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      01-10-2020, 10:12 AM   #111
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Nice DIY. Thanks for posting.
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      02-22-2020, 05:09 PM   #112
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Replacement part not same

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Step 6: now we get to remove the lower nut and ball joint. Under the knuckle there is a 27mm or 1 1/16" 16 tooth nut. Idk if it's 16 but a normal hex socket won't work. Need the multi tooth kind. This was actually quite easy to loosen with the breaker bar. Once off though the ball joint is pretty set in the knuckle. I had to whack it several times with a small sledge hammer I have to get it out. BMW has a special tool press that push in it out. Poppy cock. It's never going back in my car so smash away! On about the 8th hit it literally popped straight on and fell on the floor. Easy peezy.
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
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      02-29-2020, 10:31 PM   #113
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What brand did you buy? Did you install it yet?
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      03-02-2020, 04:19 PM   #114
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Any one have a good dealership/shop in the Ohio, KY, IN regions where they had this done?
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      03-02-2020, 04:48 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGBMWX5 View Post
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
Something is not right there. You buy the wrong ones?
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      03-02-2020, 10:06 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Is thrust arm just another word for control arm?
This is a good question that nobody seemed to answer. Though there is a lot of conflicting info out there it seems that thrust arm is another name for the lower control arm. Can anyone else confirm?
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      03-02-2020, 10:14 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
This is a good question that nobody seemed to answer. Though there is a lot of conflicting info out there it seems that thrust arm is another name for the lower control arm. Can anyone else confirm?
It would normally be called a control arm on many cars because there is only one part on the lower suspension. But the x5 has two separate parts for the lower suspension arms.
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      03-02-2020, 10:17 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboawd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoold2003 View Post
This is a good question that nobody seemed to answer. Though there is a lot of conflicting info out there it seems that thrust arm is another name for the lower control arm. Can anyone else confirm?
It would normally be called a control arm on many cars because there is only one part on the lower suspension. But the x5 has two separate parts for the lower suspension arms.
Ya so I guess it would be the upper lower control arm
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      03-02-2020, 10:36 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGBMWX5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Step 6: now we get to remove the lower nut and ball joint. Under the knuckle there is a 27mm or 1 1/16" 16 tooth nut. Idk if it's 16 but a normal hex socket won't work. Need the multi tooth kind. This was actually quite easy to loosen with the breaker bar. Once off though the ball joint is pretty set in the knuckle. I had to whack it several times with a small sledge hammer I have to get it out. BMW has a special tool press that push in it out. Poppy cock. It's never going back in my car so smash away! On about the 8th hit it literally popped straight on and fell on the floor. Easy peezy.
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
From looking at OP's pics from page 1, your new control arm looks the same as the one he posted.
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      03-03-2020, 02:44 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboawd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGBMWX5 View Post
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
Something is not right there. You buy the wrong ones?
Yeah I don't know.
I just ordered the repair kit which basically replaces the rubber bushings so I can just get help from a shop to press them out and press the replacements in so I can avoid the issue of the tapered vs non tapered
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      03-03-2020, 02:45 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5Guy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGBMWX5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Step 6: now we get to remove the lower nut and ball joint. Under the knuckle there is a 27mm or 1 1/16" 16 tooth nut. Idk if it's 16 but a normal hex socket won't work. Need the multi tooth kind. This was actually quite easy to loosen with the breaker bar. Once off though the ball joint is pretty set in the knuckle. I had to whack it several times with a small sledge hammer I have to get it out. BMW has a special tool press that push in it out. Poppy cock. It's never going back in my car so smash away! On about the 8th hit it literally popped straight on and fell on the floor. Easy peezy.
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
From looking at OP's pics from page 1, your new control arm looks the same as the one he posted.
Agree but it ain't the same as the one that came out of the cR
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      03-31-2020, 12:18 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGBMWX5 View Post
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
Haven’t worked on an F15/16 but it looks like the spindle insert came out with the ball joint. Can’t you remove that insert/collar and lightly hammer in back into the spindle?

Does the below look different from your spindle carrier? Those inserts usually stay in the spindle and not on the ball joint.
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Last edited by SF07e70; 03-31-2020 at 12:30 AM..
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      03-31-2020, 03:15 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by possib1edoc View Post
Any one have a good dealership/shop in the Ohio, KY, IN regions where they had this done?
BMW of Cincinnati
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      03-31-2020, 03:16 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoeTE87 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by possib1edoc View Post
Any one have a good dealership/shop in the Ohio, KY, IN regions where they had this done?
BMW of Cincinnati
Thanks! How much did they charge?
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      03-31-2020, 03:19 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SF07e70 View Post
Haven’t worked on an F15/16 but it looks like the spindle insert came out with the ball joint. Can’t you remove that insert/collar and lightly hammer in back into the spindle?

Does the below look different from your spindle carrier? Those inserts usually stay in the spindle and not on the ball joint.
And what keeps that insert in place? From turning?
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      03-31-2020, 03:33 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by possib1edoc View Post
Thanks! How much did they charge?
I know the SM at BMW of Cincinnati, so I took my x5 to him.

He called me back within a few hours and told me that BMW NA was covering 75% of it, including alignment. Which was $450. OTD was $400 (had a service coupon)
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      03-19-2022, 10:25 AM   #127
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Does the creaking from this start out as a smaller / more subtle creak then develop to a larger one over time?
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      03-20-2022, 07:00 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by parthpatel1 View Post
Does the creaking from this start out as a smaller / more subtle creak then develop to a larger one over time?
Yes. As the rubber starts to give it'll get louder and louder and more often. Just had to change my passenger side after another 20k miles. I decided to go the FCP route and used a higher quality aftermarket. Figured I'd give it a go since I've changed these things almost 3x each side in the 50k miles I've owned her. Wife drives it now.
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      03-29-2022, 09:19 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SF07e70 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGBMWX5 View Post
For awareness I bought a replacement part for this work and to my surprise it is different.
Haven’t worked on an F15/16 but it looks like the spindle insert came out with the ball joint. Can’t you remove that insert/collar and lightly hammer in back into the spindle?

Does the below look different from your spindle carrier? Those inserts usually stay in the spindle and not on the ball joint.
Missed this but yes this is most assured what happened. Never found a true bushing and ball joint replacement kit either way can't be cheaper than replacing once with FCP and then free replacements for life.

How did he remove it is the question. I usually loosen that nut all the way and then put it back on just enough. Then hit with my mini sledge until it comes loose.
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      04-02-2022, 10:30 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjk1285 View Post
I had a similar clunk sound from the left front of the car (only 26k miles, 35iX). This would only occur a few times in the morning when the car was rested overnight. Rest of the day the sound was either much quieter or non-existent. Sound would occur when the weight of the vehicle shifted forward (hard braking at LOW speed, or coming out of a small ramp). Sound was more subtle going over bumps but I heard it a few times.

I used Maverick's DIY and replaced: the sway bar end links, control arms and thrust arms ("tension strut" per BMW) on both sides without resolution. I also had to replace a torn right CV boot and rebuild the right CV joint which was painful). The sound for whatever reason (probably because the car was being jacked up and things were shifting) would go away for a couple days after I did work on the front end but it consistently came back. It drove me crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I considered replacing the outer tie rods and the upper control arms which would have essentially replaced every moving part in the front suspension (except struts and drive line/wheel bearing).

Other issues I read about: loose reinforcement plate bolts (mine were tight) and worn strut mount (didn't see any disintegrating plastic junk in the engine bay side). I must have spent a good 10-20 hours researching this problem.

I finally crawled under the car and decided to tighten every bolt I could see. While doing this I noticed the two subframe bolts were not fully tight. Not loose and wobbly, but the bolt would turn with just a small 3/8 drive ratchet. I'm estimating there was only about 20-30ftlb of torque there. I torqued the bolts on each side as tight as I could with a breaker bar.....

ABSOLUTE SILENCE.... No more noise for about 3 weeks now.

I suggest everyone having this issue to first check these bolts. My car is only 4 yrs old with <30k miles and this happened. also check the reinforcement plate bolts, although mine were very tight already. -- This is essentially free. I think I spent ~$700 on the six Lemforder parts I replaced.

I'm now worried there are more bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis, but cant figure it out from the diagrams. If anybody knows of additional bolts that can be checked please chime in.




WOW!!! I think you just solved my problem! And doesn't look like anyone else mentioned or tried that!

I've been chasing the same noise, crackling noise at slow speed. mostly after car been siting for a while.
Replaced all control arms, shocks and everything around it.. pretty much whole new suspension.. didnt do a dam thing. Noise was still there..
I was about to tear everything apart and replace CV axles...

Red your post and went to my garage to check it out. No need to lift the car. You can see the bolt while laying next to drivers side door. Put 18mm wrench and thought I got a wrong wrench, it was that loose! Used two wrenches trick to extend and have more leverage. Couldn't fit a socket, because plastic under tray get's just a little in the way.
Passenger side bolt was tight.

NO NOISE!!!

So instead of throwing thousands of $$ , grab a 18mm wrench and go check those two bolts on the back of subframe! takes 10 min max!




edit > link to original post, with the picture
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=94
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      04-03-2022, 06:28 PM   #131
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What a great tip!! My 35d is silent at the moment with 140,000 km but it'll be something I check next oil change. Thank you!!
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      05-02-2022, 03:46 PM   #132
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I want to share my experience replacing BMW X5 2015 front lower control arms due to creaking as it could be helpful to others.

The car is a 2015 BMW X5 xDrive 3.5i with 80k miles on it. A squeaking noise started coming from the front suspension area about 6 months ago. It would vary based on temperature, weather, or what I had for breakfast. Sometimes really noisy and distracting - other times subtle. But it always came back. The squeaking/creaking noise didn’t really happen going over big bumps or above 25mph. We would most often hear it when going 2-15mph on relatively flat road.

The noise first seemed to come from the front left - but over time it seemed to coming from both sides.

If I opened a door and pulled up and down on the outside edge of the door to make the car go up and down - it would also hear the noise.

I had read where the hydraulic bushings could be helped by spraying atp’s AT-250 re-seal on them. Which I tried and it only helped a little - then not at all. I also read here where the subframe to frame bolts could be loose. I checked those and they were tight.

Took the car to a local independent shop and they reported “found every lower control arm failed”. Estimate was $2,071 ( 2x$450=LowerRearward + 2x$300=Lower Forward parts plus $571 labor) plus another $250 for front end alignment. They priced out Lemford arms.

I’ve done the arms on my other 2011 X5 - so decided to DIY. It’s take the wheel off and 3 nuts … right? :-)

Since we were hearing the noise from the left side primarily - and we are so cheap - I bought a $70 left side Delphi arm from Amazon. Jacked up left side of car - placed in jack stand to be careful - removed wheel - and broke loose the two bolt/nuts and the nut on the ball joint. Wasn’t too bad. Used the 1-1/16th socket on the ball joint nut.
To remove the two bolts - it is a little difficult as there is tension on the arm. The springs are pulling up as the wheel hub’s weight is pulling down.

TIP #1: Use another jack to lift the wheel hub to relieve the pressure on the bolt so they can more easily slip out without damaging threads.

TIP #2: The bolts are similar but not the same. Keep track of which is which. The nut with nylon insert goes on the inboard/arm to subframe.

As others have said - getting the ball joint out was not easy. I loosened the ball joint nut so as to protect the threads and hit it with a hammer. Then I hit it with a bigger hammer. Then I sprayed PB-Blaster, let it soak.
I then decided to use the 6mm hex socket in the end of the ball joint threaded stud to break loose the ball joint. With break bar on it - I proceeded to break my hex socket. Sprayed more PB Blaster.

Since I had the little 1” long 6mm hex bit just sitting there - I thought it would be better to hammer on it than anything else. Kind of like hitting a nail and let the energy get focused into the ball joint. So - breaking the hex socket actually gave me something to hit. Also - because the wheel is just a few inches off the ground - there isn’t a lot of room from a big back swing.

More hammering with my biggest sledge- but nothing. More PB-Blaster. Light taps on the aluminum knuckle just for the sake of it. If I had the car higher - or on a lift - I could have likely applied more force.

I started to look at pickle forks and ball joint pullers to help. I had a ball joint puller from Harbor Freight - but it was too small not not for this application. I was very close to getting the pickle fork wedges when I hammered some more and … it eventually came out.

TIP #3: Keep hammering.

Installed new arm. As I was working by myself I found it difficult to get the holes lined up for the bolts. Too much tension between knuckle and strut. If I hade another set of hands - that would have helped. What worked for me was to install the ball joint loosely, then install the middle bolt (to the strut) and then. …

TIP #4: Use another jack to lift at the middle joint to align the inboard bolt.

Once all bolts are in and hand tightened - I torqued the ball joint nut. The other two should by tightened at ride height.

TIP #5: Use a jack placed at the middle bolt (where strut attaches to arm) and jack up until the car almost raises off main jack/jack-stands. That’s ride height.

Then torque. Put everything back together and went for a test drive. And … the noise was diminished but still there and clearly coming from the right side only.

Ordered the right side Delphi arm from Amazon and 2 days later installed that.

TIP #6: If you know you are replacing the ball joint - spray them liberally with PB-Blaster in the days leading up to the work.

I still had to whack the ball joint more times than I liked too - but it was about 1/3 as many as the left side - I think because I pretreated it.

Right side is same as left side, except the geometry of the half-shaft causes it to hit the strut arm. This was problematic during assembly and I read on here where people turned the wheels and that worked. So I turned the wheel so tires were pointed about 15 degrees to the left - and it made getting bolts back in much easier. So…

TIP #7: If things are not lining up - turn the wheels and see if that helps.

After reassembly of the right side - went for a ride and NO NOISE!!!!

It’s been over a week and a few hundred miles and still NO creaking noise. Not sure if Delphi arms will last forever or just 10k miles. But I’ll know next time what to do.

Good luck.
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