BMS Catch Can Install

[REVELDE_89]

Hey Sophisticated Redneck, everyone else too, what do you guys think of this dudes setup venting the catch cans to atmosphere? Would this even work?

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by REVELDE_89

Hey Sophisticated Redneck, everyone else too, what do you guys think of this dudes setup venting the catch cans to atmosphere? Would this even work?

I vent to the atmosphere from my oil cap vent… I also have two catch cans… it’s good either way!!

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by REVELDE_89

Hey Sophisticated Redneck, everyone else too, what do you guys think of this dudes setup venting the catch cans to atmosphere? Would this even work?

Message Panda6 , see how the setup is working out.

If you vent to atmosphere, you wont be pulling a vacuum on the internals. Having a bit of a vacuum is beneficial to non at all. That's what that flapper valve inside the hose does, it's opens when the turbo's are spooling at pulling vacuum, but prevents blow back.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by REVELDE_89

Hey Sophisticated Redneck, everyone else too, what do you guys think of this dudes setup venting the catch cans to atmosphere? Would this even work?

For the S63TU used in the F85 (and N63TU used in the F15) the vent to atmosphere works ok (previous gen it would not due to lower intake CCV connections). The only drawbacks are the smell and as Chilled mentioned, you will never pull a vacuum in the crankcase which has the benefits of better ring sealing and slight bump in hp unless you add another check valve in the vent filter.

An alternative is to use exhaust evac tubes and route the CCV gases through it instead of just venting to atmosphere. You have the benefits of not smelling the CC gases in the cabin as well it will be burnt in the exhaust and the evac tubes can pull 5-6 inches of vacuum at full throttle. This will pull more vacuum then the turbo inlets and will effectively route all of the CCV gases out the exhaust at full throttle. There is also a mild HP bump from zero CCV gases being injected into the inlets and drastically lowers the changes of LSPI. Installing exhaust evac tubes is not easy however and requires dropping the exhaust and welding them in.

I have been testing a few different methods to install the exhaust evac tubes without dropping the exhaust/welding to make it an easy to install kit anyone who can operate a drill can do. Will eventually come out with the weld-less CCV exhaust evac kit as well as complete catch-can setup worthy of being bolted on to an M (All-AN fittings, hidden screws, etc).

Some early rough Prototype pics below with universal base, the F85/86 version will have specific base for best location & ease of install and be anodized in various colors and with or without the M logo. Have a couple of other projects I have to get out first though but will be releasing it this summer.

[tfunk88]

Man, if you make a setup for the F15 50i I’ll definitely pick one up before too long!

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by REVELDE_89

Hey Sophisticated Redneck, everyone else too, what do you guys think of this dudes setup venting the catch cans to atmosphere? Would this even work?

Im attempting this tomorrow (vent to air) Will update

[mstgeer]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

For the S63TU used in the F85 (and N63TU used in the F15) the vent to atmosphere works ok (previous gen it would not due to lower intake CCV connections). The only drawbacks are the smell and as Chilled mentioned, you will never pull a vacuum in the crankcase which has the benefits of better ring sealing and slight bump in hp unless you add another check valve in the vent filter.

An alternative is to use exhaust evac tubes and route the CCV gases through it instead of just venting to atmosphere. You have the benefits of not smelling the CC gases in the cabin as well it will be burnt in the exhaust and the evac tubes can pull 5-6 inches of vacuum at full throttle. This will pull more vacuum then the turbo inlets and will effectively route all of the CCV gases out the exhaust at full throttle. There is also a mild HP bump from zero CCV gases being injected into the inlets and drastically lowers the changes of LSPI. Installing exhaust evac tubes is not easy however and requires dropping the exhaust and welding them in.

I have been testing a few different methods to install the exhaust evac tubes without dropping the exhaust/welding to make it an easy to install kit anyone who can operate a drill can do. Will eventually come out with the weld-less CCV exhaust evac kit as well as complete catch-can setup worthy of being bolted on to an M (All-AN fittings, hidden screws, etc).

Some early rough Prototype pics below with universal base, the F85/86 version will have specific base for best location & ease of install and be anodized in various colors and with or [...]

Count me in for the setup when you have completed and released for sale.

[Trion_f85]

I installed my catch cans yesterday vent to atmosphere with AN-10 fittings & hose
I also used a plastic cap (1inch I.D) to close the connection to the air intake system.

So far what i can say about this setup is:

Much better throttle response
Lower oil temperatures
Better sounding and deeper exhaust sound
And hence i feel the engine is breathing much better

Also i dont have any rough idle or check engine light or smoke from exhaust

Find pictures attached:

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

I installed my catch cans yesterday vent to atmosphere with AN-10 fittings & hose
I also used a plastic cap (1inch I.D) to close the connection to the air intake system.

So far what i can say about this setup is:

Much better throttle response
Lower oil temperatures
Better sounding and deeper exhaust sound
And hence i feel the engine is breathing much better

Also i dont have any rough idle or check engine light or smoke from exhaust

Find pictures attached:

Simple clean, nice.

Why did you choose to keep the flapper valve tho? If your venting out, isn't kinda redundant.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Simple clean, nice.

Why did you choose to keep the flapper valve tho? If your venting out, isn't kinda redundant.

To prevent back flow of air from catch can system into crankcase during idle, deceleration. It also has a leak hole which is useful so i dont want to use just any non-return valve.

During idle and deceleration, the engine gets rid of blow-by gasses directly into the intake manifold through holes in the cylinder head. So a bit of vacuum is needed in the engine during these times and hence the flapper valve will serve its purpose.

[REVELDE_89]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

I installed my catch cans yesterday vent to atmosphere with AN-10 fittings & hose
I also used a plastic cap (1inch I.D) to close the connection to the air intake system.

So far what i can say about this setup is:

Much better throttle response
Lower oil temperatures
Better sounding and deeper exhaust sound
And hence i feel the engine is breathing much better

Also i dont have any rough idle or check engine light or smoke from exhaust

Find pictures attached:

Are you getting any exhaust odors inside the car venting to atmosphere? With windows down or windows up with a/c on high?

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by REVELDE_89

Are you getting any exhaust odors inside the car venting to atmosphere? With windows down or windows up with a/c on high?

No smell whatsoever in the cabin, not from the catch can or from my catless downpipe setup.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

No smell whatsoever in the cabin, not from the catch can or from my catless downpipe setup.

Mate, don't want to alarm you, but you may wish to have yourself checked for the spicy 19 flue.

If you are running catless, those most definitely reek if you have the windows down and are stopped or parked up..

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Mate, don't want to alarm you, but you may wish to have yourself checked for the spicy 19 flue.

If you are running catless, those most definitely reek if you have the windows down and are stopped or parked up..

Lol fully vaccinated 💪🏼, But on the hand maybe we all have different tolerances, as for me i dont smell anything in the cabin. Are you also running catless DP?

[Chilled]

Not on this thing, I have in the past and the smell when you stop at the lights or are just idling in the garage is awful.

[mstgeer]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

For the S63TU used in the F85 (and N63TU used in the F15) the vent to atmosphere works ok (previous gen it would not due to lower intake CCV connections). The only drawbacks are the smell and as Chilled mentioned, you will never pull a vacuum in the crankcase which has the benefits of better ring sealing and slight bump in hp unless you add another check valve in the vent filter.

An alternative is to use exhaust evac tubes and route the CCV gases through it instead of just venting to atmosphere. You have the benefits of not smelling the CC gases in the cabin as well it will be burnt in the exhaust and the evac tubes can pull 5-6 inches of vacuum at full throttle. This will pull more vacuum then the turbo inlets and will effectively route all of the CCV gases out the exhaust at full throttle. There is also a mild HP bump from zero CCV gases being injected into the inlets and drastically lowers the changes of LSPI. Installing exhaust evac tubes is not easy however and requires dropping the exhaust and welding them in.

I have been testing a few different methods to install the exhaust evac tubes without dropping the exhaust/welding to make it an easy to install kit anyone who can operate a drill can do. Will eventually come out with the weld-less CCV exhaust evac kit as well as complete catch-can setup worthy of being bolted on to an M (All-AN fittings, hidden screws, etc).

Some early rough Prototype pics below with universal base, the F85/86 version will have specific base for best location & ease of install and be anodized in various colors and with or [...]

ETA on your custom kit for sale?

[mstgeer]

Originally Posted by mstgeer

ETA on your custom kit for sale?

Sophisticated Redneck
Any update on your catch can setup?

[BulsaraF36]

Sophisticated Redneck I'm interested to buy one as well.

Thanks!

[Chilled]

Does anyone know what part of the PCV hoes fails that leads to it leaking oil? Replacing my turbo intakes that cracked and I've noticed that my bank 5-8 hose has allot of oil coming out of it and on the flapper valve inside. Banks 1-4 flapper valve is dry/no oil. I replaced banks 1-4 about 3k mile ago, as it was seeping oil where the hose bolted to the valve cover.

Just wondering what part of this hose fails that leads to it putting more oil into the intake. Does the hose have a filter or screen in it somewhere? Or is it the o-ring that seals the hose to the separator unit inside the valve cover?

[Trion_f85]

The hose itself is just a normal passage of filtered blow-by gasses from the stock oil seperator inside the valve cover to the intake to be burnt, but the hose has a built-in non-return valve inside which opens and closes based on vacuum

1. it could fail at the o-ring like you mention. the o-ring can shrink allowing leakage outside
2. or the hose can crack due to heat because its made of plastic
3. the non return valve inside the hose gets stuck either open or close (when i replaced mine it was stuck open) the results of this can vary

[Trion_f85]

But the efficiency of the system is questionable as it allows some oil to pass into the intake


During Boost/Open throttle



During Ilde/Close throttle

[Chilled]

Yeh, Maybe it's the o-ring, I did check the tube, and it looks solid. No oil was on it externally. The mess the previous failure created. It was all around the fitting. This fitting does not have any residue on the outside of the valve cover fitting, its bone dry.

I only noticed that there was an issue with that hose, after I removed the cracked boot hose and found allot more oil in it than on the other side. Looked inside the hose and boom, full of oil.

The camera is not picking up the wetness that well.


The other side, the colour is lighter(due to less oil exposure), but its also dry.


There is also an oil stain on the compressor housing on the side of the PCV connector the intake boot.


I think it maybe possible to bypass the separator unit, without removing it. I looked inside whilst I was doing the PCV hose and It looks like that o-ring seals the vent pipe to the separator unit. Insuring that only the air/pressure that went through the separator unit makes its way into the intake.



So maybe an adapter that simply does not go in but bolts to the valve cover and lets all air/pressure out would be a good solution. Thoughts??