S63/N63 Engine spun rod bearings damage & Rebuild

[Trion_f85]

Ok I will try to make this as short as possible.
I own a 2016 BMW X5M F85 with a little above 58k miles and few weeks ago, i started noticing random blue smoke from the tailpipe especially during idle after engine reaches operating temperatures but no smoke whatsoever during cold start also had above normal oil consumption. Bear in mind not the kind of smoking issue that blows out smoke like a chimney, but this was barely noticeable. As this engine is notorious for this issue, I knew it had to be either PCV lines, leaky turbos, or valve stem seals.
After visual inspection of my engine bay, I noticed one of the PCV lines (bank1) was leaky at the non- return valve with some oil residue but the pipe was still intact and I thought this has to be the culprit (but I was wrong). I always wanted to run a dual catch can setup and this was the right time. After reading some few threads I decided to go for a Vent to Atmosphere oil catch can setup, I posted my setup on the BMS catch can thread,
After installing catch cans, there was still same smoking issue and oil consumption and this didn’t seem to solve the problem, also I ruled out the turbos because during installing the oil catch can, I removed the air supply hose and inspected them but there was no oil residue anywhere.

Fast forward to a week after all this, I was driving home in the evening I heard a scraping sound, and I pulled over and quickly turned off the engine. I checked under the car and the engine but there was nothing abnormal. I went back in to start the engine again, but it wouldn’t start, and a Starter malfunction message came on i-drive. I tried again and again but all I heard was a clicking sound at that point a called for a tow truck. The car was put into neutral and towed back home.
Next day I scanned the car and read a SUPER-KNOCKING, CYLINDER 5: INJECTION SWTICH OFF






I knew this had to be something serious. I turned the engine by hand and would even move an inch. Also I checked the starter motor from under the car at the flywheel to see whether it was faulty but it wasn’t.
And at this point I knew the fate of my engine was sealed and it would need to be overhauled and well it was.

[Trion_f85]

Moral of the story: Do not delay a valve seal job even if it doesnt look serious,
In my case I didn't have smoke at start up and i automatically assumed i had a bit of time.

[stocktree]

Damn that sucks.
But I'm not sure what you mean by "valve seal job", and how that has anything to do with worn bearings and pistons?
What's your plan now?

[S EyeLand]

Sorry to hear this. I've decided to run my 16 into the ground and whenever the engine goes ill junk it or rebuild it. It's at 84k miles, I've taken care of it, but I don't expect it to last much longer. Threads like this are becoming more and more common.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by stocktree

Damn that sucks.
But I'm not sure what you mean by "valve seal job", and how that has anything to do with worn bearings and pistons?
What's your plan now?

Well the oil in the combustion chamber from a failed valve seal caused the super-knocking (Low speed pre igniton)

Usually this should not lead to complete engine damage. The ECU tried to mitigate the issue by cutting off injection of fuel to the affected cylinder. And this process probably happened more than once which lead to the worn pistons.

The sound i heard was probably the pistons grinding on the cylinder walls and that caused the bearings to spin. Which is why the engine didnt cut out on me while i was driving. I turned it off by myself after hearing the sound but when i tried to turn it back on it was too late.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by S EyeLand

Sorry to hear this. I've decided to run my 16 into the ground and whenever the engine goes ill junk it or rebuild it. It's at 84k miles, I've taken care of it, but I don't expect it to last much longer. Threads like this are becoming more and more common.

Thank you, you can probably rebuild it if the damage is not severe but for me im thinking of getting a used engine then change all the bearings, all gaskets and new valve seals ofcourse and any other part recomended to change

[stocktree]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

Well the oil in the combustion chamber from a failed valve seal caused the super-knocking (Low speed pre igniton)

Usually this should not lead to complete engine damage. The ECU tried to mitigate the issue by cutting off injection of fuel to the affected cylinder. And this process probably happened more than once which lead to the worn pistons.

The sound i heard was probably the pistons grinding on the cylinder walls and that caused the bearings to spin. Which is why the engine didnt cut out on me while i was driving. I turned it off by myself after hearing the sound but when i tried to turn it back on it was too late.

Valve stem seals don't leak that much, that they could fill the cylinder.
I'd guess the knock sensor picked up the bearing knock.
Worn bearings and pistons, is usually from driving abuse, extended oil changes, driving a cold engine hard, etc

[ArthurMorgan]

Were you running a tune?

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by stocktree

Valve stem seals don't leak that much, that they could fill the cylinder.
I'd guess the knock sensor picked up the bearing knock.
Worn bearings and pistons, is usually from driving abuse, extended oil changes, driving a cold engine hard, etc

Mate, i never mentioned my cylinders were filled with oil, maybe you're confusing the stuck head gasket on the cylinder head to be oil.

Nevertheless your opinion is welcome. But if you gave better attention to the pictures you would have noticed the valves that had the most oil residue had spun bearings on their corresponding crankshaft journals
Also same valves had oil on their corresponding exhaust manifold outlet
Also not all bearings spun, only 4 did each with their corresponding pistons worn

Bear in mind all main bearings showed little amount of wear which is normal for the car's mileage
Without all that oil i would surely had a running engine by this time. Ofcourse not all engines will last forever.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by ArthurMorgan

Were you running a tune?

Yes i was, Stage 1 with catless downpipes. I will have my car back on the road very soon.

[stocktree]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

Mate, i never mentioned my cylinders were filled with oil, maybe you're confusing the stuck head gasket on the cylinder head to be oil.

Nevertheless your opinion is welcome. But if you gave better attention to the pictures you would have noticed the valves that had the most oil residue had spun bearings on their corresponding crankshaft journals
Also same valves had oil on their corresponding exhaust manifold outlet
Also not all bearings spun, only 4 did each with their corresponding pistons worn

Bear in mind all main bearings showed little amount of wear which is normal for the car's mileage
Without all that oil i would surely had a running engine by this time. Ofcourse not all engines will last forever.

I don't want to argue, but your crank is messed up. That was not caused by leaking valve stem seals. Oil was getting in the cylinder and on your valves because the cylinder walls are scratched up.
You going to rebuild this? Is it even possible? Can you get oversized pistons and a new crank?

[I Luv BMW]

Thanks for sharing. I have had my lifetime's share of spun bearing/seized engine nightmare recently.

So were you able to rebuild your existing engine, or are you refurbishing a used engine as previously mentioned?

[Chilled]

So it flooded 1 and 4 with oil on a bank, but you only spun bearings on the first 4 pistons (the first 2 cylinders of each bank. Just looking at the photos, kinda hard to tell)?

Plus if its flooded with oil, I get the detonation and the bent rod, but that shouldn't spin a bearing tho, should it? If you bent the rod significantly, sure it can split the caps and seized up.

Those gouges look deep, would be good to know how far the stock block can be machined before its a sleeve job, and/or if BMW make oversized pistons for that size.


Did you pull the engine yourself? Did you pull it up and out or drop? If up and out, any advice?


S EyeLand Hey your alive? Good to see you.

[Trion_f85]

Difference between light knock (Detonation) vs Super Knock (LSPI)

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Thanks for sharing. I have had my lifetime's share of spun bearing/seized engine nightmare recently.

So were you able to rebuild your existing engine, or are you refurbishing a used engine as previously mentioned?

Yea i read your posts, I saw your car was back on the road. Congrats

As mentioned previously, I bought a fairly used engine, and we opened it up and rebuilt it. Will share everything

[Trion_f85]

Well here is a brief summary of everything that happened


Parts Bought
1- Oil return cover 11428092560
2- Upper oil pan gasket 11137566808
3- Lower oil pan gasket 11137566644
4- Engine Oil Drain Plug 07119905428
5- Crankshaft seal 11147647381
6- Lower timing case cover gasket 11147566411
7- Set of cylinder head bolts 11127607557 (x2)
8- 16pcs Connecting rod bolts 11247845511
9- High Pressure Fuel pump gasket 11127588416 (2pcs)
10- Water pump seal 11517549445
11- Exhaust manifold gaskets (2pcs) 11627589106
12- Injector seals (8pcs)13537591006
13- Turbo Oil return pipe seal (2pcs) 11428624158
14- Head Gasket 1 & Head Gasket 2 11127567764 11127567765
15- Valve cover gasket 11127614700 11127614701
16- Valve stem seals repair kit 11340054492
17- Main bearing cap bolts (Collar screw) - 11117628302
18. Solenoid valve (SOLV) - 11368605123 (4pcs)




1. New Torque wrench
2. Angular Torque guage
3. Micrometer
4. Dial bore guage




Engine Block




Engine Block




Main Bearing cap bolts




Connecting rod bolts




Oil Pump




Upper Oil pan




Oil Pickup tube




Lower Oil pan & Oil level sensor




Cylinder Heads




Timing



Short Engine




Engine Back in




Prep for 1st Start, Oil priming, Charging Battery (MOMENT OF TRUTH)



ALL DONE

[Trion_f85]

Torque specifications

[Trion_f85]

https://youtube.com/shorts/_bUbD0DiqQ0?feature=share

[Chilled]

Wow, that is impressive.

That looks like a new/reconditioned block or did you fix yours? If you fixed it, what are the new bore/piston sizes?

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Wow, that is impressive.

That looks like a new/reconditioned block or did you fix yours? If you fixed it, what are the new bore/piston sizes?

Hi, chilled, Just to clarify i did not use anything from my old engine apart from
1. Oil pan (upper & lower & oil level sensor)
2. Cylinder heads 1 & 2 (valve stem seals were replaced and all valves were checked to be good and lapping okay)
3. Engine ancillaries (water pump, A/C compressor, turbos, starter etc)


NEW BLOCK
I got a fairly used engine block and mounting parts, It came coupled with all its attachments below, it was removed from another car that had a rear end accident so i paid a single price for all but anyone can also order parts seperately.

1. Engine block with main bearing caps & oil spray nozzles
2. Crankshaft - 11217616597
3. Con rods - 11247843237
4. Pistons with rings - 11258607933
5. Oil pump & pickup - 11417643256 & 11417850247
6. Timing case cover bottom - 11148483795
7. Timing chain with tensioning rail 1 & 2 - 11318658027 & 11318658028
8. Rear main seal - 11148483798
9. Rear coolant cover - 11148483799
10. Oil return cover - 11428092560

[Trion_f85]

What i mean

[Trion_f85]

Then ofcourse all bearings (con rod and main bearings) were replaced also with new OEM ones.