Spring Maintenance Extravanganza: 50i

[Dan_Q]

Typically, I would have done this maintenance a lot closer to purchasing the car (July '22 w/ 66k miles), and I would have liked to have done it with a lot fewer miles (currently at 74k), but between taking some time to get familiar with the platform, focusing on some cosmetic mods initially, and not enjoying working on my garage floor in the middle of winter, here I am. On the positive side, it's given me time to amass most of what I'll need to complete the work and I'm planning to work on this intermittently over the next few weekends to bang it all out. Hopefully giving my 50i a new lease on life and many trouble-free miles to come in the process. Ideally, I'd recommend doing about half this stuff every 30k miles and rest at 60k, but I am guessing the original owner did little more than following BMW's absurdly long oil change intervals augmented with possibly throwing a new windshield wiper at it once in a while!

Thanks to so many of the forum members here who have contributed their DIY's to aid in ensuring I have the correct tools/parts/knowhow in advance of starting the work. I'll plan to reference them as I go and augment any additional learnings I encounter in the process.

Tasks planned or recently completed:

• Rid wheels of curb rash and refinish them diamond graphite (complete)
• New tires: Conti Extreme Contact DWS 06 (complete)
• Tommy L Garage mudflaps F&R (complete)
• Oil & filter change (complete)
• Oil pan removal and oil pump tensioner adjustment (complete)
• Transmission service (complete)
• Front & Rear Differential service (complete)
• Transfer Case service (complete)
• New plugs and coil packs (complete)
• CCV hose replacement (complete)
• New air filters (complete)
• New cabin air filter (complete)
• New cabin recirculation air filter (complete)
• New serpentine belt
• New wipers (complete)
• Replace door seal trims (complete)
• M50d front bumper grill trim install (complete)
• Brake fluid flush (complete)
• Power steering fluid flush
• Coolant flush

[shimmy23]

nice list of maintenance items! i see you're going with 5w-40 oil. any reason vs sticking with an SAE30?

[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by shimmy23

i see you're going with 5w-40 oil. any reason vs sticking with an SAE30?

After reading about some examples of N63 and S63 engines grenading from rod bearing failures; using 5W-40/doing 5k oil change intervals/and never tuning the engine are the recommended methods of avoiding it.

So, the engine tune is now off my list of future mods, but preventative replacement of the rod bearings is possibly on.

[Edwardsc1]

This is crazy, I bought my 50i in July of '22 with 64k miles and now have 74k miles on it as well. I've done pretty much everything you've listed here so far excluding the belt and brake fluid change.

I just completed the oil pump tensioner adjustment last week and it was definitely a fun little project on top of the normal oil change. Super simple, just a lot of bolts to deal with. Good luck with the rest of it, hopefully you'll have many trouble-free miles ahead!

[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by Edwardsc1

This is crazy, I bought my 50i in July of '22 with 64k miles and now have 74k miles on it as well. I've done pretty much everything you've listed here so far excluding the belt and brake fluid change.

Hahahahahahaa! If you tell me that you're an aerospace engineer, then we may need to evaluate if were separated at birth!

[Edwardsc1]

Hahahaha nope, I'm a banker actually.

[Xolinlevh]

Can you detail the parts and steps to replace the door seals? Mine are starting to wear and ive been meaning to replace them…

[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by Edwardsc1

Hahahaha nope, I'm a banker actually.

Props to a banker who does his own car maintenance. My dad was a banker and always claimed he only owned two tools. A phone book and a telephone. Hahahahaa!

Originally Posted by Xolinlevh

Can you detail the parts and steps to replace the door seals? Mine are starting to wear and ive been meaning to replace them…

Will do. The part numbers for the left and right sides are: 51767318509 and 51767318510

Managed to get some of the simple stuff done along with the oil change, oil pump chain tensioner adjustment and replacing the diff fluids. The oil pump chain tension wasn't in need of adjustment, but I gave it a tiny bit more tension since I was in there and it was ~95% ideal. I was pleasantly surprised by how little debris was in the oil pan and housing for likely never having been off in the life of the car. The chassis stiffening plate and bottom of the oil pan were another story and both were caked with oil from splashes during prior oil changes. The 6 bolts attaching the stiffening plate were way too loose. All six were replaced and torqued/stretched correctly on reinstall. My OCD forced me to give both pans a cleaning and hit them with some steel wool, so they look new when I put them back on.

Front diff fluid (1st pic) was looking old but had minimal debris in it. It was clearly due for replacement. I used just under 1.5 bottles of fluid so should be able to do this again with just a single bottle next time when combined with what I've got left. The rear diff (2nd pic) wasn't much better. It took almost the full 1 liter of fluid. I was worried that I wasn't going to have enough but it just began to spill out as the last of the bottle went in. I used the same tool referenced in the FCP Euro DIY to suck the old fluid out. Worked like a charm.

Link to the oil pump chain tension adjustment DIY: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1847537
Link to the front diff change DIY I referenced: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G65Pc8v8ckY
Link to the rear diff change DIY I referenced: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZitZ_DtPF7c

[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by Xolinlevh

Can you detail the parts and steps to replace the door seals? Mine are starting to wear and I've been meaning to replace them…

This ended up being just a 30 minute task. I'll describe the process just so you know what you're getting into but there isn't a lot of unexpected aspects.

1. The old trim will just peel off. Mine came easily and completely left the strip of adhesive behind.
2. I used a plastic trim tool to scrape off the bulk of the foam of the adhesive strip, leaving behind just the adhesive and a little bit of the foam on the door.
3. I rubbed a microfiber cloth soaked in acetone on the adhesive and with a little bit of elbow grease it came right up.
4. Now without removing the backing from the new adhesive strip, wrangle the upper edge of the trim both behind the upper door gasket and over the top edge of the door. The first pic shows the profile of this part, and you can see the hook where it goes over the upper edge of the door.
5. Now peel back ~6"-8" sections of the backing and press the new trim in place. Work your way towards the bottom and just ensure it's properly positioned before you press it on. The adhesive is very sticky and won't want to break loose once pressed down.
6. After making your way to the bottom of the door you can fold back the gasket on the trim and press directly on the rigid plastic portion that's now adhered to the door. If you can sit the car in the sun to get it warmed up when doing this, it probably sticks best.

I wouldn't bother trying this unless it's somewhat warm out. I doubt the adhesive will work as well if either the door or the adhesive is cold. It's an incredibly easy job and you can knock it out in no time.

[skoold2003]

I would suggest doing the t case next. It seems like that’s the most common service item to show symptoms. I may be biased though, because I had symptoms before I changed the oil and reset.

[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by skoold2003

I would suggest doing the t case next. It seems like that’s the most common service item to show symptoms. I may be biased though, because I had symptoms before I changed the oil and reset.

I need to do a little research to find a tool that I can do the VTG calibration reset with as well as measure the transmission fluid temp. I'll do those two services at the same time. I know there is a Foxwell 530 tool referenced in this transfer case DIY but not sure yet if it can also monitor transmission fluid temp.

I'll figure out what I need and get it on order this week. Probably do the plugs, coil packs and CCV hose replacement next weekend. T-case and trans the following. Weather is getting nice out and I'm unwilling to spend more than about a half day per weekend on the car.

[skoold2003]

Originally Posted by Dan_Q

I need to do a little research to find a tool that I can do the VTG calibration reset with as well as measure the transmission fluid temp. I'll do those two services at the same time. I know there is a Foxwell 530 tool referenced in this transfer case DIY but not sure yet if it can also monitor transmission fluid temp.

I'll figure out what I need and get it on order this week. Probably do the plugs, coil packs and CCV hose replacement next weekend. T-case and trans the following. Weather is getting nice out and I'm unwilling to spend more than about a half day per weekend on the car.

If you want a free option, get ISTA. The Foxwell would be less headache though I’m sure.

[Chilled]

You call that maintenance and your not even replacing the engine, gearbox and the chassis. kids these days.



For the VTG, as mentioned above, ISTA would be the cheapest and usability wise, the easiest.

ISTA would also cover the trans temp (I would be surprised if the NT530 didn't tho).

If you already have a wifi/enet+usbc I would recommend going ISTA/Bimmerlink(BMLink pref on how easy it is to use) route. It's allot easier to be able to just lay/chill next to car and monitor on your phone/laptop wirelessly.
From memory(not near car to check) the free Torque app can pickup the trans temp.

Also for the trans oil change, get yourself a welders blanket that you can wrap around the exhaust. Makes the 2nd fill allot easier whilst your laying there by not having the hot exhaust in your face, plus you don't have to worry about accidentally touching it.

[tlow98]

Foxwell 530 vote here. I did this almost two years ago, but I’m quite sure I used it for the trans temp. I’ve used it for most everything. Carly also does trans temp and is easy, fast, cheap.

Nice work this far! Similar to my path :-)

[zero2sixtyZ]

Solid list. Did most of the same in the past year as well. Would suggest adding the recirculation filter if you're doing the cabin filters: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1536866

I might have to get a set of those mudflaps. Also, great spec F80.

[sukhk527]

Love to see a well cared for F15. For VTG calibration, if you have an Android tablet handy , ProTool by BimmerGeeks is great to have in the arsenal.

[Dan_Q]

Swapped out the CCV hoses but it turns out I'm not sure that was needed. I'm guessing that they may have already been done under warranty by the previous owner because they looked to be in pretty good shape.

Virtually all of them broke somewhere in the process of removal. The plastic was brittle but took a bit of hard manipulation to break. As others have mentioned, you need to rotate the connections that bolt to the engine about 30° in order to pull them from the heads. In order to gain enough clearance to do that, I had to unbolt the wiring loom that goes over the top of the engine so that could be raised a bit.

The most eventful part of the process was coming to the realization that I couldn't locate my thin walled spark plug socket so I couldn't do my plugs and coils at the same time. Hopefully amazon will come through today and I'll get that done.

These are the two DIY's I referenced for replacement:
DIY #1
DIY #2

[Dan_Q]

Finally took the time to install the M50d lower grill trims I bought about 6 months ago. Very happy with the improved look of the front end. I think I desperately need a suspension drop though. Gonna be adding that to the to-do list. Hahaha

[Dan_Q]

Plugs & coils were a piece of cake. Multiple DIYs exist but it is straightforward to just go at them. This tool from Burger Motorsports makes gapping the new plugs a breeze.
Old plugs were looking their age.

[Dan_Q]

Transfer case servicing followed this DIY. It is kind of a PITA to remove the fluid but I managed to get out ~650 ml. The old fluid looked far from new. I ended up getting the Foxwell to reset the VTG servicing since I have a recurring Cruise Control Malfunction warning that I needed to investigate anyway. VTG seemed to reset with no trouble.

[Dan_Q]

I changed the transmission fluid using this guide from FCP Euro. I ordered the fluid and filter kit from them as well. Everything went to plan and I was left with a little over 2 quarts of new transmission fluid left from the 7 quarts delivered. I wrapped the exhaust with a small welding blanket. The Foxwell was able to read the transmission fluid temperature and had a transmission servicing program that led you through the process. I alternated adding fluid and shifting through the gears until the fluid was at temp and draining out, then installed a new fill plug. No hiccups encountered.

[Dan_Q]

Brake fluid flushes performed on the X5 and my F80 at the same time, with the F80 getting new low dust pads as well. The 666M wheels + OEM pads are a cleaning PITA, so hopefully the Akebono pads fare better.

The stack of fluids and maintenance materials in my basement is finally dwindling. Motivation is also dwindling fast!