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      12-14-2018, 11:52 AM   #1
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RaceChip GTS Black - X5M - Drivetrain Malfumction

Has anyone had issues with the Drivetrain Malfunction issue coming up after installing the Racechip GTS Black tune?

Everything seemed great once I installed it and while it was parked the message came up. I turned the car off and then back on and it went away. I drove it around the block and the power was way low. Parked, turned the car off then back on, and the car drove great. However, when I reached around the 5000+rpm mark, the car would almost get stuck and would power through it (in any gear).

I drove it back home and now the power is just gutless and the engine light and drivetrain malfunction error won't go away.

I read a similar issue on another thread but he ended up sending the unit back. I'd like to keep it if I can get it to work.

The installation guide I ready said side A and B were reversible, so I'm not sure if that's the culprit (if they really aren't reversible), or if I installed it incorrectly. I checked everything and it looked fine.

Any help would be great! Thanks.
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      12-14-2018, 11:59 AM   #2
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Double and triple check your installation, more than likely there is something wrong with one of the connections. I had a similar issue when I initially installed mine, turned out that one of the connectors wasn’t fully secure and would come loose while driving causing similar issues as yours. Good luck and let us know when you figure it out please.
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      12-14-2018, 01:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
Has anyone had issues with the Drivetrain Malfunction issue coming up after installing the Racechip GTS Black tune?

Everything seemed great once I installed it and while it was parked the message came up. I turned the car off and then back on and it went away. I drove it around the block and the power was way low. Parked, turned the car off then back on, and the car drove great. However, when I reached around the 5000+rpm mark, the car would almost get stuck and would power through it (in any gear).

I drove it back home and now the power is just gutless and the engine light and drivetrain malfunction error won't go away.

I read a similar issue on another thread but he ended up sending the unit back. I'd like to keep it if I can get it to work.

The installation guide I ready said side A and B were reversible, so I'm not sure if that's the culprit (if they really aren't reversible), or if I installed it incorrectly. I checked everything and it looked fine.

Any help would be great! Thanks.
Shaun, do what Violator said. Check carefully for bent pins and if you're still having trouble, install the blind plug & go for a test drive. What setting did you start out with?
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      12-14-2018, 04:09 PM   #4
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Thanks guys.

I'll triple check those. The driver's side connection is a pain in the butt to get connected the angle and connection is tricky. Also, I didn't adjust the setting at all, so it will be whatever stock setting is. I've read it's 5? I'll check that too. Should I lower that to start out?

I tried running it with the dummy plug and the check engine light was still on, so I'm thinking the issue may lie with the connection. Tonights project! lol
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      12-14-2018, 04:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
Thanks guys.

I'll triple check those. The driver's side connection is a pain in the butt to get connected the angle and connection is tricky. Also, I didn't adjust the setting at all, so it will be whatever stock setting is. I've read it's 5? I'll check that too. Should I lower that to start out?

I tried running it with the dummy plug and the check engine light was still on, so I'm thinking the issue may lie with the connection. Tonights project! lol
If/when you get it running right, start with setting 3 and work up to 7.
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      12-14-2018, 04:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
Thanks guys.

I'll triple check those. The driver's side connection is a pain in the butt to get connected the angle and connection is tricky. Also, I didn't adjust the setting at all, so it will be whatever stock setting is. I've read it's 5? I'll check that too. Should I lower that to start out?

I tried running it with the dummy plug and the check engine light was still on, so I'm thinking the issue may lie with the connection. Tonights project! lol
If the issues are the same with the dummy-plug in, then more than likely it’s a connection issue.
As to setting, my GTS Black only has; efficiency, sport and race settings, no numbers (using the app control).
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      12-14-2018, 04:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Violator View Post
If the issues are the same with the dummy-plug in, then more than likely it’s a connection issue.
As to setting, my GTS Black only has; efficiency, sport and race settings, no numbers (using the app control).
Second to this.
BTW, did you purchase it through me? If you are, PM me your serial# and I'll double check from my end also.
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      12-15-2018, 05:47 PM   #8
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Thanks guys. I worked on it last night to no avail. It seems to work fine with the dummy plug.

The check engine light continued to turn on, but after I reset the fault codes the dummy plug worked just fine, so I think the reinstallation worked.

However, right once I replace the actual tune the malfunction issue comes up....


Do I have to take apart the control unit to change the settings or how do I change it to a 3? (There's a sticker on mine that says void if removed and the sticker is covering opening the actual unit).

r33_RGSport I didn't buy it from you directly but I think it shipped from RG Sports. I'll send you that serial number.

Thanks for everyone's help. To be continued! I'd love to get it working as my neighbor just got a Porchse GT4, and I need to race him and show him up! lol
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      12-15-2018, 07:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
Thanks guys. I worked on it last night to no avail. It seems to work fine with the dummy plug.

The check engine light continued to turn on, but after I reset the fault codes the dummy plug worked just fine, so I think the reinstallation worked.

However, right once I replace the actual tune the malfunction issue comes up....


Do I have to take apart the control unit to change the settings or how do I change it to a 3? (There's a sticker on mine that says void if removed and the sticker is covering opening the actual unit).

r33_RGSport I didn't buy it from you directly but I think it shipped from RG Sports. I'll send you that serial number.

Thanks for everyone's help. To be continued! I'd love to get it working as my neighbor just got a Porchse GT4, and I need to race him and show him up! lol
Got you PM.
Yes, that is coming from me even though you bought it from another shop since they wholesale it through me.
You don't take apart the module to change the map. There are + and - buttons on the module which is to change modes.
You got the App function module, so you can use the App to change the setting also.
Now, do you mind emailing me your installation pictures.
If the harness doesn't cause error but the module does, it could be you plugged it in to a wrong sensor.
There are a few other sensors that uses the same plug.
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      12-15-2018, 09:03 PM   #10
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Here are some photos of the installation and the connections of the unit. I'm about 99% sure they are clicked in the correct way and the pins match up.

The unit matches the make/model.

This last installation I left the dummy unit in and started up the car. The check engine light is still on but the Drivetrain Malfunction message didn't come up in iDrive. Maybe that's a sign?? I'm going to drive it around a little bit more to see if the engine light will disappear. Performance seemed normal.

If that does disappear, I'll try the actual chip one more time.

Other than that, I'm not sure what else to try?
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      12-15-2018, 10:44 PM   #11
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Got your pictures. Looks pretty good.
Now, found out what's your error code from the CEL.
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      12-16-2018, 08:08 PM   #12
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any ideas?

Seeing this from somewhere;
"This 'race chip' works to a degree but is no where near what you can get with a proper remap as they are just boost pressure sensor interceptors. They also have no control over the fueling so rely on the engines protection features to stop it running too lean - the result is EGT protection can kick in and it runs very rich to try and compensate for too lean under full boost....this means that on first few runs you get a load of power but the power can fade as EGT protection will keep kicking in. Long and short of it is power gained from these things is usually inconsistent. I also worry about these things burning valves over time (again from intermittently running too lean)."
Any ideas?
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      12-18-2018, 12:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnold88 View Post
Seeing this from somewhere;
"This 'race chip' works to a degree but is no where near what you can get with a proper remap as they are just boost pressure sensor interceptors. They also have no control over the fueling so rely on the engines protection features to stop it running too lean - the result is EGT protection can kick in and it runs very rich to try and compensate for too lean under full boost....this means that on first few runs you get a load of power but the power can fade as EGT protection will keep kicking in. Long and short of it is power gained from these things is usually inconsistent. I also worry about these things burning valves over time (again from intermittently running too lean)."
Any ideas?
^^ Super interested in corroboration on if this is the case. I was led to believe this was adjusting boost, fuel, spark etc.
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      12-18-2018, 07:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPI-X5 View Post
^^ Super interested in corroboration on if this is the case. I was led to believe this was adjusting boost, fuel, spark etc.
Whoever wrote that does not understand the factory DME mapping and wideband Control. Or they are “marketing “ a flash tune.

A long, complicated story shortened :

The X5M DME is fully mapped from the factory to 23ish psi since it does not control boost by a “hard set” preset. Ie it is not set to a maximum psi. It is based on air flow modeling, so on a hot, less air density day, wot might command 18psi. Same demand on a 32F day might command 15psi.

The DME is mapped, along with the wideband, etc to adjust to those various demands.

Add any brand chip that creates an additional demand of 3psi ish and you will stay within the factory mapping. Get crazy and find one that will go 6psi and you will leave the factory map and the prior paragraph becomes somewhat truthful.
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      12-26-2018, 10:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
Here are some photos of the installation and the connections of the unit. I'm about 99% sure they are clicked in the correct way and the pins match up.

The unit matches the make/model.

This last installation I left the dummy unit in and started up the car. The check engine light is still on but the Drivetrain Malfunction message didn't come up in iDrive. Maybe that's a sign?? I'm going to drive it around a little bit more to see if the engine light will disappear. Performance seemed normal.

If that does disappear, I'll try the actual chip one more time.

Other than that, I'm not sure what else to try?
Were you able to fix the issue? How difficult was the RC GTS Black install? Thanks.
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      12-27-2018, 11:34 AM   #16
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MikeM6

I wasn't able to fix the issue. I worked with Ben at RG Sports (super helpful btw!) and with Race Chip Germany and we weren't able to diagnose the issue. For some reason, it just keeps bringing up the Drivetrain Malfunction issue. I wanted it to work, but I'll be sending it back.

As far as installation, it wasn't too difficult. Much easier than some of the other tunes I've worked on. On the 2015 X5M, it was basically pulling off the air intake and air filters, and then removing two plugs on the engine and then installing the tuner between those. At first it took me about an hour or two, but now that I've done it 5 or 6 times it is probably 30-45 minutes. The toughest part is getting the plugs inserted since you are reaching your hand into the engine and there's not a lot of room. haha I had my wife unclip and clip the plugs for me a couple of times becuase I couldn't reach them and her hands are smaller.

All the research I did made the GTS Black stand out as far as value for output.
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      12-27-2018, 12:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
MikeM6

I wasn't able to fix the issue. I worked with Ben at RG Sports (super helpful btw!) and with Race Chip Germany and we weren't able to diagnose the issue. For some reason, it just keeps bringing up the Drivetrain Malfunction issue. I wanted it to work, but I'll be sending it back.

As far as installation, it wasn't too difficult. Much easier than some of the other tunes I've worked on. On the 2015 X5M, it was basically pulling off the air intake and air filters, and then removing two plugs on the engine and then installing the tuner between those. At first it took me about an hour or two, but now that I've done it 5 or 6 times it is probably 30-45 minutes. The toughest part is getting the plugs inserted since you are reaching your hand into the engine and there's not a lot of room. haha I had my wife unclip and clip the plugs for me a couple of times becuase I couldn't reach them and her hands are smaller.

All the research I did made the GTS Black stand out as far as value for output.
I appreciate your feedback. Sorry to hear you weren't able to get the RC GTS Black to work for you. Have you decided to try a different tune?
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      12-27-2018, 02:24 PM   #18
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I have an BMS JB4 tune on my 50i and really enjoy it.

I did just install their pedal tune which is awesome, so I think I'll try that out.
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      12-27-2018, 03:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sruss2354 View Post
MikeM6

I wasn't able to fix the issue. I worked with Ben at RG Sports (super helpful btw!) and with Race Chip Germany and we weren't able to diagnose the issue. For some reason, it just keeps bringing up the Drivetrain Malfunction issue. I wanted it to work, but I'll be sending it back.

As far as installation, it wasn't too difficult. Much easier than some of the other tunes I've worked on. On the 2015 X5M, it was basically pulling off the air intake and air filters, and then removing two plugs on the engine and then installing the tuner between those. At first it took me about an hour or two, but now that I've done it 5 or 6 times it is probably 30-45 minutes. The toughest part is getting the plugs inserted since you are reaching your hand into the engine and there's not a lot of room. haha I had my wife unclip and clip the plugs for me a couple of times becuase I couldn't reach them and her hands are smaller.

All the research I did made the GTS Black stand out as far as value for output.
Sorry to hear that.
From the error messages that you pull out, those bunch of misfires gotta be something with the coil or spark plug.
Because it only happens to a few of the cylinder, not all.
If it because the tune, all of them will have misfires.

I wish you the best on your other route though.
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      12-28-2018, 03:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33_RGSport View Post
Sorry to hear that.
From the error messages that you pull out, those bunch of misfires gotta be something with the coil or spark plug.
Because it only happens to a few of the cylinder, not all.
If it because the tune, all of them will have misfires.

I wish you the best on your other route though.
If the op installs a different tune or piggy back , chances are the same error will pop up no? I would definitely replace the plugs and coils.
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      12-28-2018, 03:23 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT335xi View Post
If the op installs a different tune or piggy back , chances are the same error will pop up no? I would definitely replace the plugs and coils.
Most likely will.
My great suspicion is on the coil or spark plug.
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      12-28-2018, 09:55 PM   #22
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So you think the tune will work if those other issues are fixed? The vehicle is under factory warranty, would those be covered?
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