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      08-01-2018, 09:33 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Can you reuse the bolts on the oem rear links? Got a set of rear links from a member and they didn't come with bolts/screws attached to them.
I would assume you can if they are the correct threads. The OEM ones are self locking nuts so they shouldn't come off if they fit.
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      08-01-2018, 11:02 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Can you reuse the bolts on the oem rear links? Got a set of rear links from a member and they didn't come with bolts/screws attached to them.
I would assume you can if they are the correct threads. The OEM ones are self locking nuts so they shouldn't come off if they fit.
Thanks. Talked to the seller and he said the oem bolts just pop out of the links and he used those. Albeit I'm a little surprised the Eibach links didn't come with some already attached.
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      09-14-2018, 11:36 PM   #25
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Well I'm 3/4 of the way through this job and it is not going as smoothly as yours. Screwed myslf by not removing the caliper the first to which made life miserable trying to not putt too much pressure on that rubber line. And then when putting that side back together I forgot where the hoses and lines went and I ended up crossing some up so had to undo everything again and redo it. Then my passenger side strut I couldn't get the 18mm bolt over th top of the perch to save my life. It just kept spinning and it was out far enough for me to get anything else around the nut so I could get the T40 in to stop the shock plunger from spinning. Eventually got enough of an angle with an open ended wrench to grab a few teeth to loosen it and then I wanted to hook my drill up to get it off quickly due to the minimal grip I had. Then like an idiot I forgot which way I was turning the T40 and ended up tightening everything back up. Clearly about Tossed this strut across the garage and in frustration but eventually got it off.

It struck midnight so I decided to call it quits here but at least I got both rears done, the driver side done, and got my caliper and rotor painted black! Soon as I get the passenger side back on I'll paint it black. Jack up the rear put on my new spacers and then paint those calipers and rotors to match.

Either way thank you again OP for the write up.
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      10-29-2018, 09:37 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Well I'm 3/4 of the way through this job and it is not going as smoothly as yours. Screwed myslf by not removing the caliper the first to which made life miserable trying to not putt too much pressure on that rubber line. And then when putting that side back together I forgot where the hoses and lines went and I ended up crossing some up so had to undo everything again and redo it. Then my passenger side strut I couldn't get the 18mm bolt over th top of the perch to save my life. It just kept spinning and it was out far enough for me to get anything else around the nut so I could get the T40 in to stop the shock plunger from spinning. Eventually got enough of an angle with an open ended wrench to grab a few teeth to loosen it and then I wanted to hook my drill up to get it off quickly due to the minimal grip I had. Then like an idiot I forgot which way I was turning the T40 and ended up tightening everything back up. Clearly about Tossed this strut across the garage and in frustration but eventually got it off.

It struck midnight so I decided to call it quits here but at least I got both rears done, the driver side done, and got my caliper and rotor painted black! Soon as I get the passenger side back on I'll paint it black. Jack up the rear put on my new spacers and then paint those calipers and rotors to match.

Either way thank you again OP for the write up.
I know its been like 6 weeks since you completed this, but i'll be tackling it this weekend. Why did you take off the calipers? The OP never mentions doing that. I'm just wondering if itll help with the install.
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      10-29-2018, 06:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vastano View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Well I'm 3/4 of the way through this job and it is not going as smoothly as yours. Screwed myslf by not removing the caliper the first to which made life miserable trying to not putt too much pressure on that rubber line. And then when putting that side back together I forgot where the hoses and lines went and I ended up crossing some up so had to undo everything again and redo it. Then my passenger side strut I couldn't get the 18mm bolt over th top of the perch to save my life. It just kept spinning and it was out far enough for me to get anything else around the nut so I could get the T40 in to stop the shock plunger from spinning. Eventually got enough of an angle with an open ended wrench to grab a few teeth to loosen it and then I wanted to hook my drill up to get it off quickly due to the minimal grip I had. Then like an idiot I forgot which way I was turning the T40 and ended up tightening everything back up. Clearly about Tossed this strut across the garage and in frustration but eventually got it off.

It struck midnight so I decided to call it quits here but at least I got both rears done, the driver side done, and got my caliper and rotor painted black! Soon as I get the passenger side back on I'll paint it black. Jack up the rear put on my new spacers and then paint those calipers and rotors to match.

Either way thank you again OP for the write up.
I know its been like 6 weeks since you completed this, but i'll be tackling it this weekend. Why did you take off the calipers? The OP never mentions doing that. I'm just wondering if itll help with the install.
I took the passenger side off cuz the brake line was a pain in the ass to deal with. It's too short and spent more time stressing over not tearing it cuz it's the only thing left attached that keeps the hub from dropping all the way down. It was a struggle on the driver side and doing myself i just decided to remove it on the passenger. I have caliper hangars so I just attached to the upper wishbone and it made life much easier.
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      10-31-2018, 02:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
I took the passenger side off cuz the brake line was a pain in the ass to deal with. It's too short and spent more time stressing over not tearing it cuz it's the only thing left attached that keeps the hub from dropping all the way down. It was a struggle on the driver side and doing myself i just decided to remove it on the passenger. I have caliper hangars so I just attached to the upper wishbone and it made life much easier.
I see, thanks for the reply. I think i'm going to make a DIY for non-air suspension spring swap since the forum doesnt have one, should be fairly straightforward.
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      10-31-2018, 08:45 PM   #29
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Is trimming the front bump stops required? Just got my H&R springs in. There are no directions which is fine but with no directions comes no mention of the bump stops.
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      11-01-2018, 08:57 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mikew2069 View Post
Is trimming the front bump stops required? Just got my H&R springs in. There are no directions which is fine but with no directions comes no mention of the bump stops.
No need to change bump stops as not low enough of s drop. If you were going KW and making it like an M3 or M5 then maybe
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      11-01-2018, 10:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
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No need to change bump stops as not low enough of s drop. If you were going KW and making it like an M3 or M5 then maybe
Cool. My last vehicle was only 1.2” drop and required new bumps so you never know.
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      11-01-2018, 11:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikew2069 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
No need to change bump stops as not low enough of s drop. If you were going KW and making it like an M3 or M5 then maybe
Cool. My last vehicle was only 1.2" drop and required new bumps so you never know.
Was it an SUV? Lots of travel on suv shocks nevertheless you'll be good!
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      11-02-2018, 07:12 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Was it an SUV? Lots of travel on suv shocks nevertheless you'll be good!
Looking forward to getting some bruises and bloody knuckles this weekend!
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      11-02-2018, 07:17 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikew2069 View Post
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Was it an SUV? Lots of travel on suv shocks nevertheless you'll be good!
Looking forward to getting some bruises and bloody knuckles this weekend!
It was a lot of fun. Let us know if you got any wuestions
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      11-04-2018, 07:31 PM   #35
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Knocked this out today. Mine has standard suspension, so four springs. The rears were cake. The fronts were a beast for one person to do with this DIY. I got it done with the help of the wife but if you're going at this solo, I'd recommend disconnecting the Upper control arm from the carrier. I think that's the only way to get it done in a one man show.... I did not remove calipers nor did I have issues with brake line clearance.
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      11-05-2018, 08:35 AM   #36
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I completed this this past weekend and this was a HUGE help. A couple notes from my install:

1.) turning the wheel to the interior of the vehicle is a must.

2.) spray some lube, I used PB blaster on the base of the front shock

3.) I used the spring compressor on the first side I did, but noticed there just wasnt much tension on the spring. I decided not to use them on the other side and the top hat popped ~ 1/2". If I do it again, I personally wont use the compressors.

4.) when installing the new (in my case Eibach) springs, place the spring on the strut, twist it until it seats properly, then put he top hate on, twist it until you cant twist any more, then put the top nut on. Its fairly simple to press down on the top hate to get the nut started on the shock.

5.) Although the vehicle drove great, it wasn't bouncy, the steering wheel was centered, it didnt pull at all...I still went and got an alignment and I'm glad I did, it was completely out of spec.

For those of you without airbags in the rear, I made a DIY for the spring removal here:

https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1#post23946311
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      07-18-2019, 02:40 PM   #37
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Has anyone be able to source a good set of adjustable end links for the fronts?

Did a quick search, and no luck.

Thanks!
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      07-18-2019, 07:21 PM   #38
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This is EXACTLY why I am so glad Ben at RGSport is only 30 min away.

He did mine- Eibachs in about an hour.

I applaud you for doing this by yourself!!!

Last edited by parkstr8; 07-23-2019 at 07:45 PM..
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      07-19-2019, 04:07 PM   #39
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This is EXACTLY why I am so glad Ben at RGSport is only 30 min away.

He did mine Eibachs in about an hour.

I applaud you for doing this by yourself!!!
Once you do it a few times, its a really easy job. I have it down to 30min for the rear and an hour for the fronts. That's in my garage without a lift.
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      07-20-2019, 11:49 AM   #40
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Great write up!

I made my own links I'll put up a how to today so anyone that is willing can make them for under $15.00 and about 5 mins of your time...save some cash for other mods lol.
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      07-21-2019, 11:21 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkstr8 View Post
This is EXACTLY why I am so glad Ben at RGSport is only 30 min away.

He did mine Eibachs in about an hour.

I applaud you for doing this by yourself!!!
Once you do it a few times, its a really easy job. I have it down to 30min for the rear and an hour for the fronts. That's in my garage without a lift.
You can replace the full front set of springs in an hour...? Mike Mike Mike....don't make me ask you to prove it lol.

Rears totally. But the fronts. Cmon. Maybe an hour per side. Plus how many times have you had to redo your springs completely?
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      07-21-2019, 09:27 PM   #42
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You can replace the full front set of springs in an hour...? Mike Mike Mike....don't make me ask you to prove it lol.

Rears totally. But the fronts. Cmon. Maybe an hour per side. Plus how many times have you had to redo your springs completely?
I’ve done the fronts 4 times now and the rears 5-6 times.

I guess I need to clarify that I’ve been swapping out my Silvers coilovers and KW coilovers for testing so they’re a little easier to get out than the stock struts. Also I keep all of the crap in the engine bay removed that covers the top strut mounts so that alone saves 20min... but yea once you have the wheel off, it’s three bolts, slide that lower fork out of the way, three bolts up top and bam, it’s out. 30min per front corner tops.
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      07-22-2019, 03:20 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikew2069 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
You can replace the full front set of springs in an hour...? Mike Mike Mike....don't make me ask you to prove it lol.

Rears totally. But the fronts. Cmon. Maybe an hour per side. Plus how many times have you had to redo your springs completely?
I've done the fronts 4 times now and the rears 5-6 times.

I guess I need to clarify that I've been swapping out my Silvers coilovers and KW coilovers for testing so they're a little easier to get out than the stock struts. Also I keep all of the crap in the engine bay removed that covers the top strut mounts so that alone saves 20min... but yea once you have the wheel off, it's three bolts, slide that lower fork out of the way, three bolts up top and bam, it's out. 30min per front corner tops.
Haha gotcha. That makes sense and didn't realize you were doing that. How's that going!
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      07-22-2019, 04:16 PM   #44
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DIY for making your own links...

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25056225
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