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      06-18-2021, 09:51 AM   #1035
abdul642
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Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
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Originally Posted by abdul642 View Post
I have 2014 x5 30d with rear suspension issue. At first car was sagging on one side so rear suspension bags were changed to brand new Arnott bags. After this the car decides to lift itself extra high on drivers side whenever it feels like. As such the following was carried out.
Compressor was changed
Ride height sensors changed (rear)
EHC control unit changed
Relay was burnt and this was changed too
Every time each of these parts were changed the ride height was recalibrated on the computer.
However the car is still deciding to lift itself on one side. About 20mm higher than the passenger side which is at normal height.
^Long shot, and I don't even know if it's possible on the F15... but can the arm on the rear ride height sensors be mounted wrong? On the E53 x5 with 2 axle air suspension it is definitely possible so figured I'd ask.
Hi

It is possible on the f15 but this was checked and fitted properly. No mechanic can seem to find out why my cars doing this and now the passenger suspension bag has deformed too! It's just going to have to go to the stealers and they will probably change everything for a stupid price
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      06-18-2021, 06:19 PM   #1036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abdul642 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by abdul642 View Post
I have 2014 x5 30d with rear suspension issue. At first car was sagging on one side so rear suspension bags were changed to brand new Arnott bags. After this the car decides to lift itself extra high on drivers side whenever it feels like. As such the following was carried out.
Compressor was changed
Ride height sensors changed (rear)
EHC control unit changed
Relay was burnt and this was changed too
Every time each of these parts were changed the ride height was recalibrated on the computer.
However the car is still deciding to lift itself on one side. About 20mm higher than the passenger side which is at normal height.
^Long shot, and I don't even know if it's possible on the F15... but can the arm on the rear ride height sensors be mounted wrong? On the E53 x5 with 2 axle air suspension it is definitely possible so figured I'd ask.
Hi

It is possible on the f15 but this was checked and fitted properly. No mechanic can seem to find out why my cars doing this and now the passenger suspension bag has deformed too! It's just going to have to go to the stealers and they will probably change everything for a stupid price
I see that a whole lot of people replace bags with standard suspension on X5s because they really suck. I think that's what I'd do.
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      06-18-2021, 09:08 PM   #1037
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Charge Pipe Oil Residue

Hi,

During my regular maintenance/checking recently, I found oil residue on what appeared to be the charge pipe. More specifically, oil seeping/residue found all the way from the inter cooler connection to the top of the pipe leading to the throttle body. No oil or cracks notice anywhere near the pipe where it connects the throttle body, however. I can't bring to my local BMW shop until mid next week, but wanted to see what your thoughts are. Also, I searched around and it seemed to be an expected/somewhat "normal" occurrence, but take it FWIW. Anyway, please let me know if you have similar experiences or thoughts. Thanks!
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      06-23-2021, 07:17 AM   #1038
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x5 Diesel: thoughts?
Weak battery, it was 7 years old?? It may the cause of the issues I have been seeing like doors failing to lock, loss of engine power/surging, auto stop start kicking in and then shutting off the car. I replaced the battery, changed the diesel filters, and checked fluids everywhere. Hope this helps, I want to put RaceChip back in, which the dealer pointed to.
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      06-23-2021, 02:34 PM   #1039
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Has anyone had any issues with HUD? After a month or so after I bought my 2018 X5 my HUD glitched and didn't show up after I started the car, but was fine on the next startup. A few days ago it didn't work few times, different days/time. It's enabled in my settings, never turned it off. It's still under bumper to bumper and I'm going to mention this to a dealer, but wanted to see if anyone else had the same issue. Thanks.
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      06-25-2021, 09:34 PM   #1040
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Originally Posted by S1nner View Post
Has anyone had any issues with HUD? After a month or so after I bought my 2018 X5 my HUD glitched and didn't show up after I started the car, but was fine on the next startup. A few days ago it didn't work few times, different days/time. It's enabled in my settings, never turned it off. It's still under bumper to bumper and I'm going to mention this to a dealer, but wanted to see if anyone else had the same issue. Thanks.
Yes. On my 2018 as well. it's rare but sometimes hud fails to start. It will always come back when I lock the car, come back to it and restart. Chalk it up to one of those things. Sure it's just a s/w initialization issue that will never be fixed.

Same with CarPlay. Sometimes that fails to start properly.
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      06-26-2021, 11:15 AM   #1041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1nner View Post
Has anyone had any issues with HUD? After a month or so after I bought my 2018 X5 my HUD glitched and didn't show up after I started the car, but was fine on the next startup. A few days ago it didn't work few times, different days/time. It's enabled in my settings, never turned it off. It's still under bumper to bumper and I'm going to mention this to a dealer, but wanted to see if anyone else had the same issue. Thanks.
I've had this intermittently on my X5 when I bought it. If the car had shut down after 15 min, and I came back, no issue. If I drove the car 5min. Turned it off, got out, locked it, unlocked and started it up again, I'd 30% of the time have a non working HUD.

The dealer did look at it, and diagnosed it as issue with my 6WB cluster. They wanted to send an inspector to verify the repair as it was a 6K bill. No loaners available and they wanted me to leave the car for 3-4 days, I said we could schedule later.

BMW's are notorious for battery issues and this was certainly a case of that. The battery in my 35i is original with a MFG date of 10/14, AGM' batteries can last 7-10 years no problem, sometimes more, if taken care of.

I put it on my Odyssey 20A charger and let it do its thing, re-conditing the battery and giving it high voltage like it wants to rejuve it. The battery controller on these cars does not provide alot of voltage from the alternator in order to save fuel but not spinning the alt.

1 years later, with a top up from the charger depending on driving or weather temps, no more issues with the HUD.

Charge your battery and see what happens. Yours is an 18, so probably MFG 17 battery, if it was driven for short trips often it could need a condition.

They also said they could try and re-program the cluster software and see if that helped. That was the next option, but the keeping the battery happy has been a good fix.
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      07-07-2021, 01:19 PM   #1042
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Has anyone had a problem with paddle shifters? The left (downshift) one on my F15 actually shifts up when pressed, so it works in the same way as right. E.g. both shifts up like M5 -> M6 -> M7 -> M8.

I suppose this happened because the previous owner had spilled some coffee (or Coke) on the steering wheel buttons and right paddle shifter. The question is why does the left shifter fail to work properly if the liquid was spilled at the right one?

P.S. I recall I had managed it to work properly a few weeks ago, so it worked well for a day or two. But since then the downshifter actually upshifts

Any ideas how to fix this?
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      07-13-2021, 11:46 AM   #1043
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Well, now my NAV screen is completely black/not working. With my intermittent heads-up display issues and now NAV screen, it seems like def. a battery issue, since we don't drive our truck much. Going to the dealer this Thursday.
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      07-13-2021, 04:59 PM   #1044
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Well, now my NAV screen is completely black/not working. With my intermittent heads-up display issues and now NAV screen, it seems like def. a battery issue, since we don't drive our truck much. Going to the dealer this Thursday.
On a 2018 your battery probably just needs a good top up charge.
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      07-13-2021, 06:13 PM   #1045
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On a 2018 your battery probably just needs a good top up charge.
Yeah going to order one for sure. On a side note do you know if the dealer will replace a battery or will they just charge it?
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      07-17-2021, 11:24 AM   #1046
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While dropping X5 at the dealer SA told me that it's probably due to outdated software? so they're going to update it. Got a call today saying they've tried updating it twice and both times it failed. So they're going to order a cluster from Germany and I'll get an ETA only on Monday. I guess it's stuck at the dealer for a few weeks now.

PS: I asked them if they are sure it's not due to a battery and was told that they're 100% sure and have seen this many times before.
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      07-22-2021, 01:32 PM   #1047
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Question Possible Bad coil with no error indication?

My wife's 2016 X6 xDrive35i seems to be running rough. We just had a general service including new spark plugs, filters, brake fluid and oil service.

There aren't any idiot lights but something is not right. The service company, independent but former BMW service tech, suggested it might be a bad coil that misses occasionally but not long enough to trigger a code.

To have him replace the coils isn't too ridiculously high but I just replaced coils myself in my 2000 Land Cruiser and saved myself a lot of money. The Land Cruiser coils themselves were more than the BMW installed quote and the Toyota required removing a lot of stuff to even access the coils.

Is it easy to DIY? What coils are recommended?

Anything else that might be causing the problem?

Thanks.
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      07-22-2021, 03:43 PM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeR View Post
My wife's 2016 X6 xDrive35i seems to be running rough. We just had a general service including new spark plugs, filters, brake fluid and oil service.

There aren't any idiot lights but something is not right. The service company, independent but former BMW service tech, suggested it might be a bad coil that misses occasionally but not long enough to trigger a code.

To have him replace the coils isn't too ridiculously high but I just replaced coils myself in my 2000 Land Cruiser and saved myself a lot of money. The Land Cruiser coils themselves were more than the BMW installed quote and the Toyota required removing a lot of stuff to even access the coils.

Is it easy to DIY? What coils are recommended?

Anything else that might be causing the problem?

Thanks.
Whats the mileage?
Possible. Normally I'd hope for a misfire code, swap coils from said offending cylinder and hope the code follows.

Delphi / Eldor coils are good. Check real OEM for your match and ensure the PN works. I know some are either 2 or 3 external lams.
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      07-22-2021, 04:20 PM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty339 View Post
Whats the mileage?
Possible. Normally I'd hope for a misfire code, swap coils from said offending cylinder and hope the code follows.

Delphi / Eldor coils are good. Check real OEM for your match and ensure the PN works. I know some are either 2 or 3 external lams.
Low miles, 33,282. Seems low for coils to go bad but something is off. It does have MPPK if that matters.

Wouldn't a misfire code indicator trigger a warning. I understand I would need to use a code reader for specifics but even my 2000 Land Cruiser let me know there was an issue and the code reader identified which cylinders were miss-firing. Per the tech, the issue may not last long enough to trigger a code.

I may look for codes anyway.

I do have an Autel AL539B OBD2 Scanner that uses an OBD2 16pin data connector. I'll search for how to connect it, if you have a link on how and where and if it requires an adapter cable I wouldn't object.

Thanks.
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      07-22-2021, 07:02 PM   #1050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeR View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty339 View Post
Whats the mileage?
Possible. Normally I'd hope for a misfire code, swap coils from said offending cylinder and hope the code follows.

Delphi / Eldor coils are good. Check real OEM for your match and ensure the PN works. I know some are either 2 or 3 external lams.
Low miles, 33,282. Seems low for coils to go bad but something is off. It does have MPPK if that matters.

Wouldn't a misfire code indicator trigger a warning. I understand I would need to use a code reader for specifics but even my 2000 Land Cruiser let me know there was an issue and the code reader identified which cylinders were miss-firing. Per the tech, the issue may not last long enough to trigger a code.

I may look for codes anyway.

I do have an Autel AL539B OBD2 Scanner that uses an OBD2 16pin data connector. I'll search for how to connect it, if you have a link on how and where and if it requires an adapter cable I wouldn't object.

Thanks.
I've been having similar symptoms intermittently lately and we just did plugs, oil and such at 28k and as of today I'm at 33,4xx. I couldn't feel it driving today but I'll keep an eye on it and do a coil pack replacement with Eldors if needed. No ghost codes with BimmerLink present either.
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      07-23-2021, 07:44 AM   #1051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeR View Post
Low miles, 33,282. Seems low for coils to go bad but something is off. It does have MPPK if that matters.

Wouldn't a misfire code indicator trigger a warning. I understand I would need to use a code reader for specifics but even my 2000 Land Cruiser let me know there was an issue and the code reader identified which cylinders were miss-firing. Per the tech, the issue may not last long enough to trigger a code.

I may look for codes anyway.

I do have an Autel AL539B OBD2 Scanner that uses an OBD2 16pin data connector. I'll search for how to connect it, if you have a link on how and where and if it requires an adapter cable I wouldn't object.

Thanks.
Sometimes they happen once and it gets logged as pending and if it happens again it can be logged as a stored code and throw a CEL.

I use Bimmer Link (Diag) along with a VeePeak BT adapter to hook up.
Down by your left knee just under the storage cubby, you wil see the ODB2 port where you can hook up your code reader.

That is low for coils, but MPPK and hard driving + age can wear them out.

I'd personally wait for a code before spending $300 on coils + 3-4 hours to replace them.
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      08-14-2021, 08:14 AM   #1052
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Comfort Access issues...unreliable
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      08-18-2021, 09:55 AM   #1053
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      08-18-2021, 12:10 PM   #1054
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      08-22-2021, 09:30 AM   #1055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukhk527 View Post
I've been having similar symptoms intermittently lately and we just did plugs, oil and such at 28k and as of today I'm at 33,4xx. I couldn't feel it driving today but I'll keep an eye on it and do a coil pack replacement with Eldors if needed. No ghost codes with BimmerLink present either.
Tires still original? Been a lot of transfer case posts lately where the car will feel like a misfire for just a second every now and then. I am experiencing this currently on the wife's diesel , typically around 40mph for me but happens at other times as well. No active or stored codes. Seems most people fix it by servicing the transfer case fluid, diff fluids, and resetting adaptations. Some need to replace the tires because the overall diameter has changed enough to make the transfer case mad.

I have a new set of tires on order (date codes on sidewall of 2014 and 15 so it's time) and the fluids just came in. Will be doing this next weekend. Will update as to how the truck reacts.
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      08-23-2021, 03:49 PM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sukhk527 View Post
I've been having similar symptoms intermittently lately and we just did plugs, oil and such at 28k and as of today I'm at 33,4xx. I couldn't feel it driving today but I'll keep an eye on it and do a coil pack replacement with Eldors if needed. No ghost codes with BimmerLink present either.
Tires still original? Been a lot of transfer case posts lately where the car will feel like a misfire for just a second every now and then. I am experiencing this currently on the wife's diesel , typically around 40mph for me but happens at other times as well. No active or stored codes. Seems most people fix it by servicing the transfer case fluid, diff fluids, and resetting adaptations. Some need to replace the tires because the overall diameter has changed enough to make the transfer case mad.

I have a new set of tires on order (date codes on sidewall of 2014 and 15 so it's time) and the fluids just came in. Will be doing this next weekend. Will update as to how the truck reacts.
I switched from factory RFTs to Conti DWS06's on the Style 451s about 8k miles ago and had it aligned. Also had it aligned when I originally went from 19s to 20s. But I could see how the tcase clutches couldnt like that. It seems to be intermittent on WOT from patterns I've found and car was okay otherwise on the drive from KC to Detroit two days ago. I'm heading to Virginia in two weeks and already scheduled a tcase fluid change and recalibration once I get there so fingers crossed it's just in need of that.
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