Audio systems

[DuSh]

Ok, so one more idea popped in my head just now. Not sure if it's true or not.

Aren't under the seats mid-subs in HK system made for those lower frequencies? I mean if I knew that HK is crossed over already and 100-200Hz are only fed to those 2 under seat mid-subs - then I can probably disconnect them and take their speaker wires to feed to l2ci and then amp/sub. In that case I'll get what I want: 100-200Hz for trunk amp/sub and the rest mid-highs on HK speakers.
However, I'm not sure if HK is crossed over like that or not? I mean it's logical to not feed tweeters and door mids lower frequencies, no?

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

I realized I might not worded my question properly. What I'm trying to find out and maybe someone can help or knows something about it - is that if there is any way to basically not feed HK speakers low frequencies - like lower than 100-200Hz so that I can crank volume up for HK speakers and they will not overdrive/distort or give muddy sound trying to reproduce lower 100-200Hz? Those 100-200Hz will be ideally used by trunk amp/sub setup instead.
I can do it in equalizer menu in head unit and remove 100-200Hz, but then in that case I suspect I won't get a signal for my trunk lc2i/amp/sub.
Any tips or ideas how to solve this?

Just simply adding a l2ci/amp/sub and leaving the rest as is - will work of course, but after I listened to a "cleaner" sound of HK speakers that they can output without 100-200Hz and with higher volume - it's hard to go back to a muddy sound.

https://www.amazon.com/BB-199-199-BA.../dp/B01BCFK268

You can add theses to the + wire on the harness that feed each door. The tweeters already has one. The wires are a standard color code. Greys is right front, whites are left front, purples are rear right, greens are left rear. These will help you.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

Ok, so one more idea popped in my head just now. Not sure if it's true or not.

Aren't under the seats mid-subs in HK system made for those lower frequencies? I mean if I knew that HK is crossed over already and 100-200Hz are only fed to those 2 under seat mid-subs - then I can probably disconnect them and take their speaker wires to feed to l2ci and then amp/sub. In that case I'll get what I want: 100-200Hz for trunk amp/sub and the rest mid-highs on HK speakers.
However, I'm not sure if HK is crossed over like that or not? I mean it's logical to not feed tweeters and door mids lower frequencies, no?

So the doors are fed a full range signal. The tweeter already has a bass blocker in line to not play low freq. the 4" speaker plays to its natural cut off. The underseat subs play around 200 and under. That signal is fine for you sub with not needing to unplug it. You do not want your sub to play anything above 100.

Since I have total control of my crossover point. This is where I set them at:
Tweeters 9k up
4" 250-9500
8" 50-300
12" 50 and under.

So adding the bass blocker to the doors will help you reduce the "muddy" sounds. As for the EQ settings, you will need to start in the middle "flat" setting. After installing everything you can change it to your liking. Everyone hears sounds differently.

[DuSh]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

https://www.amazon.com/BB-199-199-BA.../dp/B01BCFK268

You can add theses to the + wire on the harness that feed each door. The tweeters already has one. The wires are a standard color code. Greys is right front, whites are left front, purples are rear right, greens are left rear. These will help you.

This is amazing! I didn't know this kind of things existed lol. This is a solution for me! The only thing is (if I understand correctly) I'll have to do it for 4 doors and rear pillars - so 6 speakers total. I was just wondering instead of disassembling trim on all doors and rear pillars - can I just insert bass blockers at their appropriate wires - at the back where stock amp is?

I also, don't understand why BMW or HK didn't do it in the first place? This alone could improve sound noticeably.

[Jrunr]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

So the doors are fed a full range signal. The tweeter already has a bass blocker in line to not play low freq. the 4" speaker plays to its natural cut off. The underseat subs play around 200 and under. That signal is fine for you sub with not needing to unplug it. You do not want your sub to play anything above 100.

Since I have total control of my crossover point. This is where I set them at:
Tweeters 9k up
4" 250-9500
8" 50-300
12" 50 and under.

So adding the bass blocker to the doors will help you reduce the "muddy" sounds. As for the EQ settings, you will need to start in the middle "flat" setting. After installing everything you can change it to your liking. Everyone hears sounds differently.

How do you have such control over all of the x-over points? I haven't even started improving y system yet and it is already getting expensive lol

[DuSh]

Ok, so here's a wiring diagram for $50 T-harness for HK system to add a amp/sub. Am I understanding it correctly that wires coming to stock amp are from Head Unit? In that case can I just insert "bass blockers" to positive wires to all 4 door speakers + 2 on rear pillars going by that diagram?

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

This is amazing! I didn't know this kind of things existed lol. This is a solution for me! The only thing is (if I understand correctly) I'll have to do it for 4 doors and rear pillars - so 6 speakers total. I was just wondering instead of disassembling trim on all doors and rear pillars - can I just insert bass blockers at their appropriate wires - at the back where stock amp is?

I also, don't understand why BMW or HK didn't do it in the first place? This alone could improve sound noticeably.

Yes


It's slightly better speaker and a fiber optic input. The fiber optic input in the biggest differences

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by Jrunr

How do you have such control over all of the x-over points? I haven't even started improving y system yet and it is already getting expensive lol

I have a full dsp and three amps without the oem amp.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

Ok, so here's a wiring diagram for $50 T-harness for HK system to add a amp/sub. Am I understanding it correctly that wires coming to stock amp are from Head Unit? In that case can I just insert "bass blockers" to positive wires to all 4 door speakers + 2 on rear pillars going by that diagram?

No they are the wires that come from the amp to the speakers. The HK system has a fiber optic input. It is a double wire plug by itself. So yes cut the the + wires and add the bass blockers.

[DuSh]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

No they are the wires that come from the amp to the speakers. The HK system has a fiber optic input. It is a double wire plug by itself. So yes cut the the + wires and add the bass blockers.

bmwx1sq I just realized that HK already has bass blockers (or something like that) added to tweeters and since tweeters are fed with same positive cable as mids - will me adding bass blockers affect tweeters (since now each tweeter will have 2 bass blocker in series: one oem and one mine)? I just have no idea if that will affect it or not lol. Sorry if it's a dumb question.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

bmwx1sq I just realized that HK already has bass blockers (or something like that) added to tweeters and since tweeters are fed with same positive cable as mids - will me adding bass blockers affect tweeters (since now each tweeter will have 2 bass blocker in series: one oem and one mine)? I just have no idea if that will affect it or not lol. Sorry if it's a dumb question.

Yes the tweeters have one because there is only one full range signal wire to each door. Adding another one would not effect the tweeter.

[Alos]

What did you guys use to tap into with remote in wire blue. If you got the $50 harness vs the 150/175 has the line out built in?

[fbuzila]

Originally Posted by Alos

What did you guys use to tap into with remote in wire blue. If you got the $50 harness vs the 150/175 has the line out built in?

I used the power outlet in the trunk for remote wire.

[DuSh]

Ok, so to sum up: here's a poor mans estimate to improve your HK system without spending too much and without too much involvement (especially for us noobs who have hard time tackling complete overhaul of sound system).

1. $50 T-harness made for HK/7Logic that we have - to add any aftermarket amp/sub in the trunk https://technicpnp.com/product/logic...sub-t-harness/

2. $7.95 (x4 = $32) Bass Blockers to add to positive wires coming out of stock amp located in the trunk. You'll need 4 packages for all 7 mid speakers (2 front doors, 2 rear doors, 2 rear pillars and 1 center speaker on dash, but pls keep in mind you don't need to disassemble door panel or anything, it's all done at the stock amp location in the trunk). It will clean up the sound and remove "muddiness" removing lower frequencies from mid speakers - since you want bass/base to be handled by a dedicated aftermarket amp/sub you'll add https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3. $84.95 LC2i line output converter that will allow you to take a clean signal from stock amp to feed into your choice of aftermarket amp/sub in the trunk. It comes with a built-in auto-on sensor that powers amp/sub whenever it senses signal coming in. It also has additional abilities to improve bass/base signal even more, for your amp/sub https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4. $15 wiring kit 10/8 gauge, but going with a better 4 gauge will not hurt either (depending what power amp/sub you'll choose): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5. Your choice of Amp/Sub itself. This can be anywhere from a $120 12'' inch active Pioneer sub with built-in amp (350W RMS, 1300W peak) to sky high quality amp/sub combo. Entirely up to you if one wants to just add a punchy tight sub or shake other cars windows within 200ft lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total is: $295 - that will improve mids/highs (make them cleaner) and add a punchy tight sub - for that budget it's pretty descent improvement for majority of us who are not audiophiles. Add to that a good equalizer settings in the menu, a descent mp3 quality USB source input and you will have a noticeable sound improvement! Most importantly this can be done as a DIY as both stock amp and battery is in the trunk within reach and you won't need to disassemble anything or solder anything. No coding required and no speaker change required. It seems like a win-win, a nice easy-ish 3-4 hours Sunday job even for inexperienced user like me.

Thank you everyone for helping me and others to improve our knowledge and our sound system. Of course this is not as good as sound systems that some of you build with dsp and multiple amps and complete speaker overhaul etc, but it's a start for someone inexperienced like me who wants to noticeably improve sound on a budget without too much work involved.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by DuSh

Ok, so to sum up: here's a poor mans estimate to improve your HK system without spending too much and without too much involvement (especially for us noobs who have hard time tackling complete overhaul of sound system).

1. $50 T-harness made for HK/7Logic that we have - to add any aftermarket amp/sub in the trunk https://technicpnp.com/product/logic...sub-t-harness/

2. $7.95 (x3 = $24) Bass Blockers to add to positive wires coming out of stock amp located in the trunk. You'll need 3 packages for all 6 mid speakers (2 front doors, 2 rear doors and 2 rear pillars, but pls keep in mind you don't need to disassemble door panel or anything, it's all done at the stock amp location in the trunk). It will clean up the sound and remove "muddiness" removing lower frequencies from mid speakers - since you want bass/base to be handled by a dedicated aftermarket amp/sub you'll add https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

3. $84.95 LC2i line output converter that will allow you to take a clean signal from stock amp to feed into your choice of aftermarket amp/sub in the trunk. It also has additional abilities to improve bass/base signal even more, for your amp/sub https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

4. $15 wiring kit 10/8 gauge (depending what power amp/sub you'll choose): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

5. Your choice of Amp/Sub itself. This can be anywhere from a $120 12'' inch active Pioneer sub with built-in amp (350W RMS, 1300W peak) to sky high quality amp/sub combo. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

Total is: $295 - that will improve mids/highs (make them cleaner) and add a punchy tight sub - for that budget it's pretty descent improvement for majority of us who are not audiophiles. Add to that a good equalizer settings in the menu, a descent mp3 quality USB source input and you will have a noticeable sound improvement! Most importantly this can be done as a DIY as both stock amp and battery is in the trunk within reach and you won't need to disassemble anything or solder anything. No coding required and no speaker change required. It seems like a win-win, a nice easy-ish 3-4 hours Sunday job even for inexperienced user like me.

Thank you everyone for helping me and others to improve our knowledge and our sound system. Of course this is not as good as sound systems that some of you build, but it's a start for someone like me who wants to improve sound on a budget without too much work involved.

That sounds like a good list. I would recommend a bigger power wire kit. 8 gauge or 4 gauge depending on your amp wattage.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by Alos

What did you guys use to tap into with remote in wire blue. If you got the $50 harness vs the 150/175 has the line out built in?

If you get the audio control lc2i, it has a signal sensor that will send a remote turn on signal when it senses audio in.

[Jrunr]

What are the dimensions of the spare tire well that most people are putting their subs in? I am looking at the pioneer or fosgate powered subs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794XV3VN..._t3_B007AQ2W6W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W..._t1_B0794XV3VN

will they fit?

[DuSh]

Originally Posted by Jrunr

What are the dimensions of the spare tire well that most people are putting their subs in? I am looking at the pioneer or fosgate powered subs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794XV3VN..._t3_B007AQ2W6W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W..._t1_B0794XV3VN

will they fit?

I went with the first link Pioneer - you can't beat the price and I've read the reviews and people say it's a descent sub with surprisingly capable built-in Class D amp for the money.
That been said, spare tire well is huge length and width wise and will dwarf this sub and even bigger subs. However, the main issue is depth In order to be able to close the spare tire well lid - you need to stay under 9'' inches depth wise. Unfortunately both these Pioneer and Fosgate powered subs are a tad bigger by inch or two.
I'll probably just put it standing against/behind the 2nd row seats towards left side and it will barely take any space that way.
You can also just keep the lid not completely closed - it will be stuck open by 2-3 inches max - depending if you can live with it or not. Obviously if you'll need to put something heavy on top - then you can't do it.

[DuSh]

Update: just measured spare tire well and it's 32x29x9 inches - so 9'' inches is the main limitation if you want to keep everything under the lid.

[Jrunr]

Originally Posted by DuSh

Update: just measured spare tire well and it's 32x29x9 inches - so 9'' inches is the main limitation if you want to keep everything under the lid.

Then tis should work really well *albeit more expensive...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136933...112LG-TW1.html

[fbuzila]

Originally Posted by bmwx1sq

If you get the audio control lc2i, it has a signal sensor that will send a remote turn on signal when it senses audio in.

LC2i auto sense doesn't work with MOST amps (it didn't work in my case, I have H/K so I have to use the remote power from the outlet in the trunk)

[bmwx1sq]

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...S-SWX3002.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...e-R500X1D.html

These are a good cheap answer. Sonic also has a amp wiring kit package with the amp.