01-23-2021, 02:14 AM | #23 | |
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Its usually always the lower control arms upper control arms rarely go bad but possible at 100k. As for lower control arms there are 2 in the front you have the tension strut which is the front lower forward arm then you have the wishbone which is the front lower rearward arm. If its the bushings on struts then stick with oem there only 50-60$ each also check on realoem the bushings differ based on if you have active steering or not. |
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01-23-2021, 04:58 AM | #24 | |
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#8 tension strut #9 tension strut bushing #19 upper control arm You might reconsider replacing the fluids. It is a lot cheaper having to replace the transfer case. Maybe seek out a different Indy for a better price. Try https://www.bimmershops.com It took me about 2 hours to replace the upper control arms. I used 15mm and 16mm speed wrenches which definitely helped the job go quicker. I had to detach the brake distributor for working clearance on the passenger side. Replacing the rear bolt on the driver side was challenging. In order to avoid removing the whole strut assembly I used compact spring compressors and a crow bar to finagle the bolt past an obstructing spring coil. Xstar has no particular meaning. I can barely swim let alone surf. |
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01-23-2021, 06:24 PM | #25 | |
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Did you have perform the TC fluid replacement yourself or have it done? If the later, mind sharing what you paid. Appreciate the link you provided. There's 2 shops that site suggested in my area I'm going to call and get prices for on monday. Last edited by M302_imola; 01-23-2021 at 06:27 PM.. Reason: Added last paragraph |
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01-23-2021, 08:05 PM | #26 | |
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A messed up copy-paste. The correct Meyle number for the tension strut bushing is 3146100004/HD. My Bad. I do not have active steering. I'm less than 60K and have not replaced the TC fluid yet. |
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01-23-2021, 10:27 PM | #27 | |
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https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732240 |
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01-24-2021, 09:01 AM | #28 | ||
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At 120K miles I'd be curious as to what failures you've had with the SUV as well as what preventative measures you've taken (other than the powerflex bushing replacement)? |
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01-24-2021, 09:32 PM | #29 | |
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01-25-2021, 09:41 PM | #30 |
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So I've determined the fault is coming from the passenger side front suspension. At 40mph and lower I could hear a thud sound today. Steering felt very loose around a curve and sure enough the traction control started flickering. Something is def loose! I'm thinking either a control arm bushing or strut mount. Guess I need to either have my mechanic take another look or take it to another mechanic. I'm just not sure I'll be able to diagnose it myself.
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01-29-2021, 08:34 PM | #31 |
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Just ordered new upper control arms: Left Meyle HD 3160500034/HD & Right
Meyle HD 3160500033/HD as well as the lower tension strut bushings. Hoping this fixes my issue or at least I can pin point the issue during the install. I'll update this thread after. |
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01-31-2021, 11:31 PM | #32 |
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02-21-2021, 03:15 PM | #33 | |
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02-21-2021, 05:32 PM | #34 | |
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#13 is the front lower rearward control arm aka wishbone My inlaw is a tech for BMW and when he heard the creaks he knew it was the front tension strut bushing right away. For the most part he noted if it creaks/clunks when the car is flexing, making turns, coming in/out of a driveway all within from a complete stop or at very low speeds its the tension strut bushings. If its rattling/clunking from moderate to high speeds on a straight line or over uneven pavement then its usually the wishbone. Last edited by 201; 02-21-2021 at 05:50 PM.. |
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02-21-2021, 06:17 PM | #35 |
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Recently had my thrust arm bushings replaced master techs way of diagnosing noise was taking me on a test drive to a near gas station proceeded to slowly go in and out of a inclined entrance and surely that's when the noise was consistently present.
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02-21-2021, 08:39 PM | #36 | |
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03-03-2021, 09:12 PM | #37 |
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Set out to install both upper arms and lower forward (tensioner strut) control arm bushings this sunday, and only got the passenger side bushing replaced. Took 4 hours to push old bushing out and new one in. That was using a professional press as well. Pain in the ass since the arm is cambered and not flat. If I had it to do again I'd just purchase the whole forward arm w/ bushing intact. On top of that, this was the bushing I really thought was causing the problems (loose feeling and thud sound), but after replacing the thud sound reared its' head really fast. At this point I'm really hoping it's the upper passenger side arm (wishbone) since I'll be replacing these next time my buddy is able to help. Trouble shooting can be a SOB.
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03-04-2021, 12:37 PM | #38 | |
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03-04-2021, 04:24 PM | #39 |
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Was it the lower forward arm? If you're paying a shop to do it then I'd say you're correct in it's cheaper to just replace the arm because of the added labor involved. Bushing was about 1/3 the price of a new arm, but I've learned my lesson. Pushing bushings in and out isn't fun. Just pay for the new arm w/ bushing intact.
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07-24-2021, 09:37 PM | #41 |
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Yes, finally! I ended up replacing every control on the passenger side. As luck has it, the sound wasn't cured until I changed the lower rearward control (the last of the 3 lowers I installed). Finally got it fixed though and she's quiet again
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07-27-2021, 05:00 PM | #42 |
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Have been following this thread. Nice to see the problem solved.
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07-31-2021, 09:36 PM | #43 | |
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08-02-2021, 10:36 AM | #44 |
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Actually the upper wishbone control arm wasn't my issue. I changed it preventatively on both sides as well as the passenger side lower forward arm at the same time and the squeaking was still audible. The sound wasn't cured until I later replaced the passenger side lower rearward control arm. From my research on here it rarely goes bad, but that was indeed my issue with right at 100K miles.
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