My Issues :(

opasha · 03-01-2015, 03:19 PM

Featured on BIMMERPOST.com

So, as you all know, my suspension was removed. While driving in the highest setting, I got a chassis stability malfunction. This caused the car to not turn off with two button pushes. It would actually turn back on with the second button push. The suspension is back to stock with ZERO errors in the iDrive. This is the behavior as follows:

1) When I push the start button once, it will keep radio and gps on (despite me coding the ability for the gps and radio to turn off when I open the door), and only shuts off completely when I lock the car.

2) When I have returned - I guess after 20 minutes to 1 hour, the car allows me to do one button push to turn AC Power on only and if I press it again, it turns it off (the way it should) and won't start the engine without me pressing the brake pedal.

3) When I press the brake and push the button to start the car, it will start. Even after driving about 10 miles or so and returning home just now, when I push the start/stop button once, it will shut off the engine, but when I push it a second time, it turns the engine back on without me holding the brake pedal rather than completely shutting down the car.

My attempts at a solution:

I VO Coded BDC_Body and Cleared All DTCs right after - this was done last night. So, today, those same issues persist. In order for me to shut down the car completely, I have to push button one time and then lock the car.

I have checked all the codes that deal with this function and they are in BDC_Body:

TCM_StartLock_Brake - default is aktiv - this is so that your car starts only by holding the brake pedal.

shawnsheridan and other coders/people that know cars, what should I do? Should I VO CODE EVERYTHING except DME?? My only option at this point seems like a dealer visit (a big hassle for me because I will have to take out my 6WB in order for them to properly use ISTA/P to VO Code everything) and remove my RaceChip (you know how annoying this is on the 50i).

PS: I need to do an alignment as well, and I hear a slight knocking sound of the left strut even though I saw him tighten everything. So, I will have to ask BMW to fix that as well.

And I thought I was over all my problems...

Your advice, tips, and thoughts are most appreciated everyone! Thank you!

wjbender · 03-01-2015, 03:36 PM

OK - relax and take a break. Let the car sit until tomorrow and try again fresh. You might be overlooking something simple. If the MASTER is stumped we are all in trouble!!

opasha · 03-01-2015, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wjbender

OK - relax and take a break. Let the car sit until tomorrow and try again fresh. You might be overlooking something simple. If the MASTER is stumped we are all in trouble!!

You're right, Bill

, but I'm very thorough and I was calm today when thinking of what it could be. The driving in the snow and S2=D for my RaceChip setting put a big smile on my face. I'm not in panic mode. I know a dealer visit will fix everything, lol. I might VO Code everything (BDC_Body is not the only place where similar codes exist) except DME (Shawn told me this causes CEL if you try to VO Code this - I forget why/how).

However, thanks for the reply and sound advice

. I really thank this community for its positivity. It's nice having the beast back in my garage.

cy07 · 03-01-2015, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opasha

You're right, Bill

, but I'm very thorough and I was calm today when thinking of what it could be. The driving in the snow and S2=D for my RaceChip setting put a big smile on my face. I'm not in panic mode. I know a dealer visit will fix everything, lol. I might VO Code everything (BDC_Body is not the only place where similar codes exist) except DME (Shawn told me this causes CEL if you try to VO Code this - I forget why/how).

However, thanks for the reply and sound advice

. I really thank this community for its positivity. It's nice having the beast back in my garage.

Bro I feel your pain. I experienced alignment issue right away after the new steering swap and it was nerve wrecking and bothered me the entire day and night until I have fixed issue. I am sure some of these pro coders will be able to help you solve the issue.

If the worst comes true, you are so skilled in taking everything on and off anyway, you can easily handle this and just let dealer do the work for you.

Keep up the good work bro, we always appreciate what you have done and continued to do!

Doanster · 03-01-2015, 03:48 PM

Honestly? With ALL the coding and tweaks you've done, especially wrt just experimenting with various settings, I would indeed start fresh and return all codes back to stock. Then start over. I always like to start from a known baseline after many edits/tweaks.
As for the suspension, I've had clunks after strut/spring swaps and the culprit for me has always been to top hat retention nut. Even though I thought I tightened it down appropriately, after the clunks, I was able to tighten even further, resolving the clunk.
Good luck!!!!

opasha · 03-01-2015, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cy07

Bro I feel your pain. I experienced alignment issue right away after the new steering swap and it was nerve wrecking and bothered me the entire day and night until I have fixed issue. I am sure some of these pro coders will be able to help you solve the issue.

If the worst comes true, you are so skilled in taking everything on and off anyway, you can easily handle this and just let dealer do the work for you.

Keep up the good work bro, we always appreciate what you have done and continued to do!

Thanks for the positive/kind words, my friend

. I always do my best to remain positive

. At least the car works/drives 99% fine, thankfully.

opasha · 03-01-2015, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doanster

Honestly? With ALL the coding and tweaks you've done, especially wrt just experimenting with various settings, I would indeed start fresh and return all codes back to stock. Then start over. I always like to start from a known baseline after many edits/tweaks.
As for the suspension, I've had clunks after strut/spring swaps and the culprit for me has always been to top hat retention nut. Even though I thought I tightened it down appropriately, after the clunks, I was able to tighten even further, resolving the clunk.
Good luck!!!!

You see, this is why I appreciate all of you. You guys know more about suspensions and engines than I could ever know, and I learn a lot from you. Thankfully, I am a very observant/detailed person, so I knew immediately after driving 30 seconds away from his shop that the strut was making that popping/clunking sound. I took it right back to him and he knew the issue (the very thing you pointed out- it's a bolt that is in the engine bay that holds the strut directly tight in place). We tightened it (at least I thought he did to the best of his ability), and yes, it definitely helped and got better. However, because I'm so aware of my car, I know it's still there and might not be 100% tight as you said it could be. This is why, a dealer visit will be good, so I can just knock it all out. Also, by VO Coding everything, the dealer won't catch anything off.

Here's my next question to all of you. Should I remove my V1 radar detector that is hardwired into my rear view camera (this btw has nothing to do with any errors because it's been installed error-free for half a year).

Should I also remove my DASH CAM. This is a BIG concern of mine (would be a pain to remove), and it was 100% properly installed and the button pushes and engine starts all worked correctly with it installed. So, I know 100% this is also not the culprit; I actually even turned it off to test and it has nothing to do with it.

Thanks

.

F15GorDe · 03-01-2015, 04:26 PM

If you were in Virginia I'd say take out the V1. But you're not. Leave them both in, unless you have reservations about the security of valuables left in your ride that most dealers will not take responsibility for when they turn up missing.
I remove anything I don't want to replace simply because I was lazy!

Like you said, neither has any bearing on your issue.

Hope it gets sorted promptly, you've put in too much effort to have anything less than a flawless ride.

opasha · 03-01-2015, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F15GorDe

If you were in Virginia I'd say take out the V1. But you're not. Leave them both in, unless you have reservations about the security of valuables left in your ride that most dealers will not take responsibility for when they turn up missing.
I remove anything I don't want to replace simply because I was lazy!

Like you said, neither has any bearing on your issue.

Hope it gets sorted promptly, you've put in too much effort to have anything less than a flawless ride.

Yeah, my cousins live in VA, so I know the D.C. and VA laws about radar

. Thanks for the input; I'll leave them in, but I just wanted to make sure in case they try to say something about voiding my warranty for it (extreme case). My SA is a cool guy so I don't think they will. I don't ever keep anything valuable in my car. It's actually always very clean and has no junk/extra stuff inside it

.

Doanster · 03-01-2015, 04:40 PM

It's not the nut that holds the spring/strut combo in place to the car. It's the top hat nut that holds the spring in place. The force of the spring pushes against this hat. When you go over, say, a speed bump, the spring compresses and if the retaining but isn't tight, there's a tiny bit of free play allowing the hat to move. Once the spring releases after the bump, it'll push the hat back up thereby causing the clunk.
So have your guy tighten that but again on the car. If the noise is still there, I'd have him pull the spring/strut assembly, compress the spring, then fully tighten the nut before decompressing the spring.
As for the dash cam, we know the writing on the wall. The dealer will use ANYTHING to claim that it was the fault of something we installed. So, I'd take a couple days and try all the coding reset, etc. first to see if things get resolved. If the dealer is your last resort, I'd unfortunately bite the bullet and remove the dash cam. V1 I'd leave in place as they're more familiar with it and it's only a hardwire pwr install. The dash cam ties into the screen so they can claim you messed with the iDrive system.

opasha · 03-01-2015, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doanster

It's not the nut that holds the spring/strut combo in place to the car. It's the top hat nut that holds the spring in place. The force of the spring pushes against this hat. When you go over, say, a speed bump, the spring compresses and if the retaining but isn't tight, there's a tiny bit of free play allowing the hat to move. Once the spring releases after the bump, it'll push the hat back up thereby causing the clunk.
So have your guy tighten that but again on the car. If the noise is still there, I'd have him pull the spring/strut assembly, compress the spring, then fully tighten the nut before decompressing the spring.
As for the dash cam, we know the writing on the wall. The dealer will use ANYTHING to claim that it was the fault of something we installed. So, I'd take a couple days and try all the coding reset, etc. first to see if things get resolved. If the dealer is your last resort, I'd unfortunately bite the bullet and remove the dash cam. V1 I'd leave in place as they're more familiar with it and it's only a hardwire pwr install. The dash cam ties into the screen so they can claim you messed with the iDrive system.

Dash cam doesn't tie into the the screen at all. That's my HDlink system and it's hidden away. They won't take out the HU_NBT for a start stop error. I forgot about that system as well and it also did not cause any issues either.

The nut you mentioned- I believe we are talking about the same thing. It's a nut in the engine bay for each strut for keeping the strut in place with the body of the vehicle. As you said, when I go over bumps, I hear this knocking, so it could be not 100% tight as you mentioned.

Doanster · 03-01-2015, 05:07 PM

I don't think we are. There are three small nuts at the top of each shock tower in the engine bay. Those nuts hold the spring/strut combo to the car. There's an open circle in the middle and there's a single BIG nut. That nut holds the top hat of the spring. That's the one that needs to be tightened. Took a quick, not so clear pic. The nut I'm talking about is to the left of the little silver nut. It's the black one. (Took this pic with my iPhone so not sure how it'll look after posting; can edit tonight when I'm on the tablet if it's horrible)
The only way to tighten any of the nuts is to pull all the plastic cowling at the bottom of the windshield.

opasha · 03-01-2015, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doanster

I don't think we are. There are three small nuts at the top of each shock tower in the engine bay. Those nuts hold the spring/strut combo to the car. There's an open circle in the middle and there's a single BIG nut. That nut holds the top hat of the spring. That's the one that needs to be tightened. Took a quick, not so clear pic. The nut I'm talking about is to the left of the little silver nut. It's the black one. (Took this pic with my iPhone so not sure how it'll look after posting; can edit tonight when I'm on the tablet if it's horrible)
The only way to tighten any of the nuts is to pull all the plastic cowling at the bottom of the windshield.

Yep, we are talking about the same thing, sorry about my poor explanation. That big nut is the one we tightened on both sides. You have to use a torx bit (6mm) to hold the bolt in place while using a wrench to tighten it. I guess he just didn't tighten it enough. We had to remove the black plastic trim below the wind shield like you said to get access to it. I'm going to be picking my mom's car up tonight or tomorrow, and I will get him to check it again. Thanks

.

I'll take a picture for you when he tightens it up again.

MattBianco · 03-01-2015, 05:23 PM

You are not allowed to ask questions or ask for help here. Do you know how depressing that is for most of us?

opasha · 03-01-2015, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattBianco

You are not allowed to ask questions or ask for help here. Do you know how depressing that is for most of us?

Hahaha, there's no I in team, Niko, and we all are a big TEAM

. I learn just as much from all of you - knowledge is endless

.

Kzang · 03-01-2015, 05:36 PM

I can't offer any help since I have no idea about coding and I guess I missed your post about losing your suspension.. what happen to it and where did it go lol?

Ashot12 · 03-01-2015, 05:36 PM

It is very depressing, Good luck Opasha.

opasha · 03-01-2015, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kzang

I can't offer any help since I have no idea about coding and I guess I missed your post about losing your suspension.. what happen to it and where did it go lol?

If you read in my wrap thread, I mentioned that it had too many sensor errors and also during my drive home, it went to zero air pressure in the front bags. It also caused this stability error at ride height level 3 (highest setting). It wasn't worth trouble.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashot12

It is very depressing, Good luck Opasha.

Thank Ashot

.

r33_RGSport · 03-01-2015, 05:49 PM

@opasha, suspension wise, so check the lower bolt that is holding the bottom fork to the shock body. Also make sure that the shock body is properly sitted inside the lower fork. I usually uses a floor jack to push up the suspension up before I tighten the bolt.

While for the coding, after you VO code and FDL everything, let the car sleep and see if that solves it.

r33_RGSport · 03-01-2015, 06:17 PM

@opasha, here is the picture.
What I meant was bolt #3 in the diagram.
Also check the direction of the top mount how it supposed to be. I believe there is a indicating triangle symbol to tell you how the uppermount supposed to be positioned.
And the nuts on #10 and #11.
I hope that helps.

r33_RGSport · 03-01-2015, 06:18 PM

Damn mobile app.

NPickles · 03-01-2015, 06:24 PM

Regarding issue no 1, I too have coded radio & gps to turn off when you open the drivers door but for this work you have to wait for everything to stop when turning off the car with one button press otherwise opening the door doesn't turn everything off?

I regularly have this not work for me as the time it takes for everything to stop is more than it takes for you to press the button and open the door, you have to consciously add a delay of a few seconds.

03-01-2015, 03:19 PM	#1
opasha Brigadier General 1329 Rep 3,990 Posts Drives: 2014 BMW X5 50i Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	My Issues :( Featured on BIMMERPOST.com So, as you all know, my suspension was removed. While driving in the highest setting, I got a chassis stability malfunction. This caused the car to not turn off with two button pushes. It would actually turn back on with the second button push. The suspension is back to stock with ZERO errors in the iDrive. This is the behavior as follows: 1) When I push the start button once, it will keep radio and gps on (despite me coding the ability for the gps and radio to turn off when I open the door), and only shuts off completely when I lock the car. 2) When I have returned - I guess after 20 minutes to 1 hour, the car allows me to do one button push to turn AC Power on only and if I press it again, it turns it off (the way it should) and won't start the engine without me pressing the brake pedal. 3) When I press the brake and push the button to start the car, it will start. Even after driving about 10 miles or so and returning home just now, when I push the start/stop button once, it will shut off the engine, but when I push it a second time, it turns the engine back on without me holding the brake pedal rather than completely shutting down the car. My attempts at a solution: I VO Coded BDC_Body and Cleared All DTCs right after - this was done last night. So, today, those same issues persist. In order for me to shut down the car completely, I have to push button one time and then lock the car. I have checked all the codes that deal with this function and they are in BDC_Body: TCM_StartLock_Brake - default is aktiv - this is so that your car starts only by holding the brake pedal. shawnsheridan and other coders/people that know cars, what should I do? Should I VO CODE EVERYTHING except DME?? My only option at this point seems like a dealer visit (a big hassle for me because I will have to take out my 6WB in order for them to properly use ISTA/P to VO Code everything) and remove my RaceChip (you know how annoying this is on the 50i). PS: I need to do an alignment as well, and I hear a slight knocking sound of the left strut even though I saw him tighten everything. So, I will have to ask BMW to fix that as well. And I thought I was over all my problems... Your advice, tips, and thoughts are most appreciated everyone! Thank you! __________________ 2014 X5 50i X-Line // Mineral White
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03-01-2015, 03:36 PM	#2
wjbender Captain 346 Rep 781 Posts Drives: 2022 X5 40i M Sport Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: NJ - Jersey Shore iTrader: (0)	OK - relax and take a break. Let the car sit until tomorrow and try again fresh. You might be overlooking something simple. If the MASTER is stumped we are all in trouble!!
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03-01-2015, 03:48 PM	#5
Doanster Major 627 Rep 1,181 Posts Drives: 2014 F15 Carbon Black M-Sport Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Oregon iTrader: (0)	Honestly? With ALL the coding and tweaks you've done, especially wrt just experimenting with various settings, I would indeed start fresh and return all codes back to stock. Then start over. I always like to start from a known baseline after many edits/tweaks. As for the suspension, I've had clunks after strut/spring swaps and the culprit for me has always been to top hat retention nut. Even though I thought I tightened it down appropriately, after the clunks, I was able to tighten even further, resolving the clunk. Good luck!!!! __________________ A little mod here, a little mod there...
	Appreciate 1 Quote

03-01-2015, 04:26 PM	#8
F15GorDe Well versed in the care and feeding of BMWs 261 Rep 733 Posts Drives: F15d, F10 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: NorCal iTrader: (0)	If you were in Virginia I'd say take out the V1. But you're not. Leave them both in, unless you have reservations about the security of valuables left in your ride that most dealers will not take responsibility for when they turn up missing. I remove anything I don't want to replace simply because I was lazy! Like you said, neither has any bearing on your issue. Hope it gets sorted promptly, you've put in too much effort to have anything less than a flawless ride. __________________ B&O, parking assistant, executive package, 3rd row seats and the manual rear shades are the ONLY items we didn't order. Having everything else makes our F15d a NICE ride.
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03-01-2015, 04:40 PM	#10
Doanster Major 627 Rep 1,181 Posts Drives: 2014 F15 Carbon Black M-Sport Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Oregon iTrader: (0)	It's not the nut that holds the spring/strut combo in place to the car. It's the top hat nut that holds the spring in place. The force of the spring pushes against this hat. When you go over, say, a speed bump, the spring compresses and if the retaining but isn't tight, there's a tiny bit of free play allowing the hat to move. Once the spring releases after the bump, it'll push the hat back up thereby causing the clunk. So have your guy tighten that but again on the car. If the noise is still there, I'd have him pull the spring/strut assembly, compress the spring, then fully tighten the nut before decompressing the spring. As for the dash cam, we know the writing on the wall. The dealer will use ANYTHING to claim that it was the fault of something we installed. So, I'd take a couple days and try all the coding reset, etc. first to see if things get resolved. If the dealer is your last resort, I'd unfortunately bite the bullet and remove the dash cam. V1 I'd leave in place as they're more familiar with it and it's only a hardwire pwr install. The dash cam ties into the screen so they can claim you messed with the iDrive system. __________________ A little mod here, a little mod there...
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		BMW X5 and X6 Forum (F15/F16) > BMW X5 (F15) and BMW X6 (F16) Forum > BMW X5 and X6 (F15/F16) Forum
My Issues :(

03-01-2015, 05:07 PM	#12
Doanster Major 627 Rep 1,181 Posts Drives: 2014 F15 Carbon Black M-Sport Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Oregon iTrader: (0)	I don't think we are. There are three small nuts at the top of each shock tower in the engine bay. Those nuts hold the spring/strut combo to the car. There's an open circle in the middle and there's a single BIG nut. That nut holds the top hat of the spring. That's the one that needs to be tightened. Took a quick, not so clear pic. The nut I'm talking about is to the left of the little silver nut. It's the black one. (Took this pic with my iPhone so not sure how it'll look after posting; can edit tonight when I'm on the tablet if it's horrible) The only way to tighten any of the nuts is to pull all the plastic cowling at the bottom of the windshield. Attached Images __________________ A little mod here, a little mod there...
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03-01-2015, 05:23 PM	#14
MattBianco Lieutenant Colonel 1280 Rep 1,886 Posts Drives: 2015 X5 35d msport Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Marin, California iTrader: (0)	You are not allowed to ask questions or ask for help here. Do you know how depressing that is for most of us? __________________ Amber or Red Rear Turn Signals? Vote/have your say: LINK. Post your MPGs 100L/km here: LINK X5 F15 Engines Compared LINK Take the BMW X5 F15 Survey: LINK See the Results: LINK N57 Diesel Tuning Chips Compared LINK
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03-01-2015, 05:36 PM	#16
Kzang Major General 3240 Rep 5,066 Posts Drives: 2015 X5 35i Msport SG Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: East Coast iTrader: (0)	I can't offer any help since I have no idea about coding and I guess I missed your post about losing your suspension.. what happen to it and where did it go lol?
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03-01-2015, 05:36 PM	#17
Ashot12 Private First Class 71 Rep 174 Posts Drives: 2014 x35i, lotus Elise sc Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Nor Cal iTrader: (0)	It is very depressing, Good luck Opasha.
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03-01-2015, 05:49 PM	#19
r33_RGSport General 12966 Rep 18,713 Posts Drives: G09 XM, G05 X5 40, 991.2 T Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: So. Cal iTrader: (6)	@opasha, suspension wise, so check the lower bolt that is holding the bottom fork to the shock body. Also make sure that the shock body is properly sitted inside the lower fork. I usually uses a floor jack to push up the suspension up before I tighten the bolt. While for the coding, after you VO code and FDL everything, let the car sleep and see if that solves it. __________________ Email:sales@rgsport.com \| IG:RGSport_USA \| Web:RGSportShop.com PM for Everyday DEALS!! MSS • iSweep • RaceChip • Sterckenn • AutoTecknic • Akrapovic • Vossen Wheels • Eventuri Active Autowerke • KW • H&R • Ohlins • Remus • and more...
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03-01-2015, 06:17 PM	#20
r33_RGSport General 12966 Rep 18,713 Posts Drives: G09 XM, G05 X5 40, 991.2 T Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: So. Cal iTrader: (6)	@opasha, here is the picture. What I meant was bolt #3 in the diagram. Also check the direction of the top mount how it supposed to be. I believe there is a indicating triangle symbol to tell you how the uppermount supposed to be positioned. And the nuts on #10 and #11. I hope that helps. __________________ Email:sales@rgsport.com \| IG:RGSport_USA \| Web:RGSportShop.com PM for Everyday DEALS!! MSS • iSweep • RaceChip • Sterckenn • AutoTecknic • Akrapovic • Vossen Wheels • Eventuri Active Autowerke • KW • H&R • Ohlins • Remus • and more...
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03-01-2015, 06:18 PM	#21
r33_RGSport General 12966 Rep 18,713 Posts Drives: G09 XM, G05 X5 40, 991.2 T Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: So. Cal iTrader: (6)	Damn mobile app. Attached Images __________________ Email:sales@rgsport.com \| IG:RGSport_USA \| Web:RGSportShop.com PM for Everyday DEALS!! MSS • iSweep • RaceChip • Sterckenn • AutoTecknic • Akrapovic • Vossen Wheels • Eventuri Active Autowerke • KW • H&R • Ohlins • Remus • and more...
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03-01-2015, 06:24 PM	#22
NPickles Lieutenant 71 Rep 450 Posts Drives: F15 40D SE Space Grey/Terra Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Nottingham UK iTrader: (0)	Regarding issue no 1, I too have coded radio & gps to turn off when you open the drivers door but for this work you have to wait for everything to stop when turning off the car with one button press otherwise opening the door doesn't turn everything off? I regularly have this not work for me as the time it takes for everything to stop is more than it takes for you to press the button and open the door, you have to consciously add a delay of a few seconds.
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