm bushings, sway bar end links and bushings all look good. I'm kind of at a lose here. Are the front struts and rear shocks tied into the stability control system electronically? Given the info above, why else would the traction control light flicker around a subtle curve when I'm not pushing the car hard? There has been no shuddering/binding feeling when accelerating so I'm doubting it's the TC.

[turboawd]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

My indy mechanic said front struts and rear shocks are not leaking. Control arm bushings, sway bar end links and bushings all look good. I'm kind of at a lose here. Are the front struts and rear shocks tied into the stability control system electronically? Given the info above, why else would the traction control light flicker around a subtle curve when I'm not pushing the car hard? There has been no shuddering/binding feeling when accelerating so I'm doubting it's the TC.

It's probably the tires slipping. And probably why it drives funny. Those are cheap tires right?

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by turboawd

It's probably the tires slipping. And probably why it drives funny. Those are cheap tires right?

I really like the tires. Cheap in price but not cheap in quality IMO. It's the same tire brand I've been running for the past 2 years so nothing different there. Just had the back two replaced is the only difference. It's been cold here but had no issues last winter with grip.

Currently running 36 PSI in the fronts and 43 PSI in the rears. Maybe I'll drop the PSI in the rears to 38 and see if there's a difference.

[CeeTeeX5]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

My indy mechanic said front struts and rear shocks are not leaking. Control arm bushings, sway bar end links and bushings all look good. I'm kind of at a lose here. Are the front struts and rear shocks tied into the stability control system electronically? Given the info above, why else would the traction control light flicker around a subtle curve when I'm not pushing the car hard? There has been no shuddering/binding feeling when accelerating so I'm doubting it's the TC.

worn out shocks may not leak as a symptom. Did he check the shock/strut mounts? Wheel bearings? These could cause the traction control issues. Suspension would still be my main focus at this point. You could also try swapping back to your stock wheels/tires and see if you still notice any issues to rule out TC issues due to wheels/tires (although I highly doubt this is the cause).

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by CeeTeeX5

worn out shocks may not leak as a symptom. Did he check the shock/strut mounts? Wheel bearings? These could cause the traction control issues. Suspension would still be my main focus at this point. You could also try swapping back to your stock wheels/tires and see if you still notice any issues to rule out TC issues due to wheels/tires (although I highly doubt this is the cause).

You make a good point with the shock/strut mounts. I'm assuming these aren't exactly easy to check though as I don't believe you can access from the hood? I think I'm going to try unplugging the TC since that's a touch easier than putting my stock wheels and tires back on.

[M302_imola]

Any negatives to unplugging the transfer case besides the obvious that it will become 2 wheel drive? Check engine lights or is acceleration impacted?

[Xstar]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

As of the past couple of weeks I've noticed my X5 hasn't felt as "planted" in turns or over bumps. Best word I can use to describe the feel of it is "floaty". 97K miles on the original OEM springs and shocks (non adaptive). This morning on my drive to work I noticed the traction control light flickering as I took a curve. I wasn't accelerating through the turn or pushing it hard. I take this same turn everyday on my way to work and this is the first time I've seen the flickering of the light. Can failing shocks alone cause this light to flicker, or do you suspect there's more to my suspension issues? Any of you higher mileage X5's had similar issues?

A floaty feel at 97k is indication your suspension is highly worn. I would recommend starting by the replacing the upper control arms. The bushings in used in OEM upper arms are too soft which gives loose steering feel even when new. Going with Meyle HD will instead of OEM replacement will make steering noticeably more responsive without any harshness. They gave a nice improvement on my 2016 X5 w/ 50k miles. All Meyle HD have a 4 year warranty and they don't list a mileage limit. To me that means they're going to last longer than OEM and other replacements (other than maybe going to polymer replacements).

Left
BMW 31126863785
Meyle HD 3160500034/HD

Right
BMW 3112686378
Meyle HD 3160500033/HD

Just a heads up if you're a do it yourselfer: the heads on bolts that come with the Meyle HD upper control arms are 15mm vs 16mm OEM. The bolts are also "normal" rather than OEM stretch type.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by Xstar

A floaty feel at 97k is indication your suspension is highly worn. I would recommend starting by the replacing the upper control arms. The bushings in used in OEM upper arms are too soft which gives loose steering feel even when new. Going with Meyle HD will instead of OEM replacement will make steering noticeably more responsive without any harshness. They gave a nice improvement on my 2016 X5 w/ 50k miles. All Meyle HD have a 4 year warranty and they don't list a mileage limit. To me that means they're going to last longer than OEM and other replacements (other than maybe going to polymer replacements).

Left
BMW 31126863785
Meyle HD 3160500034/HD

Right
BMW 3112686378
Meyle HD 3160500033/HD

Just a heads up if you're a do it yourselfer: the heads on bolts that come with the Meyle HD upper control arms are 15mm vs 16mm OEM. The bolts are also "normal" rather than OEM stretch type.

Very informative, thanks! This would be a great starting place. I'll do a bit more research on the topic, but I do value your input. Looks like parts would run me around $240 for both, which isn't horrible. I'm assuming an alignment would be required after?

Was pushing the car a bit around some curves today and no super loose feel and no flashing of the traction control. The car seems to have a mind of its' own. I did however notice how sluggish acceleration was today in the lower RPM's when ascending up a hill on the interstate. I noticed that some a week ago so I disabled my RC GTS black tune (via bluetooth) thinking it was the cause. I guess not. I'm leaning toward the transfer case caused by the deviation in the rear and front tires. FYI, spark plugs were changed this past year. I really think the next step is disconnecting the TC plug to see if that cures the lag in acceleration.

[Xstar]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

Agree! Plus I've been hearing a thud sound coming from the front suspension when backing out of my garage latley. Strangley enough, that's the only time I hear it. Dropped my X5 off at the indy shop tonight for them to check it out in the morn. I'll keep you guys updated. Appreciate the feedback.

Thud sound from front suspension indicates probably bad thrust arms (aka tension struts), particularly on a F15 approaching 100K miles. The original arm bushings may look okay buy they will be highly worn after high many miles. It's not uncommon that F15 OEM thrust arm bushings are worn out after 50k or even fewer miles, typically on vehicles with larger rims. An economical alternative solution would be replace just the bushings. For replacement bushings, I highly recommend using Meyle HD #3003112914/HD which have a 4 year warranty.

[Xstar]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

Very informative, thanks! This would be a great starting place. I'll do a bit more research on the topic, but I do value your input. Looks like parts would run me around $240 for both, which isn't horrible. I'm assuming an alignment would be required after?

Was pushing the car a bit around some curves today and no super loose feel and no flashing of the traction control. The car seems to have a mind of its' own. I did however notice how sluggish acceleration was today in the lower RPM's when ascending up a hill on the interstate. I noticed that some a week ago so I disabled my RC GTS black tune (via bluetooth) thinking it was the cause. I guess not. I'm leaning toward the transfer case caused by the deviation in the rear and front tires. FYI, spark plugs were changed this past year. I really think the next step is disconnecting the TC plug to see if that cures the lag in acceleration.

An alignment is on my to do list although I noticed no steering issues after replacing my upper control arms a few 6 weeks ago.

I presume you already replaced your TC and front diff fluids as well as the plug coils per the maintenance schedule (~60K)?

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by Xstar

Thud sound from front suspension indicates probably bad thrust arms (aka tension struts), particularly on a F15 approaching 100K miles. The original arm bushings may look okay buy they will be highly worn after high many miles. It's not uncommon that F15 OEM thrust arm bushings are worn out after 50k or even fewer miles, typically on vehicles with larger rims. An economical alternative solution would be replace just the bushings. For replacement bushings, I highly recommend using Meyle HD #3003112914/HD which have a 4 year warranty.

You'll have to excuse my lack of knowledge on suspension components. So are the tension struts (aka control arms) the same assembly as the Meyle upper control arms part numbers you provided in your prior post? I was just reading up on "Suspension Control Arm Failure Symptoms" and I've def experienced the following:

Buckling noise emanating from the suspension
Shutter or vibration coming from the steering wheel at highway speed
Wandering or pulling sensation from side to side felt on the steering wheel

Originally Posted by Xstar

An alignment is on my to do list although I noticed no steering issues after replacing my upper control arms a few 6 weeks ago.

I presume you already replaced your TC and front diff fluids as well as the plug coils per the maintenance schedule (~60K)?

So I did the spark plugs around 70K miles but bypassed both the TC and diff fluid replacement mainly due to the cost of the TC service since it requires a ISTA. My indy wanted $1000 to preform the service. I take it you replaced the upper control arms yourself? How long did the job take you?

Of topic, but are you a Mastercraft wakeboard/surf boat fan? I saw your screen name was Xstar.