Oil change

[EdgyE36]

C) Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40

This is what I use. Have always used L-M 10w-60 in my M cars and FCP recommends the 5W-40 for the 3.5 F15. I was surprised how small the filter is, and how it only took a little over 6 liters to show full on screen.

Is there anything else I should change that is due at 85k?

Don't forget the transfer case fluid.

[F15GorDe]

Originally Posted by gerson

I just read someone suggested I should also change the front and rear differential fluid on my f15. I'm going to do that when I change the transmission fluid as well about a week from today. Is there anything else I should change that is due at 85k?

Just be aware of the specific lubricants unique to each drivetrain component.

[Megatr0n]

Originally Posted by F15GorDe

Just be aware of the specific lubricants unique to each drivetrain component.

Where can I find this information I have a N55, F15, Xdrive35i.

I read on a post someone used

Front: Hypoid Axele Oil G2 (83-22-2-413–511)
2 bottles of 500ML

Rear: BMW Final-Drive Gear Oil Carbon Mod SAE 75W-85 ( 83-12-0-445-832) 2 bottles of 500ML

[Megatr0n]

Originally Posted by EdgyE36

This is what I use. Have always used L-M 10w-60 in my M cars and FCP recommends the 5W-40 for the 3.5 F15. I was surprised how small the filter is, and how it only took a little over 6 liters to show full on screen.

Don't forget the transfer case fluid.

Thank you. I just went to FCP Euro and they have one from BMW (83222409710) priced at $51.40 for 1L. Would 1L be enough?

[alphaod]

I just buy the BMW oil and I change every 5k.

I've done the oil reports and they said I go much longer intervals than that, but I don't mind this small expense.

[Megatr0n]

Originally Posted by alphaod

I just buy the BMW oil and I change every 5k.

I've done the oil reports and they said I go much longer intervals than that, but I don't mind this small expense.

I saw your reply on a post about differential fluid. Did you get to change it yourself? Which type of f15 do you have? I have a luxury line and I'm trying to figure out which fluid is for my f15.

[KCTiger]

That redneck that claims he is sophisticated suggested I reach out to Liqui Moly directly and that's just what I did.

The nice chap I spoke to recommended Liechtlauf High Tech. He didn't hesitate at all. He said feedback has been very good. I asked specifically about Molygen and he said that was good too. The Molygen isn't approved yet by BMW so perhaps that was what was holding him back.

Molygen doesn't need any additives. If you go the Leichtlauf route and are willing to use an additive, he recommended the use of Cera Tec (https://products.liqui-moly.us/additives/cera-tec.html).

If y'all have any questions, you should call them. I got a call back 25 minutes after I left a message. That is pretty impressive in my opinion. Especially considering it was some nobody calling such as myself and will never be a volume buyer of their products.

Liqui Moly has their own brand of transmission fluid, diff fluid, etc. Not sure about the others but I am going to stick with OEM or ZF fluid on the transmission.

Hope others find this useful/helpful!

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by KCTiger

That redneck that claims he is sophisticated suggested I reach out to Liqui Moly directly and that's just what I did.

The nice chap I spoke to recommended Liechtlauf High Tech. He didn't hesitate at all. He said feedback has been very good. I asked specifically about Molygen and he said that was good too. The Molygen isn't approved yet by BMW so perhaps that was what was holding him back.

Molygen doesn't need any additives. If you go the Leichtlauf route and are willing to use an additive, he recommended the use of Cera Tec (https://products.liqui-moly.us/additives/cera-tec.html).

If y'all have any questions, you should call them. I got a call back 25 minutes after I left a message. That is pretty impressive in my opinion. Especially considering it was some nobody calling such as myself and will never be a volume buyer of their products.

Liqui Moly has their own brand of transmission fluid, diff fluid, etc. Not sure about the others but I am going to stick with OEM or ZF fluid on the transmission.

Hope others find this useful/helpful!

Yes I am as sophisticated as they come, the double-wide I grew up in was of the finest quality 🤣. Growing up, I did what any proper redneck with sophisticated taste would do as a teenager: I took my dog slow 77 BMW 320i, taught myself to weld and use a plasma cutter and stuffed my father's Chevy 350 V8 from his old worktruck into it. Not to many 320i's running 11's in the 90's back then so I stood out a bit at the dragstrip

Sounds like they reccomended what I have been using. Can't speak high-enough about the
Liechtlauf High Tech 5-40 oil. I have used the Cera-tec also. It's a once a 50k thing vs the Mos2 additive is every oil change (don't use both together). The Mos2 IMHO is something you notice right away. I swear it makes your engine feel like it runs smoother, others have reported the same. Could be placebo but when I don't add it, I notice it.

I think both additives are excellent and if you use the Cera-tec, I highly recommend you poor it in while friends are watching, just for the expression on their face. It looks like orange juice that has turned lol

[EdgyE36]

Thank you. I just went to FCP Euro and they have one from BMW (83222409710) priced at $51.40 for 1L. Would 1L be enough?

Not enough. If you go this route buy the oil change kit they sell - has everything you'll need. FWIW my car took barely over 6 liters.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427566327kt-lm

[Megatr0n]

Originally Posted by EdgyE36

Not enough. If you go this route buy the oil change kit they sell - has everything you'll need. FWIW my car took barely over 6 liters.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427566327kt-lm

Im a little confused Transfer case fluid is another word for Motor Oil?

This is what I was talking about.


https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...id-83220397244

[EdgyE36]

No not the same! Didn't realize you were asking about transfer oil.
I don't know exact capacity. Here's TIS info - a little confusing. Says 1 liter, then .6 and .7:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...r-box/KMGlEPS6

[djrabbi]

So I did an oil change in September and got a low oil light last night. Only 3000 miles or so. No leaks or anything. Damn N63TU

[ponytuning]

Originally Posted by djrabbi

So I did an oil change in September and got a low oil light last night. Only 3000 miles or so. No leaks or anything. Damn N63TU

Has your driving style changed since the last oil change? Driving more in sport mode or more aggressively?
I didn't get this message on either of our 50Is (x5 and x6), but they're definitely burning oil, the idrive read between max and full before I changed oil a few days ago in my wife's 2015 x5 50i after 7000 miles of driving since the last oil change at the dealer.

[djrabbi]

Originally Posted by ponytuning

Has your driving style changed since the last oil change? Driving more in sport mode or more aggressively?
I didn't get this message on either of our 50Is (x5 and x6), but they're definitely burning oil, the idrive read between max and full before I changed oil a few days ago in my wife's 2015 x5 50i after 7000 miles of driving since the last oil change at the dealer.

Usually comfort mode but I do have a tune so probably why.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ponytuning

Has your driving style changed since the last oil change? Driving more in sport mode or more aggressively?
I didn't get this message on either of our 50Is (x5 and x6), but they're definitely burning oil, the idrive read between max and full before I changed oil a few days ago in my wife's 2015 x5 50i after 7000 miles of driving since the last oil change at the dealer.

The TU's are still going to eventually suffer the same fate as the N63 as you get closer to 100k miles. Valve stem seal replacement is the only fix. BMW was bit off on their tunning on the first gen, with the N63 needing it by 60-70k. The N63TU will need it by 100-120k. Driving style (city vs highways) Greatly affects this.

The high temps the N63TU runs at, along with the heat & sound protection, reflecting and trapping heat in the valve covers, and being a hot vee design, creates a perfect storm of cooking the hell out of the seals, causing premature heat oxidation and failure long before they normally would.

They improved it on the TU but just enough to last past warranty periods.

[ponytuning]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

The TU's are still going to eventually suffer the same fate as the N63 as you get closer to 100k miles. Valve stem seal replacement is the only fix. BMW was bit off on their tunning on the first gen, with the N63 needing it by 60-70k. The N63TU will need it by 100-120k. Driving style (city vs highways) Greatly affects this.

The high temps the N63TU runs at, along with the intake design, reflecting and trapping heat in the valve covers, and being a hot vee design, creates a perfect storm of cooking the hell out of the seals, causing premature heat oxidation and failure long before they normally would.

They improved it on the TU but just enough to last past warranty periods.

If it does happen then I hope it's going to be within my extended warranty period (40K miles left on the x5 and 30K miles on the x6), if not I plan on DIY since it doesn't look like a very complicated job (very laborious but do-able IMO).

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ponytuning

If it does happen then I hope it's going to be within my extended warranty period (40K miles left on the x5 and 30K miles on the x6), if not I plan on DIY since it doesn't look like a very complicated job (very laborious but do-able IMO).

Ya it's not bad, just will take about 40 hours to do. I am in the middle of it now on my N63, the TU is just a bit more complex with the adjustable valve lift equipment but still very doable for anyone who is decent with a wrench. I rented the tools off eBay.

[ponytuning]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Ya it's not bad, just will take about 40 hours to do. I am in the middle of it now on my N63, the TU is just a bit more complex with the adjustable valve lift equipment but still very doable for anyone who is decent with a wrench. I rented the tools off eBay.

Nice! Keep us updated on how it went.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ponytuning

Nice! Keep us updated on how it went.

I'll post back after I am done, its turned out to be more then just a valve guide seal replacement though...(btw I have a 150K on the engine (50K in one year alone) when I saw the condition of the valves on a borescope, I had to pull the heads. (I dont have a lift so had to pull the heads in car, extra fun)

The carbon buildup on the pistons was like nothing I have ever seen before, as well as on the exhaust valves and they were pitted badly from burning so much oil (previous owner used crap oil and turbo oil return lines were clogged, when I got it was burning a quart every 100, yes 100 miles...amazing it still ran as good as it did.

After I fixed the turbo lines it still was burning a quart every 700 miles, made a custom catch-can and adjusted the CCV pressure got me to a quart every 1500 but only so much can be done with bad guide seals. Now I am paying for the sins of running it for so long burning oil. I decided to port and polish everything while I was in there....have about another week to go before I am done...Before and after of the intake ports below, should help a little.

[ponytuning]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I'll post back after I am done, its turned out to be more then just a valve guide seal replacement though...(btw I have a 150K on the engine (50K in one year alone) when I saw the condition of the valves on a borescope, I had to pull the heads. (I dont have a lift so had to pull the heads in car, extra fun)

The carbon buildup on the pistons was like nothing I have ever seen before, as well as on the exhaust valves and they were pitted badly from burning so much oil (previous owner used crap oil and turbo oil return lines were clogged, when I got it was burning a quart every 100, yes 100 miles...amazing it still ran as good as it did.

After I fixed the turbo lines it still was burning a quart every 700 miles, made a custom catch-can and adjusted the CCV pressure got me to a quart every 1500 but only so much can be done with bad guide seals. Now I am paying for the sins of running it for so long burning oil. I decided to port and polish everything while I was in there....have about another week to go before I am done...Before and after of the intake ports below, should help a little.

Great work, I’m sure the car will reward you with many more years of fun! Btw, how reachable are the parts with the engine still on the axle? Do you need to have tiny hands, or are the tools sufficient to get the job done without lifting the engine? i’m also assuming you have the car just on stands, or is it on a lift?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ponytuning

Great work, I’m sure the car will reward you with many more years of fun! Btw, how reachable are the parts with the engine still on the axle? Do you need to have tiny hands, or are the tools sufficient to get the job done without lifting the engine? i’m also assuming you have the car just on stands, or is it on a lift?

Thanks and I hope so, when they are running right, the 50i's are amazing to drive. Everything is pretty smooth except for the rear cylinders valves are trickey to see what you are doing. Automotive mirrors/borsecope helps greatly. I'm an average guy (6ft, 220lbs) and while things were tight, there is just enough room to make it.

I don't have a lift (wish I did) so had no choice but to pull the heads while in the truck so I could lap the exhaust valves due to the pitting. Don't reccomend it lol. My case is an extreme example, most will only have to do the valve guide seals. It will take you about 40 hours from start to finish for the first timer.

[Megatr0n]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Highly recommend Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 with 1.5 cans of Mos2 additive. But just don't take my word for it, below are pics of the engine (the notorious N63) I took down to replace the valve guide seals (it needed new seals bad as you can notice by the massive carbon buildup on the pistons, the N63 is notorious for this, the N63TU will be also as it ages but not to quite the extent the N63 was).

The cylinder walls, cam bearings, journals, all have nearly no wear and look brand new. The valve guides themselves have no play and feel as perfect as a newly rebuild cylinder head. Quite remarkable for a now 8 year old engine with over 150k on it. I change every 7 to 10k

Can you tell me the process of when and how you add the MOS2? I never added this before and I want to do it correctly.