08-10-2014, 10:19 PM | #1 |
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DIY: F15 X5 Aluminum Running Board install
INTRODUCTION
The Canadian-spec 2014 xLine did not come pre-installed with running boards. I performed thorough research and the installation is similar to the E70 X5 install (if you need additional pictures of the install, search in Google). Installation is easy, about 2 hours of commitment with the right tools, something similar to this Auto Panel Removal Tool from amazon will help a lot. I used different sizes of a flathead screwdrivers and a quality Torx T25 Bit. The most challenging part was removing the front tabs. The Retrofit Kit will fit all F15 X5 models. BENEFITS: In the 3 years of ownership, the aluminum running board has assisted me in: Rock chips and paint scratches around the fender and rocker panels. Disembarking. Cleaning the roofline and panoramic sunroof. Aesthetically pleasing to look at. CONS: I disembark by stepping into the board, then to the floor. If you disembark and step onto the floor directly, your pants may receive dirt from the boards. INSTALL: The Kit will provide you with all the hardware bolts and tabs, except for the plastic rivet tabs that attaches it to the fender trim. You will need 4 replacement rivet tabs which can be purchased at either BMW or your local auto parts supply store. PART NUMBER 51 95 2 357 132 Retrofit Kit, Aluminum BMW ETK 51_9442 Trim, sill / wheel arch footboard TOOLS REQUIRED -OEM plastic rivet tabs or 4 generic equivalent tabs from your local auto parts supply store -Small mallet, or hammer -T25 Torx bit -Tiny or small flat head screwdriver -Regular sized screwdriver, or trim remover to pry off the old plastic rivets -8 mm socket wrench -15 mm socket wrench -painters tape or electrical tape to protect fender paint 1. The OEM Box fits inside the X5. IMG_6441copy.JPG 2. The aluminum board is held on by 5 T25 Torx bolts to the cover sill, also ensure you install the foam piece included in the package before installing the aluminum piece of the kit. IMG_6442copy.JPG 3. Front: Use a small screwdriver to punch the middle piece of the tab inward. This action pushes and separates the rivet from the head. I cannot find this image 4. Rear: This is the fender well trim plastic rivet tab, repeat procedure #3 to remove it. IMG_6450copy.jpg 5. Old support piece, it can support some weight as this support piece is the same design and material as the new support piece, just shorter IMG_6449copy.JPG 6. Aluminum piece bolted to the cover, ready to install. IMG_6445copy.JPG 7. Comparison of the old and new support piece. IMG_6457copy.JPG 8. When you remove the cover sill, remember to carefully remove the sensor by lifting the tab above it. IMG_6452copy.JPG 9. Birds-eye view of the cover sill. The first tab snaps to to the fender well trim, which can easily be pulled out. The next two tabs are the most challenging tabs that attaches to the front fender and body. You must remove the bottom bolt right beside the front towing plate to gain access from underneath. I attempted to push these tabs out from the underneath the vehicle to no avail. The most effective way of breaking these tabs free is to carefully insert a small screwdriver or a nylon auto panel trim removal noted in the Introduction in between the fender and the skirt and carefully (sometimes blindly) pushing the tabs downward. You will need to cover your bottom fender with painters tape to protect it from damage, or alternatively you can cover your screwdriver with an electrical tape. Another way is to pry and pull the bottom cover sill towards you and unclip the first clip close to the fender from underneath using a probe or hook tool. You will need to place the vehicle on a small ramp to squeeze your body under to see the clip. Do not remove the two 10mm bolts that holds the plastic fender on the body as it makes the job harder. IMG_6453copy.JPG 10. Shameless plug of the DIY 3M film I installed to protect the rocker panel and bottom rear door from debris. Purchased from invinciblegraphic from eBay. You will need 6" x 144" to cover all 4 doors IMG_6454copy.JPG 11. Shown on the left is the front side of the old cover, the right is the rear of the new skirt cover, make sure you remove the old white plastic tab from the body of the vehicle, and install the new tab on the new cover IMG_6462copy.JPG 12. Here is the right side installed, coated with Menzerna Powerlock and Einszett Glanz Wax, best combo for Black Sapphire Metallic IMG_6467copy.JPG OTHER NOTES/PICS Plastic tabs, if you can find a shorter tab similar to the OEM, it will be better. Left is the old, right the replacement IMG_6473.JPG It is always good to protect the bottom of the door using the a piece of foam packaging during the install to prevent the aluminum board from rubbing under the door IMG_6466copy.JPG Left support piece, rear IMG_6461copy.JPG Sensor, lift the tab above to remove IMG_6460copy.JPG Remove this piece just behind the rear of the cover sill IMG_6451copy.JPG The bolts that holds the support piece has a rubber washer for weather seal. Make sure remove the old rubber washer which may be glued to the body before installing the new bolts IMG_6459copy.JPG Old support piece with door closed, 3M on the rocker panel IMG_6456copy.JPG Left side installed, notice that 1/2 of the footboard is hidden with doors closed IMG_6469copy.JPG Good luck! Last edited by originalgoods13; 03-08-2018 at 02:55 PM.. |
08-11-2014, 11:51 AM | #4 |
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08-11-2014, 10:21 PM | #6 |
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Awesome job, thanks for sharing. Perhaps a silly question but since xLine comes with steps pre-configured and you would actually have to apply Delete when ordering, what made you get the xLine without them? Was it off the lot?
Also, if you have the "Before" pictures, I would love to see how your F15 looked before. |
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08-13-2014, 11:51 PM | #7 | |
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In a Canadian build for xLine, running boards are not pre-configured and is an $800 package (and I also bought mine off the lot) |
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08-13-2014, 11:57 PM | #8 |
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That's a beauty. I am also considering black, is that matte or metallic?
In USA, I believe we get them added on for $400 and removing them gives us $400 back. I actually like the xLine without them (as you have it pictured above) and luxury line with them. May I ask if the part you removed, was it all plastic, that silver looking piece? |
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08-14-2014, 03:03 PM | #9 | |
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The trim is brushed aluminum same material as the front lower bumper trim and rear trim. One thing though as they do oxidize and stain during winter with salt on the roads here, just have to wash often. |
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08-14-2014, 03:30 PM | #10 | |
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That's going to suck, my step boards already got a lot of brown stains even though I hosed them regularly, and this was one of the reasons why I wanted to avoid them on my next X5, but if it is same material, I guess same thing might happen since I live in north east. However, chances of it getting stained will be lower compared to boards since salt water should not get a chance to stand on side trims. |
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08-14-2014, 07:29 PM | #11 |
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Nicely done, conversion.
I use Autosol Metal Polish to clean the carbon build up on the tail pipes to remove the carbon build up and used once on the aluminium side boards. The metal polish is for sale in the Welt gift store, in its original packaging. Does not leave white residue powder on black trim or rubber. Soon I will order the aluminum polish and protective oil, and try them out. http://www.autosol.com/ProductDetail...oductCode=1824 |
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08-30-2014, 11:29 PM | #12 |
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Interesting fact, when you remove the running boards from F15 xLine, it does not credit $400 back, it just keeps the same price and removes the running boards with chrome accents. This is weird.
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08-31-2014, 12:31 PM | #13 |
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08-31-2014, 01:39 PM | #14 |
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Still the same, I tried it when they had '14, and now with '15 it still is $59,500 with or without running boards. So removing them, while visually makes a difference, makes no difference to pricing, I guess it's because they still have to pay for the replacement part. |
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08-31-2014, 04:43 PM | #15 |
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I think I need running boards for mine. I am getting wear marks where the back of my leg rubs below the door jam when getting in and out of the car, it looks shitty. The passenger side is not quite as bad, but is wearing. Has anyone else seen this?
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09-02-2014, 08:55 AM | #16 |
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OG13, I think I'm going to go ahead and retrofit mine. I typed that part no. you listed above on getbmwparts and nothing came up. Is that the right part no for the retrofit kit?
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09-02-2014, 01:46 PM | #17 | |
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Yes it is, i attached the invoice, for your reference. |
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09-02-2014, 01:56 PM | #18 | |
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09-02-2014, 08:59 PM | #21 |
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Actually, you can, it just will looks weird IMO.
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