Here is the battery replacement SIB for ALL F15 X5

[CanadianLurker]

So, did they upgrade the factory standard battery at some point for a given model year in order to avoid this issue? Or is this still in place regardless of model year?

[EngineerBill]

Thanks.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by BDO

Guys, sorry for being too lazy to RTFM... where are the battery posts for trickle charging positioned?

With the same frame of mind...I'm not going to download a 2016 X6 owners manual to find out...but I do have a pic of a 2016 X6 35i engine bay...and there's a 99% chance that the position of the jump start terminals are in the same location...if not...they'll probably be real close.

The positive terminal is under the red cap...and the negative terminal is usually a hex bolt (sometimes its a straight pin about the thickness of a pencil). See the two locations circled in the pic below.

If you pop your hood open and it looks nothing like this...and you still can't figure it out by looking around the engine bay for something that looks similar (but could possibly be in a slightly different location)...then its time to open your owners manual.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

With the same frame of mind...I'm not going to download a 2016 X6 owners manual to find out...but I do have a pic of a 2016 X6 35i engine bay...and there's a 99% chance that the position of the jump start terminals are in the same location...if not...they'll probably be real close.

The positive terminal is under the red cap...and the negative terminal is usually a hex bolt (sometimes its a straight pin about the thickness of a pencil). See the two locations circled in the pic below.

If you pop your hood open and it looks nothing like this...and you still can't figure it out by looking around the engine bay for something that looks similar (but could possibly be in a slightly different location)...then its time to open your owners manual.

3 months and someone finally answers him. A real gentleman.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

3 months and someone finally answers him. A real gentleman.

[EdgyE36]

FYI, here's the latest SIB. Provided to me during the debate I had with dealer about giving us a new battery in the 2016 CPO we purchased.


F15 is off the list for every other oil change battery replacement.

[scootr]

Taking my 2018 diesel in for battery problem related to low power no cranking issues in cold weather. We will see what they say.

[triax37]

Since Qsilver7 posted the image above, I thought I would relay a question and recent battery story:

Question: What do you all think about using the engine terminals to test the battery?

Story: I accidentally left my radio on overnight in early December, which drained the battery down and the car would not start. After jumping it, I drove to O'Reilly Auto Parts, where they "tested" the battery using the terminals in QSilver7's image. Their tester said one or more cells were damaged, and it needed replacement. Seeking a 2nd opinion, I went to Autozone and they attached their tester directly to the battery (cargo area), saying that the engine terminals will give false readings. When they did this, the tester said the battery is fine. Since then, I've used a voltmeter to directly test the battery (cargo area), and it reliably reads 12.73-12.74. Below is a link to how I tested the battery and alternator:

https://itstillruns.com/symptoms-dea...y-7362764.html

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by triax37

Since Qsilver7 posted the image above, I thought I would relay a question and recent battery story:

Question: What do you all think about using the engine terminals to test the battery?

Story: I accidentally left my radio on overnight in early December, which drained the battery down and the car would not start. After jumping it, I drove to O'Reilly Auto Parts, where they "tested" the battery using the terminals in QSilver7's image. Their tester said one or more cells were damaged, and it needed replacement. Seeking a 2nd opinion, I went to Autozone and they attached their tester directly to the battery (cargo area), saying that the engine terminals will give false readings. When they did this, the tester said the battery is fine. Since then, I've used a voltmeter to directly test the battery (cargo area), and it reliably reads 12.73-12.74. Below is a link to how I tested the battery and alternator:

https://itstillruns.com/symptoms-dea...y-7362764.html

Do you have the 2 battery system? if you do, if you haven't disconnected both batteries from the system, then it is still connected to the auxiliary battery and your "test" may be false if the two batteries are still connected.

If only testing one battery...I can't think of a reason it can't be done directly to the battery's terminals...but ONLY if it is disconnected from the system. (I'm willing to be educated if I'm wrong...but don't just say I'm wrong...tell/explain why. )

And if any charge/charging is going to be done, then it does need to be done at the engine bay terminals so that the IBS (intelligent batttery sensor) is kept "in-the-loop". See the green highlighted text below.

[MK2018]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Do you have the 2 battery system? if you do, if you haven't disconnected both batteries from the system, then it is still connected to the auxiliary battery and your "test" may be false if the two batteries are still connected.

If only testing one battery...I can't think of a reason it can't be done directly to the battery's terminals...but ONLY if it is disconnected from the system. (I'm willing to be educated if I'm wrong...but don't just say I'm wrong...tell/explain why. )

And if any charge/charging is going to be done, then it does need to be done at the engine bay terminals so that the IBS (intelligent batttery sensor) is kept "in-the-loop". See the green highlighted text below.

That's good info

I'm happy I have my trickle charger installed permanently in my X5 by dealer and don't have to worry when I have it parked for long period of time

[ComasF15]

I have to say, it shouldn't be this hard. My car says 12.5 at the charging terminals. Sigh.......

[scootr]

Originally Posted by ComasF15

I have to say, it shouldn't be this hard. My car says 12.5 at the charging terminals. Sigh.......

My battery was reading 12.34 Not starting without a maintainer on it overnight (13.4v) and the dealer replaced it today.... This is a d model with 2 batteries.
Dealer said computer gave no indication of external draw or lights/radio left on. Just battery failure.
They replaced 105 ah battery
Car is only 2 yrs old with low miles.

[triax37]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Do you have the 2 battery system? if you do, if you haven't disconnected both batteries from the system, then it is still connected to the auxiliary battery and your "test" may be false if the two batteries are still connected.

If only testing one battery...I can't think of a reason it can't be done directly to the battery's terminals...but ONLY if it is disconnected from the system. (I'm willing to be educated if I'm wrong...but don't just say I'm wrong...tell/explain why. )

And if any charge/charging is going to be done, then it does need to be done at the engine bay terminals so that the IBS (intelligent batttery sensor) is kept "in-the-loop". See the green highlighted text below.

Great info - thanks! I do have two batteries - that would explain why the readings at the engine terminals would confuse the battery tester. On your second point, I'm also curious if I need to disconnect the battery to actually test it. Given the programming, computers, etc, is it ok to actually disconnect the battery at home? I have INPA, but not ISTA+ or any of the other systems used to code a battery.

For the record, I am not a diesel - the aux battery is apparently used for my rear seat heaters (and maybe AC?). Given the $250 aux battery cost, not including any labor/coding, I wish I only had one battery! Let my kid(s) freeze! It builds character!!!

Re: trickle charge, I do this at the battery terminals - good to confirm that is correct.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Step1: Accept the engineer who designed the charging system for the X5 is an absolute Idiot...all of this hassle for 1 percent boost in mpg

Step2: Purchase a cigarette lighter voltmeter.

Step3: Drive around and notice how your voltage is crazy low when just cruising and the alternator only activates when braking/coasting. This is by design...have to boost mpg by 1 percent...who cares if it costs you a new battery every year?

Step4: Turn on your headlights and fog lights, watch as your voltage jumps to normal levels, turning on your headlights and fogs overrides the BS charging scheme and forces the alternator to stay on, charging your battery in the process (possibly adding performance too, higher voltage to the coils equals stronger spark which would make a difference at high boost levels....take note M drivers)

Step5: Be amazed that your battery is no longer drained on short trips....Yes with the E70 and F15's, you drive with your lights on to charge your battery....Every manufacturer has people who have risen through the ranks by nepotism as their idiocy would have removed them long without it...guess which division they work at in BMW...

[scootr]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Step1: Accept the engineer who designed the charging system for the X5 is an absolute Idiot...all of this hassle for 1 percent boost in mpg

Step2: Purchase a cigarette lighter voltmeter.

Step3: Drive around and notice how your voltage is crazy low when just cruising and the alternator only activates when braking/coasting. This is by design...have to boost mpg by 1 percent...who cares if it costs you a new battery every year?

Step4: Turn on your headlights and fog lights, watch as your voltage jumps to normal levels, turning on your headlights and fogs overrides the BS charging scheme and forces the alternator to stay on, charging your battery in the process (possibly adding performance too, higher voltage to the coils equals stronger spark which would make a difference at high boost levels....take note M drivers)

Step5: Be amazed that your battery is no longer drained on short trips....Yes with the E70 and F15's, you drive with your lights on to charge your battery....Every manufacturer has people who have risen through the ranks by nepotism as their idiocy would have removed them long without it...guess which division they work at in BMW...

Interesting ! Having just had the battery replaced at 8k miles I'm interested in keeping this one healthier longer. Is there a way to see the voltage through the iDrive while driving?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by scootr

Interesting ! Having just had the battery replaced at 8k miles I'm interested in keeping this one healthier longer. Is there no way to see the voltage through the iDrive while driving?

Not that I know of, If you have a OB2 wireless adapter you can do it in free apps like torque. Otherwise this is a nice option: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Cigar...9267714&sr=8-4

If you have a really Keen sense of hearing, put your fan to almost it's highest setting....notice how it blows a little harder and sounds a little louder when you brake/coast or when you turn on your lights? That's the boost in voltage from the alternator activating.

[ComasF15]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Step4: Turn on your headlights and fog lights, watch as your voltage jumps to normal levels, turning on your headlights and fogs overrides the BS charging scheme and forces the alternator to stay on, charging your battery in the process (possibly adding performance too, higher voltage to the coils equals stronger spark which would make a difference at high boost levels....take note M drivers)

Agree.

I wonder if fogs only would work too? I'd hate to shorten the life of $4000 xenon headlights to save a $300 battery.

[CatalinP]

4000$ xenons, what a joke...

[alphaod]

The bulbs are like $100 for two of them.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ComasF15

Agree.

I wonder if fogs only would work too? I'd hate to shorten the life of $4000 xenon headlights to save a $300 battery.

I have mine torn apart as I am doing a full carbon cleanup and porting and polishing the heads so I can't test right now, but you know what would be interesting is if BMW programmed it for any high-drain accessory to activate the alternator... Like the rear heated seats???

If someone with a voltmeter could test. If that works that would be a great work around. Apologies in advance to all kids/family members that ride in the back during summer

[CatalinP]

If in doubt about how any car system works, one can always refer to newtis.info.
Otherwise, of course can also read on the forum about how expensive the xenon bulbs are...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by CatalinP

If in doubt about how any car system works, one can always refer to newtis.info.
Otherwise, of course can also read on the forum about how expensive the xenon bulbs are...

I got curious and looked up the price, looks like the OE bulbs are now only 184 each and if you go aftermarket, you can get Phillips for 50 each. Rebuild kits for the servo motors are available too for around 60 dollars so it appears the prices for the bulbs have fallen drastically in the past year unless I am missing something.