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      04-23-2019, 02:40 PM   #45
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      04-23-2019, 08:55 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David3 View Post
Did my first tow with my 2015 Xdrive35i. Pulled 2700 lbs about 750 total miles without issue. The Curt hitch fit without trimming and I made my own bracket for the electrical connector. I installed using OEM wiring and module. After VO and FL coding, all lights work properly, I get the zoom feature on the rear camera as well. Only problem to overcome is the warning: "Trailer Electrical System". Cannot seem to figure that one out just yet.
To fix your error, I suspect you need to inject a CAFD in the new trailer (AAG) module.

Last edited by ferrarif1; 04-23-2019 at 09:23 PM..
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      04-23-2019, 11:37 PM   #47
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Is you car within warranty?

If so, check with service in how they'll support any electrical issues that may arise down the road, should any happen?

Mine told me that BMW NA asks if there are any modifications to anything associated and if so, it voids the warranty. They may have been blowing smoke up my .. But other than that, I definitely see some awesome hitches on here. I was going to go with the eTrailer package until they alerted me against it.

https://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchan...ferralExt=html
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      05-04-2019, 11:19 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mermar View Post
I too debated all of the options - ended up getting a Curt 2" hitch and having my local/friendly body shop install it as bumper removal, etc required. No bumper triming required - (with full M Sport ) My purpose was for a receiver mounted bike rack - so I did not need wiring. ONLY annoyance is that when you select reverse the rear park sensors make noise the whole time you are reversing. Bit of a pain but very temporary.

I am geeky about stuff - but once you have lived with the hitch installed - you never notice it. Not worth the $$$ for invisi hitch in my humble opinion.
I just did this last week .. I installed the Curt $190.00
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...cleID=20169869 (no cutting needed)

I also installed the wiring myself... Tekonsha 4 flat kit 60 bucks

knock on wood.. no problems, no warnings, no codes or any type of message, except that you get the noise as long as you are in reverse. but after reading all your comments, I am worried if something goes wrong with electrical, will it void the warranty.....

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rp6135...blic/lightbox/
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      01-20-2020, 12:48 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben50i View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

Part numbers in pic
Do you know if the control unit is required on cars that have the "Trailer Coupling Preparation" (S8SLA) option?
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      01-20-2020, 12:31 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X Mon™ View Post
I would not expect anything in the way of a four pin flat harness, nor aftermarket to have proper integration with the BMW wiring functionality. As I wanted to be able to tow at full weight, whilst gaining the benefit of the vehicle dynamics controller WITH the trailer attached, I did the BMW wiring kit.



To the best of my knowledge, Stealth and Invisihitch both use OEM wiring. If you look at the installation manual for the Stealth, it parallels that of the OEM.

It's worth figuring out if you already have the towing module installed (mine did) even without the wiring.



Unfortunately not. However the OEM wiring is supplied with a Pollak 4/7 pin combo. I started with this: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...k/HM40978.html and then made an aluminum bracket that clamps to the rear pinch seam to mount it to. My desire was to not have to drill any painted parts on the rear my X5.



You DO want to do some coding after installation, as there are options for the OEM wiring other than just PDC zoom (z.B. I enabled the trailer DRLs when I coded mine).

I'd have to pull bits and pieces of my conversations with Almaretto, but if you have Esys, then yes, you'll able to get it sorted. In short:

For the hitch wiring:
1) FA Code 3AC
2) Code the AAG Module to most current CAFD to match the vehicle I-Step level
3) Edit the CAFD to change the entries back to default for the hitch type. This ends up being:
3100 Hitch_Common_1, FA
3101 Hitch_Common_2, 32
4) Code the FDL back into the AAG->CAFD file

IIRC, doing the FA coding automatically enabled the trailer zoom option.

Feel free to PM for more info.



I have the Curt on mine and have been quite pleased. The safety chain loops are a little on the small side. I've been using their towing products for years, and still feel they're a step above the DrawTite/HiddenHitch/Reese Towing conglomerate. At the end of the day, I wanted a US style 2" receiver that I could put any standard ball mount into and have a number of different height configurations to match my trailers.

All of the "hidden" hitches only offer one fixed height solution per ball size. Moreover their 2" receivers are not intended for full load towing.

For a ball-mount I'm using a Fastway Aluminum with a Stainless Curt Ball. I HATE the Northeast oxidation.

FWIW, I'm also fairly close to having the ability to make a trailer controller harness that will plug directly into the OEM integration.


My Solution:
Home made 18' car trailer...



Installation Instructions

Curt 13077 Hitch

1x 82 71 2 349 500 - Electronics Installation Kit, Towing
1x 71 60 6 884 357 - Control Unit (Already installed in my CPO X5 35d)
8x 07 11 9 906 050 - Hex Nut
8x 07 14 7 293 278 - Rivet, Black

HM40978 Bracket

Custom aluminum clamp ~3 bucks of 1.5" Aluminum Square bar and a night shooting the shit at a friends basement machine shop.
Hey man I know this is bringing back an old thread but do you remember where the control unit is. I have the trailer coupling option and I want to see if I have the control unit already. I've been looking around the compartment in the rear passenger side but can't seem to find it.
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      01-20-2020, 05:17 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgxdz View Post
I have the OEM trailer module and wire harness with Reese 44590 hitch.

As I understand, the Reese 44590 is very similar to Curt 13077, both have similar towing rating. The only difference I noticed is the way how they install. The Reese will reuse the original rear impact bar, and Curt requires that impact bar to be removed after installation.


Here is how it looks on the back. I used a "carbon fiber" hitch cover and a melanized hitch lock to match the rear diffuser, and I'm pretty happy with the finally result. I love the Stealth and Invisihitch's design, however, I'd rather save extra $300-400 bucks for the "non-hidden" looking.

Attachment 1855181
Attachment 1855182

In addition to X Mon™ comment, you can purchase those mounting bracket to secure the wire connector.

Links:
Hopkins 7- and 4-Pole Trailer Connector Socket
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Short
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long

I installed the connector under the bumper. It's a little bit far to reach out, but doesn't bother me too much.

Attachment 1855183
Attachment 1855184
I tried to use you as inspiration and ordered the same parts.. then I realized that I bought the curt hitch with the round bar
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      01-22-2020, 11:03 AM   #52
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I went the cheap non-OEM route and very happy with this install. If you don't need a brake controller it's super easy.

https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1671609
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      01-30-2020, 05:49 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
Hey man I know this is bringing back an old thread but do you remember where the control unit is. I have the trailer coupling option and I want to see if I have the control unit already. I've been looking around the compartment in the rear passenger side but can't seem to find it.

Grr dead tinypic. The AHM/AAG is behind the curb side rear access panel in the cargo area. It should be in a white plastic bracket that would be able to hold a few other modules.
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      01-30-2020, 08:45 AM   #54
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For those who have yet to buy a hitch, there is more than just stealth to the Stealth hitch. In the Curt and other receiver hitches there is slop in the fit between the tow bar and the receiver. There is also slop in the hitch pin. All this slop adds up to a clunky towing experience. There is no slop in the way the Stealth mounts, left or right or up and down. With the bike hitch in place there is far less movement of the bike rack, too.
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      01-30-2020, 12:34 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X Mon退 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
Hey man I know this is bringing back an old thread but do you remember where the control unit is. I have the trailer coupling option and I want to see if I have the control unit already. I've been looking around the compartment in the rear passenger side but can't seem to find it.

Grr dead tinypic. The AHM/AAG is behind the curb side rear access panel in the cargo area. It should be in a white plastic bracket that would be able to hold a few other modules.
Thanks but I just got the install done on Tuesday. I didn't have the control unit in my car so I'm not sure what the factory trailer preparation option actually does.
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      01-31-2020, 10:22 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
Thanks but I just got the install done on Tuesday. I didn't have the control unit in my car so I'm not sure what the factory trailer preparation option actually does.
The trailer preparation option includes wiring for the controller but not the controller itself.
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      03-23-2020, 11:53 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrarif1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
Thanks but I just got the install done on Tuesday. I didn't have the control unit in my car so I'm not sure what the factory trailer preparation option actually does.
The trailer preparation option includes wiring for the controller but not the controller itself.
First use towing a trailer. hauling my son back before they lock down the dorms. Hitch is From etrailer. Curt. Lots of play between the female end of the hitch and the ball mount. Etrailer claims there is a Anti rattle accessory to help with that. Anyone us it?
Attached Images
 
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      03-25-2020, 02:25 PM   #58
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Have been running Invisihitch for the 3 years along with Oem module and harness, it has been performing excellent. I would not recommend running aftermarket harness for few simple reasons; You will not be able to use none of the features oe module provides which seem small but make all the difference imo; PDC sound deactivation once trailer is attached, trailer lights fault dash display (don't do have go check all the light once you plug it your trailer it will tell you right away if one of the lights is not working) backup camera ball zoom when backing up, and most importantly safety DSC activation recalibration once trailer is hooked up. Although its a steeper price point in the beginning but in a long run and ease of use it totally worth it imo. If you want to save money can show you how; Recently I tried to add brake controller to mnie but bmw has discontineed it so I have decided to make my own using the same brake controller prodigy p2 used in their kit and make my own harness, real easy to make performs excellent towing track cars and it cost me $100 which is about $140 less BMW controller/harness cost; here is a diy how to make one if anyone is interested:
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      03-25-2020, 04:22 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radekxpl View Post
Have been running Invisihitch for the 3 years along with Oem module and harness, it has been performing excellent. I would not recommend running aftermarket harness for few simple reasons; You will not be able to use none of the features oe module provides which seem small but make all the difference imo; PDC sound deactivation once trailer is attached, trailer lights fault dash display (don't do have go check all the light once you plug it your trailer it will tell you right away if one of the lights is not working) backup camera ball zoom when backing up, and most importantly safety DSC activation recalibration once trailer is hooked up. Although its a steeper price point in the beginning but in a long run and ease of use it totally worth it imo. If you want to save money can show you how; Recently I tried to add brake controller to mnie but bmw has discontineed it so I have decided to make my own using the same brake controller prodigy p2 used in their kit and make my own harness, real easy to make performs excellent towing track cars and it cost me $100 which is about $140 less BMW controller/harness cost; here is a diy how to make one if anyone is interested:
Good DIY but I found a way to do it without cutting the OEM connector. Here's my post about it.


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25949719
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      03-31-2020, 08:57 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
Good DIY but I found a way to do it without cutting the OEM connector. Here's my post about it.


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25949719
Nice, Was looking allover for that connector end when I did mine with no luck, now it's even easier to do if you don't have to replace car end connector, good job
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      05-31-2020, 01:23 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgxdz View Post
Here is how it looks on the back. I used a "carbon fiber" hitch cover and a melanized hitch lock to match the rear diffuser, and I'm pretty happy with the finally result. I love the Stealth and Invisihitch's design, however, I'd rather save extra $300-400 bucks for the "non-hidden" looking.

I installed the connector under the bumper. It's a little bit far to reach out, but doesn't bother me too much.

Attachment 1855184
I just want to thank you for the idea & the part numbers. It took me a while cutting, bending, grinding, drilling, & tapping some scrap aluminum to get it all together, but I basically copied this idea with a mounting point that was as close to the hitch as I could get it. You've put a lot more into the look of your rear fascia with the carbon fiber stuff, but I love the tucked away look of the plug. I know the look of the Reese hitch out in the open is not as suave as the invisi-hitch, but I honestly don't think there are many people who would even know that it wasn't OEM. Honestly, I think it makes the X5 look tougher, and frankly with a 6k lbs towing capacity, I'm very impressed. That puts it on par with older American 1/2 ton trucks.

I'm still having some trouble with the wiring, but I've run the trailer wiring connector back and won't have to pull the bumper to finish it up. I have to order the AAG module, figure out the wiring, and then figure out the coding, but at least the first major steps are out of the way. So far, I'm around $400 in, and looks like the AAG module will be $130-170, then another 100-200 for coding. So, at worst case, I'm all in for $770, unless I'm missing something else that I haven't realized yet.

Anyways, here's how the hardware installation came out:
Attached Images
   

Last edited by FastDriver; 05-31-2020 at 02:22 PM..
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      08-14-2020, 02:02 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgxdz View Post
I used the short bracket with the Hopkins mount. The link of tube cover is here.

Metal Steel Tube Cover (Fits 2" Receivers , Carbon Fiber Black look)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FG9FH02..._ILCLBb414ZTWW
How exactly did you mount he short bracket? I'm looking to the same setup and want to be sure I have all of the correct parts before starting. The part says it's a no drill mount. Did you find a place to secure without drilling?
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      03-13-2021, 01:45 PM   #63
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Sorry to bring old post back, anyone know how to remove connector from wiring harness?

Ive attached it to test, but cant remove..


Update:
There is little plastic stuff you press and I was able to remove it.

Last edited by enumb; 03-13-2021 at 03:54 PM..
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      02-27-2022, 09:17 PM   #64
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I have been looking at the various tow hitch options for a while now and I have a few open issues that I would appreciate some insight on, for those who are in the know and willing to share some thoughts. I believe I have read all of the relevant threads on here.

I have debated for a while but I think I am probably going to go the simpler / lower cost Curt hitch route with OEM wiring. I like the idea of the Invisihitch, but the cost differential doesn't ultimately make sense for my personal situation. I have heard it has less "slop," in the connections which, if I towed more, might sway me as much as anything. But I am planning to use the hitch for a bike rack 90% of the time, with just enough towing that I want the full setup available for occasional use.

A few questions, as I mentioned:

1- I believe I need both the trailer light controller and the wiring harness. I am planning to go OEM for both. How can I confirm whether I have the controller in the fuse panel area?

2- How much ground clearance is lost with the Curt setup? I am assuming people will say it is the amount that the receiver hangs down below the rear bumper. I guess what I am really asking is, for anyone who uses their X5 for light off-road use, is it a loss of clearance that has any practical impact?

3- Is it reasonable to assume that a local collision center / body shop can handle installing the trailer light controller and wiring harness? I know plenty of people tackle this as a DIY, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is easy. Just want to know if I need to be super particular about choosing a shop for this.

4- If I go with all OEM wiring, will I still need coding once things are hooked up?


Thanks in advance, and sorry if these questions seem obvious to some.
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      03-01-2022, 11:34 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post

A few questions, as I mentioned:

1- I believe I need both the trailer light controller and the wiring harness. I am planning to go OEM for both. How can I confirm whether I have the controller in the fuse panel area?
Pull the curb side cover in the rear of the cargo area and give it a visual inspection. It's the black box with 4 connector ports as shown in the lower left of this photo.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post
2- How much ground clearance is lost with the Curt setup? I am assuming people will say it is the amount that the receiver hangs down below the rear bumper. I guess what I am really asking is, for anyone who uses their X5 for light off-road use, is it a loss of clearance that has any practical impact?
For the curt, it literally is the outside of the tube, and that's it. So ~2.5 inches or something like that, only on the center line of the vehicle. With the short overhang, I would consider it negligible impact. For off road use I'd rather have access to the hitch as a tow point anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post
3- Is it reasonable to assume that a local collision center / body shop can handle installing the trailer light controller and wiring harness? I know plenty of people tackle this as a DIY, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is easy. Just want to know if I need to be super particular about choosing a shop for this.
The wiring itself is relatively negligible in effort however you are inserting loose pins into connector housings as part of the process. I'd at least stick to a shop who's used to dealing with European stuff. Instructions, as you've likely seen are here: F15 Hitch Retrofit. Note that the wiring diagram at the end is incorrect.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post
4- If I go with all OEM wiring, will I still need coding once things are hooked up?
Yes. The AHM/AAG module will need to be coded. You can either add the H-wort K235 or or VO Code 3AC. If a US dealer does it, they use ISTA+ to add K235, I prefer the 3AC coding and then changing the settings in the CAFD file for the powered (European) hitch.

I get through Pittsburg every month to month and half. If you'd like someone to help with coding send me a PM.
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      03-01-2022, 06:49 PM   #66
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Thank you for this info!

It was an M50. Black E34 with black leather and a 5-spd manual. It was my first car. Let's just say it left a lasting impression.
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