Something Every X5M owner should check every 80-100k miles.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Most F85/86's are well under 100K miles but I thought I would also post this here for future use and for the few that are or about to have their warranty expire:

The N63, S63, N63TU, and S63TU used in the E70, F15, & F85 are unique in that they all share the same oil pump and drive chain design up to the 2018 model year. Unlike the S63 & S63TU used in the M5, this chain drive does not have a tensioner so it is very likely and almost certain the drive chain will eventually become loose and is something that should be checked every 80-100K miles. I recently checked mine after reading some stories of engine failure and was lucky I did, it was more then 10 times out of spec and about to fall off.

BMW made access to the oil pump and chain adjuster pretty straight forward. It will only add an extra hour or so to your normal oil change time. As a bonus, the lower pan gasket that is notorious for leaking as these engines age is replaced as part of the process. Below are instructions, parts and tools needed plus a short video on the adjustment procedure.



Parts Needed (parts are the same for all engines and all platforms):
(1) Lower Pan Gasket # 11137566808 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-11137566808
(25) Oil Pan Bolts # 07129909333 (you can save money and use Loctite 242 or other removable Loctite on old bolts) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-07129909333
(6) Reinforcement plate bolts (Do not reuse, these are one time use only) #33306772888 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-33306772888
Gasket Tack: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006.../dp/B000HBNV9E



Tools Needed:

Torque Wrench
Torque Wrench Angle Gauge
Cordless Ratchet (highly recommended, 31 bolts to remove and reinstall)
3/8" extensions
8mm long reach hex socket
T45 Torx socket
E10 External Torx socket
16mm Socket

Instructions (short video below with more details on chain adjustment):


1 - Drive up on 4 ramps or jack up truck as level as possible.
2 - Drain Oil, Reinstall oil drain plug.
3 - Remove the Reinforcment plate.



4 - Remove Oil level sensor connector(Fig.1)
5- Remove the 25 E10 Torx bolts (Fig.2) holding on the lower engine pan (Fig.3).



6 - Remove the oil pump rear T45 torx bolt (Fig.2)



7 - Tighten chain adjuster using 8mm hex socket (see video for more info)
8 - Adjust to 10-12mm total (5-6mm side to side) chain movement.
9 - Reinstall Oil Pump T45 Torx bolt, tighten to 27Nm.
10 - Clean lower oil pan and Install new gasket, (ridged side faces towards engine), use gasket tack to keep in place.
11 - Replace 25 E10 Torx bolts with new or apply removable Loctite 242 to threads if reusing the old bolts and install lower pan. Tighten in standard crisscross pattern all bolts first to 10Nm, then 24Nm.
12 - Replace oil filter & refill oil.
13 - Install reinforcement plate and Tighten new bolts to 56Nm, then use Torque Angle Gauge and further tighten an additional 90 degrees.

[ekological]

Good stuff! I just watched this teardown yesterday and was surprised to see the chain flopping around (30 minute and 53 second mark):

[musa]

So thankful for your post! Are there signs/symptoms when this starts happening? I wonder if it could happen before 80k miles. This sounds like a preventative maintenance item that should be done at the earliest opportunity.

[pachieh]

Interesting… just like a bike chain, chain stretch here is still a thing. Good to know and to watch for!

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ekological

Good stuff! I just watched this teardown yesterday and was surprised to see the chain flopping around (30 minute and 53 second mark):

Thanks! Ya I think it was a flaw not to include a dynamic tensioner but wow that video kinda rips on these engines and that is the first gen N63, the S63TU in the in the F85 has variable valve lift and even more parts then previous gen, his mind would have melted...Yes they are complicated but I am at 171K miles original engine , and still knocking out 3.8 0-60 and low 12's in a near 10 year old 5500lb tank.....Can't complain.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by musa

So thankful for your post! Are there signs/symptoms when this starts happening? I wonder if it could happen before 80k miles. This sounds like a preventative maintenance item that should be done at the earliest opportunity.

Couldn't hear anything but not surprising, the direct injection is so loud its hard to hear anything over the injectors.

Possible it could happen before 80K, really depends on how the engine was assembled and how it was driven. The engine in the video had 171K miles on it so its a pretty extreme example, however my buddy did his F85 after seeing mine (he has 76K miles on his) and it was about halfway as loose as mine, probably not in danger of slipping off the sprocket but still out of spec buy quite a bit and he was glad he checked and adjusted it for peace of mind on a 20,000+ dollar engine.

IMHO, it is definitely something to check if you just purchased a F85 with some serious miles on it or your warranty is about up. If it the chain were to slip off, you would have only a few seconds to shut down the engine before catastrophic engine damage occurs as the low oil pressure warning does not trigger until pressure drops below 7psi in all S63 engines.

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Most F85/86's are well under 100K miles but I thought I would also post this here for future use and for the few that are or about to have their warranty expire:

The N63, S63, N63TU, and S63TU used in the E70, F15, & F85 are unique in that they all share the same oil pump and drive chain design up to the 2018 model year. Unlike the S63 & S63TU used in the M5, this chain drive does not have a tensioner so it is very likely and almost certain the drive chain will eventually become loose and is something that should be checked every 80-100K miles. I recently checked mine after reading some stories of engine failure and was lucky I did, it was more then 10 times out of spec and about to fall off.

BMW made access to the oil pump and chain adjuster pretty straight forward. It will only add an extra hour or so to your normal oil change time. As a bonus, the lower pan gasket that is notorious for leaking as these engines age is replaced as part of the process. Below are instructions, parts and tools needed plus a short video on the adjustment procedure.



Parts Needed (parts are the same for all engines and all platforms):
(1) Lower Pan Gasket # 11137566808 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-11137566808
(25) Oil Pan Bolts # 07129909333 (you can save money and use Loctite 242 or other removable Loctite on old bolts) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-07129909333
(6) Reinforcement plate bolts (Do not reuse, these are one time use only) #33306772888 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-33306772888
Gasket Tack: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006.../dp/B000HBNV9E



Tools Needed:

Torque Wrench
Torque Wrench Angle Gauge
Cordless Ratchet (highly recommended, 31 bolts to remove and reinstall)
3/8" extensions
8mm long reach hex socket
T45 Torx socket
E10 External Torx socket
16mm Socket

Instructions (short video below with more details on chain adjustment):


1 - Drive up on 4 ramps or jack up truck as level as possible.
2 - Drain Oil, Reinstall oil drain plug.
3 - Remove the Reinforcment plate.



4 - Remove Oil level sensor connector(Fig.1)
5- Remove the 25 E10 Torx bolts (Fig.2) holding on the lower engine pan (Fig.3).



6 - Remove the oil pump rear T45 torx bolt (Fig.2)



7 - Tighten chain adjuster using 8mm hex socket (see video for more info)
8 - Adjust to 10-12mm total (5-6mm side to side) chain movement.
9 - Reinstall Oil Pump T45 Torx bolt, tighten to 27Nm.
10 - Clean lower oil pan and Install new gasket, (ridged side faces towards engine), use gasket tack to keep in place.
11 - Replace 25 E10 Torx bolts with new or apply removable Loctite 242 to threads if reusing the old bolts and install lower pan. Tighten in standard crisscross pattern all bolts first to 10Nm, then 24Nm.
12 - Replace oil filter & refill oil.
13 - Install reinforcement plate and Tighten new bolts to 56Nm, then use Torque Angle Gauge and further tighten an additional 90 degrees.

I might have this checked soon, even though I'm only at 47K.

[XRatedM]

Thanks for this Sophisticated Redneck! I'm about to hit 90k miles on mine, will do it soon.

[Cbozz]

this is a no brainer on higher milage engines... $15 price of the gasket and an hour of your time is nothing compared to a new engine!!

[SaNGRia]

Bro i am at 34k You made me worry. I really appreciate your time and effort to share this chronic issue. Thank You!

[Qsilver7]

All kind of fantastic info…thanks.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Thanks to all for compliments, hopefully this will help someone on future save a engine. Some more data points would be great though so learn just how prevalent of a problem this is, so if anyone checks their oil pump chain, please report back here with what you find.

[8202632]

Great info. Gonna add this to the maintenence list. I've been noticing a slight metallic bearing like noise when at idle. Esp in a bank drive thru or fast food drive through. Is that a normal sound? Or could it be this issue in the thread? Or is a belt wheel/bearing going bad?

2017
43K miles

[My135i]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Thanks to all for compliments, hopefully this will help someone on future save a engine. Some more data points would be great though so learn just how prevalent of a problem this is, so if anyone checks their oil pump chain, please report back here with what you find.

Thank you for always helping…I finally adjusted mine today when I replaced my lower oil pan gasket! Phew! Mine was loose and surprisingly didn't come off otherwise, il say kiss goodbye to my motor…

[jab23]

Originally Posted by My135i

Thank you for always helping…I finally adjusted mine today when I replaced my lower oil pan gasket! Phew! Mine was loose and surprisingly didn't come off otherwise, il say kiss goodbye to my motor…

How many miles? Thanks.

[My135i]

Originally Posted by jab23

How many miles? Thanks.

65k!

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

I have a chain-like noise mostly when taking off or idle, i wonder if this might be it. It sounds like chain i am 98% positive 😳

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

I have a chain-like noise mostly when taking off or idle, i wonder if this might be it. It sounds like chain i am 98% positive 😳

Well with any luck its just this quick fix. Otherwise it could get expensive. Let us know how you get on.

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Well with any luck its just this quick fix. Otherwise it could get expensive. Let us know how you get on.

Correct, but i just changed my oil 🤦*♂️🤦*♂️🤦*♂️ I might do the next change early and address this chain deal (if thats what making this noise)

[Cbozz]

Ok I did it! I was changing my oil today and decided to take the pan off, I had the pan gasket. I also reused the pan bolts with loctite, I also reused the reinforcement bolts- I’ve taken that shield off a bunch of times always reusing the bolts and never had any issues.

Well after taking it all off I discovered a loose chain- not as loose as in OP video but pretty bad. Mind you I’m at 87k miles now. I ended up tightening the chain and cleaned up the oil pan..
One good tip for when you’re putting the pan back on with the gasket:
Instead of using the gasket tack I used zip ties. Keeps it in perfect position and nothing will move it, no mess and simply cut off and slides out!! Here are some pics and videos!

Before:

And after:

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

Ok I did it! I was changing my oil today and decided to take the pan off, I had the pan gasket. I also reused the pan bolts with loctite, I also reused the reinforcement bolts- I’ve taken that shield off a bunch of times always reusing the bolts and never had any issues.

Question, what does the plate actually do?

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Question, what does the plate actually do?

It’s a skid plate plus it works as a stiffening tool for the chassis.