Bang & Olufsen Sound System - Questions / Opinions / Experience

[WERND]

Originally Posted by chadism

I have had the earthquake subs for about a week. It makes a substantial difference and is worth the investment. Some random notes:

-Moving the carpet around to get the sub housing out is a pain on the drivers side but it's do-able.
-You'll need a T50 socket for the seat bolts and a T20 driver and socket for the grille screws (the screws are recessed deeper than the socket allows), alternative is to drill the recessed screw holes to a much larger size when removing, since they cannot be used with the earthquake subs, anyways.
-Cut the wires to the factory plug as close to the plug as possible, there is no slack for error when connecting to the earthquake provided adapter ring, which brings me to my next point:
-Do not purchase the adapter ring! It comes with the subs.
-The sound deadening material that was used in the earlier post is no longer available on Amazon, I purchased 2 Sq. Ft of Dynamat extreme for $20 and that was more than plenty - Make sure you cut out the holes that vent into the side channels after laying down the Dynamat or you will have no airspace! (I am wondering if an earlier poster that stated the subs sounded like S%$! might not have done this).
-An earlier post mentioned set bass around 90% and treble around 60%, that's just about right.
-Beastie Boys "Brass Monkey" thumps pretty darn hard, plenty enough for an aging music lover.

Am interested and will be watching the longevity factor of the amp/components after making this change since I have installed 4 ohm speakers into a system designed for 8 ohm speakers, so will report back after awhile. Ping me if I fail to report back. I do believe I will be a good tester of this setup since I listen to just about everything, and usually at a loud (70-80%) volume.

So what screws did you use then if the oem didn't work?

[chadism]

Originally Posted by WERND

So what screws did you use then if the oem didn't work?

Just to clarify, I did not need to use different screws during the install, the stock plastic grille screws are recessed so deep, that my torx sockets did not reach the screwhead, and that is why i drilled the screw holes to a larger diameter. This is fine because you cannot use the stock grille with the earthquake sub (the earthquake excursion would hit the grille).

[WERND]

Thanks for the info it did come in handy.

I did use some of the stock grille so I could put the cover back on. The stock grille will hit but the cover won't. I cut two corners off and bolted them back in, then I reattached the cover to those two pieces. The cover may only have two screw holding it but it's better than the sub not being covered at all I thought.

[chadism]

Originally Posted by WERND

Thanks for the info it did come in handy.

I did use some of the stock grille so I could put the cover back on. The stock grille will hit but the cover won't. I cut two corners off and bolted them back in, then I reattached the cover to those two pieces. The cover may only have two screw holding it but it's better than the sub not being covered at all I thought.

What year is yours? Mine is a 16. And for me, the stock grille...is the cover. Just one piece of plastic that covered the stock woofer in the floor, so it was flush with the carpet. I took a look at mine and can't for the life of me figure out how you got that stock plastic piece (even if cut and modified, put on spacers, etc) to cover the woofer without the earthquake woofer hitting the plastic and causing a rattle, or worse just eventually destroying the speaker by blocking the total movement?

[WERND]

I just purchased a 2017

There was a cover that was flush with the carpet with 4 screws holding it to the grille.

Under that was the grille of the speaker held on by four 10mm bolts. This is the part that would touch the new sub as it's not a down firing sub like the stock one is. I trimmed 2 of the corners off and bolted them back down to have a spot to screw the cover back down. You can only do 2 since the carpet is offset, and they're raked so pay attention to which one goes to the front of the vehicle and which to the rear.

Hope that helps

[maximus5403]

Sorry to revive an old thread but for those with B&O did you measure the resistance of the factory 8" speaker? Mine were 4.1-4.5 ohms and I was expecting 8 ohms as others have said. Wouldn't I be better off going 2 ohm for the 8" underseat woofers?

[640ijims]

Wow, SWMBO'd & I must be getting old.....she has me turn down the "thumper" dial!

[nishfish87]

Any update on the Earthquake subs and reliability with the B&O amp? Was thinking of grabbing a set.

[Gossypiboma]

Are there not recommend EQ settings for the B&O system? I just picked up a 2018 and the B&O system is seriously lacking compared to whats in in my 2013 M3.

[nishfish87]

Originally Posted by Gossypiboma

Are there not recommend EQ settings for the B&O system? I just picked up a 2018 and the B&O system is seriously lacking compared to whats in in my 2013 M3.

That's wild as I think my "enhanced sound" E92 M3 is lacking in highs and lows. Makes me want to verify everything is working right.

I'll try and grab pics of my B&O settings, which I think is only lacking in the 20-50hz range which I'm trying to mitigate.

[Yuille36]

I don't understand this, as B&O is supposed to be the premium sound system for the X5M. Personally, I never listened to the B&O system in our vehicles, so I have no frame of reference.
But the K&K system sounds great in these vehicles in IMO. I personally didn't want to spend the extra cash, when the H&K sounded exceptional to me.
90% of the time I listen to Jazz in my vehicles anyway. So with the EQ adjusted properly, I have no complaints whatsoever.

[Jenner]

Originally Posted by nishfish87

Any update on the Earthquake subs and reliability with the B&O amp? Was thinking of grabbing a set.

I no longer have my F85 X5M but I had it for 2+ years with the earthquake subs and never had a single issue only much improved bass compared to stock subs. I self installed, so really the only issue with this mod might be your installer making a mistake IMHO. The stock B&O amp handled the ohm/power difference easily at high levels for extended periods from my experience over 2 years.

I also for reference I traded my M4 Convertible and X5M for a M8 Convertible with B&W sound system. The bass on the Earthquake sub upgraded B&O X5M is slightly better than the B&W simply because the SUV interior amplifies the bass where in the convertible it is open to air obviously.
Without the Earthquake upgrade the B&O can't compare at all.

Outside of that the B&W is superior to the B&O and the sound quality with the top down is surprisingly good which is no easy feat.

[m3fuz]

Originally Posted by Jenner

I no longer have my F85 X5M but I had it for 2+ years with the earthquake subs and never had a single issue only much improved bass compared to stock subs. I self installed, so really the only issue with this mod might be your installer making a mistake IMHO. The stock B&O amp handled the ohm/power difference easily at high levels for extended periods from my experience over 2 years.

I also for reference I traded my M4 Convertible and X5M for a M8 Convertible with B&W sound system. The bass on the Earthquake sub upgraded B&O X5M is slightly better than the B&W simply because the SUV interior amplifies the bass where in the convertible it is open to air obviously.
Without the Earthquake upgrade the B&O can't compare at all.

Outside of that the B&W is superior to the B&O and the sound quality with the top down is surprisingly good which is no easy feat.

I put in-wall B&W speakers in my office - easily the best in-wall speakers I've ever used.

With respect to B&O, I did pull fuse #129 and it's different. Better different. I listen to everything, but I can tell the highs are crisper. I haven't had chance to play with Sport and Sport+ modes, so no feedback on the exhaust note yet.

[nishfish87]

Originally Posted by Jenner

I no longer have my F85 X5M but I had it for 2+ years with the earthquake subs and never had a single issue only much improved bass compared to stock subs. I self installed, so really the only issue with this mod might be your installer making a mistake IMHO. The stock B&O amp handled the ohm/power difference easily at high levels for extended periods from my experience over 2 years.

I also for reference I traded my M4 Convertible and X5M for a M8 Convertible with B&W sound system. The bass on the Earthquake sub upgraded B&O X5M is slightly better than the B&W simply because the SUV interior amplifies the bass where in the convertible it is open to air obviously.
Without the Earthquake upgrade the B&O can't compare at all.

Outside of that the B&W is superior to the B&O and the sound quality with the top down is surprisingly good which is no easy feat.

Great to hear, I'm going to pull the trigger then!

I did find some pigtails on ebay that could make this mod almost a plugnplay without needing to cut the original plug.

[m3fuz]

Originally Posted by nishfish87

Great to hear, I'm going to pull the trigger then!

I did find some pigtails on ebay that could make this mod almost a plugnplay without needing to cut the original plug.

Link?

[Abstracted]

Anyone try stuffing some polyfill into speaker cavity before mounting the new sub?

[135iUSN]

Instead of pulling fuse #129 - can you code it out via bimmercode?

[nishfish87]

Originally Posted by m3fuz

Link?

https://earthquakesoundshop.com/product/x84sws/

I need to find a female end for this connector:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/7x8AA...2n/s-l1600.jpg

Originally Posted by Abstracted

Anyone try stuffing some polyfill into speaker cavity before mounting the new sub?

I don't think you'll get very much polyfill since the sub housing is super small. Probably better to stick with sound deadening.

Originally Posted by 135iUSN

Instead of pulling fuse #129 - can you code it out via bimmercode?

I did this in bimmercode, its in the regular settings not expert mode.

[Abstracted]

Anyone listen to EDM and feel as though the Earthquake subs are good enough?

Or should I skip them and add a boxed 12" in the spare tire space instead?

[Abstracted]

Link to Earthquake subs in new condition (not refurbs):

https://earthquakesoundshop.com/product/x84sws-kit/

[NikNala]

Originally Posted by Abstracted

Link to Earthquake subs in new condition (not refurbs):

https://earthquakesoundshop.com/product/x84sws-kit/

I installed them but ultimately added a 10" ported box with 1500W RMS powering the SUB. If you really like bass and EDM they won't be enough.

[nishfish87]

Originally Posted by NikNala

I installed them but ultimately added a 10" ported box with 1500W RMS powering the SUB. If you really like bass and EDM they won't be enough.

Must sound really good and LOUD! I wish I could do that but I want to maximize the space in the trunk.