Audio systems

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by mikew2069

Is there a DIY to install an amp and sub? I'm considering rolling the dice on the JL stealthbox for the E70. I've never done audio work but I could do the install with a DIY for dummies.

Caraudiofab on YouTube has some videos that you watch to install the amp and sub. Has for the harness it's plug and play. You search for a e90/92 install video to give you an idea of what it looks like.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by trlengle

Yes, currently only using one channel. I got a great deal on the amp and sub ($400) so I went for it. No current plan for the additional channels. The sub with the HK sounds great, sub really fills out the sound... of sure I need to invest in additional speakers to use those channels. If I do anything audio related it will be to install sound deadening material.

Try going to Home Depot and put some tool box liner under your sub and it will decrease your vibrating/noise significantly and doesn't really look that bad or cost more than 10 bucks. Pic before and after.

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by Alos

Try going to Home Depot and put some tool box liner under your sub and it will decrease your vibrating/noise significantly and doesn't really look that bad or cost more than 10 bucks. Pic before and after.

Originally Posted by Alos

Try going to Home Depot and put some tool box liner under your sub and it will decrease your vibrating/noise significantly and doesn't really look that bad or cost more than 10 bucks. Pic before and after.

Did you see a noticeable difference adding tool box liner? What attributes does it have to decrease noise, etc? Did you just place on layer under sub?

[Alos]

Originally Posted by trlengle

Did you see a noticeable difference adding tool box liner? What attributes does it have to decrease noise, etc? Did you just place on layer under sub?

I think it made a reasonable difference. Less noise vibration overall. I am also running on 20in rft and I think it improved that as well. I layered the entire trunk space as you see. And I did 2 layers under the sub you have more than enough room. Also I think the base is more tight as well as the resonance. And if you cut it right all you need is one roll. I literally did it in the parking lot of Home Depot since I didn't know how much I would need.

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by Alos

I think it made a reasonable difference. Less noise vibration overall. I am also running on 20in rft and I think it improved that as well. I layered the entire trunk space as you see. And I did 2 layers under the sub you have more than enough room. Also I think the base is more tight as well as the resonance. And if you cut it right all you need is one roll. I literally did it in the parking lot of Home Depot since I didn't know how much I would need.

Originally Posted by Alos

I think it made a reasonable difference. Less noise vibration overall. I am also running on 20in rft and I think it improved that as well. I layered the entire trunk space as you see. And I did 2 layers under the sub you have more than enough room. Also I think the base is more tight as well as the resonance. And if you cut it right all you need is one roll. I literally did it in the parking lot of Home Depot since I didn't know how much I would need.

Worth a shot since it's so cheap...Sunday project just added to my list.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by Alos

I think it made a reasonable difference. Less noise vibration overall. I am also running on 20in rft and I think it improved that as well. I layered the entire trunk space as you see. And I did 2 layers under the sub you have more than enough room. Also I think the base is more tight as well as the resonance. And if you cut it right all you need is one roll. I literally did it in the parking lot of Home Depot since I didn't know how much I would need.

Also those white labels you have on the right corner either remove or reinforce with clear packing tape. Since as you saw on my pic the flap caused some noise and when I removed it aka repositioned the tag to another spot and reinforced it. Than no issue.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by trlengle

Worth a shot since it's so cheap...Sunday project just added to my list.

When you do it let me know your opinion.

[Jrunr]

So, what’s the verdict? Did it make a difference?

[trlengle]

I went to Home Depot and they did not carry in store, they carry Husky tool box liner online only or maybe just not at my location. I have not ordered yet, lost momentum. I did do some more research and found an interesting option that has mass loaded vinyl (noise barrier) and a foam decoupler. It's cheap but shipping is not, almost same as the product.

https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/n...ier/bardec.htm

The cost for the Barrier Decoupler would be $2.29/SF.

Each sheet – 24" x 54" is 9/SF

2 Sheets would be $41.22 plus shipping - $39.76 to my house in Bellevue, Wa.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by trlengle

I went to Home Depot and they did not carry in store, they carry Husky tool box liner online only or maybe just not at my location. I have not ordered yet, lost momentum. I did do some more research and found an interesting option that has mass loaded vinyl (noise barrier) and a foam decoupler. It's cheap but shipping is not, almost same as the product.

https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/n...ier/bardec.htm

The cost for the Barrier Decoupler would be $2.29/SF.

Each sheet – 24" x 54" is 9/SF

2 Sheets would be $41.22 plus shipping - $39.76 to my house in Bellevue, Wa.

I used the husky

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by CatalinP

I would start with better sound insulation rather than AMPS...

I ended up ordering https://www.amazon.com/Soundsulate-M...ds=Soundsulate

I will post results when it arrives. This will hopefully help as a sound barrier, I did not need decoupling.

[Jrunr]

Originally Posted by trlengle

I ended up ordering https://www.amazon.com/Soundsulate-M...ds=Soundsulate

I will post results when it arrives. This will hopefully help as a sound barrier, I did not need decoupling.

Just curious but, at this price, why not just use DynaMat or equivalent?

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by Jrunr

Just curious but, at this price, why not just use DynaMat or equivalent?

The MLV is what you use are a sound barrier. Dynamat is more for sound deadening, which the rattling out and reduces resinating. In sound quality comp vehicles use both. Deadener and then the MLV over it.

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by Jrunr

Just curious but, at this price, why not just use DynaMat or equivalent?

Originally Posted by Jrunr

Just curious but, at this price, why not just use DynaMat or equivalent?

Not sure what price the link stated but I got a 4x4 piece for $60 and I wanted barrier to start versus sound deadening. I also wanted to just lay a piece down versus having an adhesive layer.

[Eurogreek]

I looked at your sub setup! I love it! I just have a few questions if you don’t mind? Did you remove your spare tire to add the sub? Did you build the box or was it a pre-fab? I’ve seen those built out out a stereo shop called car toys here in Colorado. Did you cut out a hole or anything above the sub for vibration? If not, how does it sound having the rear trunk lid over the sub? Other than your sub, amp, bass knob, what else did you need/use? Lastly, I have a 18 3.5. I pretty sure I have two batteries in the back. Someone told me one controls the stop/start feature in the car.

I took it to a local car stereo shop here to get a quote for a JL sub, amp bass knob and they quoted me $4800. Of course it would have been a custom job adding the sub on the rear cubby where the fuse boxes go. $4800 seems very high.

I have a custom box with 2/8” JL subs that my wife had in her X3 that I might use. Ran with a punch amp. I took it to our box store Car Toys and they said they can install my existing setup for around $600. Obviously I loose the stealth look. They do have setups like yours that I can add where the spare tire goes, hence all my questions!

Thanks in advance!

[trlengle]

Whose set up are you referring to?

[Eurogreek]

Yours! I’m sorry for the mix up! First time posting on this site. I saw your post on page 11 and really loved it.

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by Eurogreek

I looked at your sub setup! I love it! I just have a few questions if you don’t mind? Did you remove your spare tire to add the sub? Did you build the box or was it a pre-fab? I’ve seen those built out out a stereo shop called car toys here in Colorado. Did you cut out a hole or anything above the sub for vibration? If not, how does it sound having the rear trunk lid over the sub? Other than your sub, amp, bass knob, what else did you need/use? Lastly, I have a 18 3.5. I pretty sure I have two batteries in the back. Someone told me one controls the stop/start feature in the car.

I took it to a local car stereo shop here to get a quote for a JL sub, amp bass knob and they quoted me $4800. Of course it would have been a custom job adding the sub on the rear cubby where the fuse boxes go. $4800 seems very high.

I have a custom box with 2/8” JL subs that my wife had in her X3 that I might use. Ran with a punch amp. I took it to our box store Car Toys and they said they can install my existing setup for around $600. Obviously I loose the stealth look. They do have setups like yours that I can add where the spare tire goes, hence all my questions!

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by Eurogreek

I looked at your sub setup! I love it! I just have a few questions if you don't mind? Did you remove your spare tire to add the sub? Did you build the box or was it a pre-fab? I've seen those built out out a stereo shop called car toys here in Colorado. Did you cut out a hole or anything above the sub for vibration? If not, how does it sound having the rear trunk lid over the sub? Other than your sub, amp, bass knob, what else did you need/use? Lastly, I have a 18 3.5. I pretty sure I have two batteries in the back. Someone told me one controls the stop/start feature in the car.

I took it to a local car stereo shop here to get a quote for a JL sub, amp bass knob and they quoted me $4800. Of course it would have been a custom job adding the sub on the rear cubby where the fuse boxes go. $4800 seems very high.

I have a custom box with 2/8" JL subs that my wife had in her X3 that I might use. Ran with a punch amp. I took it to our box store Car Toys and they said they can install my existing setup for around $600. Obviously I loose the stealth look. They do have setups like yours that I can add where the spare tire goes, hence all my questions!

Thanks in advance!

I did not have a spare tire but yes, the sub sits below the trunk lid where the spare would go. The area was already lined with carpet. The box is pre-built by JL, so the speaker matches the box. It fits perfect with a few inches to spare between lid. No holes cut and sounds great but if you did a custom cut out I'm sure you could get more volume but definitely not needed. I also installed a LC2i so the sub amp can connect to HK amp. I got this installed by Car Toys for $750. I brought the amp and sub which I bought for $400 on OfferUp, so all in I'm at $1150. I would definitely start browsing OfferUp/Craigslist. The stealthiness is great and I loose no cargo space.

[Jrunr]

What is the model of the Sub and the Amp you installed? Did you get a 10”, 12”, or 13” sub?

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by Jrunr

What is the model of the Sub and the Amp you installed? Did you get a 10”, 12”, or 13” sub?

Originally Posted by Jrunr

What is the model of the Sub and the Amp you installed? Did you get a 10", 12", or 13" sub?

12" sub (JL Audio CS112LG-TW3) to a JL Audio Amp (XD500/3v2.

You can just get a mono amp...I think this thread has some options.

[Eurogreek]

Do you how much that setup would have cost buying everything from car toys? Doesn’t the back rattle with the sub over the trunk cover? Why did you put the base knob in the glove rather than the arm rest compartment?
What is the purpose of the LC2i?

Thanks

[trlengle]

Originally Posted by Eurogreek

Do you how much that setup would have cost buying everything from car toys? Doesn’t the back rattle with the sub over the trunk cover? Why did you put the base knob in the glove rather than the arm rest compartment?
What is the purpose of the LC2i?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Eurogreek

Do you how much that setup would have cost buying everything from car toys? Doesn't the back rattle with the sub over the trunk cover? Why did you put the base knob in the glove rather than the arm rest compartment?
What is the purpose of the LC2i?

Thanks

Well, I just had the amp and sub which new they are probably around $1k so you should be able to get what I have for under $2k out the door.

No rattle.

I wanted knob hidden so everything kept stock look.

LC2i allows the factory amp work with the new sub amp.