Transmission Oil Change

[Yuille36]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Try Northwest BMW or ECS, they show they have it:

https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/BMW...007855263.html

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...f/24007855263/

Wow....thank you so very much, this is exactly what I was looking for.
I just placed my order with ECS Tuning

[yulian]

Hello! So, answer is after 75K miles gearbox oil change is a must. I got it, but which oil is better? There is quite expensive BMW "original" fluid, and ZF which 2 times cheaper. I'm asking because here in Kyiv you can buy used working gearbox for 2K USD and change yours broken one for another 200$). And just oil change takes up to 800 USD just for materials and no one guarantee that this will help.

[///MCollection]

The ZF lifeguard 8 is the oil to use, no need to buy bmw. Problem is if you buy a used gearbox and the previous owner never did the oil it could be worse than the one it replaces.

[Yuille36]

I used BMW tranny fluids, it wasn't that expensive if you search for it online.

[Blue By You]

Just got my trans serviced by my 30Y BMW-only performance shop. Including use of the diagnostic to monitor trans temp to achieve proper fluid level. Among all of the other parts (mechatronix sleeve, gasket, fasteners, seal/plug), my indy used 6 liters of ZF fluid. Total pricing for the job was $1,032 including all parts and labor. Just an FYI for those people curious about method, pricing, number of liters etc.

[MikeM6]

Has anyone used ATF other than BMW ATF 3+ or ZF Lifeguard 8? Possibly Redline D6 ATF or the Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1800? Lifeguard 8 is on back order everywhere I've checked.

[Viper501]

Originally Posted by MikeM6

Has anyone used ATF other than BMW ATF 3+ or ZF Lifeguard 8? Possibly Redline D6 ATF or the Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1800? Lifeguard 8 is on back order everywhere I've checked.

I used a Liqui Moly product that I got from FCP Euro ( I think that’s right ). No problems whatsoever so far.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by MikeM6

Has anyone used ATF other than BMW ATF 3+ or ZF Lifeguard 8? Possibly Redline D6 ATF or the Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1800? Lifeguard 8 is on back order everywhere I've checked.

I've been using LM Top Tec 1800 instead of Lifeguard 8 in a previous gen E70 ZF8HP70 without issue for past 20k miles. A bit over 181k miles on the truck now and the transmission is flogged and beaten daily as I am surrounded by Tesla's and Chargers that love to pick fights (they can't handle it when they are not the first car across the intersection). Also running stage 3 xhp tune on the transmission which is not making it's life any easier. Did not notice any difference going to toptec other then does not smell as much like cat piss as lifeguard so chances are high that you might not have to sleep out on couch after changing the oil.

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I've been using LM Top Tec 1800 instead of Lifeguard 8 in a previous gen E70 ZF8HP70 without issue for past 20k miles. A bit over 181k miles on the truck now and the transmission is flogged and beaten daily as I am surrounded by Tesla's and Chargers that love to pick fights (they can't handle it when they are not the first car across the intersection). Also running stage 3 xhp tune on the transmission which is not making it's life any easier. Did not notice any difference going to toptec other then does not smell as much like cat piss as lifeguard so chances are high that you might not have to sleep out on couch after changing the oil.

Wouldn't the XHP tune actually help the transmission with shorter shifts?

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Blue By You

Wouldn't the XHP tune actually help the transmission with shorter shifts?

That is true on newer transmissions. Shorter tighter shifts equals less slipping on the clutch packs and less wear. However on a 10 year old 181K ZF8HP, the shifts are so brutal I think I am going to go back to stage 2, it isn't good for the transmission and engine to have such a brutal harsh engagement. This isn't so much of an issue on the Zf8HP75 in the F85 vs the ZF8HP70 in the E70 as they updated the mechatronics on the 75 so stage 3 on the F85 is much more civilized then previous gen.

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

That is true on newer transmissions. Shorter tighter shifts equals less slipping on the clutch packs and less wear. However on a 10 year old 181K ZF8HP, the shifts are so brutal I think I am going to go back to stage 2, it isn't good for the transmission and engine to have such a brutal harsh engagement. This isn't so much of an issue on the Zf8HP75 in the F85 vs the ZF8HP70 in the E70 as they updated the mechatronics on the 75 so stage 3 on the F85 is much more civilized then previous gen.

Gotcha thanks

[rok2774]

just did my tranny service using the FCP euro kit at 88K miles. old fluid looked decently clean.... the cold+warm fill up procedure took about 5L total. I used the liqui moly fluid... car seems to be running well post-service.

[Yuille36]

As it should be

[MikeM6]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

2 - Add oil until it spills out the fill hole (usually around 3 - 4 liters), start engine and rev to 2K for 30 seconds in park, shift to reverse and idle for 30 seconds, then D for 30 seconds, then 1st for 30 seconds, then 2nd for 30 seconds, put back in park and leave engine running and quickly run back under and stuff another liter or so in until it starts to trickle out the fill hole. Transmission temp needs to between 86 to 122f so you must be fast if its already warm out.

During the fill procedure, when changing between P-R-D-1-2, do the wheels need to be free to rotate, or can the vehicle be on the wheels with your foot on the brake? Based on your post about using drive up ramps, I think they don't need to rotate, but wanted to confirm. Haven't seen this detail mentioned.

From TIS: To set the correct level, it is mandatory that the service function "Transmission control unit: oil adjustment" is performed using the diagnosis system.

Is this essentially the steps you outlined? I haven't hooked up ISTA to see if I can find this procedure yet. Thanks.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by MikeM6

During the fill procedure, when changing between P-R-D-1-2, do the wheels need to be free to rotate, or can the vehicle be on the wheels with your foot on the brake? Based on your post about using drive up ramps, I think they don't need to rotate, but wanted to confirm. Haven't seen this detail mentioned.

From TIS: To set the correct level, it is mandatory that the service function "Transmission control unit: oil adjustment" is performed using the diagnosis system.

Is this essentially the steps you outlined? I haven't hooked up ISTA to see if I can find this procedure yet. Thanks.

According to ZF, it is acceptable to not have the wheels move during the procedure.

I remember reaching out to ZF about the oil adjustment and according to them at the time this was only if there was mechatronic work/transmission repair work done. That was some time ago though, I will reach out to them again to make sure nothing has changed.

BTW, I am now at 183k miles on the original ZF8HP in my E70 still pushing 3.6 second 0-60 times despite loading XHP on it and beating the living piss out of it every chance I get. Its amazing what you can get out of these transmissions with proper maintenance.

[fitzwerks]

Everything seemed to go by the book, but when I went to start the car with the initial amount of trans fluid in order to shift through the gears before adding more, the car will not start. It displays,

"Functionality or display of the gear selector position may malfunction. Gearbox position P may not be available. Set parking brake when completely stopped. Engine start may be possible with a delay. It is also possible to engage a gear without depressing the brake pedal."

Nothing works. No gear is indicated. car will not start.

Please help. Thoughts?

ps - pan is perfectly level and fluid streamed out of fill port after only 2.5L, is it possible more fluid was needed to be forced in the initial fill prior to starting car?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by fitzwerks

Everything seemed to go by the book, but when I went to start the car with the initial amount of trans fluid in order to shift through the gears before adding more, the car will not start. It displays,

"Functionality or display of the gear selector position may malfunction. Gearbox position P may not be available. Set parking brake when completely stopped. Engine start may be possible with a delay. It is also possible to engage a gear without depressing the brake pedal."

Nothing works. No gear is indicated. car will not start.

Please help. Thoughts?

ps - pan is perfectly level and fluid streamed out of fill port after only 2.5L, is it possible more fluid was needed to be forced in the initial fill prior to starting car?

Attachment 3147886

Attachment 3147887

That thing just got dry started. It's supposed to take at least approx. 4.5L on the first fill before you start it and do the final fill.

Have a read through this thread. On the last page, it has some good youtube vids on how to do the job.

https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9#post29977269

[1004ron]

Originally Posted by NikNala

You don't need to get a pan just the right kit.

#3 in the diagram
https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...007855263.html

BMW part number 24007855263

I was wondering if I needed a replacement pan seeing as I can't see any leaks.

This answered my question but when I added my vehicle it said it doesn't fit my VIN - 2015 X5 xdrive35i

The listed part for my VIN is BMW 24118612901 Transmission Oil Pan With Filter Repair Kit

Looking at FCP Euro it comes up with the below for my X5, which looks like the trans filter is integral to the pan - BMW GA8HP45Z GA8HP70Z Automatic Transmission Service Kit - ZF 24118612901KT

Apologies if my questions have been covered - I've tried searching, and have info overload.

We just got this 2015 X5 yesterday as a replacement for my wife's 2015 Mustang that she totaled this past weekend, and I'd like to get all fluids changed starting this weekend, and gathering all info and tips.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by 1004ron

I was wondering if I needed a replacement pan seeing as I can't see any leaks.

This answered my question but when I added my vehicle it said it doesn't fit my VIN - 2015 X5 xdrive35i

The listed part for my VIN is BMW 24118612901 Transmission Oil Pan With Filter Repair Kit

Looking at FCP Euro it comes up with the below for my X5, which looks like the trans filter is integral to the pan - BMW GA8HP45Z GA8HP70Z Automatic Transmission Service Kit - ZF 24118612901KT

Apologies if my questions have been covered - I've tried searching, and have info overload.

We just got this 2015 X5 yesterday as a replacement for my wife's 2015 Mustang that she totaled this past weekend, and I'd like to get all fluids changed starting this weekend, and gathering all info and tips.

Welcome to the forum and hope you are enjoying your new toy.

First things, first. This is the ///M sub and not been rude, but it does not matter how many ///M stickers you slap on a 35i. It is not a ///M.

You would prob have more luck in replies in the F15 sub.
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=507


That FCP kit is correct for the 35i. The non ///M filter and pan are integrated into a single plastic piece. On the ///M's, the pan and filter are separate.

[M5 Jed]

Here’s something interesting to add to this knowledge base. I just did the service, followed the exact fill procedure.

I drained 4.37 liters, used the same ZFL8 bottles to measure. However, I was able to pump back in a total of 5.35 liters. Transmission worked flawlessly before the service. Seems to work just fine after the service. Dealer did service the transmission previously. Not sure why I was able to pump in more than I drained. Zero leaks whatsoever underneath.

[Yoyo1980]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

BMW Lifetime oil = Marekting BS

ZF themselves recommends themselves will tell you lifetime is a lie if you email them and 60 to 80K at the latest in performance vehicles like the F85

Another member above posted the actual PDF from ZF, follow it to the T. The previous owner of my X5 didn't and under-filled the transmission, not a problem with it until I was coming down from the mountains the got a Drivetrain error and the transmission shifted into neutral. Not a good time trying to find a place to pull over on a twisty downhill 3 mile stretch of mountain road and not overheat the brakes on a 5300lb vehicle that is stuck in neutral. The transmission lost oil pressure from the combination from the steep decline and being under-filled with oil.

Most people don't know that you must complete the fill procedure after you have revved the engine to 2000rpm for 30 seconds in P & N and then let idle for 30 seconds in R, D, 1 & 2 AND then leave in Park with engine running while you top it off while your under it with a 400 degree pipe next to you and its leaking oil in your face...Fun stuff but hey it saves BMW 5 dollars on a 120,000 dollar vehicle not to put in a dipstick and thus the "lifetime" lie....

Below is the cliff notes version on doing it:

The procedure to refill is:

1 - Car must be completely level (double check your drain plug on new pan and make sure it is tight, 8nm if memory serves, its printed on the oil pan)

2 - Add oil until it spills out the fill hole (usually around 3 - 4 liters), start engine and rev to 2K for 30 seconds in park, shift to reverse and idle for 30 seconds, then D for 30 seconds, then 1st for 30 seconds, then 2nd for 30 seconds, put back in park and leave engine running and quickly run back under and stuff another liter or so in until it starts to trickle out the fill hole. Transmission temp needs to between 86 to 122f so you must be fast if its already warm out.

3 - Total fill will be 4 to 4.5 liters give or take a little depending on the temp with the standard plastic oil pan. If you put in any less then 4 you are in danger of the transmission losing pressure on steep declines which will give you a drivetrain error and force you into neutral.

PROTIP: Pickup a cheap welding blanket from harbor freight to wrap your exhaust in next to the fill port to keep your flesh on your arms...

PROTIP 2 - Loosening the valve body (dont remove, just loosen) allows nearly 2 more quarts to drain from the transmission for around 6.5 total, allowing for a more complete oil change (total oil capacity is approx 9 liters, 3 which cannot be reached as it is in Torque converter and transmission cooler/lines). If anyone cares to do this let me know and I will scan in the page from the rebuild manual on the valve body tighting torque and sequence.

Hey,
Would you mind letting me know the torque and sequence for the valve body.
Thanks.