Rod bearings change

[Ionutz009]

Hello guys,

I’m wondering if i should prevent and change the rod bearings for my 2016 x5m. Do you know if that engine has commun issue with the RB or this is not necessary. Also when should i change the timing chain kit on that engine?

Thank you very much for your help!

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Ionutz009

Hello guys,

I’m wondering if i should prevent and change the rod bearings for my 2016 x5m. Do you know if that engine has commun issue with the RB or this is not necessary. Also when should i change the timing chain kit on that engine?

Thank you very much for your help!

Other people on here probably know more about this. But I was told by my dealer's service team leader that the rod bearings shouldn't be a concern, that there aren't any known issues etc.

For what it's worth... Following to learn as well.

[sly1types]

There have been some local S63s that have blown up. I just hit 50k and will be doing oil samples. Just sent one off last week. If it comes back questionable I will get them done.

[Garcia_f24]

Originally Posted by sly1types

There have been some local S63s that have blown up. I just hit 50k and will be doing oil samples. Just sent one off last week. If it comes back questionable I will get them done.

is this "oil samples" done at a bmw dealership? I've been wondering whether or not to have mine changed.

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by Garcia_f24

is this "oil samples" done at a bmw dealership? I've been wondering whether or not to have mine changed.

It's through blackstone laboratories. I have used them a decent amount with my other cars.

I'm going to see what they say, but when my aluminum gets to 10ppm or more I will have them changed. My local BMW race shop said it's around $4k out the door. My wife loves this car so we are going to keep for a while.

$4k is a lot cheaper than $20k…

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

[secretariat]

How many miles on the 2016 X5M to worry about rod bearings being replaced?

[JRock80]

Originally Posted by Ionutz009

Hello guys,

I’m wondering if i should prevent and change the rod bearings for my 2016 x5m. Do you know if that engine has commun issue with the RB or this is not necessary. Also when should i change the timing chain kit on that engine?

Thank you very much for your help!

Interesting, not sure I've heard anyone complaining or ran into issues with Rod Bearings on the S63tu platforms.

You can always message a trusted engine builder, like RK Autowerke for example.

[sly1types]

Here is my first sample.

[Ionutz009]

I have decided to change my rod bearings. i ordered the ACL rod bearings. i will do it by myself. if someone have some instructions about that, i will check the ISTA if is there something. i am looking for the oil pan and rod bolts torque specs. i couldn’t find anything yet on the internet about that. If you have any tips for me i will much appreciate. i will try to make as much as i can photos of the entire work, to maybe make a DIY. I also ordered new oil pan bolts and new rod bolts.
Thank you guys!

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by Ionutz009

I have decided to change my rod bearings. i ordered the ACL rod bearings. i will do it by myself. if someone have some instructions about that, i will check the ISTA if is there something. i am looking for the oil pan and rod bolts torque specs. i couldn’t find anything yet on the internet about that. If you have any tips for me i will much appreciate. i will try to make as much as i can photos of the entire work, to maybe make a DIY. I also ordered new oil pan bolts and new rod bolts.
Thank you guys!

Awesome i would love to see what they look like. Seems like there are less issues on the X5M, but still some rod bearing issues out there.

[Ionutz009]

I’m afraid to lose the engine that’s why i’m doing it. i found some very small metal shavings last week when i did the oil change. there wasn’t a lot but enough to make me not sleep well . the oil analysis are very difficult to do it in my country, i couldn’t find a company to do it (Luxembourg). But i think by changing them as a prevention, will not do anything bad.

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by sly1types

Here is my first sample.

I did send BlackStone a follow up email and they said some of the older models were lead and thought the newer ones are indeed aluminum/copper.

[Ionutz009]

Could someone help me to understand the rod bolts torque table?
I can’t understand what should i choose 1AZ or 2AZ. when they say loosen screw 180• they mean to unscrew the bolt by 180 degrees? and the last loosen screw doesn’t says the degrees.
Please someone help me to understand it. Thank you very much!

[M_Bimmer]

@ Ionutz009,

To answer your question:

Procedure 11 24, 1AZ torque procedure is if you are replacing the piston connecting rod AND using a new connecting rod bolt.

Procedure 11 24, 2AZ torque procedure is if you are only using a new connecting rod bolt.

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by sly1types

$4k is a lot cheaper than $20k…

Mind sharing where you found a "new" S63B44B installed for $20K? (your comparison of $4k, which is inclusive of parts & labor, to $20K for a new engine, which should also include parts & labor, would be an apples-to-apples pricing comparison)

Even if this is just the "short" engine from BMW, $20K would still be a good price.

Most would end up paying closer to $40K after all is said and done (all new hardware, seals and other misc parts, but mostly labor, and tax)......so your $4k (I assume includes labor, since parts only run $300-$400) of preventative maintenance on new main bearings, would be an even better deal......

[Ionutz009]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

@ Ionutz009,

The 11-24 torque table you posted is for plastigage type PG1 torque step from the 11-24-571 procedure, which is merely determining connecting-rod bearing play....and is not the torque values to use when doing the final assembly of end cap to connecting rod final reassembly. These torque values are found in torque table 11-11.

But to answer your question:

Procedure 11 24, 1AZ torque procedure is if you are replacing the piston connecting rod AND using a new connecting rod bolt.

Procedure 11 24, 2AZ torque procedure is if you are only using a new connecting rod bolt.

I couldn't find anything about rod bolts at 1111. Please see attached file. Thank you!

[Ionutz009]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

@ Ionutz009,

The 11-24 torque table you posted is for plastigage type PG1 torque step from the 11-24-571 procedure, which is merely determining connecting-rod bearing play....and is not the torque values to use when doing the final assembly of end cap to connecting rod final reassembly. These torque values are found in torque table 11-11.

But to answer your question:

Procedure 11 24, 1AZ torque procedure is if you are replacing the piston connecting rod AND using a new connecting rod bolt.

Procedure 11 24, 2AZ torque procedure is if you are only using a new connecting rod bolt.

I can see that on the instruction page of replacing rod bearings they are using the same torque table for both plastigauge and final assembly. Also for the table at the 15th step there is no degrees for the loosen screw.

Thank you very much for all your help!

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Ionutz009

I can see that on the instruction page of replacing rod bearings they are using the same torque table for both plastigauge and final assembly. Also for the table at the 15th step there is no degrees for the loosen screw.

Thank you very much for all your help!

Attachment 2826714

My apology...I edited my post....those are the final torque specs too for the connecting rods...the 11-11 torque table only has the bearing caps to the crank case...I corrected my original post....

I've got 9,890 miles on my S63B44B, and plan to do the bearing replacements shortly myself....will be pulling the bottom end to get the codes for the bearings....yes, it's ticking on the lower rear end.

When you do yours, can you post pics of the old bearings?

[LOW4LYF]

Please stop this before everyone freaks out.

There is no road bearings issues on this platform.

[Ionutz009]

Originally Posted by LOW4LYF

Please stop this before everyone freaks out.

There is no road bearings issues on this platform.

And if i let like that and after some miles my engine will break what i can do then? i will do it and we all can see if there is any issue on that engine, this is not to freak out someone but we already saw cases with rod bearings issues on this platform. Plus, i found metal shavings in the oil, no way i will take any risk to not doing it.

[Ionutz009]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

My apology...I edited my post....those are the final torque specs too for the connecting rods...the 11-11 torque table only has the bearing caps to the crank case...I corrected my original post....

I've got 9,890 miles on my S63B44B, and plan to do the bearing replacements shortly myself....will be pulling the bottom end to get the codes for the bearings....yes, it's ticking on the lower rear end.

When you do yours, can you post pics of the old bearings?

Do you also know the answer for the 15th step? what would be the loosening degrees? Thank you!

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Mind sharing where you found a "new" S63B44B installed for $20K? (your comparison of $4k, which is inclusive of parts & labor, to $20K for a new engine, which should also include parts & labor, would be an apples-to-apples pricing comparison)

Even if this is just the "short" engine from BMW, $20K would still be a good price.

Most would end up paying closer to $40K after all is said and done (all new hardware, seals and other misc parts, but mostly labor, and tax)......so your $4k (I assume includes labor, since parts only run $300-$400) of preventative maintenance on new main bearings, would be an even better deal......

$4k is the quote from my local BMW Indy shop. The $20k is for them to do a RK autowerks engine, they even come with a warranty.