11-21-2020, 07:50 PM | #2 |
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Remove the exhaust from the cat back. Remove engine cover and heat shield covering cats behind the turbos. Remove bolts from mounting points upper and lower. Remove clamps post turbos and wiggle the cats out. I removed a transmission line on the driver's side to remove the cat as it seemed it wouldn't come out otherwise. This is what i recall from memory, I unfortunately dont have pics for you as a guideline. Good luck!
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11-22-2020, 11:05 AM | #4 |
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Ask StatenEye. He knows all about that crap.
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11-22-2020, 11:35 AM | #5 |
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If you don't want to remove the trans line you need https://tite-reach.com to remove the lower DP bracket nuts which are 10mm believe. Other wise you will have zero throw to loosen these.
From the top its all self explanatory. Get new clamps and gaskets. You need to drop the muffler onto a rolling jack and mids onto a dolly to slide the whole thing out when uninstalling and slide it all back in when reinstalling the catless. I would recommend gutting the stock pipes and going with BM3 stage 2, deleting the cold start. |
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11-23-2020, 05:58 AM | #6 |
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Thanks for the info guys.. I already went with vrsf catless couldn't go wrong with price but if I do get wg rattle i'll be swapping back to gutted stocks and as for tool I planned on getting custom from arcade tunes with Dyno.. is it worth to have the bm3 with custom tune?
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11-27-2020, 10:06 AM | #7 | |
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It allows you to datalog, switch maps even back to stock, no need for custom tune with their 660whp map on 93 unless you want something more & that's likely not safe on 93. Adam X3M40i
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12-26-2020, 07:48 AM | #8 |
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What's up guys hope everyone had good Xmas.. was going to try install these pipes today in garage and wanted bit more advice.. question is why did u have to take down exhaust? I did my buddy's f10 m5 and did everything from top and I would imagine it's same set up..
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12-26-2020, 11:10 AM | #9 | |
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If I was performing the job by myself I would probably remove the exhaust due to the fact when you leave the exhaust on at times you may need it to be shifted and if you were doing the job with two or three people it becomes easier for another guy to shift the exhaust if you need to gain a little bit of spacing.
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12-26-2020, 11:47 AM | #10 |
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I have access to a friends lift so that's what I was going to wait for but I have zero patience and woke up today thinking I was going to just be able to do everything from up top like the m5 but stateneye stated there were some mounting bolts that have to be taken off from below so I guess I'll be waiting for my buddy to have some free time to lend me lift.. I don't wanna start in my garage then get stuck lol thanks for the input
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12-26-2020, 01:24 PM | #11 | |
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12-26-2020, 01:29 PM | #12 |
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Yep I searched for stock pipe pic n found one and I see the bracket he's talking bout that is a pita but it looks like same situation as the e70 x5m and I did my 2013 x5m in 3 hours while drinking lol so hopefully it's not as bad but Im deff not doing on floor
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12-29-2020, 09:02 PM | #14 |
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Did mine today. Wasn't to bad. Ran a long extension to get the bolts off the driver side. There is what I call hidden brackets on both sides driver and passenger. The downpipes only come out the top only. you will need to remove the whole exhaust. The driver side is going to make you re think you whole existence. Oh and I did it without a lift. Have fun and good luck
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12-29-2020, 10:02 PM | #15 |
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Welp my buddy has covid so shop is closed so looks like if I want it done I need to do it in garage on floor.. next question is how'd u lift truck? Two jacks? I have 3/8- 1/4 long extensions and swivel joints but do u recommend other special tool that's help? Thanks again guys any info helps
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01-02-2021, 03:01 PM | #16 |
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Welp there in with the bm3 stage 2 93 map.. what a difference.. the stage 2 agg map is way to poppy for me..
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01-02-2021, 06:41 PM | #17 | ||
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I probably did it in the most unsafe manner lol. I jacked the passenger side at the front only using just the floor jack. You will need a e torx bit set. I have a 100+ different bits in mine I believe for the drive side downpipe bracket I used a really long 1/4 extension. hope that helps |
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01-02-2021, 08:17 PM | #18 |
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I think both brackets on both side were very easy to reach i used a 10mm with swivel and 12 in extension.. the biggest headache was getting the drivers side out lol I literally forced it out.. otherwise top was straight foward and wasn't that bad.. deff doable on floor but f I would've had t on lift it would've took half the time..
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04-02-2021, 11:01 PM | #19 | |
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Did you top up the trans fluid? I lost maybe 50-100ml of fluid. And not sure if I should top up or not. Cheers |
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05-15-2021, 03:25 PM | #20 |
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I’m in the middle of installing the VRSF DP’s, and having a bit of a hard time getting the driver’s side out. It does look like the tranny line is in the way and quite a pita to get around. Any tips and tricks you guys can give on getting the driver’s side stock DP out? Much appreciated.
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05-15-2021, 04:14 PM | #21 | |
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As mentioned above, if you don't want to pull the transmission lines to get to the two 10mm nuts holding the stock exhaust bracket on, I used a combination of long ratchet extensions, universal joints, and enough profanity to make a sailor blush....it can be done, just a pain in the ass. Also when you are bolting on the pipes, leave everything else finger tight until you have the turbo to downpipe clamp fitted properly and tightened down first, then tighten everything else. |
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05-15-2021, 07:30 PM | #22 |
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Lol I forced mine out and thanked god I didn't break anything.. the right way to do it is to remove trans line or bracket but u could get it out without removing either.. once that's out everything else is easy..good luck and it's deff worth the work
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