Paint Correction - stage 1

[johnhol]

So anyone who knows about machine polishing, it's not a quick job.

So today was "hood day".

Washed, clay barred - just the hood.

Then medium abrasive polish on a light cut pad with my PC DA.

2 passes over each area (8 sections across the hood).

Followed up with a nice Natty Blue Wax - left to sit for 15 minutes before buffing.

Picture and a couple of vids in the link below.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/88bmeXCGZtgVhAdT6

Hood is definitely the biggest area to do, so the front fenders and front doors are next, maybe next weekend.....maybe tomorrow

[P1]

All that lovely polishing, and then you top it with Natty Blue? I had a pot of that in my very first detailing order I ever placed, must be a good ten years ago. I think that wax lasts two days. Do yourself a favor and get a nice sealant. You'll thank me!

[johnhol]

Originally Posted by P1et

All that lovely polishing, and then you top it with Natty Blue? I had a pot of that in my very first detailing order I ever placed, must be a good ten years ago. I think that wax lasts two days. Do yourself a favor and get a nice sealant. You'll thank me!

Always liked poor boys natty blue. Though I'll look into other options...thanks

[johnhol]

Wolfgang sealant 3 being delivered tomorrow 😁

Seems I'm too old school.....let's see what this turns out like.

Will be doing the fender and front doors tomorrow so will finish it off with the sealant.

[Duke I]

Try Jescar Powerlock sealant topped with Colonite 845 someday. Great combo, easy to apply and lasts.

Good luck with the black! Ton of work.

[johnhol]

Originally Posted by Duke I

Try Jescar Powerlock sealant topped with Colonite 845 someday. Great combo, easy to apply and lasts.

Good luck with the black! Ton of work.

Thanks, yeah it will be a lot of work. But once you get it done....easy to keep it look great. I just need to keep it out of the car wash and threaten the dealers if they offer a "free car wash"....lol

[bmwx1sq]

When I first got my x5, it wasn't in the best shape paint wise. Being imperial blue in the north.

I started with a heavy cut with a wool pad, to a orange pad medium cut, and to a polish and yellow pad. I was afraid to do the whole car with the heavy cut without a gauge so I only did the worst areas.

Now since HD one has came out, I use HD one with an orange pad, HD speed with an orange pad, and Hd Poxy with a white pad.

I have been more then happy with the HD product line. That combo has last about 3 months so far. When I have a warmer day I ll do the speed and Poxy again.

[P1]

Originally Posted by Duke I

Try Jescar Powerlock sealant topped with Colonite 845 someday. Great combo, easy to apply and lasts.

Good luck with the black! Ton of work.

I have thousands (literally) of wax lying around and I only use Power Lock.

[Duke I]

Originally Posted by P1et

I have thousands (literally) of wax lying around and I only use Power Lock.

Same here, it is so great. So glad I found it. Try topping with the 845 sometime.-- similarly easy to use -- extends the life, enhances the slickness. D

[P1]

Originally Posted by Duke I

Same here, it is so great. So glad I found it. Try topping with the 845 sometime.-- similarly easy to use -- extends the life, enhances the slickness. D

I have 845, and it's not as easy to apply and remove as Power Lock. You have to go REALLY thin on the 845. The Power Lock is a bit more forgiving.

[spierce]

Originally Posted by P1et

I have 845, and it's not as easy to apply and remove as Power Lock. You have to go REALLY thin on the 845. The Power Lock is a bit more forgiving.

I am a bit new to this process. Usually was just wash/wax. However, I see there are a ton of products out there for this stuff, compound, sealants, liquid wax, cream wax, spray wax...etc

Could somebody break down what is needed from start to finish and what products to use when?

Sounds like wash, clay bar, then what pads/compounds?

I need an idiots guide to detailing a black car. First one I've owned.

[P1]

Originally Posted by spierce

I am a bit new to this process. Usually was just wash/wax. However, I see there are a ton of products out there for this stuff, compound, sealants, liquid wax, cream wax, spray wax...etc

Could somebody break down what is needed from start to finish and what products to use when?

Sounds like wash, clay bar, then what pads/compounds?

I need an idiots guide to detailing a black car. First one I've owned.

I have two machines: a Porter Cable and a Flex DA.

My pads are all Detailer's Domain pads. My polishes are all Menzerna. Sealants, I use Power Lock. My waxes are mostly high-end Swissvax.

Spray wax is Optimum Instant Detailer.

[spierce]

Originally Posted by P1et

I have two machines: a Porter Cable and a Flex DA.

My pads are all Detailer's Domain pads. My polishes are all Menzerna. Sealants, I use Power Lock. My waxes are mostly high-end Swissvax.

Spray wax is Optimum Instant Detailer.

Do you put wax on after the sealer? Why do you need the spray?

[leo95se]

all menzerna polishes here too. johnhol you may want to add one more step.. sorry! medium to a polish is too harsh, i prefer to go to a fine polish after medium because it truly removes swirls. rule of thumb is always work your way down from whereever you started. sometimes you can use a softer pad instead of a different polish, play by ear to see how the paint responds.

this is my process:
1. wash with dawn or dish detergent to cut wax off
2. clay bar with soapy water
3. depending on damage, start with menzerna SI 1500 (I may even go with a fine cut polish if its rough)
4. menzerna SF4000
5. p21s paint sealant (acts as a super fine polish)
6. wolfgang 3.0 sealant (you can stop here, the wax is purely for depth at this point)
7. p21 pure wax (ive found it to be best bang for the buck)

[P1]

Originally Posted by spierce

Do you put wax on after the sealer? Why do you need the spray?

Once I put down a sealant or wax, that’s my last step. I only use a quick detailer after I have washed/dried my X5.

[originalgoods13]

Been lazy lately and been using the FG400 on purple wool pad combination. It is quite dangerous for a novice user especially on corners and ridges of the X5 but can produce great results if used correctly.

It does produce some hazing which can be corrected mostly with SF4500 on black foam pad.

Been using Menzerna Power Lock for 5 years now and I just finished a bottle and that was $32 for 5 years (I did use Einszett 1Z Glanz wax when I have the time)...

I laugh at people spending hundreds on "ceramic" coating...

[SCA]

Originally Posted by Duke I

Try Jescar Powerlock sealant topped with Colonite 845 someday. Great combo, easy to apply and lasts.

Good luck with the black! Ton of work.

Another vote for Jescar Powerlock Sealant which was formerly.. https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-...with-pictures/


All my products these days consistent of Gyeon. Amazing products with outstanding results as well as durability. If needed I have a Rupes Mark II Bigfoot 21 and PC to tackle issues, swirls and marring which both are totally avoidable with proper handwashing. A foam cannon certainly helps as well...

[P1]

Originally Posted by originalgoods13

Been lazy lately and been using the FG400 on purple wool pad combination. It is quite dangerous for a novice user especially on corners and ridges of the X5 but can produce great results if used correctly.

It does produce some hazing which can be corrected mostly with SF4500 on black foam pad.

Been using Menzerna Power Lock for 5 years now and I just finished a bottle and that was $32 for 5 years (I did use Einszett 1Z Glanz wax when I have the time)...

I laugh at people spending hundreds on "ceramic" coating...

Wow, wool pad eh. That's aggressive.

[johnhol]

Originally Posted by leo95se

all menzerna polishes here too. johnhol you may want to add one more step.. sorry! medium to a polish is too harsh, i prefer to go to a fine polish after medium because it truly removes swirls. rule of thumb is always work your way down from wherever you started. sometimes you can use a softer pad instead of a different polish, play by ear to see how the paint responds.

this is my process:
1. wash with dawn or dish detergent to cut wax off
2. clay bar with soapy water
3. depending on damage, start with menzerna SI 1500 (I may even go with a fine cut polish if its rough)
4. menzerna SF4000
5. p21s paint sealant (acts as a super fine polish)
6. wolfgang 3.0 sealant (you can stop here, the wax is purely for depth at this point)
7. p21 pure wax (ive found it to be best bang for the buck)

Thanks leo95se

It's a medium/light compound, but with the clear coat on a BMW (and most german cars being so hard, light/fine never gets the level of correction I needed.

I know if you don't break in down enough you'll get marring but thankfully in the cooler temps at the moment, the "play" time with the polish is longer so corrects well, and then gives a nice finish.

I'll be doing the front half of the CB on Saturday (unless the wife has plans), so I'll try and get some more 50/50 shots/videos.

Also I've got my sealant as well so I'll see how that compares to the wax option.

[johnhol]

Originally Posted by spierce

I am a bit new to this process. Usually was just wash/wax. However, I see there are a ton of products out there for this stuff, compound, sealants, liquid wax, cream wax, spray wax...etc

Could somebody break down what is needed from start to finish and what products to use when?

Sounds like wash, clay bar, then what pads/compounds?

I need an idiots guide to detailing a black car. First one I've owned.

spierce

Ideally, you want to wash your car (have 2 buckets with grit guards and some clean wash mitts - 3 would be good....one for hood and roof, one for top half of the doors and rear, one for bottom half of the doors.)

One bucket with soapy water, one bucket with clean water....

Once you gone over a small area with the soapy mitt, dunk and rinse in clean water, back into soapy...and so on.

I will caveat the above by saying I foam lance with Chemical Guys snow foam, leave to sit for 10 minutes then power wash off, then repeat. But that's just me

Then I dry with 2-3 drying towels.

spierce At this point you have 2 options....

Machine Polish or normal polish

You can get hand polish that is ok, if the paint looks good then machine polishing might be excessive....especially if you don't own one already.

I'd take a look at detailingworld.co.uk as they have videos and guides on what to do...

I've always used wax, but after a comment above....I felt old so went and bought some sealant.....so I've reserve comment on waxes vs sealants...

[Localbrew]

So do I need to clay bar the car if I'm going to use a polish with yellow pad on a buffer?

Next week I plan to wash the car, dry it with my air blower to get most of the water off, then dry with my new waffle microfiber towels.
I was planning on doing the yellow pad polish next, followed by the white or black pad with PowerLock.

Does that sound ok or do I need a clay step in there?

[Russmov]

Originally Posted by Localbrew

So do I need to clay bar the car if I'm going to use a polish with yellow pad on a buffer?

Next week I plan to wash the car, dry it with my air blower to get most of the water off, then dry with my new waffle microfiber towels.
I was planning on doing the yellow pad polish next, followed by the white or black pad with PowerLock.

Does that sound ok or do I need a clay step in there?

If you are planning the paint correction anyway, you may as well clay bar too. Clay bar is just a mechanical decontamination to pull anything left on your paint.