DIY Oil Change

[42pilot]

My car just clicked 5000 miles and since I own the car, I never let the oil change go past 5000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends. I remember Mercedes stated 15,000 was ok until engines failed and they pulled the recommendation back to 12 or 13,000 miles. I've built too many engines and seen the problems with extended change intervals. Anyway, this post is not to debate when you change your oil - it's your car, do what you think it best. This post is to show you how to do it, if you have an interest to do so.

The oil change is the easiest I have ever done. You need:

1. ramps to drive the front of the car up on
2. 17 mm socket to remove and tighten the drain plug
3. 27 mm socket to remove the filter cap
4. 7 quarts (or 6.5L) of approved diesel oil (I used the recommended Castrol oil from the dealer)
5. an oil filter

Drive the car to warm the oil. This helps drain the oil quicker and mixes any contaminants for easy removal. Now drive the car up on the ramp and set the parking brake. This gives a lot of room for you to work safely.

Open the hood of the car and remove the plastic engine cover and locate the oil filter cap (see the first pic below). Using the 27 mm socket, unscrew the cap but do not remove. You want the oil in the filter to drain into the pan.

Now, get under the car and find the oil drain plug cover (the next pic). Using your fingernail, if you like, squeeze the door spring and let the door open and drop down. I removed it to keep it safe.

Get a container that can hold at least 10 quarts of oil and place it under the oil drain plug (shown in the next pic). Using your 17mm socket, remove the drain plug and let the oil drain into container. Clean the drain plug looking for metal as the plug is magnetized. It should be clean with a possible layer of very fine metal, the consistency of paint clay (super-fine, and you should not feel any particles). Make sure all the oil is drained.

In the oil filter box will be the filter, an o-ring for the filter cap and a copper crush washer that will be used when replacing the drain plug (see next pic). A new washer ensures a good seal. Place the copper washer on the plug and reinstall, and torque to 12 ft lbs, or just very snug if you don't have a torque wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

In the engine compartment, remove the filter cap that you loosened earlier. The filter is press-fit into the cap (see next pic). Notice the anti-drain plug built into the filter and where it fits into the engine (see next pic). You will see a silver colored circle in the top right of the filter cavity - this is where the anti-drain plug fits when you reinstall. This keeps oil from draining when you turn off the car, so oil will be ready to circulate when you start the car.

Remove the filter from the cap by pulling it straight out, using a bit of muscle and slight twisting. I like to clean the inside of the cap, but that's up to you. When cleaned, I reinstall the new filter in the cap. Note the difference in color of the filter after only 5000 miles (see next pic of filters). In the filter's box, you will find a new o-ring for the cap. Remove the old o-ring and replace it with the new o-ring. For good measure, coat the new o-ring with a light layer of oil for proper sealing (see the next pic showing the o-ring being removed, over-lapping the threads).

Install the filter cap back into the engine, keeping the anti-drain plug lined up with the hole shown in the earlier pic. It's easy and will slip into place. Now, screw the filter cap back on and tighten just snug enough to stay in place. You will need to overcome the resistance of the new o-ring.

Now place a funnel (if you like) in the oil filler neck (next pic). Pour the new oil into the funnel (see next pic), using 6.5 liters, or roughly 7 quarts. I used all 7 quarts. Make sure you've replaced the oil drain door and replaced the plastic engine cover, and of course the oil filler cap. Start the engine and check for drips or leaks. It should start immediately and should not have any clicking or tapping noises.

If you think you shouldn't change your oil regularly, take a look at the next pic and see how black and dirty the oil was that was removed from this engine after the first 5000 miles. I have been working on engines since the late 70's and owned diesels for over 20 years, and have to say this is the blackest, dirtiest oil I have ever seen coming from a new, or any mileage engine - gas or diesel. Just wow....

I bought the oil from the dealer for $6.80 per quart and the filter was $22. It is also the smallest filter I have ever seen on a car of this displacement. In addition, it is paper and not fleece like other BMW or Merc motors. Given this is a diesel with high soot levels, I am very surprised there is not more oil (like 8 or 9 quarts for cooling) and the filter is not more "robust" for filtering. I use a 3 micron stainless steel mesh re-usable filter on my 05 Powerstroke and the oil removed from it is a very dark amber. Anyway, my oil change will be easy to remember - every 5,000 miles after the dealer changes it every 10,000 mile increment. When it's out of warranty, I will change to a real diesel oil such as Rotella T-6 synthetic. Even the API spec on the Castrol container is an obsolete spec which kind of cracks me up, knowing BMW endorses the oil. I think it's a sponsorship thing rather than a performance thing...

Good luck.

[MattBianco]

Thanks for the detailed instructions and photos. The last diesel I had was a 300d in the early 80s. Back then, the merc dealer recommended 2000 miles due to the high soot level. And, I recall checking the oil within 200 miles of a change, and it would have already turned dark. As I am not DIY anymore, I might do as you have, and just take the filter to a place that stocks approved oils and have them do it. Also, I bet higher quality aftermarket filters will emerge soon.

[42pilot]

Since we, by law in the US, use ultra-low sulfur diesel now, the soot levels aren't anything like they used to be. In my opinion, we shouldn't be seeing this color of oil. When I go in for the dealer 10,000 mile change, I'll get a sample for Blackstone labs.

I can run up to 7500 miles on an oil change in my Powerstroke and it only approaches this color.

[barcelona]

You make it sound simple with easiest ever, still not for me, unlike Opasha who will. You solved the no dip stick issue. Its been a while since I changed my oil on a former Turbo Diesel, old diesel is always dark color. I pay for in-between free annual dealer changes, hence every 6 months, oil change. 50i cost $200. Your point about oil brand is spot on. BMW even changes the frequency. I think frequent oil changes are the best thing you can do for the car, more so than a wash.
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=868293
http://www.shell.com/global/products...-supplier.html

[r33_RGSport]

@42pilot, good write up.

[opasha]

Nice write up @42pilot! Now the question is...how many quartz does the V8 need? People mentioned about 9 quartz. We just finished changing the oils on my father's 1998 S320 LWB (8 quartz - Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30) and my cousin's Volvo S60 T6 R-Design (7 Quartz - Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5W-30 like you used). That was fun... not .

I'll post pictures and more info when I change the oil on my 50i - I have about 4000 miles left.

[MattBianco]

Originally Posted by opasha

Nice write up @42pilot! Now the question is...how many quarts does the V8 need? .....

9 liters, or 9.5 quarts: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/oi...xdrive50i.html

detail specs: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ca...xdrive50i.html

_

[opasha]

Originally Posted by MattBianco

9 liters, or 9.5 quarts: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/oi...xdrive50i.html

Thanks, Niko .

[MattBianco]

The Mobil 1 equivalent oil is: Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 , based on their "What's the right oil for my car?" selector:


"What's the right oil for my car?

The company that manufactures your vehicle recommends this Mobil 1 product, or has a special requirement.

Year: 2015
Make: BMW
Model: X5
Engine Type: 6cyl. 3.0Liter Turbocharged

Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30

Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30 is engineered to help prolong the life and maintain the efficiency of car emission reduction systems in both diesel and gasoline powered automobiles that require an oil that is approved against MB-Approval 229.51 and 229.52, and BMW Longlife-04. It replaces Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40."

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/....aspx?option=2

[Jenya B]

i did oil change 3 times already , first on 2500km , and every 5000km .
I quit from Castrol LL04 to Mobil LL01 .

I read many oil forums and some engine mechanics dont like ll04 (like water) and they have opinion that LL01 more safe for engines .

[BXdriver]

Great writeup, thank you.

I personally believe I should do this too, my mind would feel better...but referring BMW, I am unsure.
The seller/dealer told me VERY CLEARLY at the delivery day that i should NOT do any oil changes unless the car service indicator told me.

Now...with the intervals we have here (30.000km), the first service time ever on our car is estimated to be in May 2016!!!

I find that rather crazy to be honest...but if BMW says so...

Thanks
Bent

[c3uo]

Originally Posted by Jenya B

i did oil change 3 times already , first on 2500km , and every 5000km .
I quit from Castrol LL04 to Mobil LL01 .

I read many oil forums and some engine mechanics dont like ll04 (like water) and they have opinion that LL01 more safe for engines .

I would be careful if you have a diesel. DPFs require a low SAPS oil. BMW LL-04 is a low / mid SAPS oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1537943

BMW LL-01 is a better long life lubricant, but not low SAPS.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2636290

For diesel drivetrains, low SAPS (BMW LL-04, MB 229.51, etc.) are critical.

If you have a gas engine, you should definately use the better quality LL-01 lubricant.


Note - the above comments are applicable to North America fuels and emmissions equipment.

[Jenya B]

Originally Posted by c3uo

I would be careful if you have a diesel. DPFs require a low SAPS oil. BMW LL-04 is a low / mid SAPS oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1537943

BMW LL-01 is a better long life lubricant, but not low SAPS.

.

I know that , but with LL04 DPF parts will be working properly for 240 000 km
and with LL01 it will works for 190 000 , which is ok for me . But main part of vehicle is engine and works better with LL01 .

[MattBianco]

Originally Posted by Jenya B

....
I quit from Castrol LL04 to Mobil LL01 .

I read many oil forums and some engine mechanics dont like ll04 (like water) and they have opinion that LL01 more safe for engines .

Is that the same Mobil oil as this http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...X1_0W-30.aspx# which is the only BMW (and Mercedes) approved Mobil oil for diesels?

[42pilot]

Originally Posted by BXdriver

Great writeup, thank you.

I personally believe I should do this too, my mind would feel better...but referring BMW, I am unsure.
The seller/dealer told me VERY CLEARLY at the delivery day that i should NOT do any oil changes unless the car service indicator told me.

Now...with the intervals we have here (30.000km), the first service time ever on our car is estimated to be in May 2016!!!

I find that rather crazy to be honest...but if BMW says so...

Thanks
Bent

For me, it's a matter of money if you want to do the change earlier. What could it possible hurt? Since I own my car (not lease), I prefer to invest $80 every 5000 miles to ensure its in top condition. The dealer rep who said DO NOT change your oil unless the indicator says so is misleading you, but not necessarily wrong. Personally, I would walk away from such advice.

As for car manufacturers recommending one oil over another, I know for a fact the oil company pays to have their oil recommended. Porsche did this in the mid-1990's when they changed to Mobil 1. The irony is that all these oils are capable and high quality. It's driven by money, not magical oil engineering.

The only way to be sure, if you want to be this anal, is to have your oil checked by a lab like Blackstone. Then you know. If I were leasing, I would follow the car manufacturer and their intervals, cause I'm turning it in anyway - why waste one extra dollar on a car I don't own.

[Jenya B]

Originally Posted by MattBianco

Is that the same Mobil oil as this http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...X1_0W-30.aspx# which is the only BMW (and Mercedes) approved Mobil oil for diesels?

Nope , this one is LL04

[Jenya B]

Originally Posted by 42pilot

For me, it's a matter of money if you want to do the change earlier. What could it possible hurt? Since I own my car (not lease), I prefer to invest $80 every 5000 miles to ensure its in top condition. The dealer rep who said DO NOT change your oil unless the indicator says so is misleading you, but not necessarily wrong. Personally, I would walk away from such advice.

As for car manufacturers recommending one oil over another, I know for a fact the oil company pays to have their oil recommended. Porsche did this in the mid-1990's when they changed to Mobil 1. The irony is that all these oils are capable and high quality. It's driven by money, not magical oil engineering.

The only way to be sure, if you want to be this anal, is to have your oil checked by a lab like Blackstone. Then you know. If I were leasing, I would follow the car manufacturer and their intervals, cause I'm turning it in anyway - why waste one extra dollar on a car I don't own.

100% totally agree with you

[bim_power]

thanks for sharing 43pilot...

How do you check the oil level after refilling?

Thanks

[Jenya B]

Originally Posted by bim_power

thanks for sharing 43pilot...

How do you check the oil level after refilling?

Thanks

Dipstick on the back driver side .

[barcelona]

My mistake, its the gas models with no dip stick.

[opasha]

Originally Posted by barcelona

My mistake, its the gas models with no dip stick.

How do we check our oil level then? We can't, right? I assume we just would have to completely drain and then fill up whatever the recommended oil amount is - in my case, 9.5 quartz.

[42pilot]

The 35d does not have a dipstick either. Yes, you have to follow the dealer method of draining the oil completely (oil pan and filter) and refill with the recommended amount. After the oil change, confirm the level through the iDrive.