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      05-17-2021, 01:41 PM   #1
tlow98
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New owner, F15 XDrive35i ‘Build’

Hi all,

Appreciate your advice from those of you I’ve talked to thus far - this is a very informed forum. Love that!

I’m pretty new to F15s, but not BMWs overall. I’ve been DIY’ing for a couple of decades on BMWs: E36 M3, E46 M3, E90 328i XDrive, and E91 328i RWD.

After looking at a few F15s we found one local that works for our family. 2014 XDrive35i. 65k miles.

Here are a couple of quick pics.



It had enough options to keep us happy but was missing a couple I wanted. Ie; the ACC cruise and other driving aids, but it' hard to get everything buying second hand.

Options:
- Mineral White Metallic
- Black Dakota Leather
- Msport
- Executive (or maybe it’s everything exec minus ceramic - not sure how that package came?) Soft-close doors, rear window shades, 4 zone HVAC
- Premium Package
- LED lighting
- Comfort seats
- HUD
- 3rd row
- LED light package
- 19” luxury wheels
- Harmon Kardon

It had 20” MSport wheels but I traded them with the 19” luxury that was on another X5 at the dealer. The 20” Msports were pretty curbed up and this is a family car so I’m after longer tread life, ride comfort, and all-weather capability. The 19s just made more sense for us. I actually kind of like the look with the Mineral White. More understated and luxurious looking.

Mods planned:
- Rear 25mm H&R spacers. Looks comical currently with the MSport fender flares.
- Ceramic iDrive and Shifter.
- Curt Trailer Hitch and wiring.
- Rear subframe bushing inserts.

Maintenance Due:
Car is at 68k miles. I have no history of the spark plugs being done and the paperwork I have shows that the previous owner turned down the dealer’s recommendation to have the plugs done @ 63k miles. Cool, not. Given the previous owner’s maintenance aversion I'm just going to replace basically all the consumables in one go. Also, due for an oil change. I will throw on new Eldor coils as well. I’ve tried squeaking the last mile out of coils before. It always just seemed to backfire for me.

- Spark plugs OEM Bosch
- Eldor Coils
- Engine oil
- HVAC Carbon filters
- Interior cabin air filter
- Belt and tensioner
- Engine air filter

The belt and tensioner seem like maybe overkill for the N55, but it’s wobbling on visual inspection. This appears to be somewhat normal on these? Anyway, the belt is 7-8 yea old at this point. So, swapping for peace of mind.

Future Maintenance:
- Trans filter/fluid swap
- Full suspension refresh; hydro bushing replacement and new shocks/struts

One question I have - air suspension - twice now I’ve come out to the left rear being slightly deflated. Once on completely level ground. Once where it was in an off-road very uneven surface. Does this mean I’m due for new bags? They’re original to my knowledge.

Thanks, guys, and happy to be here. Loving the comfortable quiet nature of the car thus far!

Last edited by tlow98; 07-05-2021 at 11:58 PM..
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      05-17-2021, 02:18 PM   #2
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I got my 2017 S35i in March with 51K on it and I had tensioner wobble. I did belt, tensioner and idler ( plus all filters and engine oil) and still have some wobble, can't really determine if it's the same as before though.

I was pressed for time and Rock Auto was the most reasonable for priority shipping so I bought from them, which means my tensioner is a Gates branded item. Kind of on the fence about buying an OEM part to see if that cures the wobble....or I might just put that money towards a Kies crankseal protector thingy and just let the belt do whatever it's going to do.

Good luck with the new ride and hopefully you don't have a stripped oil drain plug like I did. I have rear springs,so can't help with the bag issue.
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      05-17-2021, 08:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascotgrun View Post
I got my 2017 S35i in March with 51K on it and I had tensioner wobble. I did belt, tensioner and idler ( plus all filters and engine oil) and still have some wobble, can't really determine if it's the same as before though.

I was pressed for time and Rock Auto was the most reasonable for priority shipping so I bought from them, which means my tensioner is a Gates branded item. Kind of on the fence about buying an OEM part to see if that cures the wobble....or I might just put that money towards a Kies crankseal protector thingy and just let the belt do whatever it's going to do.

Good luck with the new ride and hopefully you don't have a stripped oil drain plug like I did. I have rear springs,so can't help with the bag issue.
Thanks for the comments on the tensioner. Gates is a pretty good brand and in a lot of cases is OE/OEM on many Japanese vehicles. I went with INA as it was coming from FCP with all the other bits/bobs. I do have a soft spot for RockAuto - great site. I'm mostly buying the belt kit bc I'm assuming the OFHG has already been done but they did not do the belt and likely it's oil-contaminated.

Bummer about the stripped oil pan drain bolt. I always have that fear. This car was dealer maintained from what I can, so hopefully that's not an issue, but honestly it can happen anywhere. You do a timesert then?

With the crank seal protector do you have to pull the harmonic balancer?
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      06-07-2021, 12:56 AM   #4
tlow98
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Ok, some things accomplished on the ride.

Clay bar'd, IronX'd, polished, and ceramic coated the front clip. About 1/4 of the car. There's no way I could fit an entire wknd in polishing, so it'll get done over the next couple of months I imagine, ha!

You can see bird droppings disappearing about 90%. They were ~8-10 of these and lots of swirls. This car, being a light color, doesn't 'need' a two-step cut/polish so I'm taking the easy route :-) It brought out a lot of metal flake which is great. Also, there was A LOT of iron deposits on this car. Maybe bc it shows up better on white?

Before


After


IronX doing its thing


Got started on the maintenance catch up. Oil change went smoothly. No surprises. Oil and filter both looked good. Oil filter was OE BMW, so that was promising.

Engine air intake filter was filthy.


Next up:
- Plugs
- Coils
- Belt/Tensioner
- AC exterior air filters
- AC interior filter

Last edited by tlow98; 07-06-2021 at 12:01 AM..
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      06-07-2021, 05:21 AM   #5
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Don't forget…You need to do transmission service as well. New differential fluids as well.
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      06-07-2021, 08:20 AM   #6
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Love to see it man, I'm OCD about maintenance like you too and I've only just crossed 32k on mine lol.
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      06-07-2021, 09:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Thanks for the comments on the tensioner. Gates is a pretty good brand and in a lot of cases is OE/OEM on many Japanese vehicles. I went with INA as it was coming from FCP with all the other bits/bobs. I do have a soft spot for RockAuto - great site. I'm mostly buying the belt kit bc I'm assuming the OFHG has already been done but they did not do the belt and likely it's oil-contaminated.

Bummer about the stripped oil pan drain bolt. I always have that fear. This car was dealer maintained from what I can, so hopefully that's not an issue, but honestly it can happen anywhere. You do a timesert then?

With the crank seal protector do you have to pull the harmonic balancer?
Sorry, I missed your reply/questions.

I just tapped the oilpan for a larger bolt. Didn't see that a timesert or helicoil etc was necessary as the drain bolt isn't under any kind of tension.

I haven't done the crankseal protector yet ,but from the YouTube instructions the crankshaft pulley has to be removed. It is held on with 6 (maybe more) smaller bolts rather than one big torque monster bolt.

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      06-07-2021, 10:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooshnoo View Post
Don't forget…You need to do transmission service as well. New differential fluids as well.
Yes, I'd be lying if I said I was excited to do those services. My goal is to get them done before 75k miles. Is there an "official" timeline with the diffs? Didn't see much on that. I was thinking to prioritize the transfer case, if any, but likely will do it all at the same time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sukhk527 View Post
Love to see it man, I'm OCD about maintenance like you too and I've only just crossed 32k on mine lol.
Hi, I'm Trent, and I'm an addict. Nice to see you at the meetings :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascotgrun View Post
Sorry, I missed your reply/questions.

I just tapped the oil pan for a larger bolt. Didn't see that a timesert or helicoil etc was necessary as the drain bolt isn't under any kind of tension.

I haven't done the crank seal protector yet , but from the YouTube instructions, the crankshaft pulley has to be removed. It is held on with 6 (maybe more) smaller bolts rather than one big torque monster bolt.

Good call on just tapping for a larger drain plug. I need to do the same for a TRX250R quad I have. I was looking at the timesert, but didn't think about the fact that it's not under tension. I guess that's something I need to do more research on - thanks for mentioning it.

On the front crank seal protector its my general impression that if you keep an eye on the OFHG and preventatively replace the belt + tensioner you shouldn't need a crank seal protector? It's a peace of mind mod right? Which I'll likely end up doing... planning to keep this very nice truck for the long haul...
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      06-07-2021, 11:12 AM   #9
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Yes, it would just be a peace of mind thing. If it wasn't for reading about shredded belts winding up in oil pans and seizing engines I wouldn't think twice about it. But it's just one of those things, once you hear about a horror story or five then it's all you can think about whenever you see the tensioner flutter even a little.

I can't see any leaks at all from my OFHG but then you hear that the leaks are next to impossible to spot until it gets bad enough to reach the belt. The seal saver thing looks to be a much easier protective measure than proactively changing an OFHG with no apparent leaks.
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      06-07-2021, 06:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascotgrun View Post
Yes, it would just be a peace of mind thing. If it wasn't for reading about shredded belts winding up in oil pans and seizing engines I wouldn't think twice about it. But it's just one of those things, once you hear about a horror story or five then it's all you can think about whenever you see the tensioner flutter even a little.

I can't see any leaks at all from my OFHG but then you hear that the leaks are next to impossible to spot until it gets bad enough to reach the belt. The seal saver thing looks to be a much easier protective measure than proactively changing an OFHG with no apparent leaks.
Yeah, certainly appreciate the thoughts! I'll give the DIY a look through.

Damn, that Kies piece seems nice!

Last edited by tlow98; 06-07-2021 at 06:32 PM..
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      07-05-2021, 11:55 PM   #11
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Let the maintenance continue! A story of T-25s.

Overall this chassis uses more Torq drivers than the previous generations. A bit annoying, but it is what it is. I was impressed with the overall robustness of the plastics, though. They seem better than the E series cars. Clips didn't break, etc. You've got to lean WAY over to get to those back plugs, ha!

Plugs and Coils

- The old plugs had 68k on them. They were original. The gap on them all had widened past .8mm. Used OE Bosch plugs for the replacement. $10 each.
- The coils probably didn't need to be replaced. The OEs were the Delphi ones and looked to be in good shape, but I've had bad luck when trying to stretch coils so I put in the newer, supposedly better, Eldors. $33 each.
- I preemptively bought the PCV valve and am glad I did. The old cracked one removal despite being pretty careful.

Halfway through...



This PCV valve is made by SKP. Rockauto purchase for $25. I didn't mind the non OE part here because 1) the OE part is garbage & 2) it's very easy to get to and 3) won't leave me stranded. It looked identical to the OE part.

Here you'll see one of my many T25 contraptions.







Cabin Recirc Filter

- Used a Corteco part here. Fit like OE. Looked identical. $13.




Carbon Filters

- Went with Mahle units here. They seemed less robust and thinner than the OE ones, but were 1/3 the price of OE, so there's that. $33 for both.

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      07-06-2021, 03:29 AM   #12
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Any tricky bits to be aware of changing the plugs?. I bought Bosch plugs and Eldor coils, but haven't installed them yet as I just turned 53K.

I installed the Kies crank seal protector and that was simple and straightforward, well, except for removing the radiator fan for access, but that procedure has nothing to do with the Kies item. If you don't already have them, a set of E sockets (10 & 14) is a must
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      07-06-2021, 09:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascotgrun View Post
Any tricky bits to be aware of changing the plugs?. I bought Bosch plugs and Eldor coils, but haven't installed them yet as I just turned 53K.

I installed the Kies crank seal protector and that was simple and straightforward, well, except for removing the radiator fan for access, but that procedure has nothing to do with the Kies item. If you don't already have them, a set of E sockets (10 & 14) is a must
Yes, E sockets are a must on modern BMWs.

Tips: For the cable holder that runs across the engine - be sure to take the top off the cable holder and remove the cables from the holder before you attempt to unscrew the holder. Otherwise you’ll fight the cables all along.

For the rear most T25 on the cable holder a swivel joint or loose T25 bit and a open ended wrench will help a lot as the clearance is very tight!

I left the strut tower brace on. There is clearance with it on and in place.

There is a rubber plug that holds the intake tube on the top rear of the engine. Just keep pulling and wiggling that I take too straight up and it’ll eventually bend the knee. Wait to unplug the MAF until the intake tube is free and it’s a lot easier as you’ll be able to see the MAF plug release instead of guessing.

What’s the trick with the fan? I’ll be headed that direction next…

You’ll be glad you bought the coils and won’t need to go in here again. It’s a fiddly job to change coils on the rear most cylinders thanks to all the plastic that needs to be taken off.

Hope the above helps!

Last edited by tlow98; 07-06-2021 at 09:16 AM..
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      07-06-2021, 09:11 AM   #14
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Got plenty of torx bits from my VW days , all too common there as well. You just reminded me I need to do the in cabin filter, ordering now!
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      07-06-2021, 10:37 AM   #15
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Great write up. Will be doing this sometime this year. About to hit 120k KM.

PN for the PCV Valve if anyone is curious... SKP SK121292 {#11127584128)
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      07-06-2021, 03:43 PM   #16
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Nice write-up. Out of curiosity, does anyone know when the OEM suspension usually needs to be replaced in terms of mileage on the F15's? I have lowering springs on my stock suspension and trying to decide if I should just buy coilovers now if I am going to have to replace them soon.
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      07-06-2021, 04:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parthpatel1 View Post
Nice write-up. Out of curiosity, does anyone know when the OEM suspension usually needs to be replaced in terms of mileage on the F15's? I have lowering springs on my stock suspension and trying to decide if I should just buy coilovers now if I am going to have to replace them soon.
I believe if I recall correctly, most people cite between 50-75k miles.
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      07-06-2021, 06:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parthpatel1 View Post
Nice write-up. Out of curiosity, does anyone know when the OEM suspension usually needs to be replaced in terms of mileage on the F15's? I have lowering springs on my stock suspension and trying to decide if I should just buy coilovers now if I am going to have to replace them soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmack123 View Post
I believe if I recall correctly, most people cite between 50-75k miles.
I agree with jmack123. 50-75k is about right for most street dampers dual-tube units. Bilsteins monotube units seem to last longer than that and maintain good dampening characteristics.

There is a range of what dictates actual replacement. Technically, shocks are still 'good' if they are not leaking, but the reality is the damping force reduces over time even if they are not leaking. The oil within the shock wears out as do the metal shims and seals. This leads to decreased performance overall and it happens slowly over time.

For example, most high-end coilovers that are serviceable generally recommend rebuilding in the 25-50k mile range to maintain optimum performance.

True race shocks needs rebuilds after "x" number of hours - an incredibly short amount of time.

Street shocks/dampers generally start to degrade noticeably above 50k miles. This depends on a variety of factors... how they're used, where they are used, and the temperatures in which they are used.

Every BMW I've owned or a family member has owned the shocks and bump stops are pretty much worn out by 75k miles.

Bumpstop Rant
The one thing I've learned about later series BMWs, say E90 and newer, is that they rely heavily on the bumpstops to act as a secondary spring. So, the performance improvement of new OE BMW bumpstops is large. They have a massive effect on the ride smoothness in tandem with the shocks. Also, in my previous BMWs I bought many other brand bump stops to see if there was a viable alternative to OE as they are relatively expensive ($30+ each) and I have not found an alternative that was visually extremely similar. For that reason, I stick with OE BMW brand for this component as it plays a big role in how the car rides and this part also time/labor intensive to replace (aka, PIA to replace). Not worth it to go aftermarket for that piece from what I've seen.

Last edited by tlow98; 07-07-2021 at 12:57 AM..
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      07-06-2021, 10:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Yes, E sockets are a must on modern BMWs.

Tips: For the cable holder that runs across the engine - be sure to take the top off the cable holder and remove the cables from the holder before you attempt to unscrew the holder. Otherwise you’ll fight the cables all along.

For the rear most T25 on the cable holder a swivel joint or loose T25 bit and a open ended wrench will help a lot as the clearance is very tight!

I left the strut tower brace on. There is clearance with it on and in place.

There is a rubber plug that holds the intake tube on the top rear of the engine. Just keep pulling and wiggling that I take too straight up and it’ll eventually bend the knee. Wait to unplug the MAF until the intake tube is free and it’s a lot easier as you’ll be able to see the MAF plug release instead of guessing.

What’s the trick with the fan? I’ll be headed that direction next…

You’ll be glad you bought the coils and won’t need to go in here again. It’s a fiddly job to change coils on the rear most cylinders thanks to all the plastic that needs to be taken off.

Hope the above helps!
Thanks for the tips.

Nothing really tricky about the fan. The driver's side tab folds up to give extra clearance. A third hand to hold the AC hoses out of the way would be ideal. The fan is pretty heavy and trying to hoist it out with one hand while holding the AC hoses with the other isn't easy when bent over under the hood, or maybe I'm just a girly man.

I've seen YouTube videos where they uses straps to hold the hoses out of the way, but I'm too worried about kinking them to tie them up that tight.

Last edited by Ascotgrun; 07-06-2021 at 10:59 PM..
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      07-06-2021, 10:38 PM   #20
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The maintenance I would recommend to get done is air suspension bags, transmission oil, valve cover gasket seal, oil pan gasket seal, oil filter housing gasket. Other than those everything should last.
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      07-06-2021, 11:02 PM   #21
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Personally I'm not touching any of the oil gaskets/seals until they are dripping. Slight wetness on the side of the block I can live with when I consider the work and expense of doing oil pan gaskets and even then I would be seriously considering trading the car in before shelling out thousands for the job.
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      07-06-2021, 11:13 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascotgrun View Post
Personally I'm not touching any of the oil gaskets/seals until they are dripping. Slight wetness on the side of the block I can live with when I consider the work and expense of doing oil pan gaskets and even then I would be seriously considering trading the car in before shelling out thousands for the job.
Agree. The oil pan gasket, In my opinion, is a waste of money. It never hurts anything, just gets the underside dirty. I've never seen one leak enough to even drip on the driveway. Of the 4 Bimmers I've had only my E46M did not leak. All the rest did and never had an issue.

The valve cover and OFHG I would change if they were leaking, for sure.
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