The definitive "which oil" thread X5M X6M

[StatenEye]

Hi all,

After reading several threads I've come to the conclusion that there is no consensus on general oil viscosity to use. The manual says, 0w40 the inside of the hood says 0w30, Troy Jeup (a S63TU rebulder) recommends 5w50 redline discussed extensively here https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showth...1608382&page=4.

From the Manual
Viscosity grades
When selecting an engine oil, ensure that the
engine oil belongs to the viscosity grade SAE
0W-40. As an alternative, you can also use en‐
gine oil with a viscosity grade of SAE 0W-30.


I'm leaning towards 0W-40 but we need to come up with a consensus. I only drive about 1k miles a year so I do one change before the winter and one before the summer, looking to do one this weekend.

[careagax5m]

[IMG][/IMG]


This is what I found online sir.

[Bobby_Drake]

Same boat as you; after reading much of the posts on the F10 M5 forums, 0W-40 if you're in the extreme heat/cold climates. In Southern CA, 5W-40 works.

https://www.stikkitnow.com/0w30-vs-0w40-motor-oil/

As for brands, there's also no consensus. Some guys from M5 forum say less top off with Liqui Moly in between oil changes. I've personally used OEM BMW LL 0W-30 through my dealer, but will try Liqui Moly and see if can go without a top off in between oil changes (usually 5500 - 6K miles). With BMW 0W-30 oil, I top off around 4000-4500 miles after last oil change.

[notyourdadsf86]

I was told Motul 5w30 specifically for these V8's. Sorry to add to the list...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by StatenEye

Hi all,

After reading several threads I've come to the conclusion that there is no consensus on general oil viscosity to use. The manual says, 0w40 the inside of the hood says 0w30, Troy Jeup (a S63TU rebulder) recommends 5w50 redline discussed extensively here https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showth...1608382&page=4.

From the Manual
Viscosity grades
When selecting an engine oil, ensure that the
engine oil belongs to the viscosity grade SAE
0W-40. As an alternative, you can also use en‐
gine oil with a viscosity grade of SAE 0W-30.


I'm leaning towards 0W-40 but we need to come up with a consensus. I only drive about 1k miles a year so I do one change before the winter and one before the summer, looking to do one this weekend.

IMHO BMW oil recommendation is too thin for the high-temps the N63, S63 & all variants are forced to run at, influenced by the need for MPG/emissions. I switched to Liqui Moly 5-40 Leichtlauf High Tech along with adding 1.5 cans of their Mos2 Anti-Friction and never looked back.

I recently did the valve guide seals on my N63 with 150K miles on it, I removed the heads to lap the valves and decarbonize everything. Pictures below of cylinder walls, Cam journals, and Cams. Very impressed after 150K, Cylinder leak down all within 5%, Valve guides themselves felt new with no play. Below are some pictures highlighting this.

Highly recommend this oil & anti-friction combo to all except those in very cold climates. You will notice an immediate smoother idle and running engine.

[Bobby_Drake]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

IMHO BMW oil recommendation is too thin for the high-temps the N63, S63 & all variants are forced to run at, influenced by the need for MPG/emissions. I switched to Liqui Moly 5-40 Leichtlauf High Tech along with adding 1.5 cans of their Mos2 Anti-Friction and never looked back.

I recently did the valve guide seals on my N63 with 150K miles on it, I removed the heads to lap the valves and decarbonize everything. Pictures below of cylinder walls, Cam journals, and Cams. Very impressed after 150K, Cylinder leak down all within 5%, Valve guides themselves felt new with no play. Below are some pictures highlighting this.

Highly recommend this oil & anti-friction combo to all except those in very cold climates. You will notice an immediate smoother idle and running engine.

Agree.
Noticed smoother engine once I switched to Liqui Moly 5W-40 vs BMW LL 0W-30. Remains to be seen if I need to top off after 3K miles or so.

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

IMHO BMW oil recommendation is too thin for the high-temps the N63, S63 & all variants are forced to run at, influenced by the need for MPG/emissions. I switched to Liqui Moly 5-40 Leichtlauf High Tech along with adding 1.5 cans of their Mos2 Anti-Friction and never looked back.

I recently did the valve guide seals on my N63 with 150K miles on it, I removed the heads to lap the valves and decarbonize everything. Pictures below of cylinder walls, Cam journals, and Cams. Very impressed after 150K, Cylinder leak down all within 5%, Valve guides themselves felt new with no play. Below are some pictures highlighting this.

Highly recommend this oil & anti-friction combo to all except those in very cold climates. You will notice an immediate smoother idle and running engine.

Just placed and order for this. What is your oil change process?

Let car run for 5 mins, shutdown
Remove Cap from engine bay
Remove drain plug
After finishing draining, pour a half liter in and let drain to flush
Remove and change filter then reinstall
Install new plug and crush washer
Fill with 9 Quarts and anti friction fluid.
Leave 1 quart to be added if needed

[Yuille36]

This is the same issue, people has been talking about in MBWorld for there W211 E63. I have always used Mobil 1 0W-40, and currently have 92K on my E63 and 52K on my X5M. And I don't foresee me changing. As I've had great results using this oil. And I live in the Mid-Atlantic area. The big take away, is that your oil needs to flow thru your engine to lubricate vital engine parts, no matter what environment your in.

[VPM3]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

IMHO BMW oil recommendation is too thin for the high-temps the N63, S63 & all variants are forced to run at, influenced by the need for MPG/emissions. I switched to Liqui Moly 5-40 Leichtlauf High Tech along with adding 1.5 cans of their Mos2 Anti-Friction and never looked back.

I recently did the valve guide seals on my N63 with 150K miles on it, I removed the heads to lap the valves and decarbonize everything. Pictures below of cylinder walls, Cam journals, and Cams. Very impressed after 150K, Cylinder leak down all within 5%, Valve guides themselves felt new with no play. Below are some pictures highlighting this.

Highly recommend this oil & anti-friction combo to all except those in very cold climates. You will notice an immediate smoother idle and running engine.

Great info and pics! Thanks

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by Yuille36

This is the same issue, people has been talking about in MBWorld for there W211 E63. I have always used Mobil 1 0W-40, and currently have 92K on my E63 and 52K on my X5M. And I don't foresee me changing. As I've had great results using this oil. And I live in the Mid-Atlantic area. The big take away, is that your oil needs to flow thru your engine to lubricate vital engine parts, no matter what environment your in.

Yea 30w and 40w are not going to make much of a difference and both are stipulated in the manual. Winter rating of 0 vs 5 wont matter for anyone not living in the arctic. I went with 5w40 and the friction inhibitor as suggested by Sophisticated Redneck.

[Yuille36]

Thank you, as I'm new to the X5M, but had a X5 35i before. I'm currently doing my 50K services, already completed the engine coolant, brake flush and power steering flush.

[F85MTuNED]

I run 0-30 or 5-30 OEM BMW oil and from time to time if I need a quart I top off with Mobil 1 5-30 but tbh I've been thinking about changing the type of oil I use for a while and Liqui Moly was #1 on that list because I notice the guys in Europe don't run into as much issues as we do in the states.

So far I haven't really had any issues so I don't want to change something if nothing seems to be wrong but at the same time I rather change it up before anything goes wrong lol.

[Yuille36]

I certainly hear you. Do you let your car warm up a little in the winter months, before driving off? This can certainly, decrease wear issues associated during winter months.

[F85MTuNED]

Originally Posted by Yuille36

I certainly hear you. Do you let your car warm up a little in the winter months, before driving off? This can certainly, decrease wear issues associated during winter months.

I'm used to letting vehicles warm up in the winter over the years so yes I do but I was also told that I no longer have to do that with this vehicle being "Newer tech" but tbh I still let it warm up just not as long as I would normally want too.

Imo the vehicle operates better at warmer temps...which is common sense lol... sometimes I think the dealer tells you fuckery just to destroy your life indirectly all while filling their pockets 😂.

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by F85MTuNED

I'm used to letting vehicles warm up in the winter over the years so yes I do but I was also told that I no longer have to do that with this vehicle being "Newer tech" but tbh I still let it warm up just not as long as I would normally want too.

Imo the vehicle operates better at warmer temps...which is common sense lol.

Think the extensive warm up is exclusive to older carb'd cars. The A/F sensors would be wildly inaccurate when cold. So in the past, with a carburetor; warm up until the car wasn't rough idling anymore then pull away. Now with DI, it's actually recommended to drive off slowly after 20 seconds or so to heat the oil faster and diminish the time the engine cranks with lower oil temps. Our engines have the cold start option, where the engine rev higher at idle, to heat the cats, unnecessary for decatted.

[F85MTuNED]

Originally Posted by StatenEye

Think the extensive warm up is exclusive to older carb'd cars. The A/F sensors would be wildly inaccurate when cold. So in the past, with a carburetor; warm up until the car wasn't rough idling anymore then pull away. Now with DI, it's actually recommended to drive off slowly after 20 seconds or so to heat the oil faster and diminish the time the engine cranks with lower oil temps. Our engines have the cold start option, where the engine rev higher at idle, to heat the cats, unnecessary for decatted.

Yeah I'm de-catted but I left it on just for a piece of mind if you will lol. After the idle drops I usually drive off slowly I NEVER hammer it right away because I just have an old school way of thinking... "oil isn't circulating through the turbines yet" / all sorts of things that can go wrong etc etc thoughts.

I just really try to stay on top of things and give anything I own the extra TLC it deserves so in case I have to sell it one day the new owner is getting a great product. Even I annoy myself on how meticulous I can be but I like to believe it's for the better.

[Yuille36]

That is exactly what I was referring to, having the engine warm up enough so that the oil can properly circulate thru the engine. I'm only talking maybe 5 mins max, depending how cold it is. Now if it's like 17 degrees, I will let the car run until I start feeling some warmth from the heater.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by StatenEye

Just placed and order for this. What is your oil change process?

Let car run for 5 mins, shutdown
Remove Cap from engine bay
Remove drain plug
After finishing draining, pour a half liter in and let drain to flush
Remove and change filter then reinstall
Install new plug and crush washer
Fill with 9 Quarts and anti friction fluid.
Leave 1 quart to be added if needed

Pretty close to what I do, I usually let it set for a few hours with the plug out to let every drop run back down from the vanos system and cylinder heads.

I usually just do a new crush washer, new plug after every 10 or so changes.

I add the first 5 liter bottle, then 1.5 cans of the friction additive, then 3.5 more liters as the friction additive replaces 1/2 a liter.

[Franktea1$]

Originally Posted by Yuille36

This is the same issue, people has been talking about in MBWorld for there W211 E63. I have always used Mobil 1 0W-40, and currently have 92K on my E63 and 52K on my X5M. And I don't foresee me changing. As I've had great results using this oil. And I live in the Mid-Atlantic area. The big take away, is that your oil needs to flow thru your engine to lubricate vital engine parts, no matter what environment your in.

I agree best oil, I have a BMW 540 sport 280k only on this oil.
Mobil 1 0W-40

[ICBM]

I recently switched to Liqui Moly 5W-40.
Using bmw twin turbo water thin oil consumption was 1L every 1000km. Dealer said "was normal"
I now did over 2000km on Liqui Moly and oil level shows half. So much much better, I will never again use the "recommended" bmw twin turbo oil

[YvesD]

Originally Posted by ICBM

I recently switched to Liqui Moly 5W-40.
Using bmw twin turbo water thin oil consumption was 1L every 1000km. Dealer said "was normal"
I now did over 2000km on Liqui Moly and oil level shows half. So much much better, I will never again use the "recommended" bmw twin turbo oil

Why do the factory install 0-30 though if there are better options?

Surely they know best

[Yuille36]

Because thinner oil flows better thru the small passages in the engine, than a thicker weight oil. Think of it in terms of water vs maple syrup, which flows better.