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      01-31-2023, 06:45 PM   #1
sfreedom97
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What would you do? 2015 50i 92k miles… stay or go?

Would love some opinions/insight on what to do with my 2015 X5 xdrive50i....

Purchased in Nov 2017 as a CPO with about 20k miles for $55k (orig MSRP $81,500). Vehicle has 92,700 miles now (mostly highway).

Vehicle was the GM of the dealership's, so I would assume it was taken care of during its first 20k miles. I've maintained it via only going to the dealership since.

Here are the minor/major repairs worth noting made during my ownership (mostly covered by the CPO and extended warranty):

found an oil leak - oil drain crush ring was replaced - 81k miles
idrive controller replaced - 74k miles
replaced driver's side side mirror (wouldn't fold) - 40k miles
replaced both tailgate drives - 74k miles
replaced upper oil pan gasket - 74k miles
replaced rear main seal - 74k miles
replaced upper hoses in engine bay - 59k miles
replaced crankcase breather hoses - 59k miles
replaced spark plugs - 40k miles
replaced sunroof seal (cleaned drain plugs) - 92k miles

This is all outside of normal wear items and routine maintenance which I have followed diligently (4 new brakes, broken windshields, filters, etc).

what's needed to take care of:
spark plugs (52k miles since last replacement - needed?) -- quoted $419
thrust rod bushings have wear (but haven't separated or leaked yet June 2022) - quoted $745
*** oil pump and drive chain -- found on another thread that this should be changed if more than 5-6mm of play found as a prevention? Thoughts? This is new to me and no tech has brought this up.... supposedly a must for xdrive50i's with >80k miles ***

Vehicle is consuming more oil recently. As it stands, I have approx 2000 miles since my last oil change and the gauge on the car's computer is sitting at the last "green marker" before it hits yellow telling me to add more oil. I'm estimating it'll hit yellow before 3000 miles.

My question to this group: I'm not changing the engine with the class action stipend as the mileage I have is too high for me to fork over the remaining balance per the mileage/reimbursement chart.

I owe on the vehicle about what it's worth per KBB.

Would you keep this vehicle or get out of it due to the potential issues heading my (our - for those in my shoes) way? Part of me would like to keep it due to so much repair work done, but I'm petrified this engine's oil consumption will become just too much...... Will it level out at some point (maybe where it is now) so that every 3k miles or so we just add oil?

I understand this is a loaded question..... That's why I'm sending out to the group for differing opinions so it helps me land on one.

Thanks so much!!!
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      01-31-2023, 07:32 PM   #2
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what issues do you foresee? The drive chain can easily be tightened and should have been inspected about 30k miles ago. Its a very common issue to address.

The BMW V8s have always burned oil and they've always gotten a tad worse over time.

loaded question for sure since only you know your situation. if it were me, i'd keep it a few more years. at 92k miles, i'd suspect it isn't worth enough to sell at the moment?
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      01-31-2023, 07:57 PM   #3
sfreedom97
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Originally Posted by shimmy23 View Post
what issues do you foresee? The drive chain can easily be tightened and should have been inspected about 30k miles ago. Its a very common issue to address.

The BMW V8s have always burned oil and they've always gotten a tad worse over time.

loaded question for sure since only you know your situation. if it were me, i'd keep it a few more years. at 92k miles, i'd suspect it isn't worth enough to sell at the moment?
I appreciate the opinion!

The biggest issue I am afraid of is the engine’s oil consumption. Is there a point where this N63TU “bottoms out” on oil consumption? Let’s say the vehicles computer alerts me that I need to add 2 quarts every 2000 miles. Is that as bad as it gets? Or will it get even worse?

What other common major issues are there (if any)? The issues I foresee are the ones I listed. Nothing crazy….

Transmission shifts super smooth. I do not have a heavy foot and never have…. I think I probably should have had more fun with it. Ha!

The vehicle is worth about what I owe so walking away now pretty much nets me at zero. Not great. Not horrible…. considering this is a 8-9 year old German SUV.

I would just hate being in a position with this N63TU engine where it needs something major done to it.

Love the car… have put so much TLC into it, but realize it’s a BMW. All good things must come to an end eventually.
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      01-31-2023, 08:40 PM   #4
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Yeah, as a DIY’r this all looks like nothing. If I had to pay for someone else to do it I wouldn’t have bought the v8, but hey, here you are. And I think I’d have been wrong, bc it doesn’t seem like many things have been v8-related charges for you.

I’d prolly pay to have the suspension, spark plugs, and transfer case fluid changed (have you already done that?) done by taking it to a knowledgeable non dealer and that should net you a few years.

The oil burning issue can get worse, but really what the harm? So you have to add a couple quarts a couple times a year… no big deal. It’s like an extra $50 a year?

These engines even at their worst do not leave trails of smoke in their wakes. The only person that knows about it is you and as long as you don’t ignore it, it will never present a real problem.

Last edited by tlow98; 01-31-2023 at 10:04 PM..
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      01-31-2023, 10:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Yeah, as a DIY’r this all looks like nothing. If I had to pay for someone else to do it I wouldn’t have bought the v8, but hey, here you are. And I think I’d have been wrong, bc it doesn’t seem like many things have been v8-related charges for you.

I’d prolly pay to have the suspension, spark plugs, and transfer case fluid changed (have you already done that?) done by taking it to a knowledgeable non dealer and that should net you a few years.

The oil burning issue can get worse, but really what the harm? So you have to add a couple quarts a couple times a year… no big deal. It’s like an extra $50 a year?

These engines even at their worst do not leave trails of smoke in their wakes. The only person that knows about it is you and as long as you don’t ignore it, it will never present a real problem.

I thought I was slick by getting the N63TU back in 2017 thinking the N63 problems were all solved. Little did I know!

I appreciate the feedback. You’re right, I haven’t gotten hit hard in the wallet with the repairs done considering thanks to the CPO and extension of the warranty by another year afterwards. Not a DIY’r…

Spark plugs were done at around 40k miles. Guess it’s time for another round but I’m not experiencing anything that would tell me I need to. Regardless, probably will get them done if I keep her.

I have not changed the transfer case or suspension fluid (assuming that’s what you meant by suspension?)…

I do hear some faint “creaking” when making tight turns and when I turn up and down steeper hills. Fairly certain that’s the front thrust rod bushings I’m hearing?

As for the oil consumption, I don’t care if it needs oil like you said, but I was afraid the engine itself would inevitably fail sooner due to it? Maybe I was wrong to assume this….
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      01-31-2023, 10:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfreedom97 View Post
I thought I was slick by getting the N63TU back in 2017 thinking the N63 problems were all solved. Little did I know!

I appreciate the feedback. You’re right, I haven’t gotten hit hard in the wallet with the repairs done considering thanks to the CPO and extension of the warranty by another year afterwards. Not a DIY’r…

Spark plugs were done at around 40k miles. Guess it’s time for another round but I’m not experiencing anything that would tell me I need to. Regardless, probably will get them done if I keep her.

I have not changed the transfer case or suspension fluid (assuming that’s what you meant by suspension?)…

I do hear some faint “creaking” when making tight turns and when I turn up and down steeper hills. Fairly certain that’s the front thrust rod bushings I’m hearing?

As for the oil consumption, I don’t care if it needs oil like you said, but I was afraid the engine itself would inevitably fail sooner due to it? Maybe I was wrong to assume this….

Yep, totally understand. And yes, the creaking suspension is your thrust arms. Swap those out. It could also be the only other lower control arm up front, but the mechanic will know.

Was referring to the transfer case oil, as it only holds a small amount and is easy/cheap to change and is somewhat common to have issues with after 100k if it’s never been changed.

The v8 spark plugs have a short interval. Is what it is.

I don’t think the v8 oil consumption leads to failure unless you let it run low. No issues otherwise.
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      01-31-2023, 11:41 PM   #7
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You are getting close to 100k, so I highly recommend you replace all the injectors...
Or you risk having one go bad, flood the cylinder with gas which cleans out the oil, with the result being a scored cylinder, and need of replacement engine...
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      02-01-2023, 02:16 AM   #8
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I think tlow98 has convinced you, but if all your main worry is oil consumption leading to a big/premature failure I think it should be fine. Our 2001 e39 wagon (6cyl) has burned a quart every 1k for at least the past 105k miles...and it's at 262k at the moment. Oh an it's been run egregiously low on oil countless times, it's taken 4 quarts to fill it up to the top line at least once. The damn thing doesn't have an oil level warning and was a workhorse that saw 30k-mile years when it was driven regularly.
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My wife would give me so much head if I did that.
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      02-01-2023, 02:54 AM   #9
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Don't forget rod bearings and valve seals and stems. For vavle side you should be covered by that settlement if it starts burning too much oil, BMW will cover cost.
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      02-01-2023, 05:47 AM   #10
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Upgrade oil brand. Liqui molly Leichtlauf High Tech 5w-40 burns less in my experience. Also try Mos2 it will protect it further. Castrol burns the quickest in my use.
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      02-01-2023, 06:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1norseman View Post
You are getting close to 100k, so I highly recommend you replace all the injectors...
Or you risk having one go bad, flood the cylinder with gas which cleans out the oil, with the result being a scored cylinder, and need of replacement engine...
May I ask what replacing all the injectors would cost at an independent shop? Ballpark of course….
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      02-01-2023, 08:05 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by sfreedom97 View Post
May I ask what replacing all the injectors would cost at an independent shop? Ballpark of course….
A lot less than a new engine, is all I know.
Bosch (No BMW logos etc) injectors runs around $100+/ea, so around $800-900 for all 8.
BMW branded runs about $350+/ea, so about $2800-2900
Add 2-3 hours of labor to that, I'm guessing.

Why such a big difference in price, between the Bosch branded and the BMW branded, I don't know. Maybe someone else can chime in about that...
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      02-01-2023, 10:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfreedom97 View Post
Would love some opinions/insight on what to do with my 2015 X5 xdrive50i....

Purchased in Nov 2017 as a CPO with about 20k miles for $55k (orig MSRP $81,500). Vehicle has 92,700 miles now (mostly highway).

Vehicle was the GM of the dealership's, so I would assume it was taken care of during its first 20k miles. I've maintained it via only going to the dealership since.

Here are the minor/major repairs worth noting made during my ownership (mostly covered by the CPO and extended warranty):

found an oil leak - oil drain crush ring was replaced - 81k miles
idrive controller replaced - 74k miles
replaced driver's side side mirror (wouldn't fold) - 40k miles
replaced both tailgate drives - 74k miles
replaced upper oil pan gasket - 74k miles
replaced rear main seal - 74k miles
replaced upper hoses in engine bay - 59k miles
replaced crankcase breather hoses - 59k miles
replaced spark plugs - 40k miles
replaced sunroof seal (cleaned drain plugs) - 92k miles

This is all outside of normal wear items and routine maintenance which I have followed diligently (4 new brakes, broken windshields, filters, etc).

what's needed to take care of:
spark plugs (52k miles since last replacement - needed?) — quoted $419
thrust rod bushings have wear (but haven't separated or leaked yet June 2022) - quoted $745
*** oil pump and drive chain — found on another thread that this should be changed if more than 5-6mm of play found as a prevention? Thoughts? This is new to me and no tech has brought this up.... supposedly a must for xdrive50i's with >80k miles [...]
Your going to needs to service if not get a new transfer case they fail at 100k, upper and lower oil pan gasket , turbo coolant lines fail, turbos might fail depending how often you changed the oil , front suspension needs change, o2 sensors will soon be changed spark plugs, fuel pump replacement
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      02-01-2023, 11:54 AM   #14
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How often should an N63TU's oil be changed once it approaches 100k miles?

Every 5000 too far of an interval?
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      02-01-2023, 02:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfreedom97 View Post
How often should an N63TU's oil be changed once it approaches 100k miles?

Every 5000 too far of an interval?
Every 3000-5000K is good ball park figure. Also depends on oil quality, Brand, weight. Also depends on if your using an LL01 approved oil or non approved.
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      02-01-2023, 02:17 PM   #16
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Mine once i hit 93K Odo and thats a 35I. I Had to dump a little over $13K in maintenance in 2022. Now It's good to go for another 100K+ easily. You should at least get quote from dealer for n63tu engine replacement under extended program you can get them to goodwill a good portion if you tell corporate your a loyal customer. I tried it out and they gave me a hefty discount on a repair quote. I just told them i am loyal and i just bought a bmw m8. I ended not getting it done from them i just wanted to try to see how they respond.
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Last edited by F15_SGM; 02-01-2023 at 02:24 PM..
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      02-01-2023, 10:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osmansiddiqui95 View Post
Mine once i hit 93K Odo and thats a 35I. I Had to dump a little over $13K in maintenance in 2022. Now It's good to go for another 100K+ easily. You should at least get quote from dealer for n63tu engine replacement under extended program you can get them to goodwill a good portion if you tell corporate your a loyal customer. I tried it out and they gave me a hefty discount on a repair quote. I just told them i am loyal and i just bought a bmw m8. I ended not getting it done from them i just wanted to try to see how they respond.
What did that $13k entail, pray tell?
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      02-02-2023, 09:52 AM   #18
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This is my 5th Bimmer, ive worked on all of them. a 15 X50i with 98k on it. I just bought it in Nov. Love the car, im sure something will come up on it. But so far it's been fine except for a minor VC leak, known when I bought it.
The worst was my 540i, TC guides went... that took me 4 days to fix.
I guess it depends on your tolerance for things breaking and getting repaired. I plan to keep this one awhile though...
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      02-02-2023, 06:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
What did that $13k entail, pray tell?
Ive gotten all leaks and maintenance done with OEM parts. Valve cover and gasket, Oil Pan Gasket and Bolts, Vacuum Hose Replaced, OFHG was done prior and Water Pump, Rear Main seal replaced but was not leaking but did it anyways, Trans Pan and fluid, Transfer case drain plug and Fluid Changed And Recalibrated, New Transmission Installed, Bosch Spark Plugs, Drain Plug Gasket and Retap to Honda M14-1.5, Brake Pads, Both Batteries, Serpentine Belt, CV Axel Boots, Oil level sensor gasket, Air suspension Bags and Compressor Serviced, Only leak left is the Washer fluid pump but i don't plan on getting it done i just keep it empty. It's too much labor for a simple washer fluid. Also got most parts from FCP Euro for life time warranty. Ive Been Using 5W-40 Liqui Molly Leichtlauf High Tech Oil and MOs2 Additive. Still Need to get my alignment done. These N55s are maintenance heavy as mileage Increases. They require good oil, good quality gas and good tires. My F15 is Tuned on BM3 Stage 1 91 Oct. Heads-up Labor and Parts was not cheap to get all of this done. Also Be very careful with OFHG as Priming is mandatory and failure to do this can lead to killing the engine soon after. I got all of this done at 93K Odo. Currently at 112K Odo. I'd say all these replaced will be once again required after another 100K. Dealership is the worst and An indy is the best.
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      02-02-2023, 07:11 PM   #20
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Definitely change the transfer case fluid. Transmission fluid would be a good idea too. Differential fluids stay pretty clean. At least check the level of those.

I guess you have to figure, if doing a repair here and there, is better than paying for a new ride.
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      02-02-2023, 07:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osmansiddiqui95 View Post
Ive gotten all leaks and maintenance done with OEM parts. Valve cover and gasket, Oil Pan Gasket and Bolts, Vacuum Hose Replaced, OFHG was done prior and Water Pump, Rear Main seal replaced but was not leaking but did it anyways, Trans Pan and fluid, Transfer case drain plug and Fluid Changed And Recalibrated, New Transmission Installed, Bosch Spark Plugs, Drain Plug Gasket and Retap to Honda M14-1.5, Brake Pads, Both Batteries, Serpentine Belt, CV Axel Boots, Oil level sensor gasket, Air suspension Bags and Compressor Serviced, Only leak left is the Washer fluid pump but i don't plan on getting it done i just keep it empty. It's too much labor for a simple washer fluid. Also got most parts from FCP Euro for life time warranty. Ive Been Using 5W-40 Liqui Molly Leichtlauf High Tech Oil and MOs2 Additive. Still Need to get my alignment done. These N55s are maintenance heavy as mileage Increases. They require good oil, good quality gas and good tires. My F15 is Tuned on BM3 Stage 1 91 Oct. Heads-up Labor and Parts was not cheap to get all of this done. Also Be very careful with OFHG as Priming is mandatory and failure to do this can lead to killing the engine soon after. I got all of this done at 93K Odo. Currently at 112K Odo. I'd say all these replaced will be once again required after another 100K. Dealership is the worst and An indy is the best.
Im actually shocked you got all of that done for that *little* money, including a new transmission. Bravo! I’ve put $7k into mine in 25k miles (70-95k) but that includes maintenance and repairs. All new shocks, tires, air bags, valve cover, all fluids, and some small upgrades blah blah. Hoping it’ll hold together another 25k with little to do.

BUT I do get cold start stumbles… so I might be on my way to new injectors.

Cheers gents!
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      02-02-2023, 07:23 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Im actually shocked you got all of that done for that *little* money, including a new transmission. Bravo! I’ve put $7k into mine in 25k miles (70-95k) but that includes maintenance and repairs. All new shocks, tires, air bags, valve cover, all fluids, and some small upgrades blah blah. Hoping it’ll hold together another 25k with little to do.

BUT I do get cold start stumbles… so I might be on my way to new injectors.

Cheers gents!
Well it's not exactly $13K. I didn't include tires and I didn't price in the new transmission I stopped counting so I don't feel like I wasted money. But I really think it's a money pit even at that price. I was in too deep to backout lol. But now it's like brand-new. Drives like it has only 12K on it
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