S63/N63 Engine spun rod bearings damage & Rebuild

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

I am interested in this comment/observation, and your reason for going with a 5w-40 oil rather than a 5w-30 (or 0w-30) especially given the tight clearances?

Just want to understand different opinions/views because the topic of "what is the best oil" has become a recent obsession of mine. And not to high-jack the thread too much, but I have noticed significantly less oil usage with 0w-40 as compared to 0w-30 over the same miles and driving habits and conditions.

Iluvbmw. I dont think there is such thing as the "best oil" you will have make a decision based on the products you have available in the market, Climate conditions of where you live, driving style (tracking or not) and also Oil change intervals

In my case i can't use 5w -30 due to our hot weather almost all year round and i opt for slightly thicker 5w-40. Additionally while assembling my engine i measured bearing clearances they were within spec as i used OEM bearings but on higher side of the allowable range.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Interesting. I can't speak for the OP, but I think there was a thread somewhere (maybe in F85/F86 board) where there is an opinion that LM stuff is an overpriced/overhype/overmarketed and ultimately sub-par product. edycol ?

I don't mean to say LM is bad or is the best, I just changed my perspective of oils and thats why i changed brand but sometimes i question all the heaven and earth they promise users with all the marketing of different array products.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

Because now Im leaning more towards low SAPS engine oils (Sulphate Ash, Phosphorus, sulfur) when making my decision.

Sulpahate ash does not burn off easily which forms into carbon deposits on the intake valves or slugde inside the engine or even end up in the combustion chamber.
Almost All BMW car owners will have oil end up where its not supposed to due to weak PCV system, bad valve stem seals, leaky turbos etc.

And for the long run this deposits pile up and block an oil passage or more or even find its way into the combustion chamber and that can cause LSPI because carbon deposits when in the cylinders can retain heat and get hot enough in some spots to ignite the fuel by accident before the spark plugs during compression stroke.

Ofcourse factors like HTHS, viscosity index, Noack, flash point etc. are important but all the good brands in the market have relative few differences which shouldn’t matter if you intend on maintaining short oil change intervals.

Ofcourse this is my humble opinion.

There is some truth to that.
First of all, sulfated ash is byproduct. It cannot find its way into passages etc. There is some, SOME evidence that low-SAPS oils will leave less deposits on intake valves. But, that is about it.
Second, no V8 has LSPI issues. At least those that don’t have dramatic tunes. LSPI Is primary concern in small turbo wngines, 1.5ltr, SOME 2ltr mostly bcs. they have very aggressive eco mode or in stick shifts when there is very low rpm and too much boost. If you run low-SAPS oil doesn’t mean you prevented LSPI (let’s assume your engine has that issue, and N63 does not). Both high-SAPS and Low-SAPS oils can have low or high calcium content. That is key in preventing LSPI. Too much calcium rects violently with too much pressure at low rpms. There are low SAPS oils with more calcium than many high-SAPS oils.
So, you are shaking wrong tree here.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Interesting. I can't speak for the OP, but I think there was a thread somewhere (maybe in F85/F86 board) where there is an opinion that LM stuff is an overpriced/overhype/overmarketed and ultimately sub-par product. edycol ?

LM carries all most stringent approvals. But that is about it. I would put it in same category with Castrol Edge 5W40. Average product.
There are many other oils I would go vefore LM. One thing I don’t appreciate with LM is that they hide HTHS numbers like snake its legs. Motul, Mobil1 are far more transparent. That also says something.

[WZS_M]

edycol what is your preferred oil and why?

[Trion_f85]

Hi, edycol Thanks for your clarification

So are you of the opinion that oil that has found its way into the combustion chamber can not contaminate fuel octane levels and lead to LSPI??

In this case a V8 N63 or S63

[Stamps]

Leaving this right here for anyone else that isn’t tracking fully

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition

[Trion_f85]

I do find this article very helpful concerning engine oils, types, approvals & recommendations.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

[Trion_f85]

Car has been serviced 1st time around 1,200km after rebuild

Thankfully oil was clear with no metal particles.



Also i changed the filters to my oil catch cans (vent to air) as they were looking dirty with signs of oil soak. I did find oil laying around the catch can outlet where the filter is fixed. This goes to prove the importance of catch cans otherwise this oil will be dumped into the intake hose and unto the engine to be eventually burnt.






I also added an oil cap crankcase breather (with a one way check valve) now i have 3 exits where blowby gasses are expelled thereby reducing crankcase pressures and improving throttle response.




Also a bit of something for the interior : ) and the flashing brake lights will be installed later

[I Luv BMW]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

Also a bit of something for the interior : ) and the flashing brake lights will be installed later
Attachment 3269087

Looks great! Links for the shifter knob and base cover please?

[Trion_f85]

Sure

Carbon Fiber Gear Knob Cover

Carbon Fiber Gear Shifter Surround

[Trion_f85]

Another S63tu (F10 M5) Engine Failure that could have been prevented 🥺


https://youtu.be/Wh6YMQS9rAg?si=_YiW-wuIRqetNlxz

[DrVirz]

Very interesting thread! I too am in the process of rebuilding my S63 (X5M F85) that I bought with a knock in the bottom end. Spun big ends on cyl 2 and 6. The block will need to be replaced due to bad cyl scoring on 2 and 6, so am currently on the hunt for a decent used block. Pics attached for those interested.

I have a question, how do you treat the BMW bearing designations when going oversize and aftermarket bearings. In my case, I will be going 0.5 on big end, 0.25 on main.

Apologies, not trying to hijack your thread. Thought this thread could be a good source of info for other in the future.

For those interested, I have attahced a list of parts I have bought/need (green need, yellow don't need). May have missed a couple of things here or there...

Cheers

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by DrVirz

I have a question, how do you treat the BMW bearing designations when going oversize and aftermarket bearings. In my case, I will be going 0.5 on big end, 0.25 on main.

Apologies, not trying to hijack your thread. Thought this thread could be a good source of info for other in the future.

Thank you for sharing your experience as well as an extensive detailing on your costs. Feel free to post about your progress so we can help out where we can.

So youre actually going undersize and not oversize as machining the crankshaft reduces the OD of the shaft, requiring bearing shells with a smaller ID

BMW will usually express that as
Main bearing "+0.25mm" or 64.75mm (+0.25mm)
Con rod bearing "+0.50mm" or 53.50mm (+0.5mm)
I compiled the part numbers in the pdf i shared on page1 of this thread

Bear in mind
Standard big end journal is 54mm STD
Standard main journal is 65mm STD
Rear Seal diameter is 100mm

But why dont you consider buying the block complete with its rotating assembly? (crank, pistons, rods etc) instead of machining the your crankshaft

[musa]

Congratulations on fixing this issue. However, I absolutely doubt it was caused by valve stem seals leak at 58k miles. Did you take a look at those seals on the engine to come to the conclusion that the VSS was the culprit? The N62 engine had the weakest valve stem seals and I replaced them at around 125k miles on my old X5 E53 after the vehicle started emitting huge plumes of the smoke of shame on extended idles (5-10minutes, e.g., at stop lights in heavy traffic). They were brittle and you could actually see the gap between the seals and the valve stems. The seals were improved on the N63 and later models. In fact, N62 folks use the N63 seals when doing the replacement. They leak typically due to extended oil intervals or engine overheating.

[Trion_f85]

Thanks,
I have already come to peace as to what lead to the engine damage and tbh no longer dwelling on that coz i am now well over 5k miles since rebuild. I moved on lol

But the main point of my thread is help explore different other options when faced with unfortunate engine failure instead of waiting for long months trying to decide fate of the car.
In terms of both time saving & costs

[gtp375]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

Ok I will try to make this as short as possible.
I own a 2016 BMW X5M F85 with a little above 58k miles and few weeks ago, i started noticing random blue smoke from the tailpipe especially during idle after engine reaches operating temperatures but no smoke whatsoever during cold start also had above normal oil consumption. Bear in mind not the kind of smoking issue that blows out smoke like a chimney, but this was barely noticeable. As this engine is notorious for this issue, I knew it had to be either PCV lines, leaky turbos, or valve stem seals.
After visual inspection of my engine bay, I noticed one of the PCV lines (bank1) was leaky at the non- return valve with some oil residue but the pipe was still intact and I thought this has to be the culprit (but I was wrong). I always wanted to run a dual catch can setup and this was the right time. After reading some few threads I decided to go for a Vent to Atmosphere oil catch can setup, I posted my setup on the BMS catch can thread,
After installing catch cans, there was still same smoking issue and oil consumption and this didn’t seem to solve the problem, also I ruled out the turbos because during installing the oil catch can, I removed the air supply hose and inspected them but there was no oil residue anywhere.

Fast forward to a week after all this, I was driving home in the evening I heard a scraping sound, and I pulled over and quickly turned off the engine. I checked under the car and the engine but there was nothing abnormal. I went back in to start the engine again, but it wouldn’t start, and a Starter malfunction message came on i-drive. I tried again and again but all I heard was a clicking sound at that point a called for a tow truck. The car was put into neutral and towed back home.
Next day I scanned the car and read a SUPER-KNOCKING, CYLINDER 5: INJECTION SWTICH OFF

Attachment 3247580
Attachment 3247579
Attachment 3247581


I knew this had to be something serious. I turned the engine by hand and would even move an inch. Also I checked the starter motor from under the car at the flywheel to see whether it was faulty but it wasn’t.
And at this point I knew the fate of my engine was sealed and it would need to be overhauled and well it was.

Firstly i think everyone on this platform should give you a gold medal. You have been so detailed and informative with your issue. I have EXACTLY the same smoke issues. Only once it reaches temp does it smoke. Oil consumption is normal. Just really bizarre.

98,000km.

2011 N63.

It’s a ticking time bomb I’m guessing.

Thank you again for your post.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by gtp375

Firstly i think everyone on this platform should give you a gold medal. You have been so detailed and informative with your issue. I have EXACTLY the same smoke issues. Only once it reaches temp does it smoke. Oil consumption is normal. Just really bizarre.

98,000km.

2011 N63.

It’s a ticking time bomb I’m guessing.

Thank you again for your post.

Hey gtp, thanks for your kind words

Hopefully its not a ticking bomb, the smoking could be due several reasons on the N63/S63 mainly
1. Leaky turbos 2. PCV hose 3. Valve stem seals 4. Worn out piston rings 5. Cylinder wall scoring.

U ll be lucky if its 1 or 2, so i’ll advice if you rule them out first by checking the intake boot/pipe connected at the compressor side of your turbos for any noticeable “fresh” oil residue. If present then your problem is at 1 or 2

If no fresh residue on the intake boot and you have consistent smoke (light or heavy smoke) either at cold start or operating temperature or even on both scenarios then this could possibly be 3 (valve stem seals)

With 4 or 5, your car will smoke like a chimney non stop, all day all night lol

But whatever case of oil smoking you find yourself in, before you eventually fix the issue, just make sure you use

1. High octane fuel
2. Change your spark plugs if you havent (in the last 30k miles)
3. If possible use thinner 0w-30 for the meantime.
4. Avoid heavy throttle at low rpms
5. Drive in sport mode (more fuel is injected)