F15 N63TU Crankcase Ventilation Assembly Replacement Guide

[alphaod]

Note (07/04/2019):
Went to dealer for service yesterday, found this little comment:

SI B01 12 18 (DC 11 15 90 01 00) FOR THIS VEHICLE, THE ENGINE CRANKCASE VENTILATION LINES WARRANTY FOR DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP HAS BEEN EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS/120,000 MILE AS DETERMINED FROM ORIGINAL IN-SERVICE DATE.

So there you have it, if you are within 10 years or 120,000 mi go to the dealer for a replacement. Don’t waste your hard earned monies doing this DIY.

F15 N63TU Crankcase Ventilation Assembly Replacement Guide

After reading about the problem with our ventilation hoses and mine had a small crack, I decided to replace mine and document the process. There is a DIY - 50i Spark Plugs guide by Maverik259 that you may want to follow if you wish to do your spark plugs service as well since both involve removing common parts.

I created this one to address some issues I encountered and to help future DIY fixers.

If you wish to only fix the commonly broken connection hose, stop at step #4.

Parts needed:
11-15-8-647-962 "Vent Pipe" (It's a big contraption with valves and everything)
11-15-8-647-298 "Connecting Line" (The part that commonly breaks first)

Tools needed:
3/8" Socket wrench
Torx T30 socket
8mm Hex Socket
Short socket wrench extension
Needlenose pliers

Safely precautions:
Safety glasses
Work gloves
Adequate lighting

Warning:
Because you are working inside the engine bay please ensure that your engine block is cooled down. Because many of the plastic parts used by BMW have become brittle (the reason we are replacing these hoses), it is very likely for the parts to break into small sharp pieces during removal process therefore use of eye protection and gloves are highly suggested.

Note:
In all directions of left and right are relative to you as you work from front of the car facing the engine. All screws are Torx T30 except when indicated.


Step 1:
Remove the rear engine cover.



Step 2:
First we start with the commonly broken connecting hose. As the left side expansion tank is covering the connecting hose plug, you need to move it out of the way. Start with left side and remove the screws shown. After the hex screw is removed you can lift up the expansion tank and move it out of the way as its hoses are all flexible.



Step 3:
Remove remaining screw holding the expansion tank bracket and lift the expansion tank adapter out of the way. You should now be able to see the connecting hose to the engine.



Step 4:
Follow this hose to see the engine side. The hose is held to the engine with two clips and looks the same on both ends. According to the design of the connector you are suppose to depress the two sides that are grooved to force the clips to move away so you can pull the connector off. I have found this is impossible because (1) the plastic is brittle (2) there isn’t much room to work with. For optional instruction, please go to Step X below.



Step 5:
Now we work on the ventilation valve assembly.



Step 6:
We now go the right side of the engine. We start by removing the screws.



Step 7:
To remove the valve assembly, first lift up the wire holder assembly and rotate the right side valve clock-wise approximately 30º; then lift up to remove. It is keyed so you need to rotate it and the holder is in the way. It will be very easy to remove when the key is in the notch in the engine. Do not forcibly remove; you do not want to try to retrieve broken plastic in your engine.



Step 8:
On the left side the steps are the same, except you need to rotate the connector approximately 30º counter-clockwise before you can pull the connector out.





Step 9:
Remove the connectors to the intake hoses. These are the same connectors as the connecting hose just bigger in size.



Step 10:
You have now removed the valve assembly and ready to installation of the replacement part. Follow this guide in the reverse.



Step X:
If you cannot remove these types of connector locks, you may need to employ the destructive method. WARNING: You cannot reuse the connector if you do this.



Before:



After:

[DuSh]

Thank you for the DIY! Pictures are damn crystal clear too!

[Silververtu]

Thanks for the write up! You make it look so easy. How long did it take you?

[Maverik259]

Nothing shows for the second part number. You sure it's correct?

[alphaod]

Originally Posted by Silververtu

Thanks for the write up! You make it look so easy. How long did it take you?

It took me about 45 minutes. The majority of the time was figuring how to take apart the plastic connectors only to finally give up and just use the destructive method, and figuring out why the screwed in valves did not pull out when I removed the screws.

Overall I think this should take no more than 30 minutes.

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Nothing shows for the second part number. You sure it's correct?

Looks like I made a typo, I have corrected the OP. The correct part is 11-15-8-647-298

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by alphaod

It took me about 45 minutes. The majority of the time was figuring how to take apart the plastic connectors only to finally give up and just use the destructive method, and figuring out why the screwed in valves did not pull out when I removed the screws.

Overall I think this should take no more than 30 minutes.

Looks like I made a typo, I have corrected the OP. The correct part is 11-15-8-647-298

There we go! Ya a shame how expensive the other piece is. I replaced the first one when I did my plugs but couldn't justify the $300 for the other piece of rubber and plastic lol

[BKRCustoms1]

Yeah, I hope the pieces of broken plastic tabs, don't find their way into anything critical. Did mine before I saw this thread.

[alphaod]

Went to dealer for service yesterday, found this little comment:

SI B01 12 18 (DC 11 15 90 01 00) FOR THIS VEHICLE, THE ENGINE CRANKCASE VENTILATION LINES WARRANTY FOR DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP HAS BEEN EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS/120,000 MILE AS DETERMINED FROM ORIGINAL IN-SERVICE DATE.

So there you have it, if you are within 10 years or 120,000 mi go to the dealer for a replacement. Don’t waste your hard earned monies doing this DIY.

[CT335xi]

Originally Posted by alphaod

Went to dealer for service yesterday, found this little comment:


So there you have it, if you are within 10 years or 120,000 mi go to the dealer for a replacement. Don’t waste your hard earned monies doing this DIY.

Funny that you mentioned this just brought mine in cause it was running crappy and drivetrain malfunction was on again, last time they gave me new plugs and coils. This time they tell me it needs the crankcase ventilation hoses. So awesome more money in my pocket, I was dreading doing these and spending all that money on some hoses that should of been on the car to begin with!!

[Maverik259]

Haha well that would have been nice last year when I had to replace this on my own. Ugh. I assume the warranty is just when it breaks and not a preemptive replacement like it should be.

[expertsedan]

I called a couple of dealerships near me, they are not willing to do this under extended warranty saying my VIN is prior to the SIB date, but 2012 650 with the same engine is covered... I just couldn't understand the logic behind that.
Called BMW NA, they said just take my car to the dealership if they are not willing to do it just call back..... ps: BMW NA can't see this SIB related to my VIN, the only thing they can see are injectors and some sort of pressure test module.
Seems I am in a never-ending loop to get this done under warranty, might just do it myself at the end of the day.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by expertsedan

I called a couple of dealerships near me, they are not willing to do this under extended warranty saying my VIN is prior to the SIB date, but 2012 650 with the same engine is covered... I just couldn't understand the logic behind that.
Called BMW NA, they said just take my car to the dealership if they are not willing to do it just call back..... ps: BMW NA can't see this SIB related to my VIN, the only thing they can see are injectors and some sort of pressure test module.
Seems I am in a never-ending loop to get this done under warranty, might just do it myself at the end of the day.

What year are you?

[expertsedan]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

What year are you?

It's a 2014

[CT335xi]

Originally Posted by expertsedan

It's a 2014

Mines is a 2014 and they just did mine, I payed nothing. Good luck I’m sure it will all work out.

[expertsedan]

Originally Posted by CT335xi

Mines is a 2014 and they just did mine, I payed nothing. Good luck I’m sure it will all work out.

I went to the dealership today and they even called BMW NA to confirm that the SIB is not showing up for my vin. So I end up bought the parts for $94 and gonna swap the crack one out myself.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by expertsedan

I went to the dealership today and they even called BMW NA to confirm that the SIB is not showing up for my vin. So I end up bought the parts for $94 and gonna swap the crack one out myself.

Well it's easy and there's a DIY. Good luck. Although I would replace both FYI.

[expertsedan]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Well it's easy and there's a DIY. Good luck. Although I would replace both FYI.

Yeah that what I'm gonna do. Thx!

[HydroStream6]

2014 X5 50i here and both of these parts are cracked and leaking. Called the dealer, and they say there's no bulletin for my VIN. Called BMW NA, and they confirmed that my vehicle isn't covered either. The rep said that it could be specific to which production line the vehicle came off of. Seems like BS considering BMW changed the design and they clearly fail way too early. The only advice she had was to take the vehicle to the dealer and have them write a report and then see if they could maybe get support in getting it covered.

Any other ideas? Last 7 of my VIN are 0C03307.

Thanks!
Adam

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

2014 X5 50i here and both of these parts are cracked and leaking. Called the dealer, and they say there's no bulletin for my VIN. Called BMW NA, and they confirmed that my vehicle isn't covered either. The rep said that it could be specific to which production line the vehicle came off of. Seems like BS considering BMW changed the design and they clearly fail way too early. The only advice she had was to take the vehicle to the dealer and have them write a report and then see if they could maybe get support in getting it covered.

Any other ideas? Last 7 of my VIN are 0C03307.

Thanks!
Adam

Do it yourself. That's what this thread is for after all. It's a DIY on how to fix it. Don't want to muddy the waters with this side issues.

[NERO X]

My dealer and BMW will not cover my 2014 50i. Some BS reason they didn't include MY2014's. Probably calculated that they would loose too much money in lost parts sales!

I thought I saw someone comment that they were able to replace the cracked hoses with simple rubber hoses and clamps instead of the $300-400 dollar BMW parts, but I can't find it anywhere. Does anybody have any details on how they actually fixed this themselves with simple hoses? Seems ridiculous costs for such a simple part.

[HydroStream6]

Cheaper alternative for the smaller hose here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BMW-Cra...f-6d699a064666

For the larger hose, get some heater hose or vacuum hose with the correct diameter and cut to length and use hose clamps. I did these two methods for mine and so far, so good.

FWIW I'd investigate and get the larger hose and the smaller hose above before you start working so you're prepared. You'll most likely break both when you repair the other.

[~ViO~]

Hi, are dealerships replacing this on request from owners in good faith for preventive maintenance.. Or do you need to actually be having issues.. As mine is fine so far.. Knock on wood!