MPE DIY

[markymarc1979]

We finally had some decent weather and I was able to install my beloved MPE that's been sitting in my freezing cold garage all winter. I took some pics and decided to create the DIY. Some pics are missing so I will do my best to explain.

This really is an easy DIY with the right tools, it should take about an hour.

1) I reversed my truck on rhino ramps which greatly elevated the back end allowing more room to work. Rolled out the red carpet for my F15!




2) I used my trusty sawzall with a new metal blade to cut the pipe. This beast melts through the pipe in no time.

At this point you need to disconnect the black harness on the passenger tip that connects to the flow valve. A small thin flat head screw driver is required to loosen the clip.

Also loosen the 4 bolts holding the hangers to the chassis (2 on each side). You will need a socket set for this. Don't remove them, just loosen or the exhaust will fall on you after you finish the cut.



3) From this photo you can see where I made the cut on the stock exhaust. You need to measure twice and cut once. This is where you can make a huge mess if you cut too much pipe. Remember it's easier to cut pipe then to add more if you don't measure correctly.



4) No photos for this one. Once the stock exhaust is out, you have to transfer the rubber hangers from the stock exhaust to the MPE. They are on there tight so I used WD-40 to lube them up and a set vice grips to pry them off. Once off, attach them to the MPE in the same place.

5) Now position the main clamp into place.



5) This step may require another set of hands to hold the exhaust while you re-position the exhaust, line it up to the main clamp and re-attach the hangers. You can do it by yourself but it's awkward because of the weight and size of the MPE. You need to tighten the hanger bolts and at the same time you need to join the MPE to the main clamp. Everything comes together here.



6) Tighen and align everything and tighten down the main clamp and the 4 hanger bolts. Use a torque wrench on the main clamp if you have one. It says right on it 45nm.

7) Last step, connect the tips. This part is pretty easy and I'm sure you can figure it out. The tip slides nicely of the MPE and the supplied clamps go over top and are tightened.






The MPE sounds absolutely amazing. BMW killed it with this one. Not too loud in the cabin, but a nice growl when you're on the throttle followed by that mean "gargle" when you let off the throttle.

[Kzang]

Well done!

[Subiemmer]

nice DIY!

[Russmov]

Originally Posted by markymarc1979

We finally had some decent weather and I was able to install my beloved MPE that's been sitting in my freezing cold garage all winter. I took some pics and decided to create the DIY. Some pics are missing so I will do my best to explain.

This really is an easy DIY with the right tools, it should take about an hour.

1) I reversed my truck on rhino ramps which greatly elevated the back end allowing more room to work. Rolled out the red carpet for my F15!




2) I used my trusty sawzall with a new metal blade to cut the pipe. This beast melts through the pipe in no time.

At this point you need to disconnect the black harness on the passenger tip that connects to the flow valve. A small thin flat head screw driver is required to loosen the clip.

Also loosen the 4 bolts holding the hangers to the chassis (2 on each side). You will need a socket set for this. Don't remove them, just loosen or the exhaust will fall on you after you finish the cut.



3) From this photo you can see where I made the cut on the stock exhaust. You need to measure twice and cut once. This is where you can make a huge mess if you cut too much pipe. Remember it's easier to cut pipe then to add more if you don't measure correctly.



4) No photos for this one. Once the stock exhaust is out, you have to transfer the rubber hangers from the stock exhaust to the MPE. They are on there tight so I used WD-40 to lube them up and a set vice grips to pry them off. Once off, attach them to the MPE in the same place.

5) Now position the main clamp into place.



5) This step may require another set of hands to hold the exhaust while you re-position the exhaust, line it up to the main clamp and re-attach the hangers. You can do it by yourself but it's awkward because of the weight and size of the MPE. You need to tighten the hanger bolts and at the same time you need to join the MPE to the main clamp. Everything comes together here.



6) Tighen and align everything and tighten down the main clamp and the 4 hanger bolts. Use a torque wrench on the main clamp if you have one. It says right on it 45nm.

7) Last step, connect the tips. This part is pretty easy and I'm sure you can figure it out. The tip slides nicely of the MPE and the supplied clamps go over top and are tightened.






The MPE sounds absolutely amazing. BMW killed it with this one. Not too loud in the cabin, but a nice growl when you're on the throttle followed by that mean "gargle" when you let off the throttle.

Great write up Mark!

[Tirish1]

Is their a standard measurement you used to cut the stock muffler off ? Or did you go based off the mpe muffler?

[Breezer88]

Great job, I had no idea it was installed with clamps... It seems so simple!

[ENRIQUE HE]

Originally Posted by markymarc1979

We finally had some decent weather and I was able to install my beloved MPE that's been sitting in my freezing cold garage all winter. I took some pics and decided to create the DIY. Some pics are missing so I will do my best to explain.

This really is an easy DIY with the right tools, it should take about an hour.

1) I reversed my truck on rhino ramps which greatly elevated the back end allowing more room to work. Rolled out the red carpet for my F15!




2) I used my trusty sawzall with a new metal blade to cut the pipe. This beast melts through the pipe in no time.

At this point you need to disconnect the black harness on the passenger tip that connects to the flow valve. A small thin flat head screw driver is required to loosen the clip.

Also loosen the 4 bolts holding the hangers to the chassis (2 on each side). You will need a socket set for this. Don't remove them, just loosen or the exhaust will fall on you after you finish the cut.



3) From this photo you can see where I made the cut on the stock exhaust. You need to measure twice and cut once. This is where you can make a huge mess if you cut too much pipe. Remember it's easier to cut pipe then to add more if you don't measure correctly.



4) No photos for this one. Once the stock exhaust is out, you have to transfer the rubber hangers from the stock exhaust to the MPE. They are on there tight so I used WD-40 to lube them up and a set vice grips to pry them off. Once off, attach them to the MPE in the same place.

5) Now position the main clamp into place.



5) This step may require another set of hands to hold the exhaust while you re-position the exhaust, line it up to the main clamp and re-attach the hangers. You can do it by yourself but it's awkward because of the weight and size of the MPE. You need to tighten the hanger bolts and at the same time you need to join the MPE to the main clamp. Everything comes together here.



6) Tighen and align everything and tighten down the main clamp and the 4 hanger bolts. Use a torque wrench on the main clamp if you have one. It says right on it 45nm.

7) Last step, connect the tips. This part is pretty easy and I'm sure you can figure it out. The tip slides nicely of the MPE and the supplied clamps go over top and are tightened.






The MPE sounds absolutely amazing. BMW killed it with this one. Not too loud in the cabin, but a nice growl when you're on the throttle followed by that mean "gargle" when you let off the throttle.

Hello, i know its being time, how much does the MPE EXHAUST WEIGHT? Vs the OEM one?

[RED_Y_]

OP is banned and
Last Activity: 03-23-2019 06:48 PM