Tony's upgraded driveshaft installed on a 17' 50i

[Djhumvee]

Installed the upgraded driveshaft from Tony tonight. I couldn't slip the new one in without removing the u-joint on the front differential end of the shaft. If the exhaust/downpipe was off I would have had way more room. This was on a f15 though, maybe the f85 has a little more clearance, the exhaust may be more out of the way on the f85? Anyway here's the videos, first time making a video so it probably sucks lol. Also I tried just taking 1 video but every time my screen shut off it wouldn't let me continue recording I had to start a new video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COXecFMkvAM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj5kcMrx0vY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrkMOhTp_Wo

[Djhumvee]

I talked to Tony and watched his install video, it does appear it will slip in without taking the u joint apart, but I tried it several times just like he did in the video and for whatever reason I could not for the life of me get it to go in like that.

[Djhumvee]

So I talked to Tony a little more, he thinks that the motor mounts could be worn out causing the motor to sit lower, which would give less clearance for the shaft to slip in-between the metal bracket and differential.

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Fellas sorry been crazy busy with work and our newborn, yes i had two customers with motor mounts shot, solution to that is super easy, 2x4 and a floor jack at the oil pan, lift the motor up about 1” and that would give you ample room to slide the shaft in ! I have a major list of f85/f15/e70 owners off Facebook but will be coming on here soon to offer upgraded shaft to this forum members as well

[shimmy23]

thank you OP for sharing. posts like these really help the community whether you think your video sucks or not 😉

[Djhumvee]

Originally Posted by shimmy23

thank you OP for sharing. posts like these really help the community whether you think your video sucks or not 😉

Thanks man, I appreciate that!

[CryptoHeff]

Thanks for these posts and videos mate.

I've had the shaft to install for a while now and been getting frustrated with my mechanic being too busy to do it. Gave it a shot today with a mechanic friend and have the exact same issue on a right hand drive F85 - thought it might have been a LHD vs RHD issue. Literally was under the car for hours trying.

I can install the factory shaft just as per Tony's video - simple and one-handed. But replacement was getting stuck on the exhaust/sub-frame with two of us trying for ages. And during this process so much of the black paint has been scraped off with it hitting different parts of that bloody subframe.

Contemplating next steps but will look into Tony's suggestion now re: engine mounts/jack.

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by CryptoHeff

Thanks for these posts and videos mate.

I've had the shaft to install for a while now and been getting frustrated with my mechanic being too busy to do it. Gave it a shot today with a mechanic friend and have the exact same issue on a right hand drive F85 - thought it might have been a LHD vs RHD issue. Literally was under the car for hours trying.

I can install the factory shaft just as per Tony's video - simple and one-handed. But replacement was getting stuck on the exhaust/sub-frame with two of us trying for ages. And during this process so much of the black paint has been scraped off with it hitting different parts of that bloody subframe.

Contemplating next steps but will look into Tony's suggestion now re: engine mounts/jack.

Engine mounts are 2 piece units, top part should stand about 3/4” away from the bottom. I recommend lifting the motor up , it is very easy to do. Also in the videos above rubber boot stays on tcase, I recommend putting it onto the new shaft before installing, that way you can see the splines. And of the don’t forget synthetic nlgi2 grease on the splines. That should be the ticket

[CryptoHeff]

Thanks for all your help Tony. Will keep you posted.

[pachieh]

Is it NGLI2 grease or anti-seize on the splines? Tony’s video says anti-seize. I don’t even know where to get NGLI2 grease…

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by pachieh

Is it NGLI2 grease or anti-seize on the splines? Tony’s video says anti-seize. I don’t even know where to get NGLI2 grease…

Driveline shop that builds shafts recommended nlgi2, many greases out there have this specification, Google will help. They said it lasts longer, factory used antiseize. I dont know how to add a correction to youtube video unfortunately, but will figure it out

[pachieh]

Found a few on Amazon, will assume any of them will work.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3640-Dr...1046152&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Purpo...1046152&sr=8-8

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by pachieh

Found a few on Amazon, will assume any of them will work.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3640-Dr...1046152&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Purpo...1046152&sr=8-8

Correct!

[CryptoHeff]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

Engine mounts are 2 piece units, top part should stand about 3/4” away from the bottom. I recommend lifting the motor up , it is very easy to do. Also in the videos above rubber boot stays on tcase, I recommend putting it onto the new shaft before installing, that way you can see the splines. And of the don’t forget synthetic nlgi2 grease on the splines. That should be the ticket

Engine mounts look good to me. No leaks and about the right size.

Jacking up the engine from the sump with a piece of would actually lifted pretty much the whole of the front car, so no real play in the mounts.

And doing that didn't increase the size of the gap we need to get the front end of the shaft through.

Only way we can see making it work is removing the exhaust/down pipe.

[CryptoHeff]

And can I just say Tony has been amazing through this and we will work something out to make something work!