New owner, F15 XDrive35i ‘Build’

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by osmansiddiqui95

The maintenance I would recommend to get done is air suspension bags, transmission oil, valve cover gasket seal, oil pan gasket seal, oil filter housing gasket. Other than those everything should last.

Air bags up next :-) They are showing signs.

[tlow98]

Alright, back into this machine. Rear-end makeover.



Installed:
- Powerflex Rear Subframe bushings
- Arnott air bags
- Curt 2" hitch
- 25mm wheel spacers
- Compressor maintenance

Pushed for a minute:
- Rear shocks (Bilstein B4s)
- OE BMW Hitch wiring (installed outside, but left the inside for some time when I can concentrate for more than 30 minutes)
- OE towing Module


Curt Hitch Install
- Use the stealth hitch installation directions. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/21...f?v=1619703873
- Use the BMW hitch install instructions for the wiring.



Bumper removal tips.

These are supposed to be push-pins from what I understand, but they wouldn't budge for me. So, this took 1 minute each. Drill out the rivet. Easy money.



If they spin do this:



Pretty soon you'll be here



Rear Elec mount install. I removed the stock self-tappers and used some machine screws with a torq head. It's more secure than I thought it would be! Fitment around the bumper on the Curt hitch was pretty impressive for $260 to my door.




Rear Subframe Bushings
- These really cleaned up the "saggy butt" feeling that modern BMWs have developed. The hollow bushing are installed bc run-flats are rough and the shame of it is they don't allow the shocks and springs to do their job all that well. This leads to hysteresis and secondary motions that can't be damped. I also think they're there to give a greater gap in performance between the M cars, but that's my cynical side. No NVH change that I can tell with these. I'm typically more sensitive than most for NVH. After I installed them I went for a ride and I heard more noise... turned out I forgot to re-install the L & R rear interior panels :-). Putting them back in brought the noise back dow to what I was used to.

- Make sure you unplug the ride height sensors and chassis control modules before you lower the subframe.

- Keep an eye on the rubber brake hoses - don't want to stretch them!

You'll need to remove the underbody panels. This is how I dealt with these. Didn't break a single one. Shocker.



Give a twist and then pull it straight down in one quick motion.



Drop that whole thing from the rear pumpkin and you'll have this.



Then just button them up and you'll be good to go.




Compressor and Bags

- Ditch these, they're garbage.



Refitting the stock rubber hat is probably the hardest part. Love the push-pin style airline connectors on the Arnotts!

Put in the new hotness. 250r head with a fresh play port in the background. Weird flex, I know :-)



Pull your compressor. My desiccant beads were fine. Replaced bc I was in there. Don't buy 1-3mm. Buy slightly larger 2-4 - just my opinion, but I feel like I went wrong here. No biggie tho.



Stock beads



New beads

[tlow98]

Installed the following:

- Front Bilstein B4s
- New OE bump stops
- Lemforder front control arms
- Lemforder lower control arms

So, all four front control arms.

The handling is incredible now. Everything was tired at 74k miles. I was debating how big of an improvement this would be. Rather shocked how much better it handles. It no longer falls into holes and squeaks on big undulations.

Very happy I did it in the end.

[Xolinlevh]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Installed the following:

- Front Bilstein B4s
- New OE bump stops
- Lemforder front control arms
- Lemforder lower control arms

So, all four front control arms.

The handling is incredible now. Everything was tired at 74k miles. I was debating how big of an improvement this would be. Rather shocked how much better it handles. It no longer falls into holes and squeaks on big undulations.

Very happy I did it in the end.

How tough were the control arms? I need to do my front+rears soon

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Xolinlevh

How tough were the control arms? I need to do my front+rears soon

Not terribly tough. The strut was the most time consuming.

The control arms you just have to manage the weight of the spindle + rotor assembly at times. It would be nice to have 6 arms at those times, but completely doable on jack stands in the garage.

Getting the chassis mount bolt on the front control arm requires some finesse and a crow bar at times.

[lonestar22]

interested in seeing where you mounted the plug for the trailer wiring.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by lonestar22

interested in seeing where you mounted the plug for the trailer wiring.

Like an underside shot?

[tlow98]

Recalibrated the transfer case. Foxwell NT530 made it very easy.

Great success.

[tlow98]

Ok more maintenance love for the f15 @ 82k miles.

- transmission filter and fluid change.
- front diff fluid
- rear diff fluid
- rear pads and rotors
- engine oil and filter

The fluids all looked surprisingly good at this mileage as many others have experienced. You can use a Carly unit to track trans temp in order to get the fill level correct.

No change in driving characteristics that I could tell. I take that as a good thing as none of the fluids were too far gone to detect any change.

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

[whoismorggan]

Originally Posted by tlow98

- I preemptively bought the PCV valve and am glad I did. The old cracked one removal despite being pretty careful.

Halfway through...



This PCV valve is made by SKP. Rockauto purchase for $25. I didn't mind the non OE part here because 1) the OE part is garbage & 2) it's very easy to get to and 3) won't leave me stranded. It looked identical to the OE part.

What is the part # for the PCV Valve/hose? Mine also cracked when I was disassembling things to get to the downpipe. Have it taped up now but I need to get it replaced.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by hellyesmorgan

What is the part # for the PCV Valve/hose? Mine also cracked when I was disassembling things to get to the downpipe. Have it taped up now but I need to get it replaced.

11127584128

Hope this helps!

[whoismorggan]

Originally Posted by tlow98

11127584128

Hope this helps!

Appreciate that!

[tlow98]

Started getting an odd rattle in drive and reverse while parked.

First assumption belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Replaced both the tensioner and the idler pulley plus the belt. Noise still persists.

Glad I replaced them - the tensioner had a lot of axial play and was mostly worn out.

Pretty easy to do these without removing the fan. Just tie back the AC lines like such.

View post on imgur.com

Old garbage out!

View post on imgur.com

Then when you forget to put the dust cap on the idler after you reassemble everything. So, you need to McGyver a crow bar with some tape and it snaps back on. Great success!

View post on imgur.com

[tlow98]

The noise I’m getting at idle in drive or reverse is not rpm dependent. Not sure what to think. When I put it in park it disappears.

Happy to hear some suggestions.

[v8mate90]

Love all the maintenance updates! How did you decide what to tackle first? We have a new to us '15 X5 xdrive35i with 38k on it so far and all the records from the dealer but I want to make sure I'm keeping up with the stuff that will be coming up. Anyone have a link to a good list of recommended services at key mileage points?

[Beemer2022@outlook.com]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Hi all,

Appreciate your advice from those of you I've talked to thus far - this is a very informed forum. Love that!

I'm pretty new to F15s, but not BMWs overall. I've been DIY'ing for a couple of decades on BMWs: E36 M3, E46 M3, E90 328i XDrive, and E91 328i RWD.

After looking at a few F15s we found one local that works for our family. 2014 XDrive35i. 65k miles.

Here are a couple of quick pics.



It had enough options to keep us happy but was missing a couple I wanted. Ie; the ACC cruise and other driving aids, but it' hard to get everything buying second hand.

Options:
- Mineral White Metallic
- Black Dakota Leather
- Msport
- Executive (or maybe it's everything exec minus ceramic - not sure how that package came?) Soft-close doors, rear window shades, 4 zone HVAC
- Premium Package
- LED lighting
- Comfort seats
- HUD
- 3rd row
- LED light package
- 19" luxury wheels
- Harmon Kardon

It had 20" MSport wheels but I traded them with the 19" luxury that was on another X5 at the dealer. The 20" Msports were pretty curbed up and this is a family car so I'm after longer tread life, ride comfort, and all-weather capability. The 19s just made more sense for us. I actually kind of like the look with the Mineral White. More understated and luxurious looking.

Mods planned:
- Rear 25mm H&R spacers. Looks comical currently with the MSport fender flares.
- Ceramic iDrive and Shifter.
- Curt Trailer Hitch and wiring.
- Rear subframe bushing inserts.

Maintenance Due:
Car is at 68k miles. I have no history of the spark plugs being done and the paperwork I have shows that the previous owner turned down the dealer's recommendation to have the plugs done @ 63k miles. Cool, not. Given the previous owner's maintenance aversion I'm just going to replace basically all the consumables in one go. Also, due for an oil change. I will throw on new Eldor coils as well. I've tried squeaking the last mile out of coils before. It always just seemed to backfire for me.

- Spark plugs OEM Bosch
- Eldor Coils
- Engine oil
- HVAC Carbon filters
- Interior cabin air filter
- Belt and tensioner
- Engine air filter

The belt and tensioner seem like maybe overkill for the N55, but it's wobbling on visual inspection. This appears to be somewhat normal on these? Anyway, the belt is 7-8 yea old at this point. So, swapping for peace of mind.

Future Maintenance:
- Trans filter/fluid swap
- Full suspension refresh; hydro bushing replacement and new shocks/struts

One question I have - air suspension - twice now I've come out to the left rear being slightly deflated. Once on completely level ground. Once where it was in an off-road very uneven surface. Does this mean I'm due for new bags? They're original to my knowledge.

Thanks, guys, and happy to be here. Loving the comfortable quiet nature of the car thus far!

Originally Posted by tlow98

Hi all,

Appreciate your advice from those of you I've talked to thus far - this is a very informed forum. Love that!

I'm pretty new to F15s, but not BMWs overall. I've been DIY'ing for a couple of decades on BMWs: E36 M3, E46 M3, E90 328i XDrive, and E91 328i RWD.

After looking at a few F15s we found one local that works for our family. 2014 XDrive35i. 65k miles.

Here are a couple of quick pics.

[img]

View post on imgur.com

[/img]

It had enough options to keep us happy but was missing a couple I wanted. Ie; the ACC cruise and other driving aids, but it' hard to get everything buying second hand.

Options:
- Mineral White Metallic
- Black Dakota Leather
- Msport
- Executive (or maybe it's everything exec minus ceramic - not sure how that package came?) Soft-close doors, rear window shades, 4 zone HVAC
- Premium Package
- LED lighting
- Comfort seats
- HUD
- 3rd row
- LED light package
- 19" luxury wheels
- Harmon Kardon

It had 20" MSport wheels but I traded them with the 19" luxury that was on another X5 at the dealer. The 20" Msports were pretty curbed up and this is a family car so I'm after longer tread life, ride comfort, and all-weather capability. The 19s just made more sense for us. I actually kind of like the look with the Mineral White. More understated and luxurious looking.

Mods planned:
- Rear 25mm H&R spacers. Looks comical currently with the MSport fender flares.
- Ceramic iDrive and Shifter.
- Curt Trailer Hitch and wiring.
- Rear subframe bushing inserts.

Maintenance Due:
Car is at 68k miles. I have no history of the spark plugs being done and the paperwork I have shows that the previous owner turned down the dealer's recommendation to have the plugs done @ 63k miles. Cool, not. Given the previous owner's maintenance aversion I'm just going to replace basically all the consumables in one go. Also, due for an oil change. I will throw on new Eldor coils as well. I've tried squeaking the last mile out of coils before. It always just seemed to backfire for me.

- Spark plugs OEM Bosch
- Eldor Coils
- Engine oil
- HVAC Carbon filters
- Interior cabin air filter
- Belt and tensioner
- Engine air filter

The belt and tensioner seem like maybe overkill for the N55, but it's wobbling on visual inspection. This appears to be somewhat normal on these? Anyway, the belt is 7-8 yea old at this point. So, swapping for peace of mind.

Future Maintenance:
- Trans filter/fluid swap
- Full suspension refresh; hydro bushing replacement and new shocks/struts

One question I have - air suspension - twice now I've come out to the left rear being slightly deflated. Once on completely level ground. Once where it was in an off-road very uneven surface. Does this mean I'm due for new bags? They're original to my knowledge.

Thanks, guys, and happy to be here. Loving the comfortable quiet nature of the car thus far!

Complete and looks good ,i hope it stays strong as much as the specifications here lol

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by v8mate90

Love all the maintenance updates! How did you decide what to tackle first? We have a new to us '15 X5 xdrive35i with 38k on it so far and all the records from the dealer but I want to make sure I'm keeping up with the stuff that will be coming up. Anyone have a link to a good list of recommended services at key mileage points?

You probably won't have to do much of anything at that mileage, tbh. The transmission technically states ~60k miles or 8 years, whichever comes first. But if your vehicle has seen light use in a moderate climate I wouldn't worry about the oil too much.

At your age I would be more attuned to rubbers that are aging out - serpentine belt or air suspension if you have it.

Otherwise, I'd say just enjoy it!

[tlow98]

Rattle at idle in gear persists. Can't seem to find it. Annoyed.

Tried checking everything I have every touched. Tried looking for loose bolts everywhere that were in sight and easy. Tried zip-tying some hoses and cables down.

Next up - check to make sure the spark plugs are tight. Not looking forward to it, but seems prudent.

[findo16]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Rattle at idle in gear persists. Can't seem to find it. Annoyed.

Tried checking everything I have every touched. Tried looking for loose bolts everywhere that were in sight and easy. Tried zip-tying some hoses and cables down.

Next up - check to make sure the spark plugs are tight. Not looking forward to it, but seems prudent.

I believe I'm hearing the same with my x5. I can only hear it from the cabin, poked around the engine bat but all seemed normal.

[FCX5]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Rattle at idle in gear persists. Can't seem to find it. Annoyed.

Tried checking everything I have every touched. Tried looking for loose bolts everywhere that were in sight and easy. Tried zip-tying some hoses and cables down.

Next up - check to make sure the spark plugs are tight. Not looking forward to it, but seems prudent.

Not sure if this is helpful. I had a rattle that was because of the heat shield on a Range Rover. Only at idle and would go away when in gear.

https://www.jdpower.com/Cars/Shoppin...e-when-at-idle

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by findo16

I believe I'm hearing the same with my x5. I can only hear it from the cabin, poked around the engine bat but all seemed normal.

This is sounding very similar. I checked all the spark plug tightness and Left all the plastics off the engine and tried to listen for it…nothing.

I also hear at low speeds on certain bumps or rough pavement. I have a few other places I want to investigate (steering rack, etc.), but it’s definitely most noticeable in the cabin.

Like something ticking against the firewall.

It’s start to make itself heard while in park at certain times. Always while stationary in drive or reverse tho.

Seems louder from drivers seat than from the passenger seat.

Similar for you?

[findo16]

I have't noticed it while driving yet. I also did not have anyone else to stay in driver seat, since mine is mainly heard while parked and probably most when i engage reverse and just let the car roll. But it seems like we're having the same issue.