Bought a cpo 2014 x5 and what a headache

[X5Guy]

Gtrsam..so they covered yours under cpo warranty?

I wouldn't know which non oem brand to even go with. I do wonder if the new control arms they are installing for you guys are gonna last any longer than the ones being replaced.

[gtrsam]

Originally Posted by X5Guy

Gtrsam..so they covered yours under cpo warranty?

I wouldn't know which non oem brand to even go with. I do wonder if the new control arms they are installing for you guys are gonna last any longer than the ones being replaced.

They fixed mine under "goodwill" because it happened literally a week after getting the car. It was not covered under cpo warranty because it is considered a wear and tear item. I know this because I tried taking it to a different dealer than where I bought the car since it was closer to me. They told me it wasn't covered and to take it back to the dealer I bought it at.

[DuSh]

The symptoms described are painfully sounding like a ball-joint knock over bumps etc. That is indeed a wear and tear item - depending on how X5 was used (all it takes really is to hit couple of good potholes on highway speeds and say buy-buy to ball joints). Bent control arm is a rare situation and usually indicates someone hit the curb to bent it.

Lower front control arms do come together with ball joints as an assembly. So it's a matter of swapping them and be done. Prices start at $50 per control arm and up to $130 for a "professional" grade one (whatever that means) for aftermarket ones. OEm costs $300 each. To swap them labor is about $250 (plus alignment on top of that). https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...trol+arm,10401

I can see the frustration, but my 2014 X5 has no issues (knock on the woods), maybe a bad batch? In any case for future readers - swap them for new ones and be done. OEM control arm is preferred, but if money is an issue - just go with aftermarket - it's just a control arm. Chances are you won't need to change it ever again.

[HydroStream6]

So my X5 makes this similar sounding creak over bumps and even while just driving down the road, at low speed. But is more pronounced over bumps. But I also hear a very similar if not the same creak on cold start while just idling, not even moving. Does anyone else have that symptom? I don't know if maybe it's a motor or trans mount. 2014 50i. Thanks!

[P1]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

So my X5 makes this similar sounding creak over bumps and even while just driving down the road, at low speed. But is more pronounced over bumps. But I also hear a very similar if not the same creak on cold start while just idling, not even moving. Does anyone else have that symptom? I don't know if maybe it's a motor or trans mount. 2014 50i. Thanks!

Likely the control arms. If you're under warranty, you're in good shape. If not, it's $1,400 a side if I remember correctly.

[smyles]

$1,400??

~$500 for a pair of OEMs and and hour of wrenching.

[HydroStream6]

Aftermarket parts are about $60ea and I can do the labor, no problem. Just not sure what the creak noise is at idle without moving. It's odd.

[smyles]

Actually, in case of control arms I'd stick with OEMs. Comes from my experience with aftermarkets on E70, where after multiple replacements I've mastered the swap to like 'while the dinner is warming up'.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

Aftermarket parts are about $60ea and I can do the labor, no problem. Just not sure what the creak noise is at idle without moving. It's odd.

Don't cheap out on the control arms...not saying you need oem but $60 is about as cheapo as it gets. And you'll be back complaining sooner than later.

[HydroStream6]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Don't cheap out on the control arms...not saying you need oem but $60 is about as cheapo as it gets. And you'll be back complaining sooner than later.

Beck Arnley is a great brand from my experience and they have a 50k mile warranty. About the same as the BMW ones last haha. I'll report back how the install goes, they'll be here Wednesday.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

Beck Arnley is a great brand from my experience and they have a 50k mile warranty. About the same as the BMW ones last haha. I'll report back how the install goes, they'll be here Wednesday.

Also take note that beck/arnley has two different levels of quality and you are buying the cheap one. That's all I meant. Same brand just cheaper version. My guess is cheap bushings. Cuz they're half the price of their higher quality version.

Also that warranty is only for defects if you read it. Guarantee that won't cover those cheap bushings when they wear out.

[smyles]

My guess the cheaper ones have simple rubber bushings.

[Cheche]

In my experience the warranty game is overrated. I got a 16’ 35d for roughly 50% of a new one, in pretty good shape, so budget for repairs can be squeezed in the equation. When I got it the dealer “discounted” the extended warranty for 3 years to $3000, they were so pushy that I finally caved in only knowing that I could cancel it within 60 days after the purchase. After a quick research On the company I cancelled the policy. People complained that they would make excuses not to cover repairs.

If the dealer is making money on it, and obviously the warranty company as well, the chances are on their side. So I figured if there is something wrong with the used car I still have a few months to pick it up, and then I will take my chances.

Besides, I like to modify them so there goes my warranty anyway

[-c-]

Originally Posted by Cheche

In my experience the warranty game is overrated. I got a 16' 35d for roughly 50% of a new one, in pretty good shape, so budget for repairs can be squeezed in the equation. When I got it the dealer "discounted" the extended warranty for 3 years to $3000, they were so pushy that I finally caved in only knowing that I could cancel it within 60 days after the purchase. After a quick research On the company I cancelled the policy. People complained that they would make excuses not to cover repairs.

If the dealer is making money on it, and obviously the warranty company as well, the chances are on their side. So I figured if there is something wrong with the used car I still have a few months to pick it up, and then I will take my chances.

Besides, I like to modify them so there goes my warranty anyway

In my case it covered a new engine which is over 20k and their was no signs of misuse and even came in for early oil changes.

Sometimes ya never know. Roll of the dice definitely but I know what your saying.

[DonJuan]

Originally Posted by P1et

Likely the control arms. If you're under warranty, you're in good shape. If not, it's $1,400 a side if I remember correctly.

No, $1400 would be both sides and an alignment. Mine just failed at 56k miles.

[HydroStream6]

Regardless of the aftermarket options, stock OEM control arms should not need replacing at 50k miles, no matter what brand of vehicle. It's absurd. If these $60 aftermarket arms last even half as long as the OEMs, it's worth it given the price difference. I'll report back how the install goes.

[DonJuan]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

stock OEM control arms should not need replacing at 50k miles, no matter what brand of vehicle.

True!

[NYC_X5]

Sorry to revive old thread, didn’t want to make a new one.

My ‘16 CPO had the R&L control arms replaced before purchase under SIB 31 03 17. Now 12k miles later I’m getting squeaking noise coming from both sides when going over bumps.
I thought these replacements were supposed to be an improvement?!
Still under manufacturer warranty for another month, let’s see how easy it will be to get some service done during the pandemic.

[P1]

Originally Posted by NYC_X5

Sorry to revive old thread, didn’t want to make a new one.

My ‘16 CPO had the R&L control arms replaced before purchase under SIB 31 03 17. Now 12k miles later I’m getting squeaking noise coming from both sides when going over bumps.
I thought these replacements were supposed to be an improvement?!
Still under manufacturer warranty for another month, let’s see how easy it will be to get some service done during the pandemic.

I had both of mine replaced under warranty, and then shortly after my warranty expired, one went out again. I didn't even have to make a case: my service advisor immediately rang BMW, and had it covered under goodwill. Everything has been OK in that department since then.

[quick]

CPO is really a fraud, well for the most part. Just think about it, how could these dealerships make money on selling the CPO cars, the answer is below.

1)- They pay BMW something like $1500/car to be certified which they have to make it back some how

2)- They certify the car by just filling out the paperwork as long as the brakes and other consumables are OK for the next 5-7,000 miles

3)- Certification makes the car at least $3000 costilier if not more

3)- Within few weeks/months, you are back at the dealer (more than likely not the selling dealer) with brakes or tires or other issues which they classify as wear items and not covered by CPO

4)- Now you have to pay out of pocket for those items which is more money for the dealerships, see how they made at least 5-6000 on a CPO car.


I would rather buy a low mileage, one owner car and pay bit extra knowing that it wouldn't need anything right away, get a PPI paying more attention towards the consumables like tires. alignment/brakes/suspension/electronics etc.

I then turn around and buy an aftermarket reputable good warranty. Last year I bought a 2012 X5M with 39,000 miles, bought an extended warranty and a year and half and 5000 miles later, it still drives flawless without any issues

Key to buying a headache free used car is, buy it from the first owner with low miles. Yes you'd have to pay bit more but trust me, lot less headache later on.

[iconoclast]

CPO = Customer Pays Out.

Some dealership simply "Certify" every used car without doing the work despite the "Checklist". Then nearly everything is a "Wear & Tear" item and the items covered rarely fail. You will find situations on forums where a member states many things were covered but these are typically maintenance deferred vehicles or already prone to troubles or some one-off failure. An incredibly well maintained vehicle is a better bet than a roadhog POS with CPO.