Something Every X5M owner should check every 80-100k miles.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by pachieh

Update… $781 for labor and a recommendation to replace the chain since they are in there already.

Isn't the chain crank driven? How does he plan on removing it and putting on a new one without removing the crank/engine.

*EDIT* and not to be picky, but considering the job only adds about 15-30min, 1 hour max(inc. a 30+min break) to an usual oil job. $800 for 1hr-1.5hrs labor only seems a bit excessive.

[pachieh]

I agree that it is excess.

No idea on the chain being crank driven and it’s full removal though.

[SCar24]

Would it be recommended to change the oil pump as well?
If I am to open up the sump and tension/replace the chain, maybe go all the way and replace the pump as well? I do work like this myself, so there would only be the cost of parts to take into account.

I see in ISTA that there are a few specialist tools required to replace oil pump though, so not sure whether this is worth while or even necessary? Couldn't find any details on replacing the chain there yet though, so am a bit curious on how to manage that if it is crank driven.

Mine is a 2018 X6M, production date 12/2017

[shimmy23]

Originally Posted by pachieh

I agree that it is excess.

No idea on the chain being crank driven and it’s full removal though.

is there a need to replace the chain? say you do that... you'll be back in there again in 50k miles adjust the slack... again.

[pachieh]

Originally Posted by shimmy23

is there a need to replace the chain? say you do that... you'll be back in there again in 50k miles adjust the slack... again.

No, I don’t think there is. But you can’t know until you get in there. The initial quote for replacing the chain wasn’t requested, just something the shop recommended since they were in there.

Car is driving fine, I can’t hear anything out of the ordinary.

Gonna hot up the dealership who does the majority of my work and see what they’ll charge.

[///Motivated]

Couple of notes from my attempt. I put a regular Allen wrench into the adjustment hole and marked the depth when it bottomed. Then I checked against my standard depth Allen sockets (snap-on) and the depth was exactly the same. The socket does bottom on the pump
housing, but there wasn’t more penetration available with an extended length socket.

The other thing was that my adjuster was crazy hard to break loose. I probably wasted an hour trying different things. Then just got mad and bowed up on it and it broke free.

56k and had some slop but not as bad as OP.

[Mandinca]

Can you get to the rod bearings this way ? How much more do you need to take off to change them ?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Mandinca

Can you get to the rod bearings this way ? How much more do you need to take off to change them ?

No, the subframe needs to be dropped for get the upper pan out.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Chilled

No, the subframe needs to be dropped for get the upper pan out.

Massive undertaking or mostly support the motor from above, undo the mounts, rack and lower the frame ?
I removed the pan on my E88 and it was a pain on stands...but not impossible.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Mandinca

Massive undertaking or mostly support the motor from above, undo the mounts, rack and lower the frame ?
I removed the pan on my E88 and it was a pain on stands...but not impossible.

More on the larger side.

For support from above, keep in mind that the structural frame is not on the fenders so you brace has to be adjustable.

You will need to remove the front diff/drive shafts.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Chilled

More on the larger side.

For support from above, keep in mind that the structural frame is not on the fenders so you brace has to be adjustable.

You will need to remove the front diff/drive shafts.

Yeah, that sounds a bit too much to do on jacks...possible,...but I'm not 35 anymore.

[bmwx5er]

I’m looking to do this soon on my 17 F85 with 60k miles. I came across this video, to add to the wealth of material in this thread already. https://youtu.be/3v7ChO9MDhk

[Upurock]

Mine was done today. 45k miles and it is already loose. Not extreme, but still, something I would not want to see.

https://youtube.com/shorts/hxCI_Z7Qf...5mChvKrmK2sL_0

[bmwx5er]

Did mine yesterday. 60k miles with chain slop, but not as much as the OP, and I tightened it. Thanks to everyone who contributed!

Some notes:

1. The long reach 8mm to tighten the chain tension didn’t work for me. I used a regular one with a long 3/8 extension.
2. The torque specs for oil pan bolts in F85s were slightly different from what the OP used in his E70 (per newtis) - they are a straight 27Nm. The tightening sequence does not have to be criss-cross either, you can do it in a sequence.
3. The zip tie method to hold the gasket in place was pure genius!

I followed this up with a front differential oil change. Unlike the F15 video from fcpeuro, the F85s have a metal coolant pipe running across, limiting access to the fill plug. Turned out to be a massive PITA to remove the fill plug (dropped the low profile 14mm socket into the surrounding plastic shrouds twice). I later figured out removing a couple of bolts of the plastic shroud behind the front wheel provided much easier and direct access to the fill plug using a long socket extension. I was able to torque the plug to spec as well.

[GotV8?]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Let us know what you find. I'm at 32K and kind of want to do it out of boredom.

Sorry for late post...been busy with work and family life... forgot to update everyone...I finally got a chance to follow OPs instructions and had a chance to do my 50k oil change with a help of my friend... we accomplished everything with the use of 4 ramps and jack stands..... everything was straight forward...after we got everything off...I did have some slack on my chain ... I had my friend slowly tighten the chain while I was was feeling the tension with my hands...we both worked together to get it to where there was no longer any slack and he was able to do almost a 360 degree turn on the ratchet "we decided to measure the full rotation of the ratchet itself with the handle facing the front of the car...while he was turning and tighting it slowly at 15 degree intervals...I was wiggling and feeling the slack of the chain: with the front of the car being 12 O'clock we got to 11:50" which there was zero slack and a tight feel: if you were to think about a face of a clock. Super glad we took care of this....will definitely recheck this again when I hit 100k miles... IMO... will do it every 50k interval for the peace of mind as a preventative for myself. It wasn't really that difficult...just another maintenance to add to the list.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by Chilled

As much as I love bashing the dealer for their joke pricing. That parts price list seems a little off do to by the book.

Looking closer to $250 retails for the parts, so with that $150 labour. You are still been bent over, but at least they are giving you some hope in giving you a pillow to bite down on.

I thought the stealerships charge $250 an hour labor now......(from COVID inflation increase)

[Chilled]

Was bored, the X needed an oil change, so decided to check on the pump chain.

This is at 58KM(36K Mile).

View post on imgur.com

[Donniedarko]

Sub’d thanks for this share. : )

[I Luv BMW]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Was bored, the X needed an oil change, so decided to check on the pump chain.

This is at 58KM(36K Mile).

View post on imgur.com

Serious question - so is this considered too loose or within spec?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Serious question - so is this considered too loose or within spec?

Past the 5mm out of spec. Not as bad as the other guys that are slapping the block with the chain.

[CryptoHeff]

Just checked mine at 80k KMs and it was pretty loose. I would say 10mm total on each side - so looser than I had expected.