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      12-21-2015, 11:00 AM   #1
Bigb348
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JL Audio dual powered 8" sub

I'm thinking about adding a sub to the f15. I like this setup from JL, it fits across second row seat with 3" on both sides, and only protrudes about 6". I have done any audio to any of my cars in quite some time, so I would appreciate any help in how I would wire this up to Harmon Kardon, as well as power from battery, and remote. Thanks in advanced
Brian
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Last edited by Bigb348; 12-21-2015 at 11:43 AM..
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      12-21-2015, 06:49 PM   #2
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That's the setup I have... It's powered by a JL Audio XD 300/1. The output is spectacular without knocking the doors off. I had it professionally installed for $250. After the install, I checked things out and it's actually quite an easy install as the battery is in the rear and the access to the wires for the HK amp are right in the back as well. Probably took them 90 minutes to do the whole thing.

I see you PM'd me, but I thought I'd share this as it may help others. Looking at the install, it seems they tapped the purple and yellow wires from the HK amp (no idea what speakers they lead to, however). I installed a line driver to improve the signal from the stock amp as it was a bit low (cost $100). Additionally, they used a fuse tap, which runs across the spare tire well where the batteries are held, to act as a a power on source. The setup is clean and easily accessible.
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      12-21-2015, 09:03 PM   #3
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Thanks for the pics. If you could also post pics of the sub setup you have and how you secured it from moving and a pic of the battery fused lead to amp it would be appreciated. I think I may attempt the install myself thanks to your pics.

How does it compliment with the bavsound ghost subs? I plan on popping my ghosts in the next couple of days.
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      12-22-2015, 01:54 AM   #4
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Nice. That box already has the amp built in. I think I might get the single 12" box. Should be a simple install. I'll have to measure and see if it would fit in storage compartment, but putting it there might cause a lot of cancellation with the lid shut?
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      12-22-2015, 11:14 AM   #5
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I'm out of town now so can't post anymore pics as the X5 is at home. Basically, I have the sub laying across the back cargo area behind the second row seats. It's a beast and doesn't move at all. As Crackerjack15 says, you can get this setup with the amplifier built in. However, I went with separate components because you can always upgrade one or the other for future use and the only thing that is exposed is the speaker wire. If you get the sub with the built in amp you will see the exposed ground and power cables which are quite large in diameter.

Pretty sure this sub won't fit in the spare wheel well storage compartment, it's larger then it looks. I think you will also lose some thump if you did place a sub there.

Hooking up to the battery is a snap as it's located under the back cargo area. There's something like 8 screws that need to be removed and the plastic trim lifts off of the battery..... Oh... and it sounds awesome with the BAV Sound ghost woofers...
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      12-22-2015, 11:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jugdish View Post
I'm out of town now so can't post anymore pics as the X5 is at home. Basically, I have the sub laying across the back cargo area behind the second row seats. It's a beast and doesn't move at all. As Crackerjack15 says, you can get this setup with the amplifier built in. However, I went with separate components because you can always upgrade one or the other for future use and the only thing that is exposed is the speaker wire. If you get the sub with the built in amp you will see the exposed ground and power cables which are quite large in diameter.

Pretty sure this sub won't fit in the spare wheel well storage compartment, it's larger then it looks. I think you will also lose some thump if you did place a sub there.

Hooking up to the battery is a snap as it's located under the back cargo area. There's something like 8 screws that need to be removed and the plastic trim lifts off of the battery..... Oh... and it sounds awesome with the BAV Sound ghost woofers...
Thanks for the reply. I'm going with the powered box as shown above w 2-8's. I'm adding a line converter like you did in your
setup. Can't wait to hear it w the bavsound ghosts.
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      01-02-2016, 07:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigb348 View Post
Thanks for the pics. If you could also post pics of the sub setup you have and how you secured it from moving and a pic of the battery fused lead to amp it would be appreciated. I think I may attempt the install myself thanks to your pics.

How does it compliment with the bavsound ghost subs? I plan on popping my ghosts in the next couple of days.
bump, could you please take a picture of the remote turn on wire as well as the power wire to the battery?

Thanks,

Paul
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      01-02-2016, 09:46 PM   #8
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looks like this maybe a viable option as the remote turn on source:

http://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...13&postcount=2
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      01-03-2016, 12:41 PM   #9
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here are some close up pics of the connections. The fuse panel is behind the rear passenger side cover. I used a fuse tap to tap the fuse that controls the exterior mirrors as I know that feature only works when the ignition is on. The last pic shows the specific wires that were tapped for the subwoofer input.

My cargo area is full and I don't have time to dismantle the area to show the connections to the battery. However, it's the easiest of all the connections: Red power cable to the red terminal and you can either ground to the negative terminal on the battery, or scrape some paint of an area in the back and ground to a bolt in the rear.
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      01-03-2016, 06:32 PM   #10
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Thanks Jugdish for the pictures, helped out tremendously!
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      01-03-2016, 06:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastlambo99 View Post
Thanks Jugdish for the pictures, helped out tremendously!
+1 much appreciated
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      08-30-2017, 09:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jugdish View Post
here are some close up pics of the connections. The fuse panel is behind the rear passenger side cover. I used a fuse tap to tap the fuse that controls the exterior mirrors as I know that feature only works when the ignition is on. The last pic shows the specific wires that were tapped for the subwoofer input.

My cargo area is full and I don't have time to dismantle the area to show the connections to the battery. However, it's the easiest of all the connections: Red power cable to the red terminal and you can either ground to the negative terminal on the battery, or scrape some paint of an area in the back and ground to a bolt in the rear.
I've used the purple/yellow wires in your picture. could you please let me know which is Neg/Positive. Is red stripe Positive and brown stripe Negative? I just want to make sure they aren't out of phase going to my LOC(AudioControl LC2i).

Thanks

Last edited by fromkrypton; 08-30-2017 at 09:59 AM..
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      08-28-2019, 02:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMarine View Post
Being that everything is conveniently in the rear, this was one of the easiest amp and sub installs that I've ever done. The problem that I'm running into is that the bass keeps getting cut when even slightly turned up, as if ASD is effecting it. The bigger problem is, I can't find the ASD module anywhere in my truck. I've torn the entire hatch area apart in search of the module and can't find it, but something is definitely actively cutting the bass. Has anyone else run into this and found a workaround?

F15 xDrive50i
Pretty much every car does this so people won't blow the stock speakers. This device adds the bass back in at high volumes.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc2i/
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      09-13-2019, 06:54 PM   #14
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If anyone is interested I found the OEM subwoofer wires and tapped into those rather than the rear speakers. I initially tapped into the wires shown above which are the rear speakers but wasn't getting the bass response that I should have been getting, which sent me into troubleshooting mode. It appears that the rear speakers are filtered from either the head unit or the amp. Either way, you will not get the proper low frequencies for a subwoofer from the rear speaker taps. In order to do that, tap into the subwoofer wires and you'll notice a night and day difference. Hope this helps someone.

Left Sub: Thick Black and Red, Black and Brown
Right Sub: Thick Blue and Brown, Blue and Red
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      10-28-2019, 08:06 PM   #15
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This post was very helpful. I successfully connected all the components in 30 minutes but couldn’t leave it due to an airport run. I’ll get back to it Saturday and tuck everything away, nice and clean.
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      10-27-2020, 04:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMarine View Post
If anyone is interested I found the OEM subwoofer wires and tapped into those rather than the rear speakers. I initially tapped into the wires shown above which are the rear speakers but wasn't getting the bass response that I should have been getting, which sent me into troubleshooting mode. It appears that the rear speakers are filtered from either the head unit or the amp. Either way, you will not get the proper low frequencies for a subwoofer from the rear speaker taps. In order to do that, tap into the subwoofer wires and you'll notice a night and day difference. Hope this helps someone.

Left Sub: Thick Black and Red, Black and Brown
Right Sub: Thick Blue and Brown, Blue and Red
Where exactly are these wires located? Thanks!
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      10-27-2020, 07:55 PM   #17
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left side of the trunk, open the panel n ull see the oem amp and those wires inside.
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      10-29-2020, 11:27 AM   #18
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left side of the trunk, open the panel n ull see the oem amp and those wires inside.
Thanks! Realized it the next day haha.
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      12-07-2022, 12:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMarine View Post
If anyone is interested I found the OEM subwoofer wires and tapped into those rather than the rear speakers. I initially tapped into the wires shown above which are the rear speakers but wasn't getting the bass response that I should have been getting, which sent me into troubleshooting mode. It appears that the rear speakers are filtered from either the head unit or the amp. Either way, you will not get the proper low frequencies for a subwoofer from the rear speaker taps. In order to do that, tap into the subwoofer wires and you'll notice a night and day difference. Hope this helps someone.

Left Sub: Thick Black and Red, Black and Brown
Right Sub: Thick Blue and Brown, Blue and Red
Folks, sorry to bump up an old thread, but do you need to connect to both subs? I’m installing an 8” sub in my F15, is it not just a case of connecting to 1 of the exiting pair of wires as shown above rather than both?

Am I better just to tap into the wires and leave the factory subs running, or cut them and just use the aftermarket sub? On my previous A6 Allroad I removed the factory sub and tapped into its connection, meaning the aftermarket sub was the only 1 working.
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