(100%) SA5AT ACC w/ SA5AR TJA Retrofit DIY

[SaNGRia]

Hello Guys,

I would like to start the thread of my ACC + TJA retrofit and will share all the steps here so we can have a nice DIY for this retrofit.

Project :

1) SA5AT Active Driving Assistant Plus :

a) Camera-based cruise control with braking
function (Video-ACC)
Part of SA5AT
− BMW: Selectable speed between 0 and 140 km/h,
braking to a full stop.
− Distance to a vehicle in front is maintained
(within system limits).

b) Camera-based front collision warning
Part of SA5AV, SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns about a collision with a vehicle in front.
− With an imminent warning, the braking system is
pre-pressurized.
− Speeds above 60 km/h / 35 mph.
c) Camera-based city braking function
Part of SA5AV, SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns about a vehicle ahead and brakes, after a
audible warning alert, autonomously with 4m/s² for 1.5
seconds.
− Only within speed range 5 - 60 km/h / 3 – 35 mph.
d) Camera-based person detection with city braking
function
Part of SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns, at sufficient brightness, as from approx.
10 - 60 km/h / 6 - 35 mph about a probable collision with
pedestrians and supports the driver via brake
interventions (4m/s² for 1.5 seconds) shortly before a
collision.

SA5AT also includes 5DF and 5AS option so when you do the coding 5AS and/or 5DF has to be removed from the VO after 5AT is added to VO.

5AT uses FRR-01 Short Range Radar sensor unlike the new 5AU (Active Driving Assistant Professional) with FRR-02 Long Range.

So when you search on Ebay, you can actually buy any part number with FRR-01 which came from 2013+ vehicles and you can Flash the unit after installation. It will work without an issue. Do not look for the P/N on realoem for fitment. just look for the label for FRR-01 and BE2. The most important thing you need to actually look is the other label. It has to say ARS-3B which is GEN2 FRR-01. ARS-3A is GEN1 which made for 5DF not 5AT! So this will work without an issue!

What we need to accomplish this retrofit on F85/86?

1- FRR-01 Radar
2- Bracket for the sensor (66316851998)
3- 8 pin Radar Sensor Plug (61138364624 or 61138364620) or you can search 8Pin 4F0 972 708 Auto ACC Radar module plug connector,2-1534229-2 8P car sensor plug . I bought one OEM plug one aftermarket. The reason i bought the after market was, it comes with the silicone plugs that goes behind the holes to protect from water damage.

4- If you buy the OEM plug, it will not come with the pins so you will need female pins x 4: 61131383776
5- Male pins x 4 : 61131393703
6- Ground Connector : 61138353763
7- Screws for the Radar Bracket : 07146777838 and 07146973023
8- 10 Meter CanBus Cable
9- Electrical Wire
10- 25 Ft Wire Loom Tube
11- Wiring Tape
12- Soldering Machine to add Canbus Cables to ICM and KAFAS2 Module or you can use M Connector
13- ACC Steering Buttons : 61319229485 ( I will try to run this differently and will not change the M1 and M2 buttons on the steering
14- HOD Emulator for TJA
15- Pin for the Fuse Box : 61136937069

I am still waiting couple of parts and they are somehow delayed ALOT. Sensor sitting in the same location more than 7 days. I had a bad luck with the Ebay shipping lately. But i was able to do the wiring harness today. I might just run the cable in to the cabin and do the wiring first then can remove the bumper and install the sensor and program the vehicle after.

Here is the homemade ACC Wiring Harness :





HOD :




Pin Out for the ACC Radar Plug + ICM + KAFAS2

ACC
Pin no 1 - plus F45 - fuses passenger side - Z7*1B pin no 4
Pin no 3 - S-CAN H - ICM Module A78*1B pin no 32 + KAFAS module - 12pin black A56*1B pin no 3
Pin no 6 - S-CAN L - ICM Module A78*1B pin no 33 KAFAS module - 12pin black A56*1B pin no 4
Pin no 8 - earth - earthing point next to hood's right hinge - Z10*6B

1- Bumper Removal and Radar Installation :

There are T30 bolts on the top under the hood that needs to be removed. All the 10mm bolts around the wheel arch and under the bumper needs to be removed. After that remove the wheel trims half way to access to 2 hidden T25 bolts under the wheel arch on each side which is pain in the butt to access if you are not removing the wheels like me. And it is alot harder to put them back. But what i find out easy to do is, First put all the bolts back under the bumper then it will keep the bumper connection points in place while you are trying to screw the bolts back on!

The right and left side of the bumper has wiring harness both has to be removed before drop the bumper. Also Fog light need to be removed from the harness. NIVI stays in the bumper and no need to remove the harness if you have the option like i do!

Bumper came with Accident Protection bar that already predrilled for the ACC Radar. 4 Bolts needs to be installed. 2 on the surface , 2 under the bar. The plastic cover around the ACC Radar bracket needs to be trimmed in order to install the bracket. I used dremell to cut the piece. It was pretty easy to install.

I also route the wires properly. Check out the pictures. Took me about 3 hours to do this by myself. Since i removed the bumper if you notice the left side of the radiator is silver while the right side has black plastic cover, which always bothered me. Since i was there i did paint the right side and left side with the same high temp paint to paint match. Looks great now!

One thing i noticed is i do not have SRSNVR and SRSNVL on the front. Which is short range side radars. I do have them at the rear bumper. And my vehicle equipped with SA5AS which is including Blind Spot Detection, Lane Departure Warning, Frontal Collision Warning, Pedestrian Warning with Braking, City Collision Mitigation with braking and Rear Cross Traffic Alert. Park Distance Control. So i dont think i will have any issue to activate the SA5AT with this.



2- Wiring Through Firewall

• Route the wiring harness from FRR Radar to Driver side Firewall
• Remove the Driver Footwell trim (3xT20)
• Remove the bonnet release handle with the trim behind it. (1 phillips screw)
• Lift the carpet and you will see the wiring grommet which has 2 precut area over there. Drill or use whatever will open a hole. This will be the access point of your wiring harness.
• The negative cable of the module will be installed on the ground point right before the grommet on the side of the engine bay. You wont miss it.
• KAFAS module right over OBD port area as well. With this step you will be done about 50% of the project.

The most annoying part was i couldn't remove the OBD port from the trim and that footwell trim is really on the way of everything!



KAFAS Wiring : There is 2 module side by side there. The one closer the wall is KAFAS2. A56*1B Blue 12 pin Plug. S High goes to Pin 3 and S Low goes to Pin 4



3- Arm Rest Console Removal and ICM Wiring :

Before you start this step, Make sure the main battery negative cable is disconnected, Otherwise your Airbags gonna deploy!

You will need T20-T25-T30 and 10mm socket for this part.

• Remove the plastic trim all the way back after opening the arm rest divided console. Remove the screws. Remove the bottom part rear VENT by pulling it then remove the bolts on the bottom then remove the AC controller on the rear. Disconnect all the plugs. You will see another 2 torx bolts and pull the bottom side leather trim that goes all the way front middle console. Remove the single torx screw of the frontcarpet trim all the way footwell area on each side then slide toward to front and pull since there is 2 clips which engages with the plastic of the middle console plus some rivets holding it. Engagement happens where the other carpet piece (rear). Then slide bottom rear carpet trims of the middle console toward to front they will slide and come off.
• Remove the Hex headed 10mm bolts on each side. Has several of them including in between seat to trim and at the very back next to the rear ac controller area. Also you will see T30 torx bolts that hold the armrest cabin in place on the side. Total of 4 of them (Each side has 2) Then pull up the armrest . If you have Phone charger like me the left side of the arm rest leather piece attached with clips and comes off. When you remove the leather trim you will see 2 connection one fakra one plug. Remove them!

• When you are removing the arm rest console the Cigarette lighter and USB trim might come off , simply remove the wiring and put the arm rest away.

• Remove the NBT Controller trim by pullin from the chrome trim and remove the 2 plug one for the controller one for the Side buttons.

• Remove the Shift adjustment plug (3 bar) then unscrew the PARK button trim and remove the plug, put away.

• Remove the DCT shift bolts and remove the plug (Long plug), Put away.

• Remove the bolts for the cup holder and side Top Leather trim. Leather trim comes of then you will remove the 2 piece that is under the Leather trim so you can remove the cup holder from the place. Cup holder also holds cigarette lighter and there is a plug on the passenger side. Remove it also remove the plug from its place by twisting. This will allow you to pull that connector cable from the tiny hole so you can remove the cup holder. And put away!

• There is a T30 bolt right under the front AC panel that holds the middle console construction plastic piece. Remove it and also the cable that routed for NBT controller knob and DCT and all other remove from the rivets and push them under the plastic trim so when you slide the big plastic of the middle console they will not get damage.

• You re Done with 90% if you came to this point. Then you will see plastic tubes for the rear AC Plastic Tubes. DO NOT remove anything anymore

• Use 10mm wrench and remove the ICM 4 nuts. The driver side front nut is the tricky point here since there is another module on the top. So nuts can easly comes out but when you wanna remove the ICM you will see that the bolt and the other module on the top will cause ICM to stuck. So pull the ICM up evenly from all 4 corner and push up. It will come loose.

• Remove the plug and add the S High to 32 and S Low to 33. Plug back. Install everything the way you remove.

• I routed the Canbus cables to ICM then the power cable to passenger footwell area. Then route the power cable to F42 on the fuse box since it was empty.



4- Positive cable to Fuse Box :

I had to remove the Front Fuse Box and installed the Positive cable on F42 since it was empty and came with 5amp fuse already in it. The fuse panel pin i listed with the part number did NOT fit in this fuse box. Luckily i had Fuse Box panel from E9x series. I simply removed from the fuse box and that worked well.

Removing the Fuse panel :

• Before start the process disconnect the battery negative cable.
• Remove the carbon/wood trim by pulling closer from passenger side air vent. It comes out very easy. I did not remove completely it gave me access to all bolts/screws over there. You need 7mm with T15.
• Remove the air vent. (There is a trim on the side corner on top of the air vent needs to be removed first in order to access the vent screws)
• Remove the Foot well trim by turning the 3 knobs.
• Remove the airbag bar by removing 2 T30 bolts on the side
• Remove all the bolts that is holding the glove box behind that airbag trim
• Remove the side plastic cover right next to airvent to access the plugs which connects to glove box and unplug them before attempt to remove the glove box.
• There is a T30 bolt inside of the glove box. This will be the last bolt and you are able to remove the Glove box
• You will see 3 T30 bolt holding the fuse box. Remove it
• Now you are able to access the fuse box. Add the positive cable. If your F42 is taken just tap the wire on the existing cable of F45.
• Put everything back. Then push the start button once and go to front radar sensor and listen, If you are hearing weird noises, it is working



5- TJA HOD Installation







Programming :

1- Connect vehicle with Esys, Go to Expert/Coding, read vehicle FA, save FA to File FA5AT.xlm, Edit FA5AT add 5AT and 5AR to FA and save and Activate FA (No need to write the new FA to the vehicle)
2- SVT Actual - Read ECU and save as 5AT ist.xlm
3- KIS/SVT Target and click Calculate.
4- You should now see FRR on the module tree if your wiring done correctly.
5- CODE the DSC2,EMA (4d,4e), EPS, FRR, ICM, ICM-V, KAFAS2, BDC BODY with the new FA
6- Open ISTA+ , Read the car, Delete Fault codes. It should be all set. No need Flashing. At least i didnt flash anything and ACC is accepted with F85 5AT,5AR. Just make sure if you have 5AS and 5DF, delete them and add 5AR and 5AT.
7- After that if you wanna do calibration on the FRR then you should go to ISTA+

8- I have bunch of custom codes on BDC_BODY so i did FDL Code with this :

LRE_VERBAUT ==> aktiv
HOD_VERBAUT ==> aktiv
PERSONEN_WARNUNG_STA ==> aktiv (this value was always active before 5AT and 5AR on mine)

Make sure on ICM :

C_STA_Einschraenkung : On

C_Gateway_Application ==> aktiv
C_Gateway_Diagnose ==> aktiv
C_Gateway_NetworkManagement ==> aktiv

ASCM:

Zentralsensor_Rollover_y-z_low_g ==> aktiv (It was always active on mine before 5AT&5AR)


Overwritting Speed limit :

ICM/3000/C_QalcgRel_v_Tacho_aktiv_kmh (I have Km Cluster wert value : 63 makes 99km)
ICM/3000/C_QalcgRel_v_Tacho_aktiv_mph (for the US , wert value : 3F makes 63mph)

Overwriting only Highway use to any road :

ICM/ C_STA_Einschraenkung :

keine Einschraenkung = 00

FDL coded the following parameters:
BDC : PERSONEN_WARNUNG_STA --> aktiv
ACSM: Zentralsensor_Rollover_y-z_low_g --> aktiv
ICM: C_Stauerkennung_on --> on
ICM: C_Stauassistent_Vorhanden --> aktiv
NBT EVO : ACC_SGN --> aktiv

9- If you get a new steering wheel buttons for the ACC then go to BDC_BODY or if you have SZL CAFD and edit the steering button with the option you got under : LIN_VARIANTE_MFL




Info for the steering buttons :

SLD=LIM
STA=TJA




10- If you want to start the ACC with certain distance adjust the distance from ICM : C_Abstandsstufe_init and change the default Stufe_4 to desired option.

11- For the ACC Alignment you can use a Mirror that is 100cm ≈ 40 inch from the ACC sensor. Vertically at 90 degrees. And in horizontally parallel to the car. In begin of the procedure it will ask to put a tool on wheels and measure distance. Majority of us dont have this so put on the 4 measures asked 150-180 (mm).

Then go to ISTA+ / Vehicle Management / Service Functions / Driver Assistant / Active Cruise Control / Make the Calibration. It should do the trick without using the Pro Calibration Tools!

Additionally , If you wanna activate ACC/DCC function which switches ACC to DCC anytime you want by pressing 3 sec Cruise Control Button, code this out:

C_Umschaltung_ACC_DCC ==> zugelassen

And If you want your SET button to become LIM :

ICM/ C_SLD_Funktion" ==> "aktiv"

KOMBI/ SLD_ENABLE ==> "aktiv"

And The "Res" button is now cruise control speed Set and Resume.

If you have REMALI and REMARE modules which is seat belt reeling system, You will also code this parameters on KAFAS not to get any errors regarding to pre crash sensor :

Make them all available. Some wert values shows 00, Gotta be 01.

PRE_CRASH_ON_OFF
SEND_FCW_VISIBILITY
FCW_ON_OFF
SEND_STATUS_IBRAKE
SEND_PARAM_IBRAKE

Thanks to my buddy Nguyễn for his continuous support!

I have done alot of custom flashings, programmings before come to this conclusions. At the end i realized that F85 actually accepts the ACC TJA by nature without needing F15 FA values!



This project is completed with 100% success and dedicated for the forum members!

Onur

[SYT_Shadow]

Incredible, you are the king of coding DIYs!

[SaNGRia]

Thank you bro. It might be close to your track experiences

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Incredible, you are the king of coding DIYs!

[masa52]

what about kombi ??
cars without acc from factory hasn't got kombi with that option so the TJA icon is not present

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by masa52

what about kombi ??
cars without acc from factory hasn't got kombi with that option so the TJA icon is not present

Thank you for participating! Kombi no need to be swapped to run the feature on F85/86 platform.

[spyfish007]

It looks like this is about a $600 project in parts plus time to install and knowledge of coding. Does that sound about right? Thank you for sharing!

[blue dragon]

Hey, it looks like we are doing this at the same time

https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ostcount=11880

Thanks for contributing unlike that other DB who was just interested in generating sales leads.
Was going to remove the center console today, but my wire from Amazon hasn't showed up. I'm just going to twist my own S_CAN wire with a drill

Also, does the glove box need to come out to release and get to the back of the passenger side fuse box

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by spyfish007

It looks like this is about a $600 project in parts plus time to install and knowledge of coding. Does that sound about right? Thank you for sharing!

I always get the best deals. To me about $300 But i do have 5AS already in the vehicle with 5DP so makes the cost alot less than what it would be without!

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

Hey, it looks like we are doing this at the same time

https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ostcount=11880

Thanks for contributing unlike that other DB who was just interested in generating sales leads.
Was going to remove the center console today, but my wire from Amazon hasn't showed up. I'm just going to twist my own S_CAN wire with a drill

Also, does the glove box need to come out to release and get to the back of the passenger side fuse box

Nice. Yeah i am big on making DIY Posts for the community. I dont do business out of it. Just showing the B world how i do and go from there. My main goal is to contribute to the family and i do this for years by now! I even have a IG handle just for this called @bmwdiy .

I do respect people who also try to make money out of it. No hard feelings. But no one smarter than also the one actually doing this type of jobs for money. It is all about how much time and effort you wanna put into while you are trying to live your life

As far as glovebox goes, I have been in many situation like others do alot longer way than i would. For example before me everyone in the entire world done the OEM Camera installation on E chassis with intalling the F series Trunk handle which cause them to actually cut the trunk portion to fit the F series handle while i came up with the idea and install the F camera on a Chinese handle and kept the trunk in original form unlike any other one.

So i did not attempt to do any installation on this retrofit yet but when i do, if i shortcut anything i will let everyone know. I pay the price you just get the easy pass

As far as your post goes on the other thread, did you originally had KAFAS or KAFAS2? I wonder if KAFAS2 has direct connection to the ICM with canbus while KAFAS does not? If KAFAS2 already wired to the ICM it would make this project like 2 hour job for me

[hecklestan]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Hello Guys,

I would like to start the thread of my ACC + TJA retrofit and will share all the steps here so we can have a nice DIY for this retrofit.

Project :

1) SA5AT Active Driving Assistant Plus :

a) Camera-based cruise control with braking
function (Video-ACC)
Part of SA5AT
− BMW: Selectable speed between 0 and 140 km/h,
braking to a full stop.
− Distance to a vehicle in front is maintained
(within system limits).

b) Camera-based front collision warning
Part of SA5AV, SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns about a collision with a vehicle in front.
− With an imminent warning, the braking system is
pre-pressurized.
− Speeds above 60 km/h / 35 mph.
c) Camera-based city braking function
Part of SA5AV, SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns about a vehicle ahead and brakes, after a
audible warning alert, autonomously with 4m/s² for 1.5
seconds.
− Only within speed range 5 - 60 km/h / 3 – 35 mph.
d) Camera-based person detection with city braking
function
Part of SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns, at sufficient brightness, as from approx.
10 - 60 km/h / 6 - 35 mph about a probable collision with
pedestrians and supports the driver via brake
interventions (4m/s² for 1.5 seconds) shortly before a
collision.

SA5AT also includes 5DF and 5AS option so when you do the coding 5AS and/or 5DF has to be removed from the VO after 5AT is added to VO.

5AT uses FRR-01 Short Range Radar sensor unlike the new 5AU (Active Driving Assistant Professional) with FRR-02 Long Range.

So when you search on Ebay, you can actually buy any part number with FRR-01 and you can Flash the unit after installation. It will work without an issue. Do not look for the P/N on realoem for fitment. just look for the label for FRR-01. This will work without an issue!

What we need to accomplish this retrofit on F85/86?

1- FRR-01 Radar
2- Bracket for the sensor (66316851998)
3- 8 pin Radar Sensor Plug (61138364624 or 61138364620) or you can search 8Pin 4F0 972 708 Auto ACC Radar module plug connector,2-1534229-2 8P car sensor plug . I bought one OEM plug one aftermarket. The reason i bought the after market was, it comes with the silicone plugs that goes behind the holes to protect from water damage.
Attachment 2598001
4- If you buy the OEM plug, it will not come with the pins so you will need female pins x 4: 61131383776
5- Male pins x 4 : 61131393703
6- Ground Connector : 61138353763
7- Screws for the Radar Bracket : 07146777838 and 07146973023
8- 10 Meter CanBus Cable
9- Electrical Wire
10- 25 Ft Wire Loom Tube
11- Wiring Tape
12- Soldering Machine to add Canbus Cables to ICM and KAFAS2 Module or you can use M Connector
13- ACC Steering Buttons : 61319229485 ( I will try to run this differently and will not change the M1 and M2 buttons on the steering
14- HOD Emulator for TJA
15- Pin for the Fuse Box : 61131370692

I am still waiting couple of parts and they are somehow delayed ALOT. Sensor sitting in the same location more than 7 days. I had a bad luck with the Ebay shipping lately. But i was able to do the wiring harness today. I might just run the cable in to the cabin and do the wiring first then can remove the bumper and install the sensor and program the vehicle after.

Here is the homemade ACC Wiring Harness :





HOD :




Pin Out for the ACC Radar Plug + ICM + KAFAS2

ACC
Pin no 1 - plus F45 - fuses passenger side - Z7*1B pin no 4
Pin no 3 - S-CAN H - ICM Module A78*1B pin no 32 + KAFAS module - 12pin black A56*1B pin no 3
Pin no 6 - S-CAN L - ICM Module A78*1B pin no 33 KAFAS module - 12pin black A56*1B pin no 4
Pin no 8 - earth - earthing point next to hood's right hinge - Z10*6B

This part will be continued with ;

1- Bumper Removal and Radar Installation :

2- Arm Rest Console Removal and ICM + KAFAS2 Wiring :

3- TJA HOD with ACC Controller Installation


Programming :

1- Connet vehicle with Esys, read vehicle FA, save FA to File FA5AT.xlm, Edit FA5AT add 5AT and 5AR to FA and save
2- TAL calculation with saved FA5AT and Flash ICM V5.4 and Radar-FRR in Esys.
3- After ICM Flash, VO will re-code the ICM and follow the vehicle with FA.
4- After the ICM Flash is successful, the vehicle will report many errors on the CID. Dont worry about it!
5- Open Ista + to connect the vehicle and find the ICM correction (Ista very detailed instructions), vehicle height, gyro sensor.
6- VO code ACC Module
7- After memory error correction is completed you can continue using the vehicle without an issue.
8- VO code SZL, EPS, KOMBI, BDC

FDL coded the following parameters:
BDC : PERSONEN_WARNUNG_STA --> aktiv
ACSM: Zentralsensor_Rollover_y-z_low_g --> aktiv
ICM: C_Stauerkennung_on --> on
ICM: C_Stauassistent_Vorhanden --> aktiv

9- VO Code: 5AR

10- For the ACC Alignment you can use a Mirror that is 100cm ≈ 40 inch from the ACC sensor. Vertically at 90 degrees. And in horizontally parallel to the car. In begin of the procedure it will ask to put a tool on wheels and measure distance. Majority of use dont have this so put on the 4 measures asked 150-180 (mm).

Then go to ISTA+ / Vehicle Management / Service Functions / Driver Assistant / Active Cruise Control / Make the Calibration. It should do the trick without using the Pro Calibration Tools!

I will conclude the project soon and share here. So until then bear with me!

Wow, this is awesome. Thanks for the contribution.

One question always bugs me when I was doing the research on the ACC installation on M Car is how to adjust the distance? The M1/M2 button took the space on the steering… how this distance adjustment is achieved? Thanks!

[SaNGRia]

That i need to figure out Will try to find pinouts and see which wires actually activating the distance and try to rewire them on a different area without messing the most Original buttons that can ever put on an M car. So i am all about originality and dont want my steering look like regular X5 while driving an M car tbh. So once i or someone else figure out will posted here.

Originally Posted by hecklestan

Wow, this is awesome. Thanks for the contribution.

One question always bugs me when I was doing the research on the ACC installation on M Car is how to adjust the distance? The M1/M2 button took the space on the steering… how this distance adjustment is achieved? Thanks!

[masa52]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

That i need to figure out Will try to find pinouts and see which wires actually activating the distance and try to rewire them on a different area without messing the most Original buttons that can ever put on an M car. So i am all about originality and dont want my steering look like regular X5 while driving an M car tbh. So once i or someone else figure out will posted here.

pinouts doesn't help as all buttons options has the same pinouts just the difference is in coding you can code M buttons to work with acc but M1 and M2 will stop to work I dont think it will be easy case

[blue dragon]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

As far as your post goes on the other thread, did you originally had KAFAS or KAFAS2? I wonder if KAFAS2 has direct connection to the ICM with canbus while KAFAS does not? If KAFAS2 already wired to the ICM it would make this project like 2 hour job for me

It looks like the S_CAN BUS is only used for ACC, the the wiring is not already there between KAFAS and ICM. I was hoping the same thing as you, it would have been a quick retro, but the center console has to come out. I have kafas 2, my car has park assist, and Drovers assist, just missing the ACC.
For non M owners, its a good time to change the knee pads

[SaNGRia]

You are couple steps ahead of me. I did not look for this options yet but this info makes everything alot easier. Thank you for sharing buddy.

Originally Posted by masa52

pinouts doesn't help as all buttons options has the same pinouts just the difference is in coding you can code M buttons to work with acc but M1 and M2 will stop to work I dont think it will be easy case

[SaNGRia]

Well, i also have the same options as well. Did you remove the plug from the KAFAS2 to see the pins? If we need to remove the center console we will remove it. Not a BIG deal And once we remove the entire thing without breaking anything or not keeping extra few screws on a side after the job done, we can share here

Originally Posted by blue dragon

It looks like the S_CAN BUS is only used for ACC, the the wiring is not already there between KAFAS and ICM. I was hoping the same thing as you, it would have been a quick retro, but the center console has to come out. I have kafas 2, my car has park assist, and Drovers assist, just missing the ACC.
For non M owners, its a good time to change the knee pads

[masa52]

what for you want to remove centre console???
look for the diagram and all should be clear for you

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by masa52

what for you want to remove centre console???
look for the diagram and all should be clear for you

Yeap i have the same diagram. As you see here ICM and KAFAS2 gets connected thru S Can H and L from the ACC sensor, So ICM is located under the center console. And you have to reach to the ICM 32 and 33 pins in order to make the connection. If ICM already have the Pin 32 and 33 feeded then yes you dont have to remove the console you can simply find this S CAN cables thru junction box controller and tap them. But if there is no cable routed there you have to remove the console.

[masa52]

yes u are right I was thinking you meant dashboard sorry too much beers yesterday done

[SaNGRia]

I am still waiting the Radar. It stucked at Santa Clarita since April 30th 🤦🏻

[blue dragon]

I'm still waiting for cabling from Amazon Won't get here till Fri 21

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

I'm still waiting for cabling from Amazon Won't get here till Fri 21

Yeah the CanBus cables coming from China

[SaNGRia]

The Sensor i ordered got stuck at the same location and i went ahead and asked for refund. I got the money but no sensor yet. I found out because the government stimulus's paycheck is more than what they would get paid if they were going in the office so majority of people stopped working and the ones still keep working in the office trying to finish their area first and then going extra hours to deliver the packages that supposed to be delivered by the people who quit! It is a shame on Government and the USPS!