DIY - Transfer Case Service

[Clifton]

The following DIY is intended to be a supplement to the many other great threads which helped guide me in the right direction before performing the TC service. Hopefully it will add some additional clarity and context for those sitting on the fence wondering if they should tackle the job.

All in all, the TC service is very straight forward and the following method does not require the removal of any under body panels or crossmembers. It's a snug work space, but unless you have sausage fingers, removing the drain bolt is your main obstacle. Please feel free to add, correct or share other tips-n-tricks.

SAFE HARBOR STATMENT: I am a guy on the internet, not a BMW tech. This is not an official BMW procedure and you should use these steps at your own risk.

Patient: BMW 2017 X5d w/33K miles

Summary of service:
1. Remove fill plug
2. Siphon used oil
3. Refill fresh gear oil
4. Install new fill plug
5. Run VTG Calibration

Difficulty: 3 wrenches out of 10 (oil change = 3 wrenches)

Time: 1 - 1.5 Hrs (add time if drinking beer or you are anal)

Tools:
* 14MM Hex bolt
* Fluid extractor - Click for example
* Fluid pump - Click for example
* Oil catch pan
* Portable articulating shop light
* Shop towels

Optional Helpful Tools:
* HD Jack / Lift
* Tire blocks / ramps / jack stands
* Differential, Transfer Case, Transmission Oil-Pan Wrench - Bavarian Autosport Mfg#: B8800025
* Foxwell NT530 or Scan tool

Parts List:
* Differential Oil Drain Plug - Mfg# 33117525064
* Transfer Case Fluid TF 0870B - 1 Liter - Mfg# 83222409710

Step 1: - Picture #1
I put the X5d on blocks to allow for an additional 4" of clearance. This isn't a must, but it gives you more room to work. The approximate location to start is near the driver's door.

Step 2: - Picture #2
Locate the TC which sits behind the transmission and in front of the gloss black crossmember.

Step 3: - Picture #3
Find the drain plug and use 14mm hex tool to break it loose to the point where you can take over with fingers. With bolt removed, I used my finger in the fill hole to guide/feed the plastic siphon tube straight to the bottom of the TC. You may feel interference with the TC internals so continue to reposition tube until you've hit bottom.

Step 4: - Picture #4
Siphon the old oil in to the catch pan. This may require repositioning the plastic tube several times; I yielded a little more fluid each pull doing this. There is surprisingly very little oil to collect and the volume is almost on par with changing the oil in a lawn mower.

Step 5:
Once you feel satisfied with extraction, pump fresh oil in slowly directly from the Liter bottle and keep tabs on how much it takes. In my case, 575ML or roughly 1/2 a bottle plus. TC Capacity is stated to be 600-700ML.

Step 6:
Oil will trickle out of the fill hole once it is full. Let the trickle slow to a drip and close up the fill hole with a new plug. They are single use, so throw away the old one. Tighten the plug with a good snug pull since a torque wrench won't fit.

Step 7:
Clean up any excess oil and spills with shop towels. This will let you check for any fresh oil drips should there be a leak.

Step 8: - Picture #6
**OPTIONAL - Hook up scan tool and perform a VTG Calibration. I used a Foxwell NT530 and was pleased to find the feature under the Service menu. You will hear a zip and brrrrrr noise from under the X5, but the process takes less than 5 seconds to complete. Make note of the new value and the delta of the old for your service records; makes you look legit. The new calibration shouldn't be a huge difference.

Step 9:
Test drive vehicle and with windows down drive in a few tight circles (cul-de-sacs help) and listen for unusual sounds. Park it and check for leaks.

Step 10:
Admire your work, enjoy the satisfaction of the DIY, and go spend the $700-$1K savings on something fun.

Lessons Learned:
1. Definitely an DIY job and difficulty drops to a 2 after you've done it once
2. 33K miles may have been early for a fluid change (see photo #5)
3. A candy cane shaped siphon would have reduced the hunt and seek siphon method
4. A ratcheting/14mm Hex combo (homemade) would have saved time threading drain bolt
5. VTG Calibration triggered ABS and Parking brake errors. Clearing codes followed by test drive and then another VTG calibration resolved codes.
6. BMW's Transfer Case oil is very specific - check and double check you have the right bottle for your vehicle

[atwal187]

Thanks for the write up . Planning on doing this soon 👍🏻

[M302_imola]

This is such perfect timing! I need to do this very soon. I have to say the process of downloading ISTA+ software has really stalled me on this project. I've heard it's a pain in the butt. Was the Foxwell NT530 very straight forward on the recalibration? From the pics, it's look so. Did you purchase the Foxwell NT530 off amazon? Any issues getting deep enough in the TC to suck out all the old fluid?

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

Was the Foxwell NT530 very straight forward on the recalibration? From the pics, it's look so. Did you purchase the Foxwell NT530 off amazon? Any issues getting deep enough in the TC to suck out all the old fluid?

The NT530 navigation takes some getting use to, but once you figure it out, it is fairly straight forward. It has lots of features that more than pay for the $160 cost. Example: Battery registration, Transfer case adaptation, read/clear codes, diesel fuel filter purge etc. It's nice to have a hand held unit that's ready to go vs. a laptop you need to configure and fight with.

DO NOT BUY Foxwell from Amazon - My understanding is that you will not be able to get support nor the lifetime upgrades from Foxwell. Buy it straight from Foxwell. I've already updated mine to the latest software right out of the box and I added another car make which open up another realm of features for that car.

The tube that I used was a little thick, but ridged enough for me bend it without pinching it to allow siphoning. As others have shared, I think a 8" brake line bent into a candy cane would help get that little bit that I missed ~25-100 ML.

Good Luck!

[crystalworks]

I'm about to do this after I replace the door handle carrier on my E53 X5 and get it out of the garage. Thank you for the write up. Much appreciated.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by stocktree

For what it's worth, I've changed my fluid, and never did any recalibration. Never had an issue. And I'm at 130k miles.

Good to know but did you upgrade wheels and tires? I upgraded from OEM 19's to 22's so I'm thinking a recalibration is in order.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

Good to know but did you upgrade wheels and tires? I upgraded from OEM 19's to 22's so I'm thinking a recalibration is in order.

Agree with your thinking here. I just replaced my original tires with a fresh set of same size Pirellis. Mine rig was "stuttering" prior to the service, so I figured it was worth doing with fresh rubber and clean oil.

Can't argue either way if calibration is required (probably not), but if you have to the scan tool to perform it, why not.

[The Libertine]

Brilliant DIY. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and information to complete!

[JamesInSJ]

Anybody done this with an alternative to the 14mm special tool? Wondering if my 14mm 3/8 bit has enough length to put it in and fit a 14mm wrench in between and turn it? Other possibility is putting a hex adapter on the back of the socket and turning that with an open end wrench. All cases...looks like the space is very tight.


Wish the shipping on this wasn't as much as the tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Genius-Tools-...780407&sr=8-21

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by JamesInSJ

Anybody done this with an alternative to the 14mm special tool? Wondering if my 14mm 3/8 bit has enough length to put it in and fit a 14mm wrench in between and turn it? Other possibility is putting a hex adapter on the back of the socket and turning that with an open end wrench. All cases...looks like the space is very tight.


Wish the shipping on this wasn't as much as the tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Genius-Tools-...780407&sr=8-21

The tool I used was $16 so it was the simplest, cheapest option that worked out of the box. PRO: It will also work on the front an rear diffs too! CON: Due to space restrictions it was a hassle to not have it ratchet. Unless you opt to remove the cross brace the space is very tight as you surmised.

I think you are on the right track with alternative tool options, just keep the total depth of the hex close to 1.5 inches. I just measured the 14mm hex portion and it is ~1.5". Another critical factor to be aware of is that is that handle of the wrench needs to be angled " \ " not straight. The trans case interferes if your wrench is completely straight " | ".

Good luck!!

[JamesInSJ]

Originally Posted by Clifton

The tool I used was $16 so it was the simplest, cheapest option that worked out of the box. PRO: It will also work on the front an rear diffs too! CON: Due to space restrictions it was a hassle to not have it ratchet. Unless you opt to remove the cross brace the space is very tight as you surmised.

I think you are on the right track with alternative tool options, just keep the total depth of the hex close to 1.5 inches. I just measured the 14mm hex portion and it is ~1.5". Another critical factor to be aware of is that is that handle of the wrench needs to be angled " \ " not straight. The trans case interferes if your wrench is completely straight " | ".

Good luck!!

As long as I can get this 14mm socket up in there, looks like this will work great.

Start with open end 14mm, hex is fully inserted with 1-2mm to spare. Break it loose. Then insert the 14mm hex through the 14mm ratcheting end (still 80-90% of the way in), and back the bolt out until you can just use your fingers to remove it.

[scotty339]

The OAL of that 14mm 1/2 socket looks too long to me to be able to fit.
Its a tight space. Also, you'll need to bend the wrench or you won't have the clearance required.

I used this tool -
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ug_wrench.html

[tlow98]

Just get a big 14mm allen and cut about an inch off. Super easy and cheap too is the result.

[crystalworks]

I bought one of these a few years ago. Works great, though Amazon does show it as unavailable currently.



https://www.ctatools.com/index.php?r...roduct_id=1598

[ixlr8]

Thanks for the write up. That old oil looks nasty compared to the new for only 33K miles. I have 51K miles on mine and this makes me think I should be changing it sooner rather than later.

[M302_imola]

Anyone had any luck w/ the recalibration using a scan tool other than the Foxwell NT530? My good buddy has a Zurich ZR11, and I was wondering if it had the option of recal? I guess I could plug it up and see before I go out and purchase the Foxwell NT530.

[ixlr8]

I was also wondering if "BimmerLink" could do the recalibration. Time to do some investigating.

[dirtjb18]

Clifton Did you use OEM BMW fluid? Searching the part no. you provided I am finding two options at substantially different price points...

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/FB-83222409710
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/83220397244

Thnx!

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by dirtjb18

Clifton Did you use OEM BMW fluid?

Yeah, I ordered from ECS Tuning. Tried to order from BMW online dealers and they said it could not be shipped due to "hazard material" warning.

[JamesInSJ]

Buy original or S-Tec, which is Shell and apparently makes the fluid for BMW.

[Xstar]

Redline specs their 75W GL-4 for BMW F15 transfer case fluid.

[Andy_Kay]

Thanks for this DIY guide. I'm planning on doing mine soon. I'm stuck on sourcing a syringe for extracting the old oil.
I was thinking about the flexible clear plastic pipe that comes with most of those oil extractor syringe things - how about wrapping it with some wire to hold it in shape - so it can stay in that candy cane shape. I think I'll give that a go and report back