***** interchiller ***** 🥶🥶🥶🥶

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Allrighty fellas, i finally was able to wrap up my interchiller install today, my ac was supposed to be recharged past friday, but shop didnt have proper fittings to pump R134a into the 1234yf system. I am converting new freon to an older r134a (it blows colder and less environment-friendly).

The idea of the interchiller is you running your charge system coolant through a radiator that actually has an ice cold radiator in it therefore drastically reducing intake temps. In order to install you need to tap into your ac lines as well as delete your factory heat exchangers allowing the charge coolant to cycle through the chiller and stay ice cold.

Now on to the install part: i had my freon evacuated out of my ac system by a local automotive shop, then i pulled the bumper off (not too bad of a job, but definitely has a few challenging bolts and connectors), then pulled the radiator fan out to gain some clearance/access to the intercoolers/coolant lines. After that i located two heat exchangers and removed them both (see pic) , basic snap connects, as well as hose clamp i think. After that i was pretty much ready to test fit the chiller. I went by the local hardware store and got some brackets, i think ones i got were 8” , i measured them out amd got them bent at 90* and then i tapped into the crush bar, the black bumper cover foam would cover everything and would make everything look factory. I shifted the chiller more towards tge pass side because the plumbing on the lh side was somewhat funny, then i ordered a couple AN12 fittings off amazon one 120* and the other was 180* and they fit perfectly with my set up, using the pass coolant line and i replaced lh hose with a 3/4” hose from oreillys just because i didnt want any bends/kinks in it.

After that i proceeded tapping into the ac lines, and thats what got me worried, because these lines are not just rubber, but also have a nylon sleeve/lining on the inside so i was big time concerned about ac system leaks. Now the issue i ran into was that the top skinny ac line once i added about 1.5” of a fitting to it became longer and dint want to sit correctly, it was either pushing against the headlight, pushing against the other line, so i had to add some light bends by hand to compensate for the increased length. That was stressful somewhat but i got it done. Then on to liquid line , I removed the splash shield (i removed mine completely because i was also adding sound deadening to the splash shield and metal behind it but its not necessary), and then i gained access through the wheel well to make a clean cut and then do a clean solid crimp through the wheel well access /opening.

At that point i was ready to run the lines, soni trimmed some of the radiator shroud plastic on the right side to clear both ac chiller lines as well as some insulation, and routed both lines below the rh headlight. I also fabbed a small bracket as well as used edge seal to cover all the sharp edges so that nothing gets runned through/damaged over time with vibrations etc. at that point i was concerned with the headlight washer assembly fitting properly(ac lines were routed right there), but i got lucky and everything cleared fine.

Then the headlight went back in, these have a lot of adjustment room which could be both good and bad, could become challenging to line up against hood/bumper/grille/fender, but overall not terribly bad. Then bumper went back on, splash shield, and everything else. I left the grille out for now to be able to see if theres any leaks/issues but grille snaps in easy, ill do that at some point tomorrow maybe.

Ran the car by the same shop, they definitely looked at me funny when i told them i will be going back in with the older freon, got the adapters on, pulled vacuum on the system, everything checked out, then refilled and added about 25g of freon. Stock called for 675 +-10g so we figured that would compensate for that increase in the ac system volume. Chiller inlet/outlet ports started getting covered with condensation almost immediately, and later after i done a few hard pulls i measured the charge coolant temps and they were in the early 60s compared to the 110 before. Both intercoolers are also covered in condensate with the vehicle running, as well.

So far the overall driving impressions would be that pulls/acceleration feels ‘fuller’ and have an even and solid curve. Id say effortless would be a proper word maybe. I will be adding a different coolant tank in place of the factory one , i am thinking to go with a 1.6-1.8L one, that should increase the coolant capacity some (id say by 30% hopefully), and then i will insulate all coolant lines as well to keep trumps low. Otherwise i am very impressed how my f85 feels and how well everything performs and still looks factory. Fantastic, not sure if anyone else got these on, but id say installation is a 5-6 out of 10, not terribly bad at all, if you can, contact Kirk at FI Chillers and he will hook you up with a unit, it can be done, it was done , love this set up !

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

More pictures

[8202632]

Hats off to u for knowing how to do something like this. I have neither the skill nor the confidence to carry out such a modification! Thanks for sharing and keep us posted of real world benefits and/or issues!

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by 8202632

Hats off to u for knowing how to do something like this. I have neither the skill nor the confidence to carry out such a modification! Thanks for sharing and keep us posted of real world benefits and/or issues!

Thank you, job overall wasn’t too bad, took me 3 days on and off, but i was doing some extra work, i was also removing some stuff that didnt need to be removed, it took me an hour to just trace coolant lines, find all the pumps, and see the direction of flow lol. But not that bad at all.

[Chilled]

Well done, looks good, plus you got rid of one rad, so more airflow into the engine bay. Would really love to know more on the direction of coolant flow and how you managed to connect the AC lines to your new connectors, and what is that coil thing? Guess time will tell if there are any AC leaks.


The only real question I have is how will the new IAT affect stock or tuned. What are the chances now of leaning out due to air density. Do you have any AFR numbers/logs?

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Well done, looks good, plus you got rid of one rad, so more airflow into the engine bay. Would really love to know more on the direction of coolant flow and how you managed to connect the AC lines to your new connectors, and what is that coil thing? Guess time will tell if there are any AC leaks.


The only real question I have is how will the new IAT affect stock or tuned. What are the chances now of leaning out due to air density. Do you have any AFR numbers/logs?

Thanks, coolant flows from drivers side towards pass side, and is pushed by two electric pumps, one located behind the rad on pass side, the other one is kinda inside the bumper youll see it if you trace the hoses. To connect the ac lines the chiller comes with special leak proof fittings, i was worried that inner nylon sleeving on factory hoses (not normal rubber), but everything sealed great with chiller kit , i was actually impressed with how well thought everything is.

On the overfueling, i doubt this is possible, car will adapt maps accordingly, reading off mafs, air temps, and o2s, if anything i could get more by retuning it (which id likely go for next month probably). I spoke to Kirk just a minute ago, he suggested i play with freon (essentially add at least 50g for starts) he said i can get much colder temps than what im seeing now , so thats the step

[Chilled]

Fair enough, did you manage to note the actual IAT temps before and after? Would be good to know how big of a diff that 50f makes to the air temp. Knowing the rod situation, I still would be cautions about pushing it tho. Maybe its time for those MR Vanos drop in rods.

But either way, eat your hart out CFS. This definitely looks like a better mod than strapping F90 coolers to these thigns.

[Chilled]

Wait, had a dumb idea. Why not bypass the heat exchange and connect the ac lines directly to the charge coolers. Your no longer wasting energy on cooling the heat exchanger, the water in the charge system and transferring that cooling to the air.

*edit* if going this route, it would probably be a good idea to us the Weistec or CFS F90 coolers. So your not placing those plastic end tanks under constant heating/cooling = cracking.

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

Thanks, coolant flows from drivers side towards pass side, and is pushed by two electric pumps, one located behind the rad on pass side, the other one is kinda inside the bumper youll see it if you trace the hoses. To connect the ac lines the chiller comes with special leak proof fittings, i was worried that inner nylon sleeving on factory hoses (not normal rubber), but everything sealed great with chiller kit , i was actually impressed with how well thought everything is.

On the overfueling, i doubt this is possible, car will adapt maps accordingly, reading off mafs, air temps, and o2s, if anything i could get more by retuning it (which id likely go for next month probably). I spoke to Kirk just a minute ago, he suggested i play with freon (essentially add at least 50g for starts) he said i can get much colder temps than what im seeing now , so thats the step

I’m curious to what are the temps as well.. also I spoke to Kirk and I’m very interested in getting this as well as the methanol..
I asked him about this chiller and cooling during the winter time.. I can’t remember his answer but I think he did say I’d have to have the AC button on as well as the heat knobs turned all the way up to heat…
Is there any air flow pathways through the chiller to cool it when you drive without any AC? I’d see that being the only downside of the system..

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Wait, had a dumb idea. Why not bypass the heat exchange and connect the ac lines directly to the charge coolers. Your no longer wasting energy on cooling the heat exchanger, the water in the charge system and transferring that cooling to the air.

*edit* if going this route, it would probably be a good idea to us the Weistec or CFS F90 coolers. So your not placing those plastic end tanks under constant heating/cooling = cracking.

Unfortunately the pressure that the ac system is in will likely collapse/damage the intercoolers.

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

I’m curious to what are the temps as well.. also I spoke to Kirk and I’m very interested in getting this as well as the methanol..
I asked him about this chiller and cooling during the winter time.. I can’t remember his answer but I think he did say I’d have to have the AC button on as well as the heat knobs turned all the way up to heat…
Is there any air flow pathways through the chiller to cool it when you drive without any AC? I’d see that being the only downside of the system..

Yep youll have to get your compressor to come on, but with the heat on i dont see any downside really. Plus the colder outside temps would further lower your intake temps so again i dont see any real issues there. This is a super busy week for me with many brake kits going out as well as my sons birthday coming up this weekend, ill try to play with the freon amount possibly tomorrow or Thursday just need to make time, Kirk said i need more in the system and briefed me on how to fine tune it to get the most cooling. Ideally intake temps should be at or right above freezing

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Fair enough, did you manage to note the actual IAT temps before and after? Would be good to know how big of a diff that 50f makes to the air temp. Knowing the rod situation, I still would be cautions about pushing it tho. Maybe its time for those MR Vanos drop in rods.

But either way, eat your hart out CFS. This definitely looks like a better mod than strapping F90 coolers to these thigns.

My end goal was efficiency and reliability, adding larger intercoolers seemed to me like a huge amount of work plus would in my opinion alter the reliability some as well. We take our x5m on long family trips so simplicity and efficiency is the key for me, only issue i could really see as of right now is the chance of ac lines leaking at some point , but they might last years as well. If they do, ill get custom lines made, otherwise i think i am in a good shape, i dont track or neither i am too rough with my cars, so the set up that i got is perfect in every way i can see for now.

PS i got a larger tank ordered, this should help keep temps low even more 👍

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

Unfortunately the pressure that the ac system is in will likely collapse/damage the intercoolers.

Well the stock charger tank cap is rated for 1.5bar (if not mistake) before it releases pressure and one would think that those all metal tanks could handle seen 60-ish PSI.

But on a second thought, if you do get a freon leak into air side. That could lead to some interesting detonation.

But yeah, separate tanks is safer.

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Well the stock charger tank cap is rated for 1.5bar (if not mistake) before it releases pressure and one would think that those all metal tanks could handle seen 60-ish PSI.

But on a second thought, if you do get a freon leak into air side. That could lead to some interesting detonation.

But yeah, separate tanks is safer.

Also keep in mind that all the plumbing will be pretty crazy

[KLR X5M]

The heat and cooling retention of water is greater than that of the refrigerant gas over time which makes it better suited in the application. Additionally the volume of gas and the expansion into such large cores of the ic would require a complete redesign of the whole ac system starting at the compressor.

These systems have existed for decades and are the proven solutions to active chilling of the ic fluid circuit. Dont over think it...just do it..

[Cbozz]

I really wanted to do this for a while, I was looking at the killer chillers before- those have the 3 way relay where you can run the chiller, chiller alongside the radiator or just the radiator without the chiller…. I need to figure out which setup is better…I guess whichever cools better would be the one to go with.. I think regardless the setup I’d get I would definitely want to get the relay so I can run oem cooling… I think I rather have that during the winters and not have to run the ac, or when I want to drive with the windows open and no fan.. I like options even tho I may not use it.. do you know how many cooling fins is in there? Did you check your IATs yet?
Seems like the killer chiller product cooled the intercoolers more.. it would frost them over whereas your coolant temps are in the 60s..

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

I really wanted to do this for a while, I was looking at the killer chillers before- those have the 3 way relay where you can run the chiller, chiller alongside the radiator or just the radiator without the chiller…. I need to figure out which setup is better…I guess whichever cools better would be the one to go with.. I think regardless the setup I’d get I would definitely want to get the relay so I can run oem cooling… I think I rather have that during the winters and not have to run the ac, or when I want to drive with the windows open and no fan.. I like options even tho I may not use it.. do you know how many cooling fins is in there? Did you check your IATs yet?
Seems like the killer chiller product cooled the intercoolers more.. it would frost them over whereas your coolant temps are in the 60s..

I havent had time to play with freon, we added 50grams and coolant temps dropped to 39, FI chillers said add more freon to fine tune the system. From what i gather in the reviews is that 2 out of three reccomend fi interchiller over killerchiller because of quality and performance, also kc can cause compressor issues as a result because of fluid getting to the compressor i believe and lack of lubrication.

PS i have 0 issue to ride with ac button on, you can still run heat, and if its winter outside, you still can run ac or drive without it, interchiller would act as a small heat exchanger by being in the front and coolant circulating through it plus colt temps will help with iac if you just absolutely got to have ac button off lol. I havent counted the fins but i am already just above freezing and haven’t even finished with freon yet. I hope for freezing temps in the charge system towards the end of this week hopefully

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

I havent had time to play with freon, we added 50grams and coolant temps dropped to 39, FI chillers said add more freon to fine tune the system. From what i gather in the reviews is that 2 out of three reccomend fi interchiller over killerchiller because of quality and performance, also kc can cause compressor issues as a result because of fluid getting to the compressor i believe and lack of lubrication.

PS i have 0 issue to ride with ac button on, you can still run heat, and if its winter outside, you still can run ac or drive without it, interchiller would act as a small heat exchanger by being in the front and coolant circulating through it plus colt temps will help with iac if you just absolutely got to have ac button off lol. I havent counted the fins but i am already just above freezing and haven’t even finished with freon yet. I hope for freezing temps in the charge system towards the end of this week hopefully

I guess we’ll watch your progress and if this one is close to the KC in size and performance you should definitely be in the negatives… I guess keep track of how much Freon you use in total so you can help us succeed from the get-go.. I read that the KC gen 5 IC is 13 or 14 inches I think so if you can check how long yours is.. I would definitely not want any issues with the AC but I think for the peace of mind whichever chiller I end up getting I will get the 3 way valve from KC just to circulate the coolant through oem Heat Exchanger during those cooler days…

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

I guess we’ll watch your progress and if this one is close to the KC in size and performance you should definitely be in the negatives… I guess keep track of how much Freon you use in total so you can help us succeed from the get-go.. I read that the KC gen 5 IC is 13 or 14 inches I think so if you can check how long yours is.. I would definitely not want any issues with the AC but I think for the peace of mind whichever chiller I end up getting I will get the 3 way valve from KC just to circulate the coolant through oem Heat Exchanger during those cooler days…

So that was one of the reasons i went with fi is that their unit made by hvac professionals and is larger than kc. It is substantially more expensive (i think by like 500) than kc, and it is so for a reason. Now according to fi chillers kc parts and internals are made in china and that would result in lower performance and often in compressor issues.

On the stock heat exchangers, i think you might be overthinking it overdesigning something that could actually be simple and efficient. Take it from the guy that just installed one, you will gain much better airflow to the condenser, you will acquire good bit of room to install the chiller itself and run coolant and ac lines to it. Like i was telling Kory with autolust, space is VERY tight and crammed there, it really would be challenging to keep heat exchangers and the chiller (kc chiller is smaller so maybe it might work idk ), but it would be hard without some major chopping and cutting. Again I really think you overdoing it by keeping the heat exchangers but give it a shot, im sure it would be a complex system that would be hard to fit given an extremely limited space and shape of parts and vehicle layout.

PS ill be getting back on freon tune end of this week hopefully. So far we did 690g then 50g, now i will go by 20g increments and track the coolant, ambient, and cabin temps

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

So that was one of the reasons i went with fi is that their unit made by hvac professionals and is larger than kc. It is substantially more expensive (i think by like 500) than kc, and it is so for a reason. Now according to fi chillers kc parts and internals are made in china and that would result in lower performance and often in compressor issues.

On the stock heat exchangers, i think you might be overthinking it overdesigning something that could actually be simple and efficient. Take it from the guy that just installed one, you will gain much better airflow to the condenser, you will acquire good bit of room to install the chiller itself and run coolant and ac lines to it. Like i was telling Kory with autolust, space is VERY tight and crammed there, it really would be challenging to keep heat exchangers and the chiller (kc chiller is smaller so maybe it might work idk ), but it would be hard without some major chopping and cutting. Again I really think you overdoing it by keeping the heat exchangers but give it a shot, im sure it would be a complex system that would be hard to fit given an extremely limited space and shape of parts and vehicle layout.

PS ill be getting back on freon tune end of this week hopefully. So far we did 690g then 50g, now i will go by 20g increments and track the coolant, ambient, and cabin temps

I guess you might be right. If I do it I guess I could just keep the AC button on and the heat as well. I really want to see your final temperatures... If your unit is better than the KC one you should definitely be in subzero temps all day.

[Chilled]

Hey is there a way to monitor the pressure on the hot side? Just wondering how adding all that freon is affecting the high side.

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Hey is there a way to monitor the pressure on the hot side? Just wondering how adding all that freon is affecting the high side.

Machine at the shop shows high/low pressures. We are going in small increments, ac system got larger by adding hoses/interchiller, so it shouldn’t be nothing major/shouldn’t affect anything if everything is filled up correctly