Tow Hitch selection help

[stlb5]

We are getting a new-to-us 2015 X5 M sport. I've read through a bunch of hitch posts here but still have some questions. I've narrowed my hitch selection down to the stealth hitch ($1147 with accessories), and the Curt ($210 with the cheap wiring). Quite a price swing. Other possibilities would be Curt hitch plus OEM wiring.

This will primarily be used for a bike rack and a cargo platform. Occasional trailer work. The X5 is black and I'm not too worried about the Curt hitch showing. I think the wiring is my primary concern.

Questions.

1 - Will either of the wiring kits on eTrailer, when coded, turn off parking sensors, alert when bulbs are out, etc.. or do I have to stick to OEM for that functionality? https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2015_BMW_X5.htm

2 - Is the wiring that Stealth sells the same as OEM? Would they both need to be coded the same?

3 - If I went with Curt, is there a bracket available to mount the wiring harness too for the trailer plug in?

4 - Is there a how to for the coding? I've coded my 235i with Esys and Bimmercode.

5 - Based on what I'm looking to use it for, would you go Curt or is the Stealth worth the extra $$?

6 - If I went with the Stealth, what is the difference between their tow attachment and just putting a ball attachment into the 2" receiver?

[stlb5]

Can anyone assist?

[NERO X]

I went with the stealth hitch. I got a couple hundred bucks off when they were running a special in January. Install is pretty easy if you're handy and saved a couple hundred bucks. Haven't towed yet, but will be towing a 7,000 lb trailer in August. Harness is OEM. Includes lifetime coding from Code My Car. Coding worked just fine. Don't know if i'd trust a cheap hitch on such a nice vehicle. Same with the harness. You dropped on the vehicle, now drop on the hitch!

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by stlb5

We are getting a new-to-us 2015 X5 M sport. I've read through a bunch of hitch posts here but still have some questions. I've narrowed my hitch selection down to the stealth hitch ($1147 with accessories), and the Curt ($210 with the cheap wiring). Quite a price swing. Other possibilities would be Curt hitch plus OEM wiring.

This will primarily be used for a bike rack and a cargo platform. Occasional trailer work. The X5 is black and I'm not too worried about the Curt hitch showing. I think the wiring is my primary concern.

Questions.

1 - Will either of the wiring kits on eTrailer, when coded, turn off parking sensors, alert when bulbs are out, etc.. or do I have to stick to OEM for that functionality? https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2015_BMW_X5.htm

2 - Is the wiring that Stealth sells the same as OEM? Would they both need to be coded the same?

3 - If I went with Curt, is there a bracket available to mount the wiring harness too for the trailer plug in?

4 - Is there a how to for the coding? I've coded my 235i with Esys and Bimmercode.

5 - Based on what I'm looking to use it for, would you go Curt or is the Stealth worth the extra $$?

6 - If I went with the Stealth, what is the difference between their tow attachment and just putting a ball attachment into the 2" receiver?

First all that coding does is activate the reverse camera to a "zoom" on the trailer area for backing up. Other than that all the harness should be OEM. Never heard of curt though. Wouldn't trust a tow solution for $200 though. And if all you want to do is bikes and a storage rack then you don't need the $1100 stealth. They have cheaper options. But if you will tow tow then yes you're best bet is them or invisihitch or just oem. I got a used oem full set up for $450 a few months back. Of course you'll be able to see it but hey it's an SUV. Don't bother me one bit.

[X Mon™]

Originally Posted by stlb5

We are getting a new-to-us 2015 X5 M sport. I've read through a bunch of hitch posts here but still have some questions. I've narrowed my hitch selection down to the stealth hitch ($1147 with accessories), and the Curt ($210 with the cheap wiring). Quite a price swing. Other possibilities would be Curt hitch plus OEM wiring.

This will primarily be used for a bike rack and a cargo platform. Occasional trailer work. The X5 is black and I'm not too worried about the Curt hitch showing. I think the wiring is my primary concern.

Questions.

1 - Will either of the wiring kits on eTrailer, when coded, turn off parking sensors, alert when bulbs are out, etc.. or do I have to stick to OEM for that functionality? https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2015_BMW_X5.htm

I would not expect anything in the way of a four pin flat harness, nor aftermarket to have proper integration with the BMW wiring functionality. As I wanted to be able to tow at full weight, whilst gaining the benefit of the vehicle dynamics controller WITH the trailer attached, I did the BMW wiring kit.

Originally Posted by stlb5

2 - Is the wiring that Stealth sells the same as OEM? Would they both need to be coded the same?

To the best of my knowledge, Stealth and Invisihitch both use OEM wiring. If you look at the installation manual for the Stealth, it parallels that of the OEM.

It's worth figuring out if you already have the towing module installed (mine did) even without the wiring.

Originally Posted by stlb5

3 - If I went with Curt, is there a bracket available to mount the wiring harness too for the trailer plug in?

Unfortunately not. However the OEM wiring is supplied with a Pollak 4/7 pin combo. I started with this: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...k/HM40978.html and then made an aluminum bracket that clamps to the rear pinch seam to mount it to. My desire was to not have to drill any painted parts on the rear my X5.

Originally Posted by stlb5

4 - Is there a how to for the coding? I've coded my 235i with Esys and Bimmercode.

You DO want to do some coding after installation, as there are options for the OEM wiring other than just PDC zoom (z.B. I enabled the trailer DRLs when I coded mine).

I'd have to pull bits and pieces of my conversations with Almaretto, but if you have Esys, then yes, you'll able to get it sorted. In short:

For the hitch wiring:
1) FA Code 3AC
2) Code the AAG Module to most current CAFD to match the vehicle I-Step level
3) Edit the CAFD to change the entries back to default for the hitch type. This ends up being:
3100 Hitch_Common_1, FA
3101 Hitch_Common_2, 32
4) Code the FDL back into the AAG->CAFD file

IIRC, doing the FA coding automatically enabled the trailer zoom option.

Feel free to PM for more info.

Originally Posted by stlb5

5 - Based on what I'm looking to use it for, would you go Curt or is the Stealth worth the extra $$?

6 - If I went with the Stealth, what is the difference between their tow attachment and just putting a ball attachment into the 2" receiver?

I have the Curt on mine and have been quite pleased. The safety chain loops are a little on the small side. I've been using their towing products for years, and still feel they're a step above the DrawTite/HiddenHitch/Reese Towing conglomerate. At the end of the day, I wanted a US style 2" receiver that I could put any standard ball mount into and have a number of different height configurations to match my trailers.

All of the "hidden" hitches only offer one fixed height solution per ball size. Moreover their 2" receivers are not intended for full load towing.

For a ball-mount I'm using a Fastway Aluminum with a Stainless Curt Ball. I HATE the Northeast oxidation.

FWIW, I'm also fairly close to having the ability to make a trailer controller harness that will plug directly into the OEM integration.


My Solution:
Home made 18' car trailer...



Installation Instructions

Curt 13077 Hitch

1x 82 71 2 349 500 - Electronics Installation Kit, Towing
1x 71 60 6 884 357 - Control Unit (Already installed in my CPO X5 35d)
8x 07 11 9 906 050 - Hex Nut
8x 07 14 7 293 278 - Rivet, Black

HM40978 Bracket

Custom aluminum clamp ~3 bucks of 1.5" Aluminum Square bar and a night shooting the shit at a friends basement machine shop.

[Live4USMC]

I have the stealth hitch with the non-oem wiring harness. Couldn’t be happier. When I remove the hitch ball the hitch setup in notmvisible from the rear. Also no cutting was required for my m sport bumper.

[stlb5]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

To the best of my knowledge, Stealth and Invisihitch both use OEM wiring. If you look at the installation manual for the Stealth, it parallels that of the OEM.

It's worth figuring out if you already have the towing module installed (mine did) even without the wiring.

Mine does have "S8SLA Trailer coupling preparation". Does that mean I don't need to purchase wiring?

[X Mon™]

Originally Posted by stlb5

Mine does have "S8SLA Trailer coupling preparation". Does that mean I don't need to purchase wiring?

Its as easy as pulling the right rear access cover in the trunk space and looking to see if the module is there, or if there is any wiring configured to said module.

My X5 (Rudy) is a CPO that was originally purchased with S8SLA, but was devoid of any wiring.

[wgxdz]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

In short:

For the hitch wiring:
1) FA Code 3AC
2) Code the AAG Module to most current CAFD to match the vehicle I-Step level
3) Edit the CAFD to change the entries back to default for the hitch type. This ends up being:
3100 Hitch_Common_1, FA
3101 Hitch_Common_2, 32
4) Code the FDL back into the AAG->CAFD file

IIRC, doing the FA coding automatically enabled the trailer zoom option.

...

I have the similar setup (OEM AAG module, OEM harness, and Reese hitch) with yours. But after VO coded 3AC, I got a trailer warning. I think the 3AC is only added for the model comes with OEM automatic folding trailer hitch, right?

[wgxdz]

I have the OEM trailer module and wire harness with Reese 44590 hitch.

As I understand, the Reese 44590 is very similar to Curt 13077, both have similar towing rating. The only difference I noticed is the way how they install. The Reese will reuse the original rear impact bar, and Curt requires that impact bar to be removed after installation.


Here is how it looks on the back. I used a "carbon fiber" hitch cover and a melanized hitch lock to match the rear diffuser, and I'm pretty happy with the finally result. I love the Stealth and Invisihitch's design, however, I'd rather save extra $300-400 bucks for the "non-hidden" looking.




In addition to X Mon™ comment, you can purchase those mounting bracket to secure the wire connector.

Links:
Hopkins 7- and 4-Pole Trailer Connector Socket
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Short
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long

I installed the connector under the bumper. It's a little bit far to reach out, but doesn't bother me too much.

[X Mon™]

Originally Posted by wgxdz

I have the similar setup (OEM AAG module, OEM harness, and Reese hitch) with yours. But after VO coded 3AC, I got a trailer warning. I think the 3AC is only added for the model comes with OEM automatic folding trailer hitch, right?

The 3AC will accommodate both. Step three in the coding comments

Originally Posted by X Mon™

1) FA Code 3AC
2) Code the AAG Module to most current CAFD to match the vehicle I-Step level
3) Edit the CAFD to change the entries back to default for the hitch type. This ends up being:
3100 Hitch_Common_1, FA
3101 Hitch_Common_2, 32
4) Code the FDL back into the AAG->CAFD file

Removes the trailer warning errors related to the automatic folding hitch, but leaves all the rest of the 3AC options active.

I think the biggest feature I like being the provision for Trailer DRLS. So for daytime driving I'll have my halos on, and the trailer parking lights on, WITHOUT the need to move off auto or have any rear truck lights illuminated.

Originally Posted by wgxdz

I have the OEM trailer module and wire harness with Reese 44590 hitch.

As I understand, the Reese 44590 is very similar to Curt 13077, both have similar towing rating. The only difference I noticed is the way how they install. The Reese will reuse the original rear impact bar, and Curt requires that impact bar to be removed after installation.

Correct, the Reese/HiddenHitch/DrawTite is also rated at 6000lbs/600lbs tounge. I've always run Curt stuff, and liked their design at the 2" receiver a slight bit more. The bumper beam was modified to fit around the flange on the Curt hitch, and I manged to retain both the bumper beam AND the factory tow-eye mount. As I also build and maintain stage rally cars, a little bit of fabrication work was nothing to run away from.

Originally Posted by wgxdz

In addition to X Mon™ comment, you can purchase those mounting bracket to secure the wire connector.

Links:
Hopkins 7- and 4-Pole Trailer Connector Socket
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Short
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long

I installed the connector under the bumper. It's a little bit far to reach out, but doesn't bother me too much.

Attachment 1855183
Attachment 1855184

I'll have to grab a few shots tonight but that's about where my 7/4pin is mounted as well. Your installation looks very nicely done.

Rather than use the clamp around the hitch style mount, I had the aluminum block made. I like that it keeps the harness and connector tucked up and out of the way, thus less prone to catch on anything under the car, or should I have a high departure angle.

[wgxdz]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

The 3AC will accommodate both.

Step three in the coding comments removes the trailer warning errors related to the automatic folding hitch, but leaves all the rest of the 3AC options active.

I think the biggest feature I like being the provision for Trailer DRLS. So for daytime driving I'll have my halos on, and the trailer parking lights on, WITHOUT the need to move off auto or have any rear truck lights illuminated.

Thanks for the input. I will give it a try.

[FenixMike]

Originally Posted by stlb5

Can anyone assist?

I did this research last week and was looking at the BMW factory one as well ($1200-1300 online if you look hard) versus the Uhaul I can get locally for $175... while I didn't get either and decided to sell the X5 instead, I had a hard time justifying 6 times the price to have the hitch hidden since its a daily driver for me. Had the X5 been my primary vehicle and had a bunch done, id be a bit more selective about seeing the hitch likely.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by wgxdz

In addition to X Mon™ comment, you can purchase those mounting bracket to secure the wire connector.

Links:
Hopkins 7- and 4-Pole Trailer Connector Socket
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Short
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long

Which of the two no-drill mount brackets did you use? Do you have a link for the cover that matches your diffuser? Nice install!

[wgxdz]

Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu

Which of the two no-drill mount brackets did you use? Do you have a link for the cover that matches your diffuser? Nice install!

I used the short bracket with the Hopkins mount. The link of tube cover is here.

Metal Steel Tube Cover (Fits 2" Receivers , Carbon Fiber Black look)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FG9FH02..._ILCLBb414ZTWW

[1norseman]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

...

All of the "hidden" hitches only offer one fixed height solution per ball size. Moreover their 2" receivers are not intended for full load towing.

....

The fixed height statement is actually incorrect.
The Stealthhitch for example is standard about 18" height, but you can order the ball mount at +2.5", or -2.5" and -5" heights.
See their "build your package" page:
https://stealthhitches.com/products/...2015-2016-2017

But you are right, you can't use the hidden hitch solutions for towing when you use loadbars, anti swaybars etc. You will need a hitch with a fixed 2" receiver, like the Curt.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by wgxdz

I used the short bracket with the Hopkins mount. The link of tube cover is here.

Metal Steel Tube Cover (Fits 2" Receivers , Carbon Fiber Black look)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FG9FH02..._ILCLBb414ZTWW

Thanks for the link. I ordered it from them, but they sent the wrong one.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vW1wxonoEjXibA3i7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bc67o5RBUXMUWDo28

Oh well. Already on the way back to them.

I tried looking up the body-colored fender flare rivets, but didn't have much luck. If your X5 is mineral white, mind sharing the part number for them?

[wgxdz]

Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu

Thanks for the link. I ordered it from them, but they sent the wrong one.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vW1wxonoEjXibA3i7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bc67o5RBUXMUWDo28

Oh well. Already on the way back to them.

I tried looking up the body-colored fender flare rivets, but didn't have much luck. If your X5 is mineral white, mind sharing the part number for them?

Sorry to hear that they send you the wrong hitch cover...

The part# of white rivet is 07147391324. Good luck.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by wgxdz

Sorry to hear that they send you the wrong hitch cover...

The part# of white rivet is 07147391324. Good luck.

Thanks for this! A BMW part that's actually kind of cheap. How refreshing

Did any of you purchase BMW part number 71606889589? This is the control unit. I didn't see much mention of it in some passing threads, but that could be due to the other manufacturers (InvisiHitch, Stealt Hitch) potentially already including it.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

Its as easy as pulling the right rear access cover in the trunk space and looking to see if the module is there, or if there is any wiring configured to said module.

My X5 (Rudy) is a CPO that was originally purchased with S8SLA, but was devoid of any wiring.

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that I do not have it:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9fmgPbuAiQqy7ks59


Although strangely, my other X5 has this:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MedWe34cXGhrvJem6

It has an on/off switch. Slightly off topic, but if anyone knows what this is, please let me know

Edited to add: I did need to purchase the trailer module and insert it into the first slot there in the top pic. The box in the second pic is a Power Magic Pro after closer inspection.

[johnsopa]

Originally Posted by wgxdz

Thanks for the input. I will give it a try.

I followed XMon's suggestions after adding my hitch, harness and AAG module.
I coded 3AC and I get the "trailer hitch not secured" message.

What did you guys do to remove this?

[johnsopa]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

For the hitch wiring:
1) FA Code 3AC
2) Code the AAG Module to most current CAFD to match the vehicle I-Step level
3) Edit the CAFD to change the entries back to default for the hitch type. This ends up being:
3100 Hitch_Common_1, FA
3101 Hitch_Common_2, 32
4) Code the FDL back into the AAG->CAFD file

Maybe the problem I'm having is with step 3. When I change the werte values to FA and 32, I'm not able to save the file because e-sys says more values were expected.