[Coconut]

There's a few options for getting more noise out of your stock exhaust.

1. FREE, put it in Sport Plus mode then pull the exhaust valve fuse. No way of closing the valves. Cold starts can be fairly loud.

2. Cost of Bimmerlink, code in SPORTY mode which open the exhaust fully. Only works with ID7, not ID8.

2. $260 Dinan Exhaust Valve Control kit. Allows remote control of your valves, can be programmed to your homelink buttons. Uncertain if the module remembers the last setting, which allows you to startup the car with the valves open. Requires additional wiring for tapping into the 12V supply. Not too keen on being the exact same $100 kit on Aliexpress, just rebranded as Dinan.

3. $520 dAHLer Exhaust Valve Control Module. Allows remote control of your valves, can be programmed to your homelink buttons and it remembers your last setting so you can startup the car with the valves open. True plug and play install. It takes power directly from the OEM exhaust valve plug. Pricey but IMO the most elegant solution with the least wiring and built in Germany with actual R&D and quality standards.

You can mount the control module either in the car or outside since the enclosure is water and heat resistant. I choose to mount it in the trunk. I jacked up the rear passenger side so I could fit underneath. There is a perfect spot on the right side of the battery where you can mount the unit and it's next to a rubber grommet leading outside. I removed all the 10mm bolts holding the black plastic underbody panel next to the right exhaust tip and exhaust valve. I cut an "X" into the round rubber grommet and fished the control modules connectors through it. I used butyl tape on the grommet to create a water/air tight seal. Simply disconnect the stock valve connector, plug it into the harness and plug the new connector into the valve. Zip tie here and there to tidy up the wires. I used a bit of black wire loom and 3M Super 33+ electrical tape for some extra abrasion protection and to make it look OEM.

I didn’t used the included 2 button remote. Instead I found a larger round remote and stuck it on top of a low profile cupholder ashtray. I originally programmed the rear view mirror homelink buttons to control the valves but it just felt odd reaching up to do so plus you have to hold it down a bit longer to get it to activate . I like how the cupholder solution is within easy reach.

[MPR]

Definitely a nice & clean solution, just wish it was a little cheaper. Thanks for posting this

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for posting

[Coconut]

Decided to mount the module higher up after noticing the wireless RF remote doesn’t always work. I took off the passenger side carpeted trunk panel and found a nice spot above the fusebox. No issues with the remote now.

Passenger side carpeted trunk panels removed.


Repositioned module on top of the fusebox frame.

[AWcoupe]

Wow major props for tackling this project. I run the other way when it comes to anything electrical. Just that exposed fuse panel makes me break out in a cold sweat. I’d manage to short out the whole car or burn it to the ground.
These are the first photos I’ve seen of the exposed battery in a G42. My 2015 had a hinged panel that lifted up to expose the battery. Not the case in the 42. Does that trunk panel just pry up? I was just looking at it and didn’t see an obvious way to open it.
Great pics always accompany your posts.

[Coconut]

^Thanks ��

Yes, the trunk panel just lifts up however it is nearly impossible to grab it with your hands since the fitment is so tight. I had to use a screwdriver to wedge into the side to pry it up.

[danallxt]

ya mean yours didn't come with this?

kidding...just took some strap webbing, glued to back to make a lift loop.

[AWcoupe]

Originally Posted by danallxt

ya mean yours didn't come with this?

kidding...just took some strap webbing, glued to back to make a lift loop.

Nicely done.

[Vudumonkey25]

Did mine today. I went with your original location. I pretty much plan to leave it wide open except the occasional long trips with the wife. That plastic plug was annoying. I popped it out, Drill the center to cable size. Used a razor to slice it 4-6 times at different angles so it could spread open enough for the Dahler plugs to squeeze through.

I took 2 quick pictures. The trunk shot was before i cleaned it all up and the other shot it how easy the wires come through that hole.

I tucked the wires in with zip ties and loosened the bolt on the heat shield above the valve and wedge a corner of zip tie in there before tightening it back up to keep the cable off the exhaust.

It for sure made the system louder. I need to take some videos. That extra bit of valve opening fully gave me what felt like a few more pops, bangs and burbles. Cold start was absolutely amplified like very loud.

I think you would need to jack or use a ramp if you want to get the dahler unit under the car but by putting it in the trunk you can easier do it on your back in the driveway.

[nickmaguire]

For around $225 USD there's also the SST controller which seems like it does everything the Dahler does (including the exhaust valve position memory) for much less cost. Built in Germany, seems to be well regarded in the Audi community.

https://www.sst-spezialsteuergeraete...j-ab-2021.html

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by nickmaguire

For around $225 USD there's also the SST controller which seems like it does everything the Dahler does (including the exhaust valve position memory) for much less cost. Built in Germany, seems to be well regarded in the Audi community.

https://www.sst-spezialsteuergeraete...j-ab-2021.html

We offer both, SST is the most popular option.

[TJZ67201]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

We offer both, SST is the most popular option.

Thanks for sharing! Just ordered the SST from your site. Any idea how long these are taking to ship?

[luis.morales5]

Thanks for tips and ideas.
Super easy to install ran it through battery well in trunk and zip tied to stock wires. I used a little aviation heat resistance tape to cover wires.
i used some dollar tree velcro tape and attached where I liked it to open and close valve next to pedal tuner.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by luis.morales5

Thanks for tips and ideas.
Super easy to install ran it through battery well in trunk and zip tied to stock wires. I used a little aviation heat resistance tape to cover wires.
i used some dollar tree velcro tape and attached where I liked it to open and close valve next to pedal tuner.

[330iToy]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

We offer both, SST is the most popular option.

Mike do they work with the Dinan exhaust system? Does the SST have a model that works with the 2 valve Dinan exhaust? I am interested in a controller. I have a 21 G20 M340i.

These are some excellent examples! Thank you everyone for the great information and DIY’s.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by 330iToy

Mike do they work with the Dinan exhaust system? Does the SST have a model that works with the 2 valve Dinan exhaust? I am interested in a controller. I have a 21 G20 M340i.

These are some excellent examples! Thank you everyone for the great information and DIY’s.

SST and Dahler have confirmed that their products are compatible with any exhaust system that uses the stock valves.

I can't guarantee that the controllers will work with exhaust systems that do not reuse the stock valves, but I don't see a reason why they wouldn't.