DIY Lowering Springs

[Dilmorecg]

F15 X5 Air Ride Spring Install DIY

This DIY is for vehicles equipped with rear air springs: Adaptive M Suspension, Dynamic Handling Package & I believe 3rd row seats. For vehicles with standard suspension the fronts will be the same but the rears are different.

Time: 2-3 hours; took me a little longer since I was planning this DIY, taking pics and testing different methods to make it work.

I tackled this job this last weekend and since no one has posted a detailed DIY, I thought I would put one up. If you have ever swapped springs on other cars the process is basically the same.

Please forgive the dirty car in the pics.

Disclaimer: This is only meant as a guide. I am not responsible for your actions or anything you do to your car or any damage or injury that might occur. Continue reading only if you agree.

Products I used:

Eibach front springs for 50i, purchased: https://www.tunershop.com/shop/eibac...6-pro-kit.html thanks to F15Fan

Rear Links: http://www.loweringlinks.net/ They don’t have them for our car on the site…you will have to email him.



Before/After Measurements Fender to Ground:
Front Before: 31.25" ; Front After: 30.25" (-1")
Rear Before: 31.25" ; Rear After: 30.25" (-1")

Before:


After:


These pictures don’t do it justice. It looks waaaay better now. There are pleanty of other before/after posts if you search.

Tools Needed:


- Electric Screwdriver with 8mm, 10mm sockets & t-25 torx bits – you can also use ratchets screwdrivers etc. but its easier getting plastics off with power tools
- Shock Pinch tool
- Flat Head Screwdrivers – various sizes
- 18mm & 21mm open ended wrenches
- 10mm, 13mm 3/8" sockets
- 17mm, 18mm, 21mm ½" socket
- 5mm hex driver
- ½", 3/8" ratchets w/ various extensions
- t-40 torx on a ratchet
- Air wrench & compressor
- Spring compressor tool
- Parts tray
- Rubber or plastic mallet

Step 1) Disconnect Batteries
- Batteries are in trunk under floor
- Remove 8mm screws holding cover and remove cover
- Remove + terminal from both batteries (10mm) and cover or stash to the side


Step 2) Rear Links – easy part
- You do not need to lift the car for this part
- Look under car and locate links

- Remove lower 10mm nut
- Lower down the top of the link so you can access the top 10mm nut
- You may need to use a 3/8" open ended wrench on back of the screw or the whole thing will spin.

- Install new adjustable links at your desired height in reverse.
- The factory links in my car were 2.83" center to center. The new links I put in were 2.55" center to center


Step 3) Plastic covers
- There are 4 plastic covers that need to be removed to access the top of the spring/shock
- Very top plastic can be removed by pulling up the Velcro toward the front of the car the pulling up on the tabs in the back – it should lift right up

- The next level of plastic is held on by t-25 torx screws and 10mm bolts
- Remove the center section first, then the cabin filter cover (tabs only) on the passenger side, then both sections on either side. There is one plastic push tab thing that you need a screwdriver or trim removal tool to take out
- Once those are removed you should have access.


Step 4) Lift up front of car, put on jack stands and remove front wheels

Step 5) Remove spring/shocks – hard part
- Open boxes that hold the connectors for the brake/wheel speed sensor plugs and the shock plugs. Pull out and disconnect connectors – use small screwdriver to pull tabs – be careful not to break any tabs

- Remove pinch bolt at bottom of shock (18mm) – keep brake sensor wire/speed sensor wire attached
- Remove bracket holding brake sensor wire toward front of the car (5mm hex) – 2 bolts & string wires aside – not marked in pic – just to the left of the pinch bolt.
- Remove bolt at the bottom of shock mount (21mm) – I used an open ended to loosen nut then the air gun to get it out.
- Loosen top 3 nuts holding the top shock mount under the hood (13mm) – keep 1 or 2 of these nuts loose but still on.
- I also disconnected the swaybar end link (18mm + t-40 torx) so it was easier to hold the hub down to remove the shock.

- Separate strut pinch point using your tool and lube up the bottom of strut

- This is the hard part – I needed a 2nd person to push down/step on the hub/brake. There is barely any room and it took several tries. The trick I got to work is to turn the wheel/hub toward the center of the car (Steering wheel left on the passenger side; steering wheel right on the driver side). This gave me just enough room to slide the bottom of the shock out of the shock mount.
- Once its free you can loosen and remove the top 13mm nuts. Make sure the spring/shock assembly doesn’t fall.
- Take to your bench – use the spring compressor to compress the springs enough to get the top shock nut off (18mm – Air Gun). BE VERY CAREFUL…SPRING COMPRESSORS ARE DANGEROUS TOOLS. I have a spring compressor that bolts around the spring so it cant slip off. Forgive the mess in the pictures…too many projects going at once.

- Remove spring and put back together in same order with new spring. You should be able to get the 18mm nut started without compressing the new spring then tighten it down. I think you are supposed to use a special tool for this but I have always just used an air gun. Before you tighten make sure it is lined up. The spring/shock mount will only go in 1 way at the top and bottom. Mine had a blue line that had to be lined up with the pin on the bottom of the shock. Do this before you tighten the 18mm bolt down because it is very hard to spin in once it's tight.

- Just do the reverse to get everything back together. It should be a little easier to get the shock back in the mount at the bottom now that its shorter but still a pain. 2nd person needed for this part too.
- Make sure you tighten the very bottom bolt while the hub is jacked up so it doesn’t stretch the bushing.

- I don’t have torque specs for any of the bolts/nuts. I searched all over to try and find them but was not able to – I tightened as tight as I could for the bottom 21mm bolt/nut. Strut pinch (18mm) is probably about 70 foot lbs. Top 13mm are hard hand tight. – IF ANYONE HAS THESE SPECS PLEASE POST SO I CAN DO IT CORRECTLY AND WILL UPDATE THIS DIY.
- Put all the plastics back, wheels back on (104 ft lb torque).

Step 6) GET AN ALIGNMENT
- Anytime you do suspension modifications always get an alignment

If you have any suggestions to make this DIY better please let me know.

[pits200]

Great job and thanks for the diy.

Don't forget for the front 5hsy when you lower a car it will require new endlinks. Now that your car sits lower, it is going to cause there to be load on the sway when it's static before it even even goes into a turn. Or it is going to rotate the sway upwards past the ideal angle for
handling.

You may want to look into adjustable endlinks for the front of the car which will allow you slightly longer endlinks.

[Maverik259]

Hahahaha yes! Thank you for someone for finally doing this! I asked this exact question why no one has done this in the eibach thread. Congrats!

[menelaos]

Is the process similar for vehicles w/o self levelling, meaning that process in the front will apply to rear as well?

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by menelaos

Is the process similar for vehicles w/o self levelling, meaning that process in the front will apply to rear as well?

No the rear is completely different. But will
Be easier than front. You don't have struts in the rear. I would assume just remove wheels. Disconnect shocks from lower assembly. And just let the springs fall out. Again this is a very basic rough not exact or accurate assessment. Just assuming it's similar to other vehicles.

[Chigger]

Wow, nice write-up!

[TallGuyX5]

Originally Posted by Dilmorecg

F15 X5 Air Ride Spring Install DIY

I tackled this job this last weekend and since no one has posted a detailed DIY, I thought I would put one up. If you have ever swapped springs on other cars the process is basically the same.

Please forgive the dirty car in the pics.

Disclaimer: This is only meant as a guide. I am not responsible for your actions or anything you do to your car or any damage or injury that might occur. Continue reading only if you agree.

Products I used:

Eibach front springs for 50i, purchased: https://www.tunershop.com/shop/eibac...6-pro-kit.html thanks to F15Fan

Rear Links: http://www.loweringlinks.net/ They don’t have them for our car on the site…you will have to email him.





Before/After Measurements Fender to Ground:
Front Before: 31.25" ; Front After: 30.25" (-1")
Rear Before: 31.25" ; Rear After: 30.25" (-1")

Before:


After:


These pictures don’t do it justice. It looks waaaay better now. There are pleanty of other before/after posts if you search.

Tools Needed:


- Electric Screwdriver with 8mm, 10mm sockets & t-25 torx bits – you can also use ratchets screwdrivers etc. but its easier getting plastics off with power tools
- Shock Pinch tool
- Flat Head Screwdrivers – various sizes
- 18mm & 21mm open ended wrenches
- 10mm, 13mm 3/8" sockets
- 17mm, 18mm, 21mm ½" socket
- 5mm hex driver
- ½", 3/8" ratchets w/ various extensions
- t-40 torx on a ratchet
- Air wrench & compressor
- Spring compressor tool
- Parts tray
- Rubber or plastic mallet

Step 1) Disconnect Batteries
- Batteries are in trunk under floor
- Remove 8mm screws holding cover and remove cover
- Remove + terminal from both batteries (10mm) and cover or stash to the side


Step 2) Rear Links – easy part
- You do not need to lift the car for this part
- Look under car and locate links

- Remove lower 10mm nut
- Lower down the top of the link so you can access the top 10mm nut
- You may need to use a 3/8" open ended wrench on back of the screw or the whole thing will spin.

- Install new adjustable links at your desired height in reverse.
- The factory links in my car were 2.83" center to center. The new links I put in were 2.55" center to center


Step 3) Plastic covers
- There are 4 plastic covers that need to be removed to access the top of the spring/shock
- Very top plastic can be removed by pulling up the Velcro toward the front of the car the pulling up on the tabs in the back – it should lift right up

- The next level of plastic is held on by t-25 torx screws and 10mm bolts
- Remove the center section first, then the cabin filter cover (tabs only) on the passenger side, then both sections on either side. There is one plastic push tab thing that you need a screwdriver or trim removal tool to take out
- Once those are removed you should have access.


Step 4) Lift up front of car, put on jack stands and remove front wheels

Step 5) Remove spring/shocks – hard part
- Open boxes that hold the connectors for the brake/wheel speed sensor plugs and the shock plugs. Pull out and disconnect connectors – use small screwdriver to pull tabs – be careful not to break any tabs

- Remove pinch bolt at bottom of shock (18mm) – keep brake sensor wire/speed sensor wire attached
- Remove bracket holding brake sensor wire toward front of the car (5mm hex) – 2 bolts & string wires aside – not marked in pic – just to the left of the pinch bolt.
- Remove bolt at the bottom of shock mount (21mm) – I used an open ended to loosen nut then the air gun to get it out.
- Loosen top 3 nuts holding the top shock mount under the hood (13mm) – keep 1 or 2 of these nuts loose but still on.
- I also disconnected the swaybar end link (18mm + t-40 torx) so it was easier to hold the hub down to remove the shock.

- Separate strut pinch point using your tool and lube up the bottom of strut

- This is the hard part – I needed a 2nd person to push down/step on the hub/brake. There is barely any room and it took several tries. The trick I got to work is to turn the wheel/hub toward the center of the car (Steering wheel left on the passenger side; steering wheel right on the driver side). This gave me just enough room to slide the bottom of the shock out of the shock mount.
- Once its free you can loosen and remove the top 13mm nuts. Make sure the spring/shock assembly doesn’t fall.
- Take to your bench – use the spring compressor to compress the springs enough to get the top shock nut off (18mm – Air Gun). BE VERY CAREFUL…SPRING COMPRESSORS ARE DANGEROUS TOOLS. I have a spring compressor that bolts around the spring so it cant slip off. Forgive the mess in the pictures…too many projects going at once.

- Remove spring and put back together in same order with new spring. You should be able to get the 18mm nut started without compressing the new spring then tighten it down. I think you are supposed to use a special tool for this but I have always just used an air gun. Before you tighten make sure it is lined up. The spring/shock mount will only go in 1 way at the top and bottom. Mine had a blue line that had to be lined up with the pin on the bottom of the shock. Do this before you tighten the 18mm bolt down because it is very hard to spin in once it's tight.

- Just do the reverse to get everything back together. It should be a little easier to get the shock back in the mount at the bottom now that its shorter but still a pain. 2nd person needed for this part too.
- Make sure you tighten the very bottom bolt while the hub is jacked up so it doesn’t stretch the bushing.

- I don’t have torque specs for any of the bolts/nuts. I searched all over to try and find them but was not able to – I tightened as tight as I could for the bottom 21mm bolt/nut. Strut pinch (18mm) is probably about 70 foot lbs. Top 13mm are hard hand tight. – IF ANYONE HAS THESE SPECS PLEASE POST SO I CAN DO IT CORRECTLY AND WILL UPDATE THIS DIY.
- Put all the plastics back, wheels back on (104 ft lb torque).

Step 6) GET AN ALIGNMENT
- Anytime you do suspension modifications always get an alignment

If you have any suggestions to make this DIY better please let me know.

Great job! So how is the ride and handling? Can really tell much difference compared to the stock springs? Are you running 21" tires?

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by pits200

Great job and thanks for the diy.

Don't forget for the front 5hsy when you lower a car it will require new endlinks. Now that your car sits lower, it is going to cause there to be load on the sway when it's static before it even even goes into a turn. Or it is going to rotate the sway upwards past the ideal angle for
handling.

You may want to look into adjustable endlinks for the front of the car which will allow you slightly longer endlinks.

Ive never heard anyone mention adjustable sway bar links on this forum when lowering their vehicles. Makes sense. I will probably leave it as is since it didn't go down that much.

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by TallGuyX5

Great job! So how is the ride and handling? Can really tell much difference compared to the stock springs? Are you running 21" tires?

I have stock 20" wheels. Ride and handling feel exactly the same...which is one of the reasons I went with Eibach instead of H&R. I believe Eibach designs their springs to go with the factory dampers so they are probably very similar spring rates so it should feel the same, just sit lower.

I was really happy with the way my car handled before and Im glad this mod didnt change that...just made it look better.

edit: I have the Dynamic Handling Package btw, so it handled great before.

[pits200]

Originally Posted by Dilmorecg

Ive never heard anyone mention adjustable sway bar links on this forum when lowering their vehicles. Makes sense. I will probably leave it as is since it didn't go down that much.

You're right but it's best practice to keep semi proper suspension geometry after lowering a car.

[Maverik259]

Lol oh cmon man. Love when people reply to a mile long post that has pictures so it just makes scrolling take forever! And that much harder to enjoy this thread. :

[fosterelli]

Yeah, come on TallGuy, edit your post and delete the quoted portion for us...we can't have the thread being as tall as you!

Hill country folks are always pulling pranks on us...just because y'all have Titos and Deep Eddy doesn't mean jack. We got you beat...flat ground, no trees, swampy bayous, high crime rates, trash everywhere, and all sorts of other reasons to hate...don't give us another my brother!

[gtrsam]

You also do not need to use a spring compressor if you have an impact gun. Simply impact it off and it hardly pops off .

[TallGuyX5]

Okay, sorry....won't repost a long post. Thanks for the feedback.

[BobBeau]

How is the ride now? I bought the ACS kit but had to remove the lowering links and put the stock ones back on because it rode like complete shit. It rides just like stock now with only the front springs but has more of a rake than what I want.

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by gtrsam

You also do not need to use a spring compressor if you have an impact gun. Simply impact it off and it hardly pops off .

Good to know. I don't like to do that since springs have so much force behind them so I never try to take them apart without the spring compressors. The threads are really tall on the shock which is probably why it works on these cars.

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by BobBeau

How is the ride now? I bought the ACS kit but had to remove the lowering links and put the stock ones back on because it rode like complete shit. It rides just like stock now with only the front springs but has more of a rake than what I want.

I think it rides fine. A little harsh over bumps when going slow in the rear...speed bumps, steep driveways, etc.

I think I have the rear a little lower than I like for looks now that I have had them on for a week or so. I think I am going to raise it up slightly in the rear...probably 2 turns on the links. It almost looks like the rear is lower and the gap is smaller...which I dont like. Measurements show exactly 1" lower both front and rear though.

[BobBeau]

Originally Posted by Dilmorecg

I think it rides fine. A little harsh over bumps when going slow in the rear...speed bumps, steep driveways, etc.

I think I have the rear a little lower than I like for looks now that I have had them on for a week or so. I think I am going to raise it up slightly in the rear...probably 2 turns on the links. It almost looks like the rear is lower and the gap is smaller...which I dont like. Measurements show exactly 1" lower both front and rear though.

Let me know if the ride changes after you change the rear height if you don't mind. Wouldn't mind putting them back on if the ride wasn't so bad. a couple of local shops said they could adjust the rear leveling sensors and code it but not sure the results in ride comfort would be much different.

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by BobBeau

Let me know if the ride changes after you change the rear height if you don't mind. Wouldn't mind putting them back on if the ride wasn't so bad. a couple of local shops said they could adjust the rear leveling sensors and code it but not sure the results in ride comfort would be much different.

I raised it up 2 turns on the links and it measured up about 1/4" (-3/4" from stock FTG in the rear). That little bit made a big difference in how it looks. It doesn't look as squat in the back as before and the wheel gaps match pretty good now.

I think the ride is better now too. Not as harsh in the back going over big bumps at slow speed. I didn't notice a change at driving speed when I changed the suspension initially and its the same now.

[BobBeau]

Originally Posted by Dilmorecg

I raised it up 2 turns on the links and it measured up about 1/4" (-3/4" from stock FTG in the rear). That little bit made a big difference in how it looks. It doesn't look as squat in the back as before and the wheel gaps match pretty good now.

I think the ride is better now too. Not as harsh in the back going over big bumps at slow speed. I didn't notice a change at driving speed when I changed the suspension initially and its the same now.

Thanks for the update! Did you unplug the leveling sensors before removing the links and was the vehicle off or in accessory mode?

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by BobBeau

Thanks for the update! Did you unplug the leveling sensors before removing the links and was the vehicle off or in accessory mode?

I unplugged the batteries...took the positive off before I did anything.

[Maverik259]

Can you reuse the bolts on the oem rear links? Got a set of rear links from a member and they didn't come with bolts/screws attached to them.