DIY - 50i Spark Plugs

[Maverik259]

Ok after a week and replacement of broken parts here it is...I'll post the write up first and then add pics back to it so please be patient if you're seeing this come to life and try not to reply with quote!

Parts:
8 new spark plugs
3/8" Socket wrench
3/8" Torque wrench
14pt thin wall spark plug socket
2x universal swivel joints
3" extension
2x 6" extensions
Flat head screw driver
T20 screw driver
E26 socket (need to double check size)
**Reports of some not needing E socket but rather a T30.**

[BobBeau]

Define... Patient

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by BobBeau

Define... Patient

Haha more than this

[Maverik259]

Here is the set of 8 OEM X5M F85 Bosch spark plugs. $4 a piece.

[Maverik259]

I gapped them down to just below .64mm. Before I gapped them I can easily move my tool in between the electrode and now it just barely can't make it through so I'm assuming roughly .62 is where I ended up.

[Maverik259]

Only need to remove the upper airbox assembly which is attached by these mounting points. Just pull it up and off.

[Maverik259]

Notice the terrible condition of wire looms and the excess oil on top of the rack above the turbos. This what I was trying to wipe up when the plastic tube here was broke in two.

[Maverik259]

Starting on the driver side there will be 4 black squares with white dots on them. Three rear most igniters have wiring that comes out the back toward the cabin while both front igniters are turned 180deg and the wiring comes out the front.

Slip a flat head into the notch and pry up to pop the plug loose. Then remove the plug and move out of the way.

Slip a tool (I used a 6" socket extension) into the raised plastic loop and gently but firmly pull up. It's easier on the front 6. The rear most 2 were most difficult at this point to get the needed leverage. But just be patient and persistent to not break anything. They will come. I don't recommend twisting or anything as these are plastic and let's be honest. They'll break.

[Maverik259]

Now it's time for your 14pt thin wall spark plug adapter. Attach this to a swivel or a universal joint and two 6" extensions. The front 6 plugs come loose pretty easy. After 3 or 4 turns I simply took off the socket wrench and turn the 6" extensions by hand as it was faster until it came out.

[Maverik259]

I recommend Immediately after removing an old plug you replace with a new one. This will help prevent any crap from falling down the hole. Shove your new spark plug into your 14 pt socket and plug it back in the hole. Again follow steps in reverse. I hand tightened via the 6" extensions and then attached my torque wrench which I had preset to 23nm. And then just tighten. Once it clicks pull it all out. And put back in the igniter. Line it up with these little "V" that's stamped into the block this will make more sense when you see it and have the igniter in your hand. Once lined up push it all the way in. You should hear a small vaccum sound as it seals up. And then align some more as needed. Return the plug with the white dog and then snap back down the latch. Boom one down 7 to go!

[Maverik259]

Too do both rear plugs on either side. I had to add a second universal joint to get the angle. This worked quite well actually. Once I had it loosened I pulled most the extensions off and just hand loosened. And followed the rest of the steps. Put new one back on and in. And then hand rightened. Connected the additional u joint and extensions and then torqued it down.

[Maverik259]

Now the passenger side is a bit longer because you have this auxiliary tank that has to be moved. It's not hard. Just a few bolts and it comes right out. And can be moved to sit in the front side of the engine bay and out of the way. There is a male joint like the ones that hold the upper airbox in place on the bottom of the tank and it has one screw circled in the picture. This sits in a bracket and the bracket has threw bolts of its own. Two shown here and one hidden behind the tank. It will be apparent once the tank is remove. These use both T and E bolts so if you don't have an E socket you can get them from any auto parts store. An E bit is just the inverse of a T bit.

Once it's moved just follow the steps for the driver side cuz it's all the same. Just don't forget the front plug faces the opposite direction as the rear three.

[Maverik259]

Almost forgot. After you move the tank and it's tubes there's a wire bundle held in place with a long thing snap shown in first pic above. You can just pinch it and remove the snap and push the wires to the side when working around this area.

As others have mentioned I used my yard blower to blow a lot of this area out to ensure no loose dirt would just fall in once the holes were exposed.

[Maverik259]

Knock out these 4 and then replace the upper airbox and you're all done. Whole thing took me about 2-3 hours but that was with all the pictures, listening to NHL final, breaking an oil line and overall just being slow. Next time it'll take me 60 min tops.

[Maverik259]

For those that have early 2014 models you will have these two ribbed plastic junk pieces sitting on top of the engine just under the upper airbox. Well they're plastic and run hot oil in it right above the two turbos. Needless to say it gets hot and mine cracked which led to a bunch of oil all over. And then when cleaning it up broke in half. Actually three pieces before I got it unattached. The hose sits on this metal rail with the part number stamped on the rail not the hose. I took off the whole hose and covered the connectors in the engine block with painters tape while I waited for new part to get in. The part is a crank case cooling line.

[Maverik259]

New piece. And the Third iteration of this part is what you now see before you. The nice thick rubber piece. Part number in the picture. If you still have the old one I recommend replacing immediately. It's about $100-130 shipped depending on your desired vendor and shipping speed.

[Maverik259]

Let me know if anyone's got any questions or need better shots or more explanation about anything.

[CT335xi]

Nice write up and very detailed!!

[CT335xi]

Mine is a 2014 so probably has the crappy plastic junk piece, do you know if later in production they started putting the nice heavy rubber piece you put in or did they only make it so as they would fail or crack it would be on you to replace? If was to see mine was seeping or leaking do you think they would replace it under warranty? Thanks!

[Maverik259]

First replacement part was 6-2014 (3 months after my build date) and second was sometime in 2016. And absolutely it would be under warranty if you found it leaking. Unfortunately mine was out of warranty as of March. I’m eventually going to replace the smaller plastic line behind it seen in the pics but it’s $300 as it’s several connected tubes vice just a single and I’m saving that bit for my control arm or whatever is making horrible noise behind my driver side wheel right now.

[CT335xi]

I almost forgot the most important question lol, how is the car running now / curious about the x5m plugs and if the issues / hesitating is gone?

[Maverik259]

Runs great. No more vibration or limp mode. Even at WOT. All I wanted for $50 all in including the thin wall socket and gap tool I didn’t have at the time.